HELP! Has Anyone Got..
Discussion
I think a temporary solution will be to reinforce the bracket with a bit of alloy angle....
Unfortunaltely the threaded studs on the fixing plate have rusted through so that will need bodging as well.
Another little job for tomorrow on top of fixing the fuel line and trying to find out where the door seal is leaking. Good job i had noting better planned, like driving the s
dding thing 
Unfortunaltely the threaded studs on the fixing plate have rusted through so that will need bodging as well.
Another little job for tomorrow on top of fixing the fuel line and trying to find out where the door seal is leaking. Good job i had noting better planned, like driving the s
dding thing TVRleigh_BBWR said:
...I could also make some up if you want to send to me 1st to copy.
Thanks for the offer but for now I've had to bodge the old one. If you do make any please add me to the list.Not pretty...
But pretty effective...
It will do for now until the correct part turns up or until I (or Leigh) have time to fabricate a better one. To do the job properly, a replacement should spread the load more evenly on the inside of the glass and move the bracket a few mm inboard so it doesn't catch on the weather seal and lines up better with the lower bracket.
Another great example of TVR non-design, poorly thought out and crap materials. That's why we love 'em I suppose.
Edited by v8s4me on Sunday 26th February 11:47
It looks a bit better with this type of screw head...
Countersunk would be neater but the plates would have to be a lot thicker to avoid any contact with the glass. These tail-gates are too expensive to taking chances with. Ideally the inner plate with the strut locating bracket should cover the same area of glass as the outer one so as to spread the load evenly.
Countersunk would be neater but the plates would have to be a lot thicker to avoid any contact with the glass. These tail-gates are too expensive to taking chances with. Ideally the inner plate with the strut locating bracket should cover the same area of glass as the outer one so as to spread the load evenly.
Wedg1e said:
Hmmm, I'm sure I recall the plate having two captive studs and domed nuts being used inside the glass,....
That's the way it was manufactured but the studs were very thin (6mm?) and sheared off when I tried to undo the dome nut. Probably very poor quality material to start with which didn't help.I may have to dismantle it all again because I think swapping the bolts has caused it to leak again. I'll check in the morning and if I do have to take it apart I'll measure the hole in the glass.
No, this is exactly as it is. It is the inside bracket which would need to be moved inboard a bit to ease the clearance between the body of the bracket and the rubber seal. This is why I'm thinking an angle bracket would make a good starting point because it would allow the position of the screw holes to remain in the same place relative to the edge of the (interior) bracket whilst allowing the mounting point for the strut to be moved inboard.
I have spaced out the strut mounting stud with a couple of washers and this has made it a little bit easier to clip the socket of the strut in place. I've also chamfered the outer leading edge of the bracket in the hope that it will slide past the new seal without taking a lump out of it.
The other side is fine incidental. If you are going to have a go at this little problem then in/out adjustability is the key, remembering that the outside edge of the internal bracket needs to clear the seal. Tricky!
I have spaced out the strut mounting stud with a couple of washers and this has made it a little bit easier to clip the socket of the strut in place. I've also chamfered the outer leading edge of the bracket in the hope that it will slide past the new seal without taking a lump out of it.
The other side is fine incidental. If you are going to have a go at this little problem then in/out adjustability is the key, remembering that the outside edge of the internal bracket needs to clear the seal. Tricky!
21mm. Although my bodged one is now a little bit higher by the thickness of the angle bracket which is holding it together. I don't think the height is too critical so long as there is an adequate thickness of metal around the stud mounting hole.
Another option might be to make this part thinner and secure the stud in place with a nylock. Would this make it easier to fabricate?
Another option might be to make this part thinner and secure the stud in place with a nylock. Would this make it easier to fabricate?
RobXjcoupe said:
... Does the strut mounting simply nut and bolt through that dia 7 hole?
The 7mm hole is tapped and the strut mounting stud screws into it. I don't know what the thread is though, I can try a couple of nuts on it tomorrow. If the flange was thinner then the stud could be held in place with a nut.
The threaded section of the locating stud is 12mm long...
|http://thumbsnap.com/7H3aKQEa[/url]Here's another picture which might help..
[url]Most of today has been spent trying to get the lower mounting bracket off. What a way to build a car!
Don't rush on my account. I've got mine all back together and watertight so I'm not looking to take it apart again unless it fails a second time.
The centre of the 7mm hole is 12.5mm from the base of the bracket. Is that what you need to know? Although measuring the thread on the stud (rather than the ID of the hole) it comes up at 8mm. Looks like I may have measured incorrectly there; sorry.
Here's photo of the thread....
Looks like 18tpi, does that sound right?
The centre of the 7mm hole is 12.5mm from the base of the bracket. Is that what you need to know? Although measuring the thread on the stud (rather than the ID of the hole) it comes up at 8mm. Looks like I may have measured incorrectly there; sorry.
Here's photo of the thread....
Looks like 18tpi, does that sound right?
To try and cure a water leak I've ended up removing the lower strut mounting brackets as well. Another little bastrd of a job. The wonky studs have been re-bonded into the tailgate frame and the rusted through self tapper which screws down through the rain gutter is being replaced with stainless screws which will now run vertically through the mounting bracket (note new holes) so the whole thing can be bolted up tightly in the opposite direction to the main force on the bracket (note 1. to TVR, it's called "design" ) ....
I've also chamfered off the outer edges of the bracket so now they don't foul the struts. Standard on the left, modified on the right (note 2. to TVR, it's also called "design")
rd of a job. The wonky studs have been re-bonded into the tailgate frame and the rusted through self tapper which screws down through the rain gutter is being replaced with stainless screws which will now run vertically through the mounting bracket (note new holes) so the whole thing can be bolted up tightly in the opposite direction to the main force on the bracket (note 1. to TVR, it's called "design" ) ....I've also chamfered off the outer edges of the bracket so now they don't foul the struts. Standard on the left, modified on the right (note 2. to TVR, it's also called "design"
)If you're after roof stays would it be worth following this up? http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
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