Full carbon road bike for 400 quid. What could go wrong?
Discussion
9-speed Sora, sensible gearing, 399 quid. Someone buy one.
I'm not sure how after sales support from Argos would work though!
http://tinyurl.com/k5dgghj
Absolutely screaming deal. Just look at those lovely pedals and rear reflector.
I'm not sure how after sales support from Argos would work though!
http://tinyurl.com/k5dgghj
Absolutely screaming deal. Just look at those lovely pedals and rear reflector.
The crankset is an ICE Alloy compact, 175mm arm length on the bigger size. It looks like a square taper bottom bracket.
ICE cranksets are apparently rebranded FSA cranks - probably a Tempo, Vero or a Gossamer.
It would be an easy sell on eBay, loads of people are looking for square taper compacts for classic road bikes that came with standard (53/39) cranks. Of course, the ICE cranksetit would be perfectly servicable on the ventura, but you could make a strong argument that an external bottom bracket would look less out of place on a new carbon frame.
There is a video walk round on youtube, warning, the music is dreadful:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVe60_WkEFk
ICE cranksets are apparently rebranded FSA cranks - probably a Tempo, Vero or a Gossamer.
It would be an easy sell on eBay, loads of people are looking for square taper compacts for classic road bikes that came with standard (53/39) cranks. Of course, the ICE cranksetit would be perfectly servicable on the ventura, but you could make a strong argument that an external bottom bracket would look less out of place on a new carbon frame.
There is a video walk round on youtube, warning, the music is dreadful:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVe60_WkEFk
Edited by Barchettaman on Thursday 14th August 21:05
Edited by Barchettaman on Thursday 14th August 21:10
I would have preferred a cheaper finishing kit (XLC or Zoom instead of Ritchey) and a Hollowtech bottom bracket - the current Sora crankset is really rather nice - then it really would have been perfect.
Even the Octalink crankset from the Claris gruppo would have been better. But hey ho, it's an easy ipgrade and sell on.
Regarding sizing, beginners should realize that if they are 'between sizes', stems can be swapped out and/or flipped to reduce effective top tube length, seatposts can be changed for zero offset, etc etc. It's relatively easy to make a modern road bike fit a wide variety of people without worrying about the handling going to s
t.
I would suggest the 55cm for 5'6"-5'10
58cm for those bigger.
Oh, and one important consideration for anyone buying this as their first roadbike. You'll need a floor- or trackpump as roadbike tyres take a LOT of psi. Roll around on one without enough pressure in the tyres and you'll destroy the wheelset, and quickly!
http://road.cc/content/review/52262-carrera-virago
Review of the same frame in its Halfords guise.
Even the Octalink crankset from the Claris gruppo would have been better. But hey ho, it's an easy ipgrade and sell on.
Regarding sizing, beginners should realize that if they are 'between sizes', stems can be swapped out and/or flipped to reduce effective top tube length, seatposts can be changed for zero offset, etc etc. It's relatively easy to make a modern road bike fit a wide variety of people without worrying about the handling going to s
t. I would suggest the 55cm for 5'6"-5'10
58cm for those bigger.
Oh, and one important consideration for anyone buying this as their first roadbike. You'll need a floor- or trackpump as roadbike tyres take a LOT of psi. Roll around on one without enough pressure in the tyres and you'll destroy the wheelset, and quickly!
http://road.cc/content/review/52262-carrera-virago
Review of the same frame in its Halfords guise.
Edited by Barchettaman on Friday 15th August 13:15
Edited by Barchettaman on Friday 15th August 13:58
Pretty important assembly point:
For the non-drive side crank arm bolt - the bolt that attaches the LH pedal arm to the bottom bracket i.e. the spindle at the bottom of the frame - use Threadlock (Loctite Blue or similar) prior to tightening it up with the 8mm allen key.
Drive side (RH) doesn't need it.
The LH bolt may well work loose otherwise.
For the non-drive side crank arm bolt - the bolt that attaches the LH pedal arm to the bottom bracket i.e. the spindle at the bottom of the frame - use Threadlock (Loctite Blue or similar) prior to tightening it up with the 8mm allen key.
Drive side (RH) doesn't need it.
The LH bolt may well work loose otherwise.
SHutchinson said:
I'm a bike novice, so I'm looking for some guidance. What are the most logical sensible direct upgrades for this bicycle? Carbon seat post? Carbon handle bars and stem? Different crankset and/or bottom bracket?
One of the really, really good things about this deal is that there is very little you 'need' to upgrade on it.It looks like they are shipping the bike with Vittoria Zaffiro tyres, which are one of the best training tyres on the market, we're going into autumn/winter so no need to touch those.
Wheelset is fine, Shimano R500 are OEM spec on bikes at a much higher pricepoint than this, they're well-liked wheels.
Sora is fine. OK, it's nine speed but that comes with certain advantages too - chains and cassettes are cheaper than 10-speed. The old-style Sora STi levers with the downshift button weren't liked by many, these are the newer-style paddle ones, just like mechanical Dura-Ace.
The gearing has a really good spread, plenty of bottom and top end.
The only major real 'upgrade' out of the box that one could consider, in my view, is the crankset. Square-taper, whilst perfectly servicable and efficient, is old(er) technology. You can make an argument for a Hollowtech II bottom bracket and crank - Sora or Tiagra - but would you really notice when riding? Don't think so, but it would look 'better' on a full carbon frame. Would I bother swapping out the crankset? Maybe, if this Ventura was going to be my #1 best bike, and after the current BB had worn out. If I were buying it as a winter/rain hackabout training bike, I definitely wouldn't bother.
Budget dual-pivot brakes, like this has, are transformed by a switch to better brake pads (KoolStop or similar). That would be the only thing I would upgrade out of the box - having put my SPD pedals on, of course. A small part cost wise making a real upgrade to the oberall package
The saddle is cheap but it may fit your seatbones perfectly. If not, then it's time for an SQ Lab saddle.
Edited by Barchettaman on Tuesday 19th August 15:13
It will definitely work with an 11-28 cassette.
It *might* be OK with an 11-30 if you wind the B-screw in, but you won't know until you try. If it does work I would be wary of crosschaining the big ring!
34-28 gives you a 31.9" crawler gear which should be enough for anything other than the Fred Whitton.
It *might* be OK with an 11-30 if you wind the B-screw in, but you won't know until you try. If it does work I would be wary of crosschaining the big ring!
34-28 gives you a 31.9" crawler gear which should be enough for anything other than the Fred Whitton.
yellowjack said:
Current priority is to recommission a '90s steel commuter that is languishing at the back of the garage. New headset bearings on that, and then see how it's Exage 300 group is holding up. I'll see what happens regarding the salvage of the crashed bike, and if I get to keep it, I'll explore the logistics of fitting the external BB from the Merida in place of the square taper from the steel frame, then switch the Ultegra onto that and create a 'Frankenstein' bike erring toward winter bike/hybrid/CX territory, as it has clearance for >30mm tyres and mudguards, from looking at it. That'll get me back on a road bike again, and I'll probably go for a decent lightweight new road bike at some later stage, budget to be informed by any compensation payment I receive.
That's definitely the way to go, if you've got a useable frame sitting around not doing much.Edited by yellowjack on Wednesday 17th September 10:02
Assuming the Exage groupset isn't completely rusted up it should be usable.
Frankenstein bikes with decent tyre clearance and mudguards are definitely a good thing in my book!
I personally would keep a square taper crankset for anything doing winter/rain/CX duties, although the Exage is probaly 52/42 or something daft like that and might need swapping out for a compact.
wjwren said:
could somebody recommend me wheels/tyres to put on. And will they give much advantage over the stock ones?
New to biking.
thanks
There´s no reason to replace the stock wheels unless you´re planning to race at top level*.New to biking.
thanks
Some bikes have shipped with Vittoria Zaffiro tyres which are probably better than the Kenda tyres listed on the Argos site. If you´re getting loads of punctures look at swapping in a new pair. Give the stock tyres a try though.
Just make sure you´re running at an appropriate pressure (approx. 8 Bar) and you´re good to go.
...*I raced a local team triathlon this weekend, in full aero gear, TT bike, deep race wheels, clip on aero bars, and was unable to catch the kid ahead of me on an entry-level Specialized Tarmac with training wheels and tyres, no aero bars.... the motor is the important thing!
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