The 280i rebuilding is about to commence !!
Discussion
Evening all.
Well, after approx 8 years (can't remember the actual date) of my 280i being garage'a'lised , I'm finally in the mood to get my fingers dirty and start the work getting it back on the road..
After a great day at Castle Coombe yesterday, I've no 'important' car dates in my diary - untill BBWF 2017
. As a result, shipping the 350i off to my brother's driveway for a while whilst I pull the 280 out of the garage to start the work.
This is how it looks at the moment !!
Now, will probably have a load of questions to ask you all in the coming months but the first one is..
Can anyone recommend me a suitable sturdy engine stand for the V6 ? as I wish to dismantle and replace gaskets / seals etc, also just tart it up a bit..
Dont want to spend huge money as it will be a one time use..
Cheers
Dom
Well, after approx 8 years (can't remember the actual date) of my 280i being garage'a'lised , I'm finally in the mood to get my fingers dirty and start the work getting it back on the road..
After a great day at Castle Coombe yesterday, I've no 'important' car dates in my diary - untill BBWF 2017
. As a result, shipping the 350i off to my brother's driveway for a while whilst I pull the 280 out of the garage to start the work.This is how it looks at the moment !!
Now, will probably have a load of questions to ask you all in the coming months but the first one is..
Can anyone recommend me a suitable sturdy engine stand for the V6 ? as I wish to dismantle and replace gaskets / seals etc, also just tart it up a bit..
Dont want to spend huge money as it will be a one time use..
Cheers
Dom
Thanks for the suggestions so far guys..
I have contemplated making a stand for it but ideally, I was after something that I could rotate the block with.
I've looked at my local tool hire place and they only do an engine crane, not stand, so I'll prob pop into my local machine mart on Friday and see what they have in stock.
From what I've seen on the net, I'll be looking for a 2 leg, 4 castor version and not a 1 leg , 3 castor cheaper version... if that makes sense.
Watch this space
I have contemplated making a stand for it but ideally, I was after something that I could rotate the block with.
I've looked at my local tool hire place and they only do an engine crane, not stand, so I'll prob pop into my local machine mart on Friday and see what they have in stock.
From what I've seen on the net, I'll be looking for a 2 leg, 4 castor version and not a 1 leg , 3 castor cheaper version... if that makes sense.
Watch this space
Morning all.
Do you think this stand would be ok ? or would you go for a known make ?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FDS-Transmission-Support-...
Do you think this stand would be ok ? or would you go for a known make ?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FDS-Transmission-Support-...
mrzigazaga said:
However i do believe that the V6 is heavier than the V8!
Ive heard that.. but it's not going to be over the SGS stand 680kg capacity is it ? the whole car comes in at just over 1080kg's ..... Yatesy350i said:
Hi Mate
Can't recommend this company enough. I've had a 2t engine crane, a set of four wheel dollies and a chainsaw from them. All free next day post. The engine crane was a particularly good deal at the time. Cheaper than I could find a used one on the bay at the time.
http://www.sgs-engineering.com/garage-equipment/en...
Karl.
Thanks Karl, that looks alot better than the Amazon one for sure.. just phoned them and they have a 2 week lead time for the stand.. Can't recommend this company enough. I've had a 2t engine crane, a set of four wheel dollies and a chainsaw from them. All free next day post. The engine crane was a particularly good deal at the time. Cheaper than I could find a used one on the bay at the time.
http://www.sgs-engineering.com/garage-equipment/en...
Karl.
anyway, cheers guys.
Got the 280 out of the garage last night to start to compile the to do list.. its going to be a large one..
Just thought I'd share a few pics.
Cant wait to hear these again... reckon I've got a good chance of being a future noisy git.
Need to get them adjusted slightly - 1 their not straight and 2 they are dis-colouring the bumper.
Just thought I'd share a few pics.
Cant wait to hear these again... reckon I've got a good chance of being a future noisy git.
Need to get them adjusted slightly - 1 their not straight and 2 they are dis-colouring the bumper.
ok, spent a little time last night attempting to get the engine mounted onto the stand and fell at the first hurdle - the bell housing bolts arent long enough to go through the stand mounts into the block..
anyhow, got the gearbox & bellhousing separated from the engine, clutch and flywheel removed.
This was behind the flywheel.
Now, I think this seal / bearing is the culprit to the massive oil leak I experianced during the last drive out.. when the AA dropped me back home, topped the oil back up and you could see it pour out from the bellhousing area..
anyhow, got the gearbox & bellhousing separated from the engine, clutch and flywheel removed.
This was behind the flywheel.
Now, I think this seal / bearing is the culprit to the massive oil leak I experianced during the last drive out.. when the AA dropped me back home, topped the oil back up and you could see it pour out from the bellhousing area..
Thanks for that Adam.
Approx 50 miles before the oil loss incident, I did replace all the head gaskets ( with head skim ) and rocker cover gaskets with the help of a good matey.. we didnt touch the bottom end at all so they would still be the original seals we reckon..
on another note, just popped into the garage next door during a ciggy break and they have supplied me with suitable bolts to get the block attached to the stand I know what I'm now planning to do tonight.
Approx 50 miles before the oil loss incident, I did replace all the head gaskets ( with head skim ) and rocker cover gaskets with the help of a good matey.. we didnt touch the bottom end at all so they would still be the original seals we reckon..
on another note, just popped into the garage next door during a ciggy break and they have supplied me with suitable bolts to get the block attached to the stand
I know what I'm now planning to do tonight. John042 said:
Hi Sirealalot.I've just finished a complete rebuild of a 2.8i engine literally from a pile of parts in various boxes, not necessarily from the same engine! Long story. Anyway you've obviously solved the problem of mounting the engine in the stand with longer bolts? A real bonus having a stand you can rotate the engine in. On mine unfortunately you couldn't fit the flywheel whilst in the stand. The rest was basic engine reassembly except for the various head gaskets available. Some matched most of the waterways; modification to divert coolant to hot spots? Good luck. J C.
Thanks John. Yup, the longer bolts should now do the job of mounting the engine to the stand, I took the clutch and flywheel off last night.
After putting the rebuld off for years, literally, i'm now itching to get stuck in and see what happens..
I will be frequently updating this thread so watch this space.
Cheers
Dom
Morning all.
Well, an interesting night yesterday, managed to get the water pump off, had some congealed coolent within the impeller - could have been a sympton for past overheating but more likely its just because it has been sat for so long.
Also removed the Plenum to reveal a pretty much brand new gasket below.. we did replace this when the head gasket was done so not many miles covered since !!
Also cleaned up the front of the block, removed all remanents of the water pump gaskets.
as you can see from pic two, the rocker covers are looking pretty nasty, what is the best way to stop any crap going into the block when things like the covers or intake manifold are removed ? I've masking taped all the exposed places.
Also, the front crank pulley is properly stuck on.. tried a few things to try and remove but it's having none of it.. any suggestions ?
Having a look at the rest of car, the major things I reckon will need replacing or refurb are mainly the Brakes/ Suspension and complete fuel system from tanks through to injectors.
smaller things like the brake pipes - going to be making these up and routing to suit.
The rad will need to be recored or replaced - going to be fitting an electric fan and do away with the viscous one.
And in my head I have an idea for a headlight mod to do away with the pop ups.. wont say much more at mo.
Well, an interesting night yesterday, managed to get the water pump off, had some congealed coolent within the impeller - could have been a sympton for past overheating but more likely its just because it has been sat for so long.
Also removed the Plenum to reveal a pretty much brand new gasket below.. we did replace this when the head gasket was done so not many miles covered since !!
Also cleaned up the front of the block, removed all remanents of the water pump gaskets.
as you can see from pic two, the rocker covers are looking pretty nasty, what is the best way to stop any crap going into the block when things like the covers or intake manifold are removed ? I've masking taped all the exposed places.
Also, the front crank pulley is properly stuck on.. tried a few things to try and remove but it's having none of it.. any suggestions ?
Having a look at the rest of car, the major things I reckon will need replacing or refurb are mainly the Brakes/ Suspension and complete fuel system from tanks through to injectors.
smaller things like the brake pipes - going to be making these up and routing to suit.
The rad will need to be recored or replaced - going to be fitting an electric fan and do away with the viscous one.
And in my head I have an idea for a headlight mod to do away with the pop ups.. wont say much more at mo.
Doah..
Need ideas guys... snapped a bolt last night taking the warm up regulator off, it must have been weak to start with as didnt use any force with my ratchet.
It's the lower one of the two in pic
The bolt has sheared within the hole so its not possible to grip with anything.
Looking on the net for suggestions they seem to be..
1, weld another thinner bolt onto it to then unscrew.
2, grind flat and weld a nut onto it to unscrew.
3, centrepunch the bolt, drill into it starting thin dia and working up until most removed, then clean hole and thread up.
4, use an 'easy screw extractor'
I think options 1 and 2 are out as the bolt isnt protruding out of the hole.
What ideas would you all suggest to remove it ?
Cheers
Dom
edit to add, not sure if any use but noticed in the end picture of last update, you can see the bolt protruding slightly out of the bottom.
Need ideas guys... snapped a bolt last night taking the warm up regulator off, it must have been weak to start with as didnt use any force with my ratchet.
It's the lower one of the two in pic
The bolt has sheared within the hole so its not possible to grip with anything.
Looking on the net for suggestions they seem to be..
1, weld another thinner bolt onto it to then unscrew.
2, grind flat and weld a nut onto it to unscrew.
3, centrepunch the bolt, drill into it starting thin dia and working up until most removed, then clean hole and thread up.
4, use an 'easy screw extractor'
I think options 1 and 2 are out as the bolt isnt protruding out of the hole.
What ideas would you all suggest to remove it ?
Cheers
Dom
edit to add, not sure if any use but noticed in the end picture of last update, you can see the bolt protruding slightly out of the bottom.
Edited by Sireatalot on Friday 5th August 09:41
Morning all.
Last night I took off the heads, this is what it looked like.
Drivers side
Passenger side
Drivers side
Passenger side
Looks like it needs a good clean all round.
I was thinking of just cleaning the valves up but now think that replacements are in order. Even though the pistons look quite a little cruddy, the bores look to be fine - no scores or marks down them.
It's only been a approx 50 miles of driving since the head gasket was done so not planning on getting the heads skimmed.
So, tonights job will be to remove the sump and start work on the bottom half of block.
Last night I took off the heads, this is what it looked like.
Drivers side
Passenger side
Drivers side
Passenger side
Looks like it needs a good clean all round.
I was thinking of just cleaning the valves up but now think that replacements are in order. Even though the pistons look quite a little cruddy, the bores look to be fine - no scores or marks down them.
It's only been a approx 50 miles of driving since the head gasket was done so not planning on getting the heads skimmed.
So, tonights job will be to remove the sump and start work on the bottom half of block.
Morning all.
Thought I've give a small update.
Everything on the top half of block has now been removed, the broken snapped bolts have been removed form the inlet manifold and the crank pulley / timing cover removed.
Next on my list was to get the various parts all degreased and cleaned ( professionally ) and then look at painting and reassembling it with new gaskets / seals etc..
however. Been speaking to a chap who has suggested also doing the piston rings and crank bearings whilst the engine is stripped down. This wasnt on my list of jobs but starting to wonder if I should.. there is no piston slap and the crank seems to be in pretty much new condition.
What do you all think - would it be wise to do ?
also, if I did replace the crank bearings ( big end bearings ?) would the crank need to be reground to suit ?
In the above pic, the timing gear has a outer plastic section with the teeth - I have seen all alloy / steel replacements but again, not sure if this is something I should replace as the existing looks 100% condition.
Cheers all. comments welcome as always
Dom
ps. one more thing... is powdercoating suitable for an engine block / heads / rocker covers etc... or would the temps be too high ? would you just think of painting with a high temp engine paint ?
Thought I've give a small update.
Everything on the top half of block has now been removed, the broken snapped bolts have been removed form the inlet manifold and the crank pulley / timing cover removed.
Next on my list was to get the various parts all degreased and cleaned ( professionally ) and then look at painting and reassembling it with new gaskets / seals etc..
however. Been speaking to a chap who has suggested also doing the piston rings and crank bearings whilst the engine is stripped down. This wasnt on my list of jobs but starting to wonder if I should.. there is no piston slap and the crank seems to be in pretty much new condition.
What do you all think - would it be wise to do ?
also, if I did replace the crank bearings ( big end bearings ?) would the crank need to be reground to suit ?
In the above pic, the timing gear has a outer plastic section with the teeth - I have seen all alloy / steel replacements but again, not sure if this is something I should replace as the existing looks 100% condition.
Cheers all. comments welcome as always
Dom
ps. one more thing... is powdercoating suitable for an engine block / heads / rocker covers etc... or would the temps be too high ? would you just think of painting with a high temp engine paint ?
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Dom
The timing chain and gear was a question i asked when we were supercharging but there hadn't been that many reports of them disintegrating, However while its all off it might be something to consider.
Not sure about the rings etc.....If the engine was healthy and pulling good power with no smoke or mis-fire then maybe not..I would change the front and rear crank seals and core plugs and generally clean the internals as much as possible.
VHT paint should be fine as long as you use the VHT primer..
Nice one. The timing chain and gear was a question i asked when we were supercharging but there hadn't been that many reports of them disintegrating, However while its all off it might be something to consider.
Not sure about the rings etc.....If the engine was healthy and pulling good power with no smoke or mis-fire then maybe not..I would change the front and rear crank seals and core plugs and generally clean the internals as much as possible.
VHT paint should be fine as long as you use the VHT primer..
I would have said that the engine was very healthy before it was taken off the road with good power / compression figures.
However.. the last drive did end with an awful lot of white smoke from the rear of the car. Now, it is hard to tell exactly where this smoke was coming from - the exhausts which would suggest the piston rings or whether it was the rear seal failed and oil just hit the exhausts by the gearbox..
My educated guess would be it came from the rear seal failing but this is at best a very edjumacated guess.
By the crank seals, you mean the round rubber bungs - one at front sealing the crank pulley and the one at rear before the flywheel ? if so, these are being done.
The core plugs look to be ok.. how are they removed if I decide to change
I have got some VHT paint ( 280i colour with the VHT primer to suit.) so will most likely use that.
Morning all.
Sorry I havent updated this for a while, busy with work.
Well, its been a busy time on the engine rebuild and the finishing stages are starting to appear at the end of the tunnel - not there just yet but its all coming together.
Have shipped a few parts off to the powder coaters for them to work there magic..
2x rocker covers
the rocker cover fastening clips
timing cover
2x engine mounts
sump cover
inlet manifold
I did ask him about getting the exhaust manifold done but he advised not to..
Whilst they are at the powder coaters, I thought I'd start on removing the valves and cleaning the heads up a little.
taking the valve out, the oil seals are different between the inlet and exhaust valves - anybody know how the yellow seals in next pic acutally seal ? as they seemed to be quite loose.
Once all the valves had been removed, dicided to lap them to ensure all seating properly, had a friend over to help with this and he commented how good they were for an engine that had been sat idle for so long.
When the valve lapping had been finished, removed them and cleaned the heads up, spent about 1 hour per head to mask - onto the priming. Have used VHT primer here.
The finish of just the primer is really nice - looks so much better than the 'before' head.
Once dry, first coat of VHT satin black. This pic was taken as soon as first coat was applied, it has dryed to proper finish now, not gloss
I now have the 2nd head, water pump, engine block and all the ancillerys to mask, prime and paint before the parts arrive back from the powder coaters end of next week. busy few hours ahead me thinks.
Sorry I havent updated this for a while, busy with work.
Well, its been a busy time on the engine rebuild and the finishing stages are starting to appear at the end of the tunnel - not there just yet but its all coming together.
Have shipped a few parts off to the powder coaters for them to work there magic..
2x rocker covers
the rocker cover fastening clips
timing cover
2x engine mounts
sump cover
inlet manifold
I did ask him about getting the exhaust manifold done but he advised not to..
Whilst they are at the powder coaters, I thought I'd start on removing the valves and cleaning the heads up a little.
taking the valve out, the oil seals are different between the inlet and exhaust valves - anybody know how the yellow seals in next pic acutally seal ? as they seemed to be quite loose.
Once all the valves had been removed, dicided to lap them to ensure all seating properly, had a friend over to help with this and he commented how good they were for an engine that had been sat idle for so long.
When the valve lapping had been finished, removed them and cleaned the heads up, spent about 1 hour per head to mask - onto the priming. Have used VHT primer here.
The finish of just the primer is really nice - looks so much better than the 'before' head.
Once dry, first coat of VHT satin black. This pic was taken as soon as first coat was applied, it has dryed to proper finish now, not gloss
I now have the 2nd head, water pump, engine block and all the ancillerys to mask, prime and paint before the parts arrive back from the powder coaters end of next week. busy few hours ahead me thinks.
Wedg1e said:
Looks like you fitted new valves?
Morning Ian.Nope, original valves, just cleaned up. I was toying with the idea of getting new ones based on the look of them after removing the heads but after a bit of a clean, they came up rather well.
I was a little suprized the amount of oily fluff that had collected around the top of them by the collets but again, after this was cleaned off, they looked top notch.
Morning all.
Well, the engine is very nearly finished... spent last night fitting the inlet manifold and rocker covers.
Next jobs on the list are
1- getting the injectors looked at and then fit them.
2- get a new Thermostat and then fit that and the housing. ( what temp should i be looking for ?)
3- fit the plenum
4- get the AFM refurbed
5- get new water hoses - prob go for the same blue as engine - as it is samco hose blue
6- get the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated and fitted.
7- fit the dizzy
8- start on the rest of the car !!! haha.
Must say I'm rather happy with the look of the blue and black.. considering what it looked like at the start of the rebuild !!
Well, the engine is very nearly finished... spent last night fitting the inlet manifold and rocker covers.
Next jobs on the list are
1- getting the injectors looked at and then fit them.
2- get a new Thermostat and then fit that and the housing. ( what temp should i be looking for ?)
3- fit the plenum
4- get the AFM refurbed
5- get new water hoses - prob go for the same blue as engine - as it is samco hose blue
6- get the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated and fitted.
7- fit the dizzy
8- start on the rest of the car !!! haha.
Must say I'm rather happy with the look of the blue and black.. considering what it looked like at the start of the rebuild !!
Morning All.
Bit of a technical query guys.. hopefully someone will advise..
I have been in contact with a company in regards to getting the Fuel Distributor refurbed.
However, I am wondering whether or not it would be wise to get both the Warm up Regulator and Aux Vir Valve refurbed at the same time ?
Question really, how do the WUR and AAV work ? Are there components inside them that may have degraded over time? or are they just components that will work indefinately with a bit of a cleanup ?
Cheers All.
Dom
Bit of a technical query guys.. hopefully someone will advise..
I have been in contact with a company in regards to getting the Fuel Distributor refurbed.
However, I am wondering whether or not it would be wise to get both the Warm up Regulator and Aux Vir Valve refurbed at the same time ?
Question really, how do the WUR and AAV work ? Are there components inside them that may have degraded over time? or are they just components that will work indefinately with a bit of a cleanup ?
Cheers All.
Dom
Thanks TimLux, some good information there..
I have been talking with KMI - getting them to do the refurb so fingers crossed.
Now, Been thinking of getting the injectors refurbed as again, they have been sat idle for the time the 280i has been off the road..
There are a couple of companies within Bristol that refurb injectors.. I have been recommended to both of them from trusted sources. however, only one does petrol injectors.
Popped over there this morning with the 12 injectors ( now have 6 spare ) to get them done and was told, "oh I can't refurb that style injector"
He said something about not having the proper equipment to test my style injector.
Anyway, he offered to connect them to his flushing machine (my 6 original ones), just to see if they were stuck shut and they seemed to be fine - a nice even spray from the nozzles.
He commented that they looked fine and couldn't give any reason that they wouldnt be ok back on the car.
Should I still be thinking of getting them looked at by someone else? or just bite the bullet and buy new ?
Cheers All.
Dom
I have been talking with KMI - getting them to do the refurb so fingers crossed.
Now, Been thinking of getting the injectors refurbed as again, they have been sat idle for the time the 280i has been off the road..
There are a couple of companies within Bristol that refurb injectors.. I have been recommended to both of them from trusted sources. however, only one does petrol injectors.
Popped over there this morning with the 12 injectors ( now have 6 spare ) to get them done and was told, "oh I can't refurb that style injector"
He said something about not having the proper equipment to test my style injector.
Anyway, he offered to connect them to his flushing machine (my 6 original ones), just to see if they were stuck shut and they seemed to be fine - a nice even spray from the nozzles.
He commented that they looked fine and couldn't give any reason that they wouldnt be ok back on the car.
Should I still be thinking of getting them looked at by someone else? or just bite the bullet and buy new ?
Cheers All.
Dom
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