Discussion
Can't find my thread on why my 280i refuses to start but since it "runs" on starter spray, it has to be an fuel issues (,IMHO). So I bought as CIS tester gauge kit. Next weekend we will see. And since I'll only need the thing once or twice, if anyone need to borrower it let me know. Grady
Battery - It will run down but I keep it on a 10/15 amp charger when testing and then fully charge it at 2 amps. I'll probably connect a bigger battery for the next step of testing.
Starter - Happily spins until/unless it sucks the battery down. Don't think that's the problem.
Fuel - I'll be careful - thanks for the warnings.
Pump - Such a PITA to get to so I haven't. It's something that has never been replaced (in my ownership). I know it's pumping and not making noises but no idea what kind of pressure /volume it's pushing - that's where I'm starting.
Specs - got them. Actually looked at the service manual which seem rather useful: "If all else fails, read the directions." Also I have the Bosch CIS "care and feeding" inset.
Hope to get to work on Saturday, so I may have some further info to post (or not depending on what the family is doing). Grady
Starter - Happily spins until/unless it sucks the battery down. Don't think that's the problem.
Fuel - I'll be careful - thanks for the warnings.
Pump - Such a PITA to get to so I haven't. It's something that has never been replaced (in my ownership). I know it's pumping and not making noises but no idea what kind of pressure /volume it's pushing - that's where I'm starting.
Specs - got them. Actually looked at the service manual which seem rather useful: "If all else fails, read the directions." Also I have the Bosch CIS "care and feeding" inset.
Hope to get to work on Saturday, so I may have some further info to post (or not depending on what the family is doing). Grady
It has not been a successful day.
It took much too long to change the wiper motor in my old truck and now it appears that one's battery is bad. Off to find out in a minute.
Meanwhile I hooked my new tester into the top port on the fuel valve and nothing. Also no back pressure in the system when I cracked the fitting. That's different.
Looking to bypass the cream colored engine run switch/relay to test the pump, I don't see how to replace it with a headlight relay as it's wired to a white multi-wire pigtail connector not a 4 spade fitting???
Finally is the pump 12 volt? I saw a thread that implied it might be lower voltage. I'd like to power it directly (with all the hoses in situ) and see happens. Grady
It took much too long to change the wiper motor in my old truck and now it appears that one's battery is bad. Off to find out in a minute.
Meanwhile I hooked my new tester into the top port on the fuel valve and nothing. Also no back pressure in the system when I cracked the fitting. That's different.
Looking to bypass the cream colored engine run switch/relay to test the pump, I don't see how to replace it with a headlight relay as it's wired to a white multi-wire pigtail connector not a 4 spade fitting???
Finally is the pump 12 volt? I saw a thread that implied it might be lower voltage. I'd like to power it directly (with all the hoses in situ) and see happens. Grady
I jacked up the car, removed the rear wheel to get to the pump.
Test it directly off a extra battery and it sounded OK.
Unhooked the yellow starter wire.
Connected the new gauges to the line that goes to the warm-up regulator.
With the flow valve closed, I pretty quickly pressurized to 10 PSI (.6 BAR) which built to 14 PSI (.9 BAR). That's exactly w/in spec I believe.
Off, it seems to hold at about 10 PSI.
That seems to indicate the pump accumulator, though filter is OK. More testing... results to come.
Well that was too optimistic...
I checked the flow back the tank (return line) and got just some gassy smelling mist.
Also noticed there was no fuel in any of the test connections/hoses.
Unhooked the supply line at the intake side of the filter and in 15 seconds of cranking got about a tablespoon of gas.
Almost like the pump is building air pressure. So do I have gas in the tanks? Gauge says yes and I put a couple of gallons in a month ago but that the next thing to check.
Test it directly off a extra battery and it sounded OK.
Unhooked the yellow starter wire.
Connected the new gauges to the line that goes to the warm-up regulator.
With the flow valve closed, I pretty quickly pressurized to 10 PSI (.6 BAR) which built to 14 PSI (.9 BAR). That's exactly w/in spec I believe.
Off, it seems to hold at about 10 PSI.
That seems to indicate the pump accumulator, though filter is OK. More testing... results to come.
Well that was too optimistic...
I checked the flow back the tank (return line) and got just some gassy smelling mist.
Also noticed there was no fuel in any of the test connections/hoses.
Unhooked the supply line at the intake side of the filter and in 15 seconds of cranking got about a tablespoon of gas.
Almost like the pump is building air pressure. So do I have gas in the tanks? Gauge says yes and I put a couple of gallons in a month ago but that the next thing to check.
Edited by Grady on Saturday 5th December 22:07
It runs, sort of.
Battery tested good.
Tested the flow at the tank return 350 ml in 15 seconds, which would be 700 at 30 seconds which is a bit less than 1/2 of what the manual calls for (1500 cm3) if I'm doing the conversion correctly.
Tested the line pressure in several places each exactly 70 PSI. Which my phone converts to 4.8 bar which would be way high (0,6 to 1,0).
I though what the hell, let's try it. And discovered the clutch master had frozen. Tried it anyway and it caught for a second. Popped off the air filter and manually opened air plate a bit and it caught and ran, but only at high revs. Once it warmed up, it would idle roughly and then die suddenly.
The clutch is still working so I took out for a very short spin. Runs OK once rolling but it will not start (without a shot of starting fluid and then it fires right up) and it will not idle.
BTW I put 3 gallons of fresh high test in at the start of this process so this was more than a 'no gas' issue.
Grady
Battery tested good.
Tested the flow at the tank return 350 ml in 15 seconds, which would be 700 at 30 seconds which is a bit less than 1/2 of what the manual calls for (1500 cm3) if I'm doing the conversion correctly.
Tested the line pressure in several places each exactly 70 PSI. Which my phone converts to 4.8 bar which would be way high (0,6 to 1,0).
I though what the hell, let's try it. And discovered the clutch master had frozen. Tried it anyway and it caught for a second. Popped off the air filter and manually opened air plate a bit and it caught and ran, but only at high revs. Once it warmed up, it would idle roughly and then die suddenly.
The clutch is still working so I took out for a very short spin. Runs OK once rolling but it will not start (without a shot of starting fluid and then it fires right up) and it will not idle.
BTW I put 3 gallons of fresh high test in at the start of this process so this was more than a 'no gas' issue.
Grady
Edited by Grady on Sunday 6th December 22:16
I removed, tested, cleaned, lubed and replaced and it promptly started and ran just fine thank you.
I never got the cold start injector to fire on the loom but when I hot wired it, it sprayed nicely.
The "no idle" problem was fixed by screwing in the stop about 3-4 turns. It was tightly locked so something else must have upset it.
Clutch master is working for now. And the brakes have quieted down although the rotor on the driver's side in hotter that the other (not smoking, just hotter) so that side may be sticking a bit. Bill does have caliper at $130 each. CARid.com doesn't anymore.
Thanks for all the help. Grady
I never got the cold start injector to fire on the loom but when I hot wired it, it sprayed nicely.
The "no idle" problem was fixed by screwing in the stop about 3-4 turns. It was tightly locked so something else must have upset it.
Clutch master is working for now. And the brakes have quieted down although the rotor on the driver's side in hotter that the other (not smoking, just hotter) so that side may be sticking a bit. Bill does have caliper at $130 each. CARid.com doesn't anymore.
Thanks for all the help. Grady
Edited by Grady on Monday 14th December 13:17
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