390SE progress

390SE progress

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KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Saturday 3rd October 2015
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Well the old worn camshaft is out and the new one is in, complete with duplex timing chain. I've decided for peace of mind to also fit a new oil pump and water pump as both were looking a little tired.



Here's a shot of the old camshaft - there is absolutely no trace of a lobe left (top one as you look at the photo) for the No 1 exhaust valve. The tappet was beautifully dished also. The rest of the camshaft lobes and the other 15 tappets were all looking okay though.



Not a clue what or where the old camshaft is from. It has the markings KCWL9 and S8818. I've tried Googling it but nothing is showing up. Anyone got an clues as to the camshaft origin?



One thing I've noticed is the small oil cooler fitted just infront of the main radiator. I'm presuming that this is an aftermarket installation?

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So new pumps and new oil relief valve arrive Monday so it should all be back together by Wednesday all being well. Fingers crossed it runs without a misfire!

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Saturday 3rd October 2015
quotequote all
Bobby Shaftoe said:
If i remember correctly, KCWL9 is kent cams WL9, WL9 being British Leyland designation for their in house motorsport cam. Quite wild, off the top of my head, 300 degree duration with aggressive opening/closing but only the standard 0.39" lift permitted by regulations of whatever motorsport series it was used in (SD1 touring cars i think).
Thanks for that - ran Kent WL9 through Google and you are spot on with all the facts. Thanks. The "Stealth" camshaft I've fitted has higher lift but is supposedly quite good for general road driving. Hopefully I'll find out in a few days....

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Saturday 3rd October 2015
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mrzigazaga said:
I wonder how long it was running without a lobe?...Just shows how hardy they are..I really hope that this is the final solution to this cars recent history...Good job so far mate...At this rate you will be up for an award....Actually its given me an idea.
Mark, quite happy with this years Wedge personality award. The trophy is stunning and is displayed for all to see! Cheers.

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Saturday 3rd October 2015
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TVRleigh_BBWR said:
All 400SE had an oil cooler in-front of the radiator, I guess it was the same for the 390SE's

Maybe worth getting a silcone hose kit also while most of it is off, as they are not that expensive, and if the hoses are original, then they will be quite brittle. plus they look a lot nicer.

Do you change the oil pump complete or just the gears ??

Yes I've got a new silicon hose kit from ML performance ready to go in when it's all reassembled. For the oil pump the casing is not too bad so just got the two gears, gaskets and oil relief valve assembly. Cheers.

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Monday 5th October 2015
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adam quantrill said:
Interesting - a cam lobe has disappeared so about half an ounce of metal has gone into the oil, and the oil pump top cover and the timing cover are both scored....

I wonder if the two events are connected? Luckily the oil filter prevents the particles getting any further.
And two valves appear to have been replaced also, not on the worn lobe, but on the two valves next to it?

I've asked the garage to drop the sump and flush the whole lot out before even thinking of trying to start it up. When they first took the rocker covers off they did note (and mention) the presence of fine metallic residue which had collected in the top of the engine. As such I imagine there's a lot more lurking at the bottom.

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Tuesday 6th October 2015
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Number 7 said:
Make sure they remove and flush the oil cooler as well.
Good point. Thanks.

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Wednesday 7th October 2015
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TVRTRICEY said:
Sounds like your getting somewhere!
Mine is out too and looks as knackered as yours. Going to drive over to Real Steel on Monday to get everything I need.

When I took my rocker covers off they look pretty much spot on inside (due to the heads being done about 5K ago. This foxed me a bit after seeing the cam considering the amount of metal that has eroded from the Cam lobes! The worst follower was seriously dished as well. My dad'd being working on the car whilst I'm away and he said there was swarf in the sump, oil was nasty and also silicone in the sump.

Yep - a matching set of knackered camshafts! Sump was dropped on mine yesterday. It and the oil pickup were totally sludged up. There was evidence of some metal fines (ex lobe no doubt) but nothing else untoward. Engine sump, pick-up, oil cooler and all now all thoroughly flushed and cleaned.

Sump is back on. New oil pump gears, new water pump, new oil relief valve, timing cover, pulleys all back on. Tomorrow the inlet plenum and wiring goes back on and new silicon hoses fitted throughout. Then it should be ready for a start. Everything will be crossed!

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Sunday 11th October 2015
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Hi, just a quick update on the 390SE.

Well the engine is all back together and is ready for start up, but when we removed the oil cooler for flushing it became obvious that the vertically mounted cooler had worked loose on it's mounts and has steadily hammered its way into the radiator. Although not leaking the fins have completely gone and the core is very badly damaged. As such I've decided to get a new radiator fitted rather than risking the worn one. I'm sure I've read that a standard Range Rover Classic unit will fit with some modification. Is this the case?

When it goes back in the oil cooler will be mounted horizontally rather than vertically so should be more stable. One thing of note is that the oil feed pipes to/from the cooler are only held on with jubilee clips. Given the potential oil pressure I'd have thought pukka hydraulic pipes and unions should be used. Anyone else got jubilee clips on theirs? Personally I don't like the idea.

One final point but the adjustable fuel pressure regulator is actually a Lucas unit. There's a small knurled knob on the top with an allen key slot to adjust pressure accordingly. Anyone ever seen a Lucas unit like this before? I've tried Googling it but came up blank.

So the exciting engine start up is delayed for the time being, but best get it right.

Note the Pipercorss air filter is temporary - I've a shiny new K&N waiting to go in but I didn't want it getting damaged until the bonnet is back on and all engine bay work is finished.





Adjustable Lucas fuel regulator. Accelerator cable looks past its best I know.

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Monday 12th October 2015
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Hi all and thanks for the replies. Our local Hereford radiators can refurb the existing unit for £200 so going that way so at least I know that it will all fit back afterwards.

Re the oil cooler hoses - next door to our office is a hydraulics company. They can make up a pukka set of high pressure hoses with the necessary 90 degree ends and unions. £20 for both hoses, so going to get a set made up tomorrow.


KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
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One slightly worn radiator. Top of radiator and also one of the bottom brackets have also detached themselves so well past a rebuild anyway. It's only money.....





Edited by KKson on Wednesday 14th October 08:57

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
quotequote all
Radiator is now with Hereford Radiators who have been recommended by several locals. They will completely re-core and rebuild to "as new" for just over £200, and at least I know it will fit. They have several classic car radiators in at the moment being worked on.


KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
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TVRleigh_BBWR said:
On the racer I've got an escort cosworth Ali one (rated at 500 BHP). very similar in size if you want to mess with brackets.
I had to make new brackets anyway for the racer.
The one I got was budget one, with large cores and doubt it would cool 500 BHP. it strugles with my 230 BHP, I've got a genuine metal one, so going to swap to over, when I put the new engine in. and see how it compares. but I would personally say away from the large core ali rads.
Mr Hereford Radiator man said that he's seen too many ali ones furring up, no doubt due to lack of suitable antifreeze inhibitor. Also he says that they are more susceptible to stone damage.

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
quotequote all
Number 7 said:
Keith, I'd recommend getting a proper boss for the temp sensor fitted so you can put a screw in type, rather than the rubbish way the otter switch is normally mounted.
Good plan. Any recommendations as to type and thread size? I'm presuming just stick with standard Lucar connectors? Thanks.

How about one of these?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIATOR-FAN-SWITCH-FOR-...


Edited by KKson on Wednesday 14th October 19:08

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
quotequote all
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
if you get a Griff / Chim fan switch, then get the rad guy to fit a boss the same size, that's what I have in my 400SE.
Okay one ordered from TVR Parts, due Friday. Any idea what thread it is? Is it M22? Cheers.

Edited by KKson on Wednesday 14th October 20:58


Edited by KKson on Wednesday 14th October 21:00

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Thursday 15th October 2015
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TVRleigh_BBWR said:
was a while ago, but M22 sounds about right. took a lot more torque than expected to get it to seal.
Just to confirm the standard thread for the TVR Griff and Chimp radiator fan switches is M22 x 1.5. Radiator is being modified and fan switch is on its way.

I've ordered a pukka set of hydraulic hoses for the oil cooler. Connections on mine are 1/2" BSP, as are the connections on the other end. I've ordered two 1m hoses. Fixed 90 degrees bends at one end with straight BSP female connections on the other, plus two 1/2" BSP male/female swept 90- bends so I can adjust the angle of dangle. £34 + VAT and good for several hundred psi!

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Thursday 15th October 2015
quotequote all
The radiator that fits is being rebuilt, but with a 22mm boss and Griff screwed rad fan thermostat, so at least I'm 100% confident the bugger will go back in where it came out. Radiator firm confirmed that the "core" is exactly the same as a classic Range Rover.