Respray of a die-cast model
Discussion
I've got an old Burago model I'd like to freshen up and spray it a different colour.
I've stripped it down to this point:
What's the best way to proceed, just spray over the exisiting colour or strip it back to the metal and repaint? If it needs to be stripped, what should I use?
Also, can I reuse the existing transfers for the badges or will removing them render them useless? If so, can I get replacements?
Thanks
I've stripped it down to this point:
What's the best way to proceed, just spray over the exisiting colour or strip it back to the metal and repaint? If it needs to be stripped, what should I use?
Also, can I reuse the existing transfers for the badges or will removing them render them useless? If so, can I get replacements?
Thanks
The quality of the shell is actually better than I thought it would be but I'm not sure it's buffable 
Primer is easy to come by obviously - even cans on eBay for 4 quid delivered. Not sure what trade price will be at Halfords. TdF appears to be somewhat more difficult. I think Halfords will mix me a small aerosol can for not very much so I'll try that in the week.
Primer is easy to come by obviously - even cans on eBay for 4 quid delivered. Not sure what trade price will be at Halfords. TdF appears to be somewhat more difficult. I think Halfords will mix me a small aerosol can for not very much so I'll try that in the week.
Thread resurrection ahoy.
For a number of reasons I'd dropped this for a while. Got the shell primed up and bought some generic dark blue off eBay to spray it up having been quoted 15 quid for pukka TdF.....
The generic dark blue is guff.
Any of you keener modellers know where I can cross match a more readily available manufacturer's dark blue against Ferrari's TdF. Trade price on a can of generic (insert mass producing manufacturer here) paint is only a few quid. 15 quid on TdF is a bit extreme given the value of the model is probably less than that!
For a number of reasons I'd dropped this for a while. Got the shell primed up and bought some generic dark blue off eBay to spray it up having been quoted 15 quid for pukka TdF.....
The generic dark blue is guff.
Any of you keener modellers know where I can cross match a more readily available manufacturer's dark blue against Ferrari's TdF. Trade price on a can of generic (insert mass producing manufacturer here) paint is only a few quid. 15 quid on TdF is a bit extreme given the value of the model is probably less than that!
The answer was staring me, almost literally, in the face. BMW montreal blue.
Not delighted with my paint work, needs a little polish to bring it to its best I think. Too much paint on there, too.
Can anyone suggest where I can get a sheet of 1/18 Ferrari transfers/decals for road cars please?
Not delighted with my paint work, needs a little polish to bring it to its best I think. Too much paint on there, too.
Can anyone suggest where I can get a sheet of 1/18 Ferrari transfers/decals for road cars please?
Going to try and take the original Motor Max model which looks like this:
And make it look like this:
Actually quite impressed by the Motor Max, which I picked up at a boot sale. It's well put together and, unlike the Kyosho models, the ride height is almost right. It also has springs in the "suspension" which I'll be able to trim to lower the car to a realistic height. Only Autoart have ever got that aspect of the NSX right on their models.
And make it look like this:
Actually quite impressed by the Motor Max, which I picked up at a boot sale. It's well put together and, unlike the Kyosho models, the ride height is almost right. It also has springs in the "suspension" which I'll be able to trim to lower the car to a realistic height. Only Autoart have ever got that aspect of the NSX right on their models.
Got the model stripped down. A couple of stubborn bits required patient removal where rivets had been rounded off over plastics but it wasn't so bad.
So, equipped with B&Q's finest paint stripper and a Tesco basics roasting tin, the stripping will begin. Long Beach Blue isn't available off the shelf and a custom mixed tin is nearly 20 quid, which is hard to justify so I stood in front of the paint rack in Halfords, phone in hand, and googled images of each similar blue in turn until I got close-ish to the image of the NSX I had for comparison.
I've got some filler in the garage. Probably a decade old but it may still be useful, fingers crossed.
So, equipped with B&Q's finest paint stripper and a Tesco basics roasting tin, the stripping will begin. Long Beach Blue isn't available off the shelf and a custom mixed tin is nearly 20 quid, which is hard to justify so I stood in front of the paint rack in Halfords, phone in hand, and googled images of each similar blue in turn until I got close-ish to the image of the NSX I had for comparison.
I've got some filler in the garage. Probably a decade old but it may still be useful, fingers crossed.
From tear down, to strip down. Using aforementioned B&Q paint stripper was a longer job than old-school Nitromors. It says much that the latter came packaged with warnings akin to weapons grade uranium, the former by all accounts is practically safe to bathe in.
However, after much dipping, scraping washing and sanding, the job was done.
I bought some P38 to fill the side marker recesses and also had a go at filling gaping chasms between the door and the wing mirror.
All looked OK until I got the primer on it, which revealed a few imperfections and bubbles in the filler and also that it wasn't as good a job as I'd have liked. I looked at it and pondered just cracking on. Then I thought, what would the Dr do? (Chuck it in a bucket of brake fluid and start again!). I decided on a half-way house and stripped back the primer and smoothed over the filler before priming the affected sites again (3 of the 4).
Primed, wet sanded and dried, I then applied a thin coat of the final colour. Long Beach Blue isn't available off the shelf. £20 for a specific mixed batch is too much, so I've got a Nissan
Met Blue. It's going to take several coats to get the depth in the colour though it's not as washed out as it looks here. Hopefully, i'll be able to do it whilst retaining the detail in the casting, which is pretty decent to be fair.
A few coats to finish the colour, a few careful mods to colour the badge and a couple of details then I'll need to figure out how to do the black spoiler on the front bumper, plus the intakes.
However, after much dipping, scraping washing and sanding, the job was done.
I bought some P38 to fill the side marker recesses and also had a go at filling gaping chasms between the door and the wing mirror.
All looked OK until I got the primer on it, which revealed a few imperfections and bubbles in the filler and also that it wasn't as good a job as I'd have liked. I looked at it and pondered just cracking on. Then I thought, what would the Dr do? (Chuck it in a bucket of brake fluid and start again!). I decided on a half-way house and stripped back the primer and smoothed over the filler before priming the affected sites again (3 of the 4).
Primed, wet sanded and dried, I then applied a thin coat of the final colour. Long Beach Blue isn't available off the shelf. £20 for a specific mixed batch is too much, so I've got a Nissan
Met Blue. It's going to take several coats to get the depth in the colour though it's not as washed out as it looks here. Hopefully, i'll be able to do it whilst retaining the detail in the casting, which is pretty decent to be fair.
A few coats to finish the colour, a few careful mods to colour the badge and a couple of details then I'll need to figure out how to do the black spoiler on the front bumper, plus the intakes.
Edited by ferrisbueller on Wednesday 27th April 23:40
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