Window will not wind fully up!

[LenChim]

350i (87) the drivers side window will not wind fully up. it wound down ok not slow just fine but when I wound it up it went up at the normal speed and then clonk it stopped. I wound it down again went ok to the bottom then up and about 1/3 of the way clonk it stopped again. I have looked in the wedge book it is not a lot of help, I can not even find a full description of all the fixings. I have taken off the door trim panel and all the little plastic covers but still can not see what is catching. It seems to be when all the mechanical's line up with the runner along the bottom of the window. Has anybody got a decent diagram of the mechanical's or the bolts nuts and screws to remove to get the assembly out? Or anything that I should be careful with?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Len

[LenChim]

colin mee said:

Hi .I had this on mine it was hitting the gidetails on the top of the door and had come out of the vertical rubber inside the door.hope this helps .colin

There does not seem to be a problem with the guide rails, the glass is still in the rails front and back and it (the glass) is still in the holder at the bottom. As I said the widow come about a 1/3 of the way up and stops dead with a clonk like there is a mechanical stop. It is at the point when the bottom runner and lever arms all line up.

[LenChim]

mrzigazaga said:

Hi mate...Just be careful you don't break it...It could be as Colin say's or it might be the brake cable that stops the window going up too much caught on something...You should be able to see the cable with the door card off in the bottom right hand corner...An ingenious TVR piece of engineering...

I wondered what that old bicycle brake cable and adjuster was for. It does not go tight as the window goes up but seeing the bottom end if it has some crude fitting on the other end may be that is causing the system to jam.

[LenChim]

ElvisWedgely said:

It may not be an obstuction at all. It could be that one of the wheels have come out of the runner. On the downward motion it would work, but on the upward motion the wheel may be catching on the runner entrance and halting the motion, if that makes sense.

Tony. TCB.

I have to say it would make sense but the the wheels are the track and it all looks square.

[LenChim]

RCK974X said:

Brake cable is to stop window going up right to top of rail, as it catches on roof panel when door open/close (it does on mine anyway).
So on mine, cable goes tight and stops window when about 1/4 inch below top.
It's a pain to make sure cable is free for full movement.....

It could also be something wedged in one of the teeth or damaged tooth on the lifter.
It won't necessarily catch on the way down with bad tooth as weight helps downward movement, but not up.

It could be lots of things - here's what I can think of

Rails and rubbers inside rails (broken, bunched up, bent)
Mechanism itself (rollers, runners for rollers, teeth, broken pivot,etc)
just simple wear on teeth finally 'jams up' (had that on mine, got a new assembly from scrappers (= SD1))
Cable catching on something.
Glass loose in its runner can cause misalignment.

Thanks. As you had to replace the mechanism do you have any information on how to get the window mechanism out? Pictures diagrams etc? Do's and don'ts.

[LenChim]

RCK974X said:

Just remembered - set window so that its (front) sloping section is partly in the door, which gives more horizontal movement when vertical runners removed, so there is enough movement in the window to slide it off its runners.... so probably only one third up.

and forgot the three screws on top of the triangle in front runner - mine are just self tappers into grp.

If I remember more I'll post it.

May be there's and SD1 door picture on web somewhere, may at least show how the main 'X' runners connect up...

Edited by RCK974X on Thursday 30th June 23:56

Thanks for the info in both posts, I am just about to go and have a go at removing the window parts. I did look on line for information but could not find anything that was really useful.

[LenChim]

Jubjub502 said:

And be careful, especially putting the wheel in the short track on the bottom rear, gnarly, sharp edges!

Well I have just got the widow out it seems that the bottom rail has rotted and allowed the rail to roll this it seems was causing the window to jam possibly against the door reinforcement bars. So I am now looking for a new bottom rail on the web.

[LenChim]

Jack Valiant said:

Found this in my archive ... may be helpful ... not sure who did it but I used it when replacing my runners and motors on the Gredge



I got my runners from Rimmers by the way

Enjoy

Chris

Thanks Chris,


As you can see the bottom channel that the glass fits in is rusted out, so I am looking for a new on. I will try Rimmers.

Thanks

Len

[LenChim]

[LenChim]

mrzigazaga said:

Thats in good condition compared to mine...


Make sure you get the rubber inlay as well...Might be worth spraying the new ones up with some protection...Dont buy the cheap ones from trimmers as they may rot in a year or so...
Cheers
Ziga

Waiting for "TVRPasts" to come back to me, I have tried "Rimmers" but they do not have any. Has anybody got any suggestion who might have one?

[LenChim]

Jack Valiant said:

Land Rover Defender ....



Do a search for Land Rover Defender door glass channel

Chris

Will it fit?

[LenChim]

mrzigazaga said:

They look right...You may need some 1mm nitrile sheeting to sit the glass in...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-FRON...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-FRON...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-1...

Well I have ordered one complete with rubber glassing strip, so we will see what turns up and if it fits, ether way I will post and answer.
"DEFENDER WINDOW LIFTING CHANNEL RUBBER 4mm glass (GENUINE LAND ROVER) MWC4763"

[LenChim]

OK guys, thanks for all your help. the Wedge is now back on the road, fitting the parts only took an hour once they had arrived. Just a few things to note if you have to do it.
I bought the window rubber on ebay and I thought it included the channel as the picture above shows but you ONLY get the rubber for your £21.00. Not the metal channel.
You can buy the rubber as I found out later from C O H Baines Ltd part number:- IRS 0915 buy the meter for less money.
The metal window channel the part that actually carries the glass and rubber strip is Part number :- MTC8477. I bought on ebay from "Scientific World" for £12.00
The fit the rubber into the metal channel, then with the help of some soap and water push the glass into the rubber "U" channel, you will have to stop the rubber from folding over with something fine and stiff, a blunt knife etc. Block soap is best e.g. Palmolive etc.
Any way as I said thank for the help, Len.