Spare Crankshaft Spigot Bearing for Speed6 AJP8?

Spare Crankshaft Spigot Bearing for Speed6 AJP8?

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ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,175 posts

173 months

Saturday 16th July 2016
quotequote all
Anyone have one they are willing to sell that I could pick up today? Preferably near the M25...

Alternatively is this needle bearing used by any other make?

Thanks


ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,175 posts

173 months

Saturday 16th July 2016
quotequote all
Burton Power had the 21mm x 15mm bearing in stock - part no FP347.

However I have now hit a more intractable problem, all that remains of the old bearing which had imploded is the outer shell, which seems to have welded itself the the crank.

My bearing puller has broken trying to extract it, and trying to peen over the outer edge has proved impossible.

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,175 posts

173 months

Saturday 16th July 2016
quotequote all




Any suggestions very welcome.

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,175 posts

173 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
portzi said:
As alspeed suggests apply some controlled heat to the bearing, using a number 1 nozzle (smallest nozzle) with Oxy Acetelyne gentley heat bearing casing.
Thanks both. But as I have no experience with MIG or Oxy I think that would be too steep a learning curve (basically too dangerous) for me to try.

I could perhaps try a MAPP Torch, something like the Rothenberger Super Fire from ScrewFix, but that's another £85 I'd need to invest. Would that be worth trying in conjunction with some Wurth Frost Off to quench it?

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,175 posts

173 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
From what I can tell it will not be possible to pull the race out from behind. That is because there seems to be a ridge in the crank behind the race to prevent it from being pushed in too far. When a puller is used on an imploded bearing it simply removes the edge of the shell, leaving almost a smooth surface where the shell meets the ridge. Unfortunately that means the mep12345 tool from the other thread won't work.

So I think it has to be ground or slit, or removed using a welding technique (which is outside my skill set).

Grinding and slitting will inevitably cause some damage to the crank, but as long as that does not affect the new spigot bearing that may not matter too much.

Right now I'd happily pay someone to come over and make this issue go away - Happily. So if anyone has a proven technique to solve this and wants to earn some money, real money not just beer tokens, let me know. I'm based near the Ace Cafe in West London.

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,175 posts

173 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Home made "rawlbolt" bearing puller ................. clicky
Sadly not, as there's nothing for the puller to get behind. The only thing left is the outer shell, which is now flush with the indent in the crank.

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,175 posts

173 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
phillpot said:
It doesn't necessarily have to get behind, the Rawlbolt will expand and grip the remaining shell. the shell is hardened and can't expand, it'll work.....trust me wink
The friction between the Rawlbolt and the shell would have to be greater than between the shell and the crank, despite the much lower surface area and the 18 years of corrosion, so it seems very unlikely to me that it would work.

However, I am so desperate now that I will try anything, especially if you have your extractor available for loan. Please let me know.

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,175 posts

173 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
Jonbouy said:
Just run a seam of mig weld around the inside of the bearing race, it will pop straight out. I've done this a lot with she'll bearings.
Thanks, another vote for MIG, but is that really something I could do with no previous experience?

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,175 posts

173 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
Jonbouy said:
You could always try hydraulicing it out? Pack the hole with grease, find a punch that fits the hole perfectly, then wack the punch which will hope make the grease force the race out
I doubt that would work because there's no significant surface area for the hydraulic fluid to act upon. You use a small brake master piston to exert a large force on a large caliper piston area, but moving the caliper pistons a short distance. Here the master piston area would be much much greater than the tiny surface area of the bearing shell remnants, so the necessary leverage would be missing. If removing an intact roller bearing (rather than needle bearing) then the surface area ratios would mean much more leverage.

ukkid35

Original Poster:

6,175 posts

173 months

Wednesday 27th July 2016
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phillpot said:
Happy to lend it out, all I ask is you cover all postage costs. Can be in the post tomorrow if you let me have your address?
Huge thank you to phillpot, but first I tried a cheap eBay 'Blind Hole Inner Bearing Puller' and it worked eventually, wasn't quick or easy though. Nevertheless I was very grateful for the backup option that phillpot provided.