Discussion
In the light of the recent problems with fuel lines, can anyone recommend a reliable source of a good quality product?
Would it be worth running copper from the tank to the engine bay and swapping to rubber for the last twisty bit? If so, at what intervals would the copper pipe need to be secured to the chassis?
Thanks in advance
Would it be worth running copper from the tank to the engine bay and swapping to rubber for the last twisty bit? If so, at what intervals would the copper pipe need to be secured to the chassis?
Thanks in advance
Steve_D said:
...It's on the shelf in our local motor factors...
Not in mine. They hadn't heard of 'Gates' and offered me a 'Technics' (I think) brand at £10pm rated for fuel injection.Steve_D said:
...What makes you think the ones you are seeing are not high pressure?
Because THIS was the only one I could find when I searched eBay and it is listed as "Rated for use to 50 PSI, for any carburettor application". I checked with the seller and he doesn't do high pressure ones.Steve_D said:
..This is likely the part you want and has a burst pressure of 80 bar..
Is that high enough for fuel injection? If so I'll ask what bore size (1/4" yes?) and what length you get for that price. Hopefully more than 5m!GreenV8S said:
....You're in the wrong shop. 
....
For fuel lines, definately. But when I go in for bits for my old 2.8i Tasmin they know exactly what I'm talking about. They stock Valvoline VR1, lots of old RV8 bits, old coolant hoses (cheap ....
) and even understand about the Capri clutch, and they are cheaper than Halfords. Can't have everything I suppose.Edited by v8s4me on Thursday 2nd March 08:44
the existing stuff on mine is 1/4" bore.Steve_D said:
....What makes you think the ones you are seeing are not high pressure?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Barricade-Fuel-Injection... This is likely the part you want and has a burst pressure of 80 bar. ..
Steve
I contacted the seller with these questions:-http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Barricade-Fuel-Injection... This is likely the part you want and has a burst pressure of 80 bar. ..
Steve
Is this hose suitable for high pressure fuel injection systems?
What length is supplied for the price quoted?
What in the internal bore diameter?
Thanks
Joe
They replied:-
Thanks for your message.
If this is a UK vehicle please can you provide your vehicle registration number so I can accurately check if this part fits your car?
If your vehicle is not registered in the UK please can you fill out as much of the information listed below as possible? This information will allow us to identify vehicle:
VIN number
Make (e.g. BMW)
Model (e.g. 3 series)
Variant (e.g. MK III - 2008-2014)
BodyStyle (e.g. saloon)
Type (e.g. 316i)
Year of manufacture
Engine ccm
HP
KW
FWD / RWD / 4WD
Manual / Automatic transmission
Fuel Type
Engine Code
Engine Number
Let me know if you need any more help from us. We are here to help!
Janice
FFS!
TJC46 said:
Here you go......enough gates here to keep anyone happy. http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/fuel-hose-fu...
Blimey! I'm even more confused now 
Right, I'm going to risk a torrent of derision and raise an "Emperor's New Clothes" question.
Why would copper tube be a problem for fuel lines? If the fuel line is fixed in position with ethanol proof rubber hose used at the ends for connecting to parts such as the fuel filter, injector distributor etc. then it is not going to be subjected to any movement. OK, there will be some vibration and heat and so it may loose some malleability over time, but why would that matter?
Cunifer costs about £6.40/m compared to 8mm copper tube from the plumbers merchant at around £1.50/m. Is it really that critical? Copper tube wall thickness is around .75mm so that has to capable of taking some pressure, hasn’t it?
OK, let the derision begin.....
Why would copper tube be a problem for fuel lines? If the fuel line is fixed in position with ethanol proof rubber hose used at the ends for connecting to parts such as the fuel filter, injector distributor etc. then it is not going to be subjected to any movement. OK, there will be some vibration and heat and so it may loose some malleability over time, but why would that matter?
Cunifer costs about £6.40/m compared to 8mm copper tube from the plumbers merchant at around £1.50/m. Is it really that critical? Copper tube wall thickness is around .75mm so that has to capable of taking some pressure, hasn’t it?
OK, let the derision begin.....
In the end I went with copper pipe from the back to the n/s/f wheel-arch and Gates hose from there to the metering head. I replaced all the hoses at the back around the fuel pump/filter etc with Gates hose as well. It was a right bast
rd of a job mainly because of the limited access you get with axle stands.
The old pipes were very badly cracked and perished so if your car is a similar age then I'd urge you to check your hoses carefully and change them asap if they are in any way showing their age.
One of the guys on the Wedge Forum (The Hatter) suggested using an 8mm brass compression fitting to crimp an olive on the end of the pipe, then cut off the fitting. This seemed like a much neater idea than soldering so I applied a pot of tea to his original idea and came up with this...
Clever eh? 'toms-dad' came up with a neat improvement. By assembling the olive on a short piece of pipe and doing the fitting up finger tight you can then remove the pipe and leave everything locked in place with the olive nicely centered. This means you can easily crimp an olive onto the end of a pipe while lying underneath the car with restricted access.
With a bit of practice I reckon you could crimp an olive on single handed.
Presumably you could use this on 8mm Cunifer as well.
rd of a job mainly because of the limited access you get with axle stands.The old pipes were very badly cracked and perished so if your car is a similar age then I'd urge you to check your hoses carefully and change them asap if they are in any way showing their age.
One of the guys on the Wedge Forum (The Hatter) suggested using an 8mm brass compression fitting to crimp an olive on the end of the pipe, then cut off the fitting. This seemed like a much neater idea than soldering so I applied a pot of tea to his original idea and came up with this...
Clever eh? 'toms-dad' came up with a neat improvement. By assembling the olive on a short piece of pipe and doing the fitting up finger tight you can then remove the pipe and leave everything locked in place with the olive nicely centered. This means you can easily crimp an olive onto the end of a pipe while lying underneath the car with restricted access.
With a bit of practice I reckon you could crimp an olive on single handed.
Presumably you could use this on 8mm Cunifer as well.
Edited by v8s4me on Tuesday 28th March 23:49
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