Airfix 1:72 Me109E-3 Starter Kit
Discussion
I think dr_gn did the test build for this. Here's my attempt:
First point is that it went together really well, but I'm not sure I'd give it as a first kit since there are a lot of very small and delicate parts (aerial, pitot tube, counterbalances, rudder pedals) that would end up snapped in short order. In the end I didn't fit the pitot tube or the aileron counter balances, as the model will be part of a WW2 exhibit at a school, but did add brake lines to the undercarriage. It does however, boast positionable rudder, flaps, and engine cover along with a three piece posable canopy that would give options similar to a 1:48 from not too long ago.
Talking of the pitot tube, the instructions have the fitting prior to placing the decals. This makes fitting the Luftwaffe cross on the underside of the starboard wing very awkward, as it covers the hole, so I would recommend leaving the pitot tube to last so the decal can be placed easily (and also reducing snap-off opportunities for fumbling fingers).
The only fit issue, similar to that reported by dr_gn is the fuselage to wing assembly. The wings have to be aligned precisely to ensure the wheel bays line up, but without trimming the cockpit tub, the fuselage is too wide to fit in the slot. [NOTE: When dry fitting, it goes in the slot just dandy until the cockpit tub is fitted as this splays the bottom just enough to prevent the wings fitting.] A simple shave of the cockpit tub allows the fit - but you must do this before gluing the fuselage assembly together, otherwise it will be a much trickier job.
I didn't use the supplied paints as my first attempt to open one resulted in green hands. Another note if a younger modeller's present - open the paint for him/her, and well away from the model.
Anyhow, onto the gratuitous photos:
1. Checking the fit (thanks dr_gn for highlighting this as a potential issue):
2. Cockpit close ups:
3. Pale blue base coat over pre-shading (As an experiment, I tried painting prior to final assembly for simpler masking):
4. Final reveal:
First point is that it went together really well, but I'm not sure I'd give it as a first kit since there are a lot of very small and delicate parts (aerial, pitot tube, counterbalances, rudder pedals) that would end up snapped in short order. In the end I didn't fit the pitot tube or the aileron counter balances, as the model will be part of a WW2 exhibit at a school, but did add brake lines to the undercarriage. It does however, boast positionable rudder, flaps, and engine cover along with a three piece posable canopy that would give options similar to a 1:48 from not too long ago.
Talking of the pitot tube, the instructions have the fitting prior to placing the decals. This makes fitting the Luftwaffe cross on the underside of the starboard wing very awkward, as it covers the hole, so I would recommend leaving the pitot tube to last so the decal can be placed easily (and also reducing snap-off opportunities for fumbling fingers).
The only fit issue, similar to that reported by dr_gn is the fuselage to wing assembly. The wings have to be aligned precisely to ensure the wheel bays line up, but without trimming the cockpit tub, the fuselage is too wide to fit in the slot. [NOTE: When dry fitting, it goes in the slot just dandy until the cockpit tub is fitted as this splays the bottom just enough to prevent the wings fitting.] A simple shave of the cockpit tub allows the fit - but you must do this before gluing the fuselage assembly together, otherwise it will be a much trickier job.
I didn't use the supplied paints as my first attempt to open one resulted in green hands. Another note if a younger modeller's present - open the paint for him/her, and well away from the model.
Anyhow, onto the gratuitous photos:
1. Checking the fit (thanks dr_gn for highlighting this as a potential issue):
2. Cockpit close ups:
3. Pale blue base coat over pre-shading (As an experiment, I tried painting prior to final assembly for simpler masking):
4. Final reveal:
Hi Eric, That matches my thoughts too, a lovely kit but somewhat delicate for a starter.
I was surprised at the flexibility of the kit given it was an entry level Starter Kit complete with custard pots (though, after the first one opened up rather enthusiastically all over my hand, I stuck with Vallejo's nice and easy dropper bottles).
Glues were Revell's Contacta Liquid, and Humbrol's Clear Fix for the canopy. And I use a nail pad from Boots - it's a 1"x1"x4" foam block with four grades of abrasive, one on each long side; old ones are useful for holding components on cocktail sticks steady.
Primers were Citadel's Incubi Darkness, a dark green/turquoise; I used this for the interior, wheel bays and canopy before the RLM70 (dark green) top coat. It meant the canopy was green on the inside without my having to mask that too. And Model Mates's Matt Light Grey for the general exterior.
Paints are Vallejo Model Air through an Aztek airbrush (retarder medium is essential), Klear coated and then washed using Winsor & Newton 'Cotman' water colours (8ml finger size tubes that are about £2.50 each) before a final clear and then VMA matt vanish. The washes remain water soluble for hours, which is an advantage for rework and blending (I used raw umber and sepia - the burnt umber is good too as it has a red tint) but you have to Klear them to fix the effect (use an airbrush - a brush just wipes it away). I have an old brush I cut at 45' to create stipple patterns.
I was surprised at the flexibility of the kit given it was an entry level Starter Kit complete with custard pots (though, after the first one opened up rather enthusiastically all over my hand, I stuck with Vallejo's nice and easy dropper bottles).
Glues were Revell's Contacta Liquid, and Humbrol's Clear Fix for the canopy. And I use a nail pad from Boots - it's a 1"x1"x4" foam block with four grades of abrasive, one on each long side; old ones are useful for holding components on cocktail sticks steady.
Primers were Citadel's Incubi Darkness, a dark green/turquoise; I used this for the interior, wheel bays and canopy before the RLM70 (dark green) top coat. It meant the canopy was green on the inside without my having to mask that too. And Model Mates's Matt Light Grey for the general exterior.
Paints are Vallejo Model Air through an Aztek airbrush (retarder medium is essential), Klear coated and then washed using Winsor & Newton 'Cotman' water colours (8ml finger size tubes that are about £2.50 each) before a final clear and then VMA matt vanish. The washes remain water soluble for hours, which is an advantage for rework and blending (I used raw umber and sepia - the burnt umber is good too as it has a red tint) but you have to Klear them to fix the effect (use an airbrush - a brush just wipes it away). I have an old brush I cut at 45' to create stipple patterns.
Hi dr_gn, Yes, RLM02 would have been better. I had an end of October deadline (10 day build altogether) so It was very much a case of choosing a colour and going with it, but in hindsight the instructions do spec Humbrol 31 for the interior surfaces. As the kit came with a colour scheme cut down to only the four supplied colours, I based the internal colours on the Swiss G-6 and some photos of museum exhibits when I was looking up the brake line layout and saw one that had the deep part of the bay in green and the shallow part (for the leg) in pale grey.
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