Outer Hebrides: Any recommendations?
Discussion
Myself and Mrs Davie are headed for the Outer Herbrides soon... got the ferry booked from Oban to Barra then on to Uist and then across to Harris and finally, headed back from Stornoway to Ullapool and back south to Middle Earth all over the course of 7 to 10 days (weather depending) We're staying one night on Barra, couple of nights halfway up Uist and the rest... we'll just wing it as we go. We're camping (brave, I know!) and as it's a long time since we left the countryside, we have sites with hook ups booked. I need my hairdryer.
Basically, any recommendations from a Pistonheaders point of view... granted it's not Caterham we're taking, more... several tons of Volvo estate but some good routes will be in order as will any decent beaches, walks and if anybody has done cross country mountain biking over there, I'd be interested to hear your recommendations. It's also a belated honeymoon (big spender me...) so any decent places to eat or even to stay and be pampered for a night and also, a decent campsite with electric hook up (ideally on Harris?) would be decent too.
Appreciated gents!
Basically, any recommendations from a Pistonheaders point of view... granted it's not Caterham we're taking, more... several tons of Volvo estate but some good routes will be in order as will any decent beaches, walks and if anybody has done cross country mountain biking over there, I'd be interested to hear your recommendations. It's also a belated honeymoon (big spender me...) so any decent places to eat or even to stay and be pampered for a night and also, a decent campsite with electric hook up (ideally on Harris?) would be decent too.
Appreciated gents!
Excellent, cheers!
Having Googled, sadly there appears to be no car based events on whilst we're away that I could have accidentally found on purpose as the thought of Mantas and Mk2 Escorts getting flung about single track appeals massively.
I've booked the CalMac hopscotch, worked out at just over £190.00 which seems like pretty decent value for money and takes in Barra, North and South Uist and Harris then drops us back on the mainland... still debating taking a run up to Durness etc on the way home but I guess it'll depend on how our time on the islands pans out.
Have a few touristy things on the list... the airport on the beach, the stones at Callanish, MacLeod standing stone plus she has an extensive list of beaches to visit. First three nights are booked camp wise, poshing it up with electric hook up (extra brownie points in the bag) but still haven't booked anything on Harris.
If the weather is crap, may jump ship early and do a bit of the Northcoast 500 when we hit the mainland again... don't think it'll be that inspiring in a Volvo, loaded up with camping gear and bikes but such is middle aged life!
Having Googled, sadly there appears to be no car based events on whilst we're away that I could have accidentally found on purpose as the thought of Mantas and Mk2 Escorts getting flung about single track appeals massively.
I've booked the CalMac hopscotch, worked out at just over £190.00 which seems like pretty decent value for money and takes in Barra, North and South Uist and Harris then drops us back on the mainland... still debating taking a run up to Durness etc on the way home but I guess it'll depend on how our time on the islands pans out.
Have a few touristy things on the list... the airport on the beach, the stones at Callanish, MacLeod standing stone plus she has an extensive list of beaches to visit. First three nights are booked camp wise, poshing it up with electric hook up (extra brownie points in the bag) but still haven't booked anything on Harris.
If the weather is crap, may jump ship early and do a bit of the Northcoast 500 when we hit the mainland again... don't think it'll be that inspiring in a Volvo, loaded up with camping gear and bikes but such is middle aged life!
Superb images... if it looks like that when we're up there then I think I have little to be concerned about.
We're booked one night camping on Barra so plan to do a bit exploring in the evening so will stick Vatersay on the list. From there we're headed for Uist and camping for two nights somewhere near Carinish so hopefully that'll prove to be a fairly good base camp to explore the north and south islands. Haven't really planned from there yet but it'll be over to Harris and tick off a few places so again, appreciate the heads up on some of those beaches and places to eat. Unclear if we'll stay on Harris for a few extra days then head home from Ullapool or leave a day or two early and do Durness - the latter has been said may be a bit of an anti-climax following a week on the islands?
One random question, how bad are the midges likely to be? We've tried to aim for coastal sites in the hope it may not be as bad but then again it's really going to be dependent on the weather conditions!
As for the bikes, again did a bit Googling and there seems to be very little in the way of single track but there looks to be a few options...
Cheers
We're booked one night camping on Barra so plan to do a bit exploring in the evening so will stick Vatersay on the list. From there we're headed for Uist and camping for two nights somewhere near Carinish so hopefully that'll prove to be a fairly good base camp to explore the north and south islands. Haven't really planned from there yet but it'll be over to Harris and tick off a few places so again, appreciate the heads up on some of those beaches and places to eat. Unclear if we'll stay on Harris for a few extra days then head home from Ullapool or leave a day or two early and do Durness - the latter has been said may be a bit of an anti-climax following a week on the islands?
One random question, how bad are the midges likely to be? We've tried to aim for coastal sites in the hope it may not be as bad but then again it's really going to be dependent on the weather conditions!
As for the bikes, again did a bit Googling and there seems to be very little in the way of single track but there looks to be a few options...
Cheers
No problem on the midge front... head nets purchase, Deet purchased, several cans of Lynx and a lighter purchased.
Still Googling and it seems bike could be a hit of a miss... debating if it's worth the extra hassle / stress of taking them of if it would be better to explore on foot. Her ladyship isn't a keen cyclist, about 10 to 15 miles of fairly tame trail is her limit and I'm not the biggest fan of riding on roads with huge climbs, prefer single track / technical and that seems to be a bit lacking.
Decisions, decisions!
Still Googling and it seems bike could be a hit of a miss... debating if it's worth the extra hassle / stress of taking them of if it would be better to explore on foot. Her ladyship isn't a keen cyclist, about 10 to 15 miles of fairly tame trail is her limit and I'm not the biggest fan of riding on roads with huge climbs, prefer single track / technical and that seems to be a bit lacking.
Decisions, decisions!
Craigie said:
What sites have you booked in to ?
Thus far, I've booked in to Barra Camping on the west coast of Barra for one evening and then the following two nights at Moorcroft Holidays near Cairnish. So far, both seem very accommodating and the locations look good to base a few days exploring the southern islands. I've not booked anything on Harris as yet, my thinking was a couple of days in the south of the island then a couple of days in the north so if anybody can recommend any sites that offer quite secluded camping, with electric hook up ideally... then that'd be appreciated.
I looked at Rodel Hotel, her ladyship is on course for some pampering at some stage so a nice dinner etc is in order, but sadly it seems said hotel is non-longer in business - the internet would suggest it was for sale recently.
I did look into booking an evening or two somewhere nice, that isn't built from nylon and air... but really struggling to find somewhere so again, any suggestions for somewhere nice we could get dinner and an evenings stay, without spending a small ransome then again, it'd be appreciated.
Fairly confident I have Barra / Uist sorted, the latter part of the trip on Harris still is a bit of an unknown with regards to camping sites and somewhere where we can stay, she can flounder in a bath and I can sample the bar facilities!
Cheers
Currently trying to get some sort of 'glamping' or cottage on Harris but very limited availability... not surprising really.
I've popped the people at Horgabost an email and also found a site near Shawbost so just awaiting word back but that looks like it could be a good base for the next leg of the trip and for investigating the northern parts of the island.
Opting not to take the bikes, the hassle / stress probably doesn't warrant how much use they would get... rest assured, I'll regret that but space / security etc makes it seem like a bike too much of a faff.
Plus the old warbird struggle to crack 25mpg as it is, never mind with a couple of bikes ruining my aerodynamics!
I've popped the people at Horgabost an email and also found a site near Shawbost so just awaiting word back but that looks like it could be a good base for the next leg of the trip and for investigating the northern parts of the island.
Opting not to take the bikes, the hassle / stress probably doesn't warrant how much use they would get... rest assured, I'll regret that but space / security etc makes it seem like a bike too much of a faff.
Plus the old warbird struggle to crack 25mpg as it is, never mind with a couple of bikes ruining my aerodynamics!
Well, we went...
Outstanding!
More detailed account to follow but to all who kindly offer their thoughts, thank you... Uig Sands was a particularly highlight as was the Golden Road round the Harris coastline.
1100 miles, safe to say I think I've driven every road in the Outer Herbrides!
Outstanding!
More detailed account to follow but to all who kindly offer their thoughts, thank you... Uig Sands was a particularly highlight as was the Golden Road round the Harris coastline.
1100 miles, safe to say I think I've driven every road in the Outer Herbrides!
Right, have a spare 10mins so... quick whistle stop tour.
Saturday, up to Oban to catch the ferry to Barra. Stocked up at Aldi and Tesco (buying a £40 ALdi electric coolbox was a good move!) and then fueled and boarded the ferry. 5hrs (ish) later after a great crossing, landed on Barra. Set up camp at Borve with electric hookup, bit pricey at £30.00 but lovely site with great views. New tent tested my patience and the strength of our marriage.
Sunday, packed up and drove down to Vatersay. Weather was decent so found our first proper beach... 3mins later found myself diving off the rocks and in. Testicles have almost recovered. Drove up to the ferry terminal, boarded with no issues and and sailed over to Eriskay in the rain. Found Uist to be quite flat, didn't appeal massively... not helped by the weather. Set up camp for two nights at Moorcroft, great site, lovely people and reasonable at £40.00 for the two nights with hook up.
Monday, weather was crap so headed off on a world tour of North Uist and drove pretty much every single road. Had a walk along the RSPB beach on the west coast, had lunch at Lochmaddy in the cafe (excellent) and then went to the old burial mound and the standing stones. Opted to eat out but could only find one place open on Benbecula... big white hotel, name forgotten but it was decent.
Tuesday, headed north to board the ferry to Harris... had a bacon roll at the cafe near the terminal and found out about the 3 mile beach, too late by this stage so boarded the ferry (last car squeezed on, booking advised!) and crossed over the Sound of Harris which was also very pleasant. Landed early afternoon and had a walk along the first big beach (near the old abandoned bus) but with time against us, had a whistle stop tour and pressed on to Tarbert.
This is where it went all random! By chance, popped in to the ferry office to pee... asked about reserving a ferry from Stronoway to Ullapool (final leg of the hopscotch) and were told there were no ferries till Sunday to the mainland. Got put on a reserve for STornoway at 5am Thursday but plan B, booked to go back to Uist then over to Mallaig on Friday just in case. No biggie, not worth stressing over. Pushed on to Stornoway, stocked up at Tesco and filled up again and head for Eilean Froach site where were were going to be for two nights. Rolled up, neither of us were blown away... decided to abandon and wing it, driving to Uig sands instead and wild camped on the beach at £2.00 donation each. Glad we did, incredible place... sad to leave.
Wednesday, up and packed int he rain which was a bit grim then went round the penisula road past Bostadh and then over to Beneray and then found a community cafe with wifi for lunch and to decide if we were a) going to Stornoway to sit out for the ferry or b) head south again to Uist and then back to Mallaig. Opted plan B was better, after all we were there and may as well carry on rather than bail out back to the mainland. Headed to Stornoway to the community centre to use the tunble driers to dry some kit, fueled up, bought black pudding and then headed south again to Tarbert, planning to stay at Horgabost until the ferry to Uist Thursday afternoon.
Arrived in Tarbert and by chance, went to pee in the ferry terminal again and asked if there was a ferry over to Uist we could get that night. Seems we'd since been confirmed as sailing from Stornoway on Thursday morning. So, decision... do we head back north or carry on south. We opted for north but with plenty time, drove the Golded Road down the east coast, past the Rodel hotel then visited Horgabost and the McLeod standing stone... a place I really wanted to see and was annoyed we'd missed it first time. That done, back in the car and up to Stornoway (again!) and figured we'd sleep in the car overnight, then ferry first thing. Went for a curry at the harbour and as we sat, noted the ferry was in and loading lorries... this was 10:30pm. Figured I'd chance my arm and they were brilliant, so we found ourselves on a desterted freight ferry bound for Ullapool. As you do.
Thursday, arrived in Ullapool at 2am with no plan having been awake since 8am. Optiosn were sleep in the car for a bit, head to Durness and sleep or head to Inverness and sleep. Decided the best option was to drive to Applecross, as you do. 4am in the fog over the Ba' is challenging but we arrived in Applecross, threw the pop up tent up on the beach (frowned upon by hey!) and had some sleep. Got up, used the showers at the campsite then had lunch at the inn and wandered to the walled garden. Figured the next stop should be Fort William so off we went, plans were to camp at the Nevis site and then get dinner. Over dinner we decided we should climb Ben Nevis. Bucket list and all that.
Friday, broke camp early and into town for supplies... walked up to the summit and back in 6hrs which I figured was pretty good going. Had a paddle in the rover to soothe the sore feet then a shower at the camp and then headed off, aiming for Red Squirrel in Glencoe. By the time we arrived, we were a bit "Hmmm" so opted for dinner at the Clachaig (superb!) and then decided rather than camp again in a damp tent, we'd just make our way back home... which we did.
So yes, first half went as planned... second half was a bit impromptu but all in all, fabulous week away and glad we ticked a few things off the list. Great food, incredible scenery, lovely people, roads are first class and pothole free... and despite the wee hiccup, the CalMac staff were all brilliant. Only slight disappointment, Uist was a bit featureless but in fairnes,s the weather didn't help. Likewsie Lewis isn't as pretty but Barra and Harris are superb... will definitely be back.
So again, cheers to you guys who offered some thoughts... definitely helped us make the most of the trip and if I can return the favour, I'd be happy to.
Saturday, up to Oban to catch the ferry to Barra. Stocked up at Aldi and Tesco (buying a £40 ALdi electric coolbox was a good move!) and then fueled and boarded the ferry. 5hrs (ish) later after a great crossing, landed on Barra. Set up camp at Borve with electric hookup, bit pricey at £30.00 but lovely site with great views. New tent tested my patience and the strength of our marriage.
Sunday, packed up and drove down to Vatersay. Weather was decent so found our first proper beach... 3mins later found myself diving off the rocks and in. Testicles have almost recovered. Drove up to the ferry terminal, boarded with no issues and and sailed over to Eriskay in the rain. Found Uist to be quite flat, didn't appeal massively... not helped by the weather. Set up camp for two nights at Moorcroft, great site, lovely people and reasonable at £40.00 for the two nights with hook up.
Monday, weather was crap so headed off on a world tour of North Uist and drove pretty much every single road. Had a walk along the RSPB beach on the west coast, had lunch at Lochmaddy in the cafe (excellent) and then went to the old burial mound and the standing stones. Opted to eat out but could only find one place open on Benbecula... big white hotel, name forgotten but it was decent.
Tuesday, headed north to board the ferry to Harris... had a bacon roll at the cafe near the terminal and found out about the 3 mile beach, too late by this stage so boarded the ferry (last car squeezed on, booking advised!) and crossed over the Sound of Harris which was also very pleasant. Landed early afternoon and had a walk along the first big beach (near the old abandoned bus) but with time against us, had a whistle stop tour and pressed on to Tarbert.
This is where it went all random! By chance, popped in to the ferry office to pee... asked about reserving a ferry from Stronoway to Ullapool (final leg of the hopscotch) and were told there were no ferries till Sunday to the mainland. Got put on a reserve for STornoway at 5am Thursday but plan B, booked to go back to Uist then over to Mallaig on Friday just in case. No biggie, not worth stressing over. Pushed on to Stornoway, stocked up at Tesco and filled up again and head for Eilean Froach site where were were going to be for two nights. Rolled up, neither of us were blown away... decided to abandon and wing it, driving to Uig sands instead and wild camped on the beach at £2.00 donation each. Glad we did, incredible place... sad to leave.
Wednesday, up and packed int he rain which was a bit grim then went round the penisula road past Bostadh and then over to Beneray and then found a community cafe with wifi for lunch and to decide if we were a) going to Stornoway to sit out for the ferry or b) head south again to Uist and then back to Mallaig. Opted plan B was better, after all we were there and may as well carry on rather than bail out back to the mainland. Headed to Stornoway to the community centre to use the tunble driers to dry some kit, fueled up, bought black pudding and then headed south again to Tarbert, planning to stay at Horgabost until the ferry to Uist Thursday afternoon.
Arrived in Tarbert and by chance, went to pee in the ferry terminal again and asked if there was a ferry over to Uist we could get that night. Seems we'd since been confirmed as sailing from Stornoway on Thursday morning. So, decision... do we head back north or carry on south. We opted for north but with plenty time, drove the Golded Road down the east coast, past the Rodel hotel then visited Horgabost and the McLeod standing stone... a place I really wanted to see and was annoyed we'd missed it first time. That done, back in the car and up to Stornoway (again!) and figured we'd sleep in the car overnight, then ferry first thing. Went for a curry at the harbour and as we sat, noted the ferry was in and loading lorries... this was 10:30pm. Figured I'd chance my arm and they were brilliant, so we found ourselves on a desterted freight ferry bound for Ullapool. As you do.
Thursday, arrived in Ullapool at 2am with no plan having been awake since 8am. Optiosn were sleep in the car for a bit, head to Durness and sleep or head to Inverness and sleep. Decided the best option was to drive to Applecross, as you do. 4am in the fog over the Ba' is challenging but we arrived in Applecross, threw the pop up tent up on the beach (frowned upon by hey!) and had some sleep. Got up, used the showers at the campsite then had lunch at the inn and wandered to the walled garden. Figured the next stop should be Fort William so off we went, plans were to camp at the Nevis site and then get dinner. Over dinner we decided we should climb Ben Nevis. Bucket list and all that.
Friday, broke camp early and into town for supplies... walked up to the summit and back in 6hrs which I figured was pretty good going. Had a paddle in the rover to soothe the sore feet then a shower at the camp and then headed off, aiming for Red Squirrel in Glencoe. By the time we arrived, we were a bit "Hmmm" so opted for dinner at the Clachaig (superb!) and then decided rather than camp again in a damp tent, we'd just make our way back home... which we did.
So yes, first half went as planned... second half was a bit impromptu but all in all, fabulous week away and glad we ticked a few things off the list. Great food, incredible scenery, lovely people, roads are first class and pothole free... and despite the wee hiccup, the CalMac staff were all brilliant. Only slight disappointment, Uist was a bit featureless but in fairnes,s the weather didn't help. Likewsie Lewis isn't as pretty but Barra and Harris are superb... will definitely be back.
So again, cheers to you guys who offered some thoughts... definitely helped us make the most of the trip and if I can return the favour, I'd be happy to.
bigwheel said:
A great write up.
What a terrific trip you had with everything chucked at you and still achieved so much. Your camping abilities and stamina must have been true teamwork with your better half!
I've experienced Calmac's flexibility, "Any chance of getting 4 artics on that non-scheduled ferry for Uist?"
"Nae bother. On you go!"
And then you think, fancy a hoof up Ben Nevis? I've been up and know it's not a walk in the park. Could you see anything from the summit? I was in the clouds.
Ha, cheers... thankfully she seems quite resilient to typical Scottish summer weather though the first night tent fiasco did try her patience (and mine) so I shall be marching back to Go Outdoors tomorrow whilst praying it wasn't down to me being an idiot and not reading the instructions properly! What a terrific trip you had with everything chucked at you and still achieved so much. Your camping abilities and stamina must have been true teamwork with your better half!
I've experienced Calmac's flexibility, "Any chance of getting 4 artics on that non-scheduled ferry for Uist?"
"Nae bother. On you go!"
And then you think, fancy a hoof up Ben Nevis? I've been up and know it's not a walk in the park. Could you see anything from the summit? I was in the clouds.
Very impressed with CalMac to be honest, credit where credit is due... nothing really seems to be an issue and all the guys on the boat seems to have a cheery attitude despite having to deal with lost Italian tourists, the rain and people like me who turn with with knackered handbrakes.
Ben Nevis was quite strange... it was a fairly clear day but the cloud level was low so we ended up in mist for the last 45mins but it dried up at the top but sadly the cloud didn't lift. Coming down was better, well in terms of the weather and views but it was bloody hard going on the knees. We went prepared but I was astounded at how many people were sauntering up with trainers on and one chap had a small child wearing those croc things and a light summer jacket. There's winging it, but it's still no walk int he park... especially if the weather changes and the temperatures drop. Glad we did it, ended the week on a high... so to speak.
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