Starter Interlock Relay, Kill 3 birds With 1 Stone

Starter Interlock Relay, Kill 3 birds With 1 Stone

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Penelope Stopit

Original Poster:

11,209 posts

110 months

Friday 10th February 2017
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The below circuit achieves 3 objectives and is very simple yet so effective

1 - Car can't possibly be cranked when engine is running, this could save a starter pinion or two

2 - Solves any problems caused by volt drops from ignition switch to starter motor solenoid, more reliable crank voltage

3 - Starter will fail to crank if alternator field circuit goes open circuit, this gives the driver a warning of alternator failure




Connect crank wire from ignition switch or start button to relay terminal 86

Connect relay terminal 85 to alternator warning light circuit at instrument cluster or directly to alternator warning light terminal (should be marked D+ or 61)

Connect relay terminal 30 to battery positive

Connect relay terminal 87 to starter solenoid pull-in terminal

Edited by Penelope Stopit on Tuesday 4th February 12:52

Penelope Stopit

Original Poster:

11,209 posts

110 months

Saturday 11th February 2017
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I wouldn't fuse the relay supply
Take 2 outputs from the relay 87 contact and fuse them both at 5 Amps
1 x 5 Amp fused wire to the solenoid
1 x 5 Amp fused wire to the Gauge/Light

Penelope Stopit

Original Poster:

11,209 posts

110 months

Saturday 25th February 2017
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Alan Whitaker said:
Still in the picture stage at the moment, been busy wiring all the dash gauges and switches, take longer than I thought.
Will be doing the starter / charging next weel

Alan
Only half way done
I am drooling at this picture, I love the way you have cable tied the branches and not done anything too tight at the cable exits
Just look at all those beautiful colours
She's like a rainbow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zphAHMPtu4g

Penelope Stopit

Original Poster:

11,209 posts

110 months

Friday 12th May 2017
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Penelope Stopit

Original Poster:

11,209 posts

110 months

Saturday 1st December 2018
quotequote all
I never did explain how the above circuit works....

There is a negative at the alternator warning light terminal when the engine is not running, once the engine is running the alternator warning light terminal becomes positive and prevents the starter relay from being operated

Penelope Stopit

Original Poster:

11,209 posts

110 months

Tuesday 4th February 2020
quotequote all
I really should have numbered those relay terminals when drawing the diagram.....silly me

Opening post now edited

As for the alternator wiring

The relay earths through the alternator warning light circuit which is of full negative polarity when the alternator is stationary and positive polarity when the alternator has cut-in and started charging (engine running)

The relay can be earthed at the instrument cluster alternator warning light cable or directly to the alternator warning light terminal which should be numbered 61 or D+

Have wired many of these without problems and saved many a starter pinion from being smashed to bits when a nipper presses the start button with engine running

Maths, it's all about doing the maths to help understand how the alternator circuit works

Quickly and roughly calculated below

Starter cranking speed could be 2500 to 3000 RPM

Starter pinion to flywheel ring gear could be 15/20 to 1

Will go for something like worst scenario

Good starter = 3000 RPM

Highest toothed starter pinion = Ratio of 15 to 1

3000 ÷ 15 = Engine cranking speed of 200 RPM

TVR alternators cut-in speed = approx 1000 RPM

Engine crank pulley say 6"

Alternator pulley 2"

Engine to alternator RPM = Ratio of 1 to 3

Engine cranking speed of 200 RPM = Alternator cranking speed of 600 RPM

Alternator is nowhere near its cut-in speed and starter will crank away

There's more though

12 volt relays will pull-in at something in the region of 7 to 8 volts

12 volt relays will not drop out until something in the region of 3 volts or less, sometimes lower that 2 volts, even if the drop out voltage was 5 volts it wouldn't make this circuit fall over

The thing is battery voltage when cranking will be approx 9.6/10 volts and even if an alternator had a 10 watt warning light to bring it's cut-in RPM down and managed to generate........Lets say 5 volts at 600 RPM......There would still be 5 volts across the relay coil to hold it in

Done the above using best figures to try and break the circuit but can't break it

In practice the figures would very likely be more in the circuits favour

Penelope Stopit

Original Poster:

11,209 posts

110 months

Wednesday 5th February 2020
quotequote all
Alan Whitaker said:
Still in the picture stage at the moment, been busy wiring all the dash gauges and switches, take longer than I thought.
Will be doing the starter / charging next weel

Alan
Only half way done
Did the wipers work as planned?

Penelope Stopit

Original Poster:

11,209 posts

110 months

Thursday 6th February 2020
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Ok then