Water pump S1

[theprof]

Ladies and gents your help please. Four sheared 10mm headed bolt/screws on my S1 water pump (been in there since 1988). The rest came out ok. Will the pump housing complete, pull off over the remains of the four bolt/studs? The new pump does not have threads in the housing so I assume they are in the block. If so I can deal with these.

[theprof]

Thanks gents.
Its as I had thought and hoped for, so I will go with four brass wedges that I have machined up to gently try to lever it free. (thanks Glen). I am in in half a mind to drill and tap out the original holes to a larger size and change to stainless socket head screws as replacement but lets deal with the major problem first. As for getting the remains of the threads out, I am hoping, now the torque is off because of the missing heads, that they will come free without heat, I will keep you posted.

Phill

[theprof]

Cheapest I have found is 500 bucks, Draper tools. Have used something similar to cure off epoxy resin bonding agent. Once the water pump is off, and the remains of the screws can be seen clearly in the block, then it might be oxy/propane torch with a size one/two nozzle to heat the block.

[theprof]

Well, that was painful:eek. All fastners are out, but at what cost. The photo shows seven sheared, and the long one at the bottom comes from the thermostat housing. This is worring, the screw only shows half the thread, guess where the other part is? Deep inside the timing cover housing. All of them are deeply corroded and in a poot state. The second photo shows one of the four brass wedges I machined up, at least I have that started. The thermostat hosuing can be clearly seen with two of the three long screws (minus heads) protruding. the remains of the third is deep inside.
I do not really want to remove the timing cover, which incedntly, is steel and not ally. This is because on first glance it seems the timing cover is attatched to the sump. Lots to think about and decide???!!!

[theprof]

Sage advice gentleman, and most appreciated. . I will undertake some more investigation and post the results, thank you all.

[theprof]

Sucsess, of a type. Its off.
After twenty minuets of careful 'persusaion' with the brass wedges,it came free. The t/stat housing end was the real problem but it came eventually.
The old one and new one can be seen side by side, the old one being 84.50mm and the new one 83.94 across the diameter of the impeller, note the design difference. The old on being cast ally, so probably not an origonal as I have been lead to belive. And of course the new one is cast ally.

That leaves the remains of the 5 bolts in the timing housing to deal with which are proud by an average of only 3mm (not a lot to work with).
And the two s/stat screws that are now fully exposed.
The upper left hand one rotates cold with mole grips but the bottom right is solid.
I am going to need heat.. Do I bring the heat to the job or the other way around. Job to heat is easier logistically, but that does mean removing the timing housing. 7 bolts in the housing and 5 stud/bolts, I seem to have both i the sump.
Question gentleman. Will removing the timing housing mean a new sump seal and all the huge agro that that will mean?

[theprof]

You are quite correct NZDave, missed that, my bad. Time to get the right one.

[theprof]

The two types are side by side on the website, ive gone and clicked the wrong one! How stupid do I feel Loser.

[theprof]

Interesting about the anti-freeze. It was last serviced by a TVR 'specialist' before my ownership.

[theprof]

thanks Glen,
Very useful info, should have done a bit more homework on this project before I started turning spanners. Oh well, more fun this way! Bull in china shop). Have decided to take the pumps to the supplier, have rung them this morning and they only down the road form me. Will tackle the sheared stuff over the weekend hopefully.

[theprof]

Oxy-acetylene and a fiberglass car,...mmmmmm! What can possibly go wrong.

(Quite what the curtain hook is for I am not exactlty sure).


Sadly I know from bitter expirence what happens when the underseal, that is hiding the bodged up fuel line repair (plastic tubing) melts, melting it all. Fuel pipe and all. Right next to the door sill you are welding!! OMG. Long time ago though. Fire extinguisher please.

Tally Ho!




And the results?



Seven little piggies,
two to go,
two without brothers,
more tom-orrow.

[theprof]

Been a long time since I indulged in the dreaded weed. An engineers backy tin collection is a wonder of bits and bobs. Old stuff? Think my oldest tool is a tap actually. Think it is a 3/8ths BSF plug or second from 1942, date is on the side. Got a kite mark on the side and I am sure, pretty much that is, that that means its old M.O.D stock.
No work today, been for a

[theprof]

Well today was successful.
Full house.



Bye pass flange intact, t/stat housing ok and big black rubber thingy (oil pressuer sender maybe)? Clean.



Just need new pump. Wednesday probably.
New problem to tackle is split and badly fouled (thick orange gunge inside) expansion tank and how to remove it.



The brighter coloured of the two mounting bolts, the one to right, is just spinning. One to the left will proably do the same. Ran out of time to find the other end. Any ideas anyone?

[theprof]

Pressure cap should be on the swirl pot. Thats how I see it. Which means the header tank can be just a normal screw cap. Here is an idea polished aluminium tank, rather than repair the old one. The mounting bracket might be challenge but never met anything I could not do. Any body got one fitted to an s?

[theprof]

Holy H Christ on a Bike! That is cool as . Done deal, how do I it. First thing first though, number one priority, dont let her indoors no!

[theprof]

Balls of steel to tap 14BA, I start to shudder at anything under about 1/4inch. And they dont make taps like they used to. They are made of old chinese bicycle frames and razor blades these days, like toffee crisp.

[theprof]

OMG! Storage heaven, the secrets that lot hold. I am going to build a draw just hold bacce tins.

[theprof]

Cheers Tim
Literally just come in from having my arm all the way down there, head out the drivers door feet out the passengers (nearly broke my back, drivers seat has to come out), and can feel two bolt heads just. The one towards the front of the car is loose which must the one I have already loosened. No backing bar or any type of lug or device that could be said to be a bobbin. Might have expected something like the ones that make up the door hinges, but now I think about it, why woud you. You fix it inplace and forget about it for the next ten years. Think it must be a standard nut and bolt staright through. Cant wait to try and get my head where my feet should be!