slowing rust in a non classic

slowing rust in a non classic

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Robert Elise

Original Poster:

956 posts

146 months

Wednesday 4th November 2015
quotequote all
searched a lot of posts but still a little confused on what actually works and where the easiest success can be achieved...

my 25 yr old Eunos is a stripped-out track dog, not a valuable classic. so naturally it doesn't deserve silly money/time invested in it. OTOH, it has plenty of investment in it (seats, suspension, brakes etc) so a sub-1k car is worth more like 3k to replace. I want to slow down the inevitable tin worm down, not sand back and defeat it. I'm more concerned about chassis, suspension mounts rather that a pretty body. The POR15 solutions require thorough preparation and provide top quality results, which is not my requirement.

My thoughts are a rust converter coating underneath and cavity wax in sills. Either BH Hydrate80 or Dinitrol RC800.
I wonder whether a regular spray of ACF50 would suit my needs.
Any advice?
would you bother waxing afterwards?

Robert Elise

Original Poster:

956 posts

146 months

Friday 6th November 2015
quotequote all
tonymor said:
I've just bought a 1997 mk 1 mx 5 and it has rust bubbles on the rear wheel arches. Usual it seems . I'm looking for the best d I y rust treatment to use before re spray.
Any have used advice?
you need to have a good look at the car, it could well be much more than the arches. Sills rot from inside.
Plenty of full rust treatment threads on here and MX5Nutz.

My particular nuance was not to fully treat the car (many threads on this) but what is an easy hit to slow the rot.
it's a £700 shell carrying track parts that can be transferred to the next car when this dies.

i'm now thinking of applying H80 and then quickly applying a diluted wax so that it's thin and runs. The issue with thick wax is that it may last longer but it just incubates the rust underneath.

Robert Elise

Original Poster:

956 posts

146 months

Sunday 8th November 2015
quotequote all
i'm coming to the view that a rust converter then a thin underseal (waxoyl + white spirit or Dinitrol) is a good call.
My reservation about wax was that it just seals in the rust while it gets worse. So yes - follow the instructions, get it warm and thin it so it can seep in easily.
even if there's still rust there, a well thinned solution will fill the gap and keep out air and moisture.