S V6 Won't Fire, No Spark

S V6 Won't Fire, No Spark

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The Beaver King

Original Poster:

6,095 posts

196 months

Saturday 7th January 2017
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Hi folks,

Quick question and I'm probably being an idiot; does anybody know the wiring arrangement for the coil? Had her running a month or so back, but had to replace the exhaust manifold. Since it's been done, she won't fire. Turns over fine, but no sign of a spark.

Inspected the coil, which has seen better days and ordered a replacement. New one has turned up and been fitted but still won't fire.

Wiring diagram shows YB to +ve and green off - ve, which is what I've done. I also have a extra red wire, which I assume is for the immobiliser (?).

Still won't fire; voltmeter shows nothing across any of the connections of the battery...

All very weird. Any suggestions? I'm starting to think the coil wasn't the culprit....



The Beaver King

Original Poster:

6,095 posts

196 months

Sunday 8th January 2017
quotequote all
Gents,

Thanks for the comments, will give it another crack on Wednesday.

Just to clarify some bits:

1. I did notice the dodgy looking green connector, will definitely be sorted but doesn't seem to be the issue.

2. By 'no voltage' I mean that it isn't showing any volts on the ammeter, from any of the connections back to the battery. Starting to think a fuse....

3. I picked the coil up off Ebay, didn't look too much into it other than it was for a 2.9 V6 Granada.

As I'm typing this, I've just rechecked the box it was delivered in and found a ballast resistor at the bottom, hidden!!!

That could well be my problem there....

The Beaver King

Original Poster:

6,095 posts

196 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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TVRees said:
v8s4me said:
I relocated my coil last year. The engine ran fine before I moved the it but as soon as I connected everything back up, no spark. After much mucking about, I earthed the coil bracket to the chassis. BINGO! it started.
From the very first photo, it looks like the OP has also a relocated new coil too, so the above maybe also worth trying.


Edited by TVRees on Sunday 8th January 23:13
The coil has always been in this position (on bulkhead, above driver footwell). This may or may not be the original location, but has been there since I've owned the car (circa 8 years).

I'll check the earthing, but I'd be surprised if it was this. The coil bracket is bolted directly to the fibreglass and I haven't seen any earth links coming off the bolts. The coil (old and new) also has a plastic shroud, so would that even conduct back to the bracket?

The Beaver King

Original Poster:

6,095 posts

196 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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phillpot said:
The Beaver King said:
2. By 'no voltage' I mean that it isn't showing any volts on the ammeter, from any of the connections back to the battery. Starting to think a fuse....
Umm, ammeters show amps not volts?
Sorry, you're correct. Voltmeter.


The Beaver King said:
As I'm typing this, I've just rechecked the box it was delivered in and found a ballast resistor at the bottom, hidden!!!

That could well be my problem there....
Err, doubt it, as A. you had the problem before replacing the coil and B. ballast coil will work with 12 volts (may not last too long but it will work).



Had a problem with the ballast resistor on my Taimar once, by-passed it and drove 30 miles home with full 12 volts going into the coil
True. I'm not 100% convinced it was the coil first off, but it definitely needed changing.

The Beaver King

Original Poster:

6,095 posts

196 months

Monday 9th January 2017
quotequote all
tvrgit said:
Let's try again...

tvrgit said:
You need to by systematic, don't jump about guessing and replacing things.

v8s4me said:
Can you clarify "voltmeter shows nothing across any of the connections of the battery...".
This is the fundamental question. What is the battery voltage? (volts, not amps)

When you say "no spark" how exactly have you tested that?

And what is the voltage at the coil +ve with ignition on? Is the coil getting a supply__? If not, then __are any other ignition- controlled systems working (wipers, indicators)? If not, check the ignition switch, or the famous yellow connector at the steering column - it's not uncommon for the ignition live connector to burn out.

Where does the red wire go? Is it "live" or "earthed" with the immobiliser on or off?

Oh, just on the off-chance, you haven't had the distributor out, have you?

There are other tests to do, depending on the results of those first checks, but you can't cover every possible permutation in a single post!
Battery shows 12 volts.

Spark tested by removing the plug and earthing it off the engine; no spark.

Voltage off +ve is 0; I'm gonna run with your suggestion of ignition side. I still have the yellow connector, so I'll start there.

The Beaver King

Original Poster:

6,095 posts

196 months

Thursday 12th January 2017
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Just a quick update.

I can confirm that all my interior bits work when the ignition is on, including wipers etc. Also checked and the coil does seem to be earth through the casing. Check yellow connector and that seemed fine. The random red wire appears to run under the dash and split to feed the gauge lights...? (Really weird, that one. I'm going to have to run some checks on that as I can't see how my interior lights are run off the bleeding coil...!).

Semi gave up after that as I was distracted by fitting a new brake servo. Still, I'm spending a few hours with her on Saturday, so I'll run through fuses and other connections to see if I can nail down the source.

Cheers for the help so far.

The Beaver King

Original Poster:

6,095 posts

196 months

Wednesday 1st March 2017
quotequote all
Sorry guys, ended up getting sidetracked by other projects.

It's running! Well, sort of and only with some buggering about.

Terry was up last weekend and offered to take a look (bullied into it hehe). Lots of testing with the voltmeter, swearing, bypassing things with loose bits of wire etc, all the usual stuff.

The issues was found purely by accident; I was checking the dizzy and it appears the main jack plug had come loose, probably when we were replacing the brake servo. A stupid thing to miss really.

Still struggling to get 12 volts to the coil, but we're pretty sure this is due to the immobiliser. At least the main issue is sorted anyway.

Massive thanks to Terry and a video of him being the hero