Discussion
Used (white) Rustoleum on the last one, still have some left so I'm going to carry on with that.
POR15 will give me a headache unless I use a respirator.
The chassis has got white powder coat, the photos maybe didn't show too clearly, the rest of it is like a new(er) car, the sills had about a kilo of mud in there which rotted the outriggers, I've not seen any rot elsewhere.
If the rest of it is ok it won't need blasting which means I won't need to pull the engine, I can just sort the running gear, bushes, brake and fuel lines etc. It's so far gone in places stuff has just turned to dust, steering rack gaiter has just flaked off.
Question: I've got a piece of 4"x2"posted through the rear wheel arches to lift at the rear, the front looks tight for space, will the same be ok to lift the front? & fuel tanks stay in the tub right?
POR15 will give me a headache unless I use a respirator.
The chassis has got white powder coat, the photos maybe didn't show too clearly, the rest of it is like a new(er) car, the sills had about a kilo of mud in there which rotted the outriggers, I've not seen any rot elsewhere.
If the rest of it is ok it won't need blasting which means I won't need to pull the engine, I can just sort the running gear, bushes, brake and fuel lines etc. It's so far gone in places stuff has just turned to dust, steering rack gaiter has just flaked off.
Question: I've got a piece of 4"x2"posted through the rear wheel arches to lift at the rear, the front looks tight for space, will the same be ok to lift the front? & fuel tanks stay in the tub right?
Bit of a boring photo but this is the worst of the rot I've found so far other than the now replaced outriggers.
The previous owner has painted the rear section black which I'm going to remove and repaint white.
No need for this to go to the blasters, most of the powder coat is good and has shiny metal underneath.
I've damaged one of the tanks during the lift, fuel return was connected and broke the spigot connection.
I'm wondering if the hole can be plugged and the return plumbed into one of the link pipes in that area?
The previous owner has painted the rear section black which I'm going to remove and repaint white.
No need for this to go to the blasters, most of the powder coat is good and has shiny metal underneath.
I've damaged one of the tanks during the lift, fuel return was connected and broke the spigot connection.
I'm wondering if the hole can be plugged and the return plumbed into one of the link pipes in that area?
Thanks for your thoughts, I'll bear the above in mind.
The spigot had been soft soldered so maybe it can be redone without a flame involved.
No rush at this stage, lots of other things to get on with.
This is a very low mileage car, l was expecting to see it a bit cleaner inside the plenum
The spigot had been soft soldered so maybe it can be redone without a flame involved.
No rush at this stage, lots of other things to get on with.
This is a very low mileage car, l was expecting to see it a bit cleaner inside the plenum
Thanks Wedg1e I'll not be panicking then, sorry for delay, been away hooning in the Europe.
Back to wedging, plodding on with sanding and painting chassis, bit of a drag but the lump isn't coming out so grit blasting is not an option.
Question: what size and thread are the nuts that go on the drive shaft flanges?
7/16 unf go on ok but feel a bit baggy plus I guess they will be exposed to heat so not nyloc, anything special?
Back to wedging, plodding on with sanding and painting chassis, bit of a drag but the lump isn't coming out so grit blasting is not an option.
Question: what size and thread are the nuts that go on the drive shaft flanges?
7/16 unf go on ok but feel a bit baggy plus I guess they will be exposed to heat so not nyloc, anything special?
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