Mating a TKO gearbox to RV8

Mating a TKO gearbox to RV8

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macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Saturday 25th October 2014
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As per title, has anyone done this? Main problem I'm thinking [besides bellhousing] is the fact that the input shaft on a TKO is 26 spline whereas the T5 box is a 23 spline. Has anyone done this change or seen it being done somewhere?
Cheers, Mac.

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Saturday 25th October 2014
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Thanks Darren, have PM'd thumbup
anyone else? ears

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Tuesday 28th October 2014
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NTEL said:
YHM
Replied, and thank you.
thumbup

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Wednesday 5th November 2014
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Had some excellent info' from 'NTEL' thumbup
however, I seem to be drawing a blank on something and wondered if anyone could help further.
Neither 'roadcraft' nor 'je engineering' offer a bellhousing or adaptor plate for this conversion, anyone know whom else I may try?

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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Cheers guys, appreciate any help. I'm sure it will fit as we managed to drop Neal1980's LS and TKO660 [6-speed] in without issue.
Rakeway, cool, someone else gave me their number and I had a chat with them. Very helpful and can cut'n shut my bellhousing. Also, told me I need the Ford input shaft as opposed to GM. Seem nice guy and I shall be taking the old T5 out shortly to commence.

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Saturday 29th November 2014
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77racing said:
I have just been told by the engineer who fettles car 77 that you don't need an adapter plate from rover to T5 bell housing. Two holes line up on the T5 - TKO and there is enough meat to drill and tap the bell housing as required.
Really appreciate your help [and anyones] on this. That is very interesting as it's got me thinking as to why an adaptor plate or cut/shut used, maybe input shaft lengths as TKO600 can come with differing shafts. Do you know what input shaft was used? GM or Ford? I ask as with some LS installs I've been told a Ford input shaft is used for the shorter length.

Edited by macdeb on Saturday 29th November 23:00

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Saturday 29th November 2014
quotequote all
DonkeyApple said:
Can also talk to Neil at Rakeway. They can fit the TKO to anything and I would be surprised if they don't have off the shelf solutions for the RV8.
Thanks, it was Rakeway who said they could cut/shut bellhousing to suit and also commented on the Ford input shaft.
I have the feeling a few other parties may be looking at this conversion too.

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Sunday 30th November 2014
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77racing said:
I used the chevy long shaft on my car but you are now getting conflicting advise so I will shut up now. Just to say that I use a roller bearing spigit where as dave went down the bronze bush route which I believe gave him trouble
Hiya, please don't shut up as any knowledge is gratefully accepted. Dave did say of his problem with the bush being made too snug a fit.

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Tuesday 6th January 2015
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Well, I got myself a TKO 600 gearbox from 'Spartridge' [cheers bloke] and picked it up from Topcats Racing. By the way, nice set up down there VERY impressive and Warren and the guys were very helpful. Dropped off my RV8 bellhousing at 'Rakeway' yesterday who are modifying it for me to take the TKO [Neal there is another of helpful guy with plenty of time to talk to you which is nice] along with fitting a concentric release bearing. Just have to decide on which clutch to use as my new AP single plate has held up so far but, do I go twin plate now or later scratchchin Today I ordered a mid-shifter kit from the States to bring gearchange in same position in the car as the old T5. I did notice that 'Real Steel' used to make a bellhousing for the RV8/TKO but no longer do so banghead
I'll keep thread updated in case anyone else finds it useful if they're considering the same in the future.

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Monday 12th January 2015
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SILICONEKID345HP said:
How much is the whole project going to cost ? How do the ratios compare .
Daz, around £3k. new twin plate clutch, new steel flywheel, machining bellhousing, centre slave, spiogot bearing, balancing and used low mileage gearbox.
Ratios are similar to T5 at;
2.87=1st
1.89=2nd
1.28=3rd
1.0=4th
0.82=5th
There is an option for a 0,64 = 5th gear but that for me would be a too wider gap between 4th and 5th.
A Quaiffe conversion with shot-peening etc was going to cost around £2.2 [without new clutch and flywheel] and then it would be at it's limit. So I shouldn't be left at the roadside with a box full of broken cogs wink
EFA and slight change for centre slave cylinder.



Edited by macdeb on Tuesday 13th January 21:36


Edited by macdeb on Thursday 22 January 20:30

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Monday 12th January 2015
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77racing said:
Mac
I have this infront of mine, spins up like a motorcycle evil............................



I have a steel flywheel and a single plate racing AP clutch plate and cover spare in the garage if any use, although you might need some think a bit beefier with all that lovely torque you have. Don't forget you will need to fabricate a new rear box mount and a new prop shaft as yours won't be long enough.



Edited by 77racing on Monday 12th January 21:13
lick That looks so cool, shame to cover it up! Thanks for the offer, I would've had the flywheel for sure if I had known earlier banghead Ordered steel flywheel and McCleod RST 10.5" twin plate clutch this morning. Just gotta get 'em all balanced now, then offer up, then measure for propshaft and new gearbox mount. thumbup


Edited by macdeb on Monday 12th January 23:21

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Wednesday 21st January 2015
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SILICONEKID345HP said:
Do you have to change the flywheel when changing the gearbox ?
No, I chose to as it comes with the drillings for my new twin plate clutch which made life easier, and it's an upgrade because it's stronger than OE wink

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Thursday 22nd January 2015
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domV8 said:
I have thought about changing up to a lightweight steel flywheel - but do you not have to remove the engine, disassemble and get the new flywheel balanced with the crank/etc/etc as a single rotating mass..?

Or is there a way to swap flywheels and have a properly balanced end result without having to take the engine out/apart..?
Hi Dom, a 4.6 built by Dom [TVR Power] bow I would guess it's been balanced though best ask or should be on spec' sheet. All things considered, you can change flywheel with engine in situ and have the balancing matched to the existing if your not sure.


Edited by macdeb on Thursday 22 January 20:58

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Friday 23rd January 2015
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domV8 said:
Hi Mac,

I was very specific at rebuild time about the importance of balancing, as the point of the rebuild/new heads was to extend the usable rev range - so wanted something that was well balanced as it would regularly see 6500rpm...

So any changes would have to retain this level of balancing - can crank assemblies balanced while still within the engine, be balanced to the same tolerances as "standard" balancing where the crank assembly has been removed from the engine..? ie. is the level of balancing achieved comparable to standard balancing processes?

Thanks,


Dom
Hi Dom,
Internal balancing has to be best if you think about it, having all the pistons/rods weighing exactly the same, then crank balance, then flywheel and clutch pressure plate, front pulleys. That's how mine was done.
I would think you need to ascertain if the crank was balanced independent. Though from what Carsy says that's doubtful, but like I say I'd ask. But you can have the new flywheel matched to the balancing of the old. Ask 'Brummie' on here as I recall that's what he had to have done for his LS.


Edited by macdeb on Friday 23 January 14:33

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Monday 9th February 2015
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SILICONEKID345HP said:
I had my pistons weighed and drilled also con rods ,then the crank balanced , 7lbs off the flywheel.

I saw the crank on the machine being spun ,with i think the flywheel and clutch on the end .

The whole lot cost me £75 ,my little 1860 mgb engine spun past 6500 rpm .

You can`t beat those little old engineering works and someone who looks like a geriatric doing the magic for you ..cool

Farndon Motors ,absolutely brilliant .

Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Sunday 8th February 20:26
yes
MJA automotive engineering in Bromsgrove here. Was abit more expensive than that but great job done and best money spent IMO thumbup


macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Wednesday 18th February 2015
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Update; After waiting, and waiting, 3 journeys [to Cheadle] covering 480 miles and 3 days from work, being told next week, next week, next week and after nearly two months from start got my stuff back. [shame, seemed a nice bunch but my requirements were way down on the list it seems, not so important to them but very important to me] Can't live on maybe and could still be waiting now.
Spoke to an old mate [Craig @ Dyno-torque] who I should've gone to first banghead but didn't think, and he started straight away.
Thanks to guys who PM'd me with ideas and information as it was very helpful, I'll keep updating for anyone who may be thinking of the same conversion. [there are some high power RV8's coming out there]
Anyone thinking of LS conversions should pop in to Craigs, besides his 1017bhp [yes, 1017] twin turbo LS 6.9 RX7 he is doing many others at the moment and they look awesome bow

Edited by macdeb on Wednesday 18th February 16:44


Edited by macdeb on Sunday 15th March 17:44

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Thursday 19th February 2015
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Dropped it off at Craigs Tuesday, got it back today wink

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Tuesday 24th February 2015
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Right, almost there for those interested. Bellhousing as it turns out was the easy bit banghead
Been working on clutch arrangement and want to continue with an external slave cylinder, I know internal are in vogue at the moment but seals do fail and that's a gearbox out job. Just doesn't make sense to me.
Working out clearance for release bearing, bearing carrier, and spigot bearing. I have lot's of measurements that I'll try and make a diagram of and post up just in case someone may want to follow the same route. ie; RV8/TKO600/twin plate clutch/external slave. Don't get me wrong as I like the T5 and TVR's are light, but it can only do so much.

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Tuesday 24th February 2015
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Hi Mate, long time no speak.
Yeah, seen them and probably [read definately] an easier job. Neal has one with an external bleed point, but as I said they do fail for one reason or another, and as a born worrier I just feel better having something I could fix more easily if I had to. beer
You know as I do, if everything was that easy, everyone would do it.


Edited by macdeb on Tuesday 24th February 22:49


Edited by macdeb on Tuesday 24th February 22:52

macdeb

Original Poster:

8,511 posts

255 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
Hiya mate and thanks, that's what I had done in the end after your PM. Only took 2 days too banghead Hoping to try it out at the weekend, just waiting on modded prop-shaft.