Discussion
Our first outing yesterday, at Abingdon, with our Honda. My mate and I bought it together to be used on track, and although we've both done a few days, neither of us is experienced. And it's the first time we've done it in a car which we bought expressly for that purpose.
Really enjoyed the day, and the car. Seemed well balanced, brakes bit hard enough, plenty enough power for us (at least until we learn to drive harder), extremely willing and seemed comfortable.
It's a totally standard road car, so the (possibly naive) question is, what if anything should we be thinking about doing to it? Not more power (yet; I think we can lower the Vtec point to 4.5k and gain another 30bhp for a couple of grand, but that's for the future) but wondering if we should be looking at suspension or brake upgrades, roll bar etc....
As I say, it seemed very well balanced, and this is quite an open and newbie question, but I thought I'd ask nevertheless.....
Really enjoyed the day, and the car. Seemed well balanced, brakes bit hard enough, plenty enough power for us (at least until we learn to drive harder), extremely willing and seemed comfortable.
It's a totally standard road car, so the (possibly naive) question is, what if anything should we be thinking about doing to it? Not more power (yet; I think we can lower the Vtec point to 4.5k and gain another 30bhp for a couple of grand, but that's for the future) but wondering if we should be looking at suspension or brake upgrades, roll bar etc....
As I say, it seemed very well balanced, and this is quite an open and newbie question, but I thought I'd ask nevertheless.....
brillomaster said:
Brake pads and fluid. Track tyres. done..
wouldnt bother lowering the vtec point - who drives a car with a 8000+redline below 4.5k on a track? Also power is the last thing you want to upgrade, after brakes, tyres and suspension.
Pads and fluid, yeah on the list. We have Toyos on the rear, which were good. As we will be driving the car there (for now, until we save the pennies for a trailer) I'm not sure what would be better. wouldnt bother lowering the vtec point - who drives a car with a 8000+redline below 4.5k on a track? Also power is the last thing you want to upgrade, after brakes, tyres and suspension.
For sure, the power increase will wait until we find that we can deal with what we already have. But VTEC kicking in earlier would save some gear changes, at least at our current skill level. Going through some chicanes at Abingdon we were just below the VTEC point, necessitating a downshift. BUT I recognise better skill might change this.
Oilchange said:
And of course, driving instruction. Lots to learn but done together with a sorted car is best.
A roll over bar would be on my list, not one of these shiny decorative things, something that will actually do the job as it's rather easy to put a car on its roof apparently...
Looking at a harddog roll bar, so not a poncy MX5 Style bar thing (I do drive a poncy MX5). Do I take it you have experience of putting a car on its top?A roll over bar would be on my list, not one of these shiny decorative things, something that will actually do the job as it's rather easy to put a car on its roof apparently...
Re. lessons, I've had them on two occasions and they did make a difference. So note to self, more lessons. At the moment though, learning the way the car handles seems the top of the list. So my thoughts are over more time at somewhere forgiving, like Abingdon, just to play, then some lessons.
Edited by T40ORA on Saturday 10th December 21:01
Oilchange said:
Actually you are spot on I think. Lessons followed by play time to prefect what you have learnt. I think it's all about practice really.
No, never put a car on its roof thankfully
I'm very glad to hear that! No, never put a car on its roof thankfully
MyVTECGoesBwaaah said:
Baffled sump might be a good idea, highly recommended on other Hondas for track. Obviously the S2k has the engine the other way, so may not be an issue but still, a lot cheaper than a new engine!
Ah, I hadn't thought that far ahead. I shall inspect the S2 forums......Helical said:
T40ORA said:
Good idea; a jerry-can rather than a 1 gallon jobby,I assume?
Indeed! I bought a 20l jerry can. I think the S2000 only has a ~45l tank, so an additional 20l should see you through even the heaviest footed of days out. Probably.Also saves leaving the track/paying track prices
Edited by Helical on Tuesday 13th December 11:49
bramley said:
I bought this recently
Haven't taken it on track yet though. It's road legal, with cage, heavily stripped interior etc.
I'd recommend a baffled sump, mine has one which I understand is just a kit that's welded in to the sump.
Don't suppose you need any spare wheels do you? I've got more than I need.
Likey a lot!!Haven't taken it on track yet though. It's road legal, with cage, heavily stripped interior etc.
I'd recommend a baffled sump, mine has one which I understand is just a kit that's welded in to the sump.
Don't suppose you need any spare wheels do you? I've got more than I need.
Standard engine apart from the sump? Or has the induction been played with?
I don't need wheels at the moment, as we don't have a trailer yet. But let me talk with my partner in crime (co-owner of the car). What sort of money are you looking at?
paulmnz said:
I've tracked my S2000 quite a bit. My advice:
- do not run semi-slicks, the diff is a little bit fragile, I've seen one break in person and heard it is common on cars running sticky tyres
- don't bother with any engine tuning unless you go supercharged - little gains for lots of £££
- if you want more performance, get a shorter final drive - there is loads of information on the web and various final drives fit from Kia 4x4 front diffs and various mazdas as well as OEM
- I have a baffled sump in my integra type-r as it definitely does get oil starvation (the obvious sign is dropping out of VTEC as is uses oil pressure for the solenoid activation). I haven't had any issue with the S2000, but it will use a lot of oil at high revs - so check it every session and bring plenty.
- brakes are fine using 'race' pads and a high-boiling point fluid.
- I have a super light flywheel in my car (as I was doing the clutch anyway) - highly recommended for track driving if you have to do the clutch at some point it's worth doing at the same time
- The standard roll-over protection should be fine - under the plastic covers are fairly sturdy steel rollbars, I have recaro SPG seats so you sit quite a bit lower than the standard car - they are snug enough that harnesses are not required.
- a K&N air intake sounds great, or just take the lid off the airbox. Dont bother with an exhaust
More food for thought...- do not run semi-slicks, the diff is a little bit fragile, I've seen one break in person and heard it is common on cars running sticky tyres
- don't bother with any engine tuning unless you go supercharged - little gains for lots of £££
- if you want more performance, get a shorter final drive - there is loads of information on the web and various final drives fit from Kia 4x4 front diffs and various mazdas as well as OEM
- I have a baffled sump in my integra type-r as it definitely does get oil starvation (the obvious sign is dropping out of VTEC as is uses oil pressure for the solenoid activation). I haven't had any issue with the S2000, but it will use a lot of oil at high revs - so check it every session and bring plenty.
- brakes are fine using 'race' pads and a high-boiling point fluid.
- I have a super light flywheel in my car (as I was doing the clutch anyway) - highly recommended for track driving if you have to do the clutch at some point it's worth doing at the same time
- The standard roll-over protection should be fine - under the plastic covers are fairly sturdy steel rollbars, I have recaro SPG seats so you sit quite a bit lower than the standard car - they are snug enough that harnesses are not required.
- a K&N air intake sounds great, or just take the lid off the airbox. Dont bother with an exhaust
Wh00sher said:
As already said, Pads, fluid and tyres then just learn to make the most of the car.
No point throwing money at upgrades until you are making the most of what you already have
For sure; the only thing I was considering at this stage was the roll bar - but maybe even that isn't needed...No point throwing money at upgrades until you are making the most of what you already have
Speedtwelve;
You were certainly moving in that VX220, I love those. Is it standard?
Yeah, the track was much nicer in the PM. There was a fair bit of stupid going on that day.
So saying, we were flagged three times; twice, my mate overcooked it and spun, I clipped (and I mean clipped) a cone. But we were trying to learn the car.
Loved it though, and from the posts above it doesn't look like we need to spend much on the car.
Happy days...
You were certainly moving in that VX220, I love those. Is it standard?
Yeah, the track was much nicer in the PM. There was a fair bit of stupid going on that day.
So saying, we were flagged three times; twice, my mate overcooked it and spun, I clipped (and I mean clipped) a cone. But we were trying to learn the car.
Loved it though, and from the posts above it doesn't look like we need to spend much on the car.
Happy days...
Thanks for the advice, guys. Going faster is certainly not on the list just yet; if I really want faster, I'll get the TVR out (after I've addressed the noise issues) but at the moment it's about learning, maximising "driveability" of the car, and safety. (Although, if a couple of grand can give 30+bhp and extend the rev range, then after the following has been done, who knows....?)
So far then, keeping the right rubber on the wheels, upgrading the pads, and changing the brake-fluid are at the top of the list. Looking at the oil filter seems to be a good exercise too
Professional lessons will come, but for me there is a balance to be attained; pushing myself to the limits that I currently have in terms of confidence, THEN getting pro tuition.
Interesting that the roll-cage is not seen as essential. We have standard seats, so it may well be that my loaf sticks above the built in protection and getting a hard-dog might be on the list.
Just need to get out on the track again!
So far then, keeping the right rubber on the wheels, upgrading the pads, and changing the brake-fluid are at the top of the list. Looking at the oil filter seems to be a good exercise too
Professional lessons will come, but for me there is a balance to be attained; pushing myself to the limits that I currently have in terms of confidence, THEN getting pro tuition.
Interesting that the roll-cage is not seen as essential. We have standard seats, so it may well be that my loaf sticks above the built in protection and getting a hard-dog might be on the list.
Just need to get out on the track again!
speedtwelve said:
flat6gallivant
Blue 911 GT4? It looked great.
Bristol spark
Seems to be an S2000 issue, oil filters resonating themselves loose. Some people wire-lock them I believe? Looks like you ended-up with an underbonnet BBQ. I lost the engine on my TVR when the sump-plug undid itself one evening. Not something I regularly checked...
Mark S
You should have kept the 205 GTi!
What TVR did you have? NOT the Speed Twelve I'm guessing!Blue 911 GT4? It looked great.
Bristol spark
Seems to be an S2000 issue, oil filters resonating themselves loose. Some people wire-lock them I believe? Looks like you ended-up with an underbonnet BBQ. I lost the engine on my TVR when the sump-plug undid itself one evening. Not something I regularly checked...
Mark S
You should have kept the 205 GTi!
speedtwelve said:
Mmmmmm.... Cerbera Speed Twelve.... I had a '98 Chimaera 400 for 6 years. Great fun on road & track. I really wanted a Cerb or T-Car, but reckoned a Chim would be less likely to bankrupt me. The car probably cost around £1k/year in maint, which wasn't too bad.
Depending on how many miles you did, £1k per year is excellent!I do adore my Tamora; 4l, around 400bhp, handles extremely well. Just bloody expensive....
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