A late E39 M5 or an early E90 M3

[hygt2]

Trying to understand the pros and cons between a late E39 M5 and an early E90 M3. I have to have a 4-door with a proper manual. No coupe as I have 3 two-door cars already.

As a daily driver to work (2-mile each way in central London and 50% of usage), driving out of London to visit clients (20% usage and mostly motorway), chauffeuring family (20%) and driving for fun (10%).

Which one would you choose?

Key is reliability, depreciation, all year-round drivability and robustness. I imagine running costs will be fairly similar, if not slight cheaper

Many thanks in advance.

Garry

[hygt2]

I've driven both and I am happy with the driving aspect of either. The M3 is better for parking in central London parallel parking space, resident permit and NCPs (obviously) but the M5 is more comfortable as it is less firm, since I have to go through 8 speed-bumps and cobble-stones just to leave my streets near Tower Bridge.

My guess the big expenses would be suspensions bushes, control arms and ball-joints.

My W220 S320L CDI went through 4 sets of ball-joints, 3 sets of anti-roll bar bushes and 1 set of control upper and lower arms in 130k miles.

What's your view of suspension toughness on the M3 and M5?

[hygt2]

vescaegg said:

Is the E90 M3 not still a fair bit more than even the best E39 M5? Difference of £20-25k to £10-13k?

Yes, I can afford either but not both at the same time (nor the space for that matter).

I am planning to keep them until the next, very good, proper manual M3/M5 4-door comes along second-hand but that maybe a good 4-5 years away.

I enjoy driving both.

But choose with head rather than heart, 4-door manual M3 or M5?

[hygt2]

phn said:

What impresses me most around town is you can drive it like a diesel if you wish (heresy I know) as it will easily pull from low revs in high gears, making choice of gear almost irrelevant. Having said that, following a recent drive through central London, it did get me thinking a more modern M5 (with an Auto gearbox) might be more convenient if you spend a lot of time in traffic jams.

Thanks but I am looking for a manual. The E39 clutch is very acceptable compared to some others I have.

Having driven the E60 in town, the clutch control was stupid.

For example, I often crawl forward by just lifting the clutch without throttle - very useful in central London traffic as well as parallel parking into very tight spaces. An auto-clutch just won't allow you to let the clutch in very gently or allow clutch slip.

Hence I am still going for a proper manual.

[hygt2]

Hedgetrimmer said:

The M3 has been less reliable but it is under AUC at the moment so not an issue.

What's been the problem with your M3? I am NOT planning to buy with AUC. The RAC Gold warranty has covered my cars so far with no trouble.

Hedgetrimmer said:

The only reason I moved on from the M5 was the fact that rust was starting in some places (2001 car), albiet only small patches.

Agreed. I have looked at 6 so far and the best one I have seen still had rust above the rear number plate where the 2 panels join and inside the petrol filler compartment, doesn't matter they are towards the bottom or top of the price range £8k - £12k.

I'm not too worried about the bootlid - it's easy enough to find a good scrap bootlid and if it is a difference colour, I have a local paint shop that looks after my other cars. I'm more worried about the filler well as you'll have to cut and weld which I don't have anyone who can do it for me on the cheap.

I'm looking at a regularly used, daily driver of 10k miles per year on 51, 02 and 52-reg (i.e. 90k to 110k) but with extensive maintenance history and rust-free. I would put about 10k per year anyway so don't want a low miler. Detailing and paint will be taken care of by people who look after my cars.

[hygt2]

phn said:

Guess I must have been lucky then, my M5 has no rust, no advisories on MOT, FSH, 70k on the clock and only cost 7K!

Which year?

[hygt2]

naefeart said:

No rusty fuel cap though my boot lid had some tiny localised signs of paint discolouration - normally the start of bubbling. Had this all repaired at a bodyshop and replaced the faded badges while it was there. 12 months on and it's still perfect. Obviously a week point on the 5s but nothing that would put me off. Worst case is a new boot lid anyway.

How much is a new bootlid?

naefeart said:

Besides when I was looking at younger AMG mercs (2004/5 C55s and E55s), I was surprised to see rather poor signs of rust resistance. I assume Merc has fixed this for the newer cars.

I believe only facelifted S, SL and CL from mid-00s onwards are ok. My 2004 (W220) S320 facelift have no rust even though there are quite a few stone chips in the arches and bonnet. My Mercedes specialist told me to stay stick with the S, SL and CL if I ever buy Mercedes again.

[hygt2]

flatso said:

Also looking at the Audi A5 4,2 but it somehow does not have the same appeal as a proper facelifted e39.

Oh, don't go for a Audi A5 4.2 (S5) if you enjoy driving.

The feel of driving the Audi is totally numb compared to an E39 M5. I'm pretty sure that the A5/S5 is beautifully built/crafted and its all weather pace is undoubtedly faster than the M5 but there is nothing to get excited about the drive.