HID headlight upgrade on 111R... fitting guide & comparisons
Discussion
Presenting the latest in a series of ‘Janitor Guides!’… 
…nah, I’ve just stuck some new lights in!
Many thanks to Muncher for flagging up some remaining units from the recent HID group buy opportunity. “I’ll have some of that!”
Firstly, after getting a Lotus, I was a little surprised at how owners commented on the standard lighting kit as ‘candles’ - I always thought the headlights were fine to be honest… but then it dawned on me that my MY06 111R SportsRacer has the additional driving lights on full beam!
It has also struck me of late however that dipped was less than, well, enlightening. So following Mucher’s greatly appreciated quick turn around from payment to doormat, I’ve now done the install
The exact brand I don’t have a clue on, I just know they were imported, but Muncher may have more detail on that should anyone require. I also followed Bogie’s top tip of getting some LED replacement sidelight bulbs whilst I was at it – I’m well pleased with how they look actually!
(He has also done the main-beam conversion as well! 
)
Ok, on to the job. Apologies to those who are already well versed in the flesh and bones of an Elise as this is a pretty detailed affair starting from the basics for those like me who’ve never been in there before! Like my 2bular Exhaust guide, this may hopefully help a few owners save some bucks via DIY route
The 1st step is to remove the front wheels – clear and easy access is the only way to go. Observe recommended jacking points and safety here. Once wheels are removed, start on the front section of the wheel arch liner. I’m not personally familiar with fixings and methods before the MY06 models, but I think they may differ slightly
(1) remove top screw. (2) remove lower screws and withdraw ‘expanding plug’ type housings. (3) ease liner out from the bottom whilst siding downwards to free the joining support plate between the two liner sections. (4) exposed light housing & fixings:
Remove the allen-key headed bolts (Lotus kindly supply the correct size in the tool pouch
) (1) (2) & (3):
Carefully ease the glass cover forward and store safely and out of windy area to avoid dust ingress
Exposed lights:
Unplug, unclip and remove the existing dipped headlight bulb and install the HID bulb. I chose to do this first of all so that it’s safely stowed and kept clean whilst you’re sorting the cabling. Due to the lack of easy access, placing the HID tube into the holder is difficult, but be patient and avoid touching the bulb itself with fingers. (It can be cleaned with alcohol & lint-free cloth if accidental contact is made)
Note how the lugs on the bulb base locate in designated positions on the housing:
Next up, poke through the rubber grommet from inside (1) and trim the inner edge a little (2) to free things up a little for when it comes to pushing the HID bulb cable connectors through. Take much care here – don’t cut the cables or yourself and remember that your precious paintwork is barely a couple of inches away!
Thread all the appropriate connectors through the grommet (1) and refitting the grommet is best done by poking the whole thing through the hole in the clam and manipulating back into place from the inside of the arch. Attach the HID unit feeds to the original headlight bulb connectors (2) and tape them up for insulation and a little extra mechanical fastening (3). Tuck excess cable neatly away under the cable entry point away from the bulb housing and the hole for the glass fixing bolt (4)
(Note that the grommet supplied on the replacement HID bulb cables is not needed in this case. Either remove or carefully slide it up to the existing entry grommet as an extra drip-break)
New cables & connectors viewed from inside the arch:
Take this opportunity to connect the HID feeds or ‘ballasts’ and run a quick power-up test – there is really only one way this kit can go together (unless you’re trying really hard!) and it beats stripping everything apart again afterwards should something not be quite right!
Being unsure exactly what is what under there, I found it tricky to locate a safe & secure place into which I felt confident of tapping screws for mounting the ballasts. There are twin oil-coolers on the SportsRacer and not knowing what was behind any other panels, I elected to utilise the supplied bracket…
…and then a ‘known’ fixing. One 10mm socket later and all was firmly attached to one of the light unit mount bolts (not the glass securing bolts!). This is ideal as it is away from all other components and pipes etc whilst not interfering when arch liner is refitted:
Replacing the sidelight bulbs is dead simple. The holder is fixed into the top side of the main beam light housing and you simply turn the sidelight bulb holder through 90 degrees, substitute the standard bulb with a direct LED replacement and refit
The following pictures show direct comparison taken in identical light with a flash. (The original lights on left, HID & LEDs on right)
Sidelights:
Dipped headlights:
Main Beam:
As for on the road..? Haven’t tried it as yet! …but one thing I do know is that the HIDs do NOT interfere with the radio as much rumoured… well, not on FM anyway. MW is lost with the headlights on but that always goes when the LED brake lights come on anyway! (I believe there is a fix for that though and it may cure all..?) I’m not sure whether it’s of any relevance but bear in mind that this is on an MY06 with a JVC Stereo and not the original DAB54
One final thought - I seem to recall that the headlight fuse needs upgrading from 10A to 15A..? As the HIDs actually draw less power, I wonder whether this is indeed the case. All input appreciated
UPDATE: Headlight fuses now uprated to 20A per side. Fuses under passenger side bonnet panel
…nah, I’ve just stuck some new lights in! Many thanks to Muncher for flagging up some remaining units from the recent HID group buy opportunity. “I’ll have some of that!”
Firstly, after getting a Lotus, I was a little surprised at how owners commented on the standard lighting kit as ‘candles’ - I always thought the headlights were fine to be honest… but then it dawned on me that my MY06 111R SportsRacer has the additional driving lights on full beam!
It has also struck me of late however that dipped was less than, well, enlightening. So following Mucher’s greatly appreciated quick turn around from payment to doormat, I’ve now done the install The exact brand I don’t have a clue on, I just know they were imported, but Muncher may have more detail on that should anyone require. I also followed Bogie’s top tip of getting some LED replacement sidelight bulbs whilst I was at it – I’m well pleased with how they look actually!
(He has also done the main-beam conversion as well! ) Ok, on to the job. Apologies to those who are already well versed in the flesh and bones of an Elise as this is a pretty detailed affair starting from the basics for those like me who’ve never been in there before! Like my 2bular Exhaust guide, this may hopefully help a few owners save some bucks via DIY route
The 1st step is to remove the front wheels – clear and easy access is the only way to go. Observe recommended jacking points and safety here. Once wheels are removed, start on the front section of the wheel arch liner. I’m not personally familiar with fixings and methods before the MY06 models, but I think they may differ slightly
(1) remove top screw. (2) remove lower screws and withdraw ‘expanding plug’ type housings. (3) ease liner out from the bottom whilst siding downwards to free the joining support plate between the two liner sections. (4) exposed light housing & fixings:
Remove the allen-key headed bolts (Lotus kindly supply the correct size in the tool pouch
) (1) (2) & (3): Carefully ease the glass cover forward and store safely and out of windy area to avoid dust ingress
Exposed lights:
Unplug, unclip and remove the existing dipped headlight bulb and install the HID bulb. I chose to do this first of all so that it’s safely stowed and kept clean whilst you’re sorting the cabling. Due to the lack of easy access, placing the HID tube into the holder is difficult, but be patient and avoid touching the bulb itself with fingers. (It can be cleaned with alcohol & lint-free cloth if accidental contact is made)
Note how the lugs on the bulb base locate in designated positions on the housing:
Next up, poke through the rubber grommet from inside (1) and trim the inner edge a little (2) to free things up a little for when it comes to pushing the HID bulb cable connectors through. Take much care here – don’t cut the cables or yourself and remember that your precious paintwork is barely a couple of inches away!
Thread all the appropriate connectors through the grommet (1) and refitting the grommet is best done by poking the whole thing through the hole in the clam and manipulating back into place from the inside of the arch. Attach the HID unit feeds to the original headlight bulb connectors (2) and tape them up for insulation and a little extra mechanical fastening (3). Tuck excess cable neatly away under the cable entry point away from the bulb housing and the hole for the glass fixing bolt (4)
(Note that the grommet supplied on the replacement HID bulb cables is not needed in this case. Either remove or carefully slide it up to the existing entry grommet as an extra drip-break)
New cables & connectors viewed from inside the arch:
Take this opportunity to connect the HID feeds or ‘ballasts’ and run a quick power-up test – there is really only one way this kit can go together (unless you’re trying really hard!) and it beats stripping everything apart again afterwards should something not be quite right!
Being unsure exactly what is what under there, I found it tricky to locate a safe & secure place into which I felt confident of tapping screws for mounting the ballasts. There are twin oil-coolers on the SportsRacer and not knowing what was behind any other panels, I elected to utilise the supplied bracket…
…and then a ‘known’ fixing. One 10mm socket later and all was firmly attached to one of the light unit mount bolts (not the glass securing bolts!). This is ideal as it is away from all other components and pipes etc whilst not interfering when arch liner is refitted:
Replacing the sidelight bulbs is dead simple. The holder is fixed into the top side of the main beam light housing and you simply turn the sidelight bulb holder through 90 degrees, substitute the standard bulb with a direct LED replacement and refit
The following pictures show direct comparison taken in identical light with a flash. (The original lights on left, HID & LEDs on right)
Sidelights:
Dipped headlights:
Main Beam:
As for on the road..? Haven’t tried it as yet!
…but one thing I do know is that the HIDs do NOT interfere with the radio as much rumoured… well, not on FM anyway. MW is lost with the headlights on but that always goes when the LED brake lights come on anyway! (I believe there is a fix for that though and it may cure all..?) I’m not sure whether it’s of any relevance but bear in mind that this is on an MY06 with a JVC Stereo and not the original DAB54 One final thought - I seem to recall that the headlight fuse needs upgrading from 10A to 15A..? As the HIDs actually draw less power, I wonder whether this is indeed the case. All input appreciated
UPDATE: Headlight fuses now uprated to 20A per side. Fuses under passenger side bonnet panel
Edited by Janitor on Thursday 14th September 20:07
These will be the LEDs you want:
www.ultraleds.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=525
Remember that they are polarity dependant unlike standard bulbs - if they don't work when fitted, simply remove, turn over and refit Test this before putting everything back together again though!
www.ultraleds.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=525
Remember that they are polarity dependant unlike standard bulbs - if they don't work when fitted, simply remove, turn over and refit
Test this before putting everything back together again though!S Works said:
How are you finding them now you've had them on there for a week or so Clive?
P.S. Love your 'how-to' guides, but at the same time am beginning to wish I lived closer to you... I'm such a numptie with the tools that I'm petrified even of trying to change the blown headlamp bulb on my front drivers-side lamp, I think it's going to have to wait until I get something done at the garage
P.S. Love your 'how-to' guides, but at the same time am beginning to wish I lived closer to you... I'm such a numptie with the tools that I'm petrified even of trying to change the blown headlamp bulb on my front drivers-side lamp, I think it's going to have to wait until I get something done at the garage
Hey Tim!
(Nice piccy of you & car with 3/4 plate on SELOC ) Ta for the comment
...of course to some people the guides are a little 'Granny, eggs and sucking' but as much as anything, I think they may help give people a little more prior insight into what's involved when considering whether or not to take something on themselves as opposed to pay dealer to do the same As for what I make of the HIDs - funny you should ask actually... There's no doubt that illumination has improved - no question at all. There are some slightly odd elements of the beam / coverage though. My biggest question to myself at this point however, is would I have taken notice of them had I not read the points in the article link that somebody posted on the 'HID group buy' thread..?
The info in that article says how the resultant beam from an HID source forms differently to that of a standard Halogen bulb, producing a less evenly spread / consistent beam. I can definitely notice a small 'hollow' area on the road in front in line with the right hand edge of the car (drivers side) - but would I have thought twice about it before reading that additional info? Maybe, maybe not!
I am convinced however that further adjustment is needed. The light is concentrated very hard immediately in front with not much distance to dipped beam. Of course adjusting things too high is a complete no no, but it's very apparent that there is room to extend my viewing distance without having the lights anywhere near boot level of a car immediately in front - let alone coming close to blinding every poor sod I approach or pull up behind!
There are adjustments that can be made to the actual beam pattern on the Elise also - as shown here: www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/experience/maintenance/adjustheadlamps/adjustheadlamps.html I will be looking into that and again, I'm confident that the right set up can be achieved
In summary then - a clear improvement but some tweaking is needed to gain full benefit yet
Edited by Janitor on Monday 18th September 17:48
MW/AM is non-existent... but then again always was when the rear LEDs come to life!Gassing Station | Elise/Exige/Europa/340R | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff