S14 or S50?

S14 or S50?

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e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Friday 13th November 2015
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I'm lucky to have an E30 M3 which I use for hoon duties here in Cornwall and occasional track days. It's modified with bigger Tarox brakes, shorter ratio diff, cage, carbon air box etc. Much as I love the s14 engine, I do want a bit more power, so I've been thinking of dropping in an s50 3.0 instead.

Ideally, I'd like a reliable 250bhp from the s14 so was thinking Schrick cams and proper standalone management? I know how expensive it can be to mod an s14 though, so would the £5k cost of the s50 swap be enough?

If I did go s50 I'd keep the s14 to go with the car, if I do ever sell it, or should I leave the e30 alone and buy an e46 M3 to go with it?

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Friday 13th November 2015
quotequote all
benny.c said:
Is 250 bhp realistic? My Evo II has Schrick cams and a Motec ECU and made 238bhp when it was first converted. This was all before I purchased it so I have never really looked in to it TBH.
It's achievable but at a cost, which is why the S50 swap appeals. A pal of mine has just built his s14 to GrpA spec, with lairy cams, slide throttle injection, twin fuel rails etc. A parts bill of over £15k though and probably similar power to a £2.5k s54? It's a work of art though and certainly the route I'll go, when the lottery win comes along. smile

I'm leaning towards an E46 M3. I'm being emailed hi-def pictures over the weekend and it appears to have had the major concerns taken care of. The only problem really, is that I'm already looking at carbon fibre air boxes and free flow exhausts!

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Saturday 14th November 2015
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Carbon airbox makes the whole driving experience so special, it's worth the extra cost for the noise alone.

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Sunday 15th November 2015
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Yes, the s14 is safe and I'm probably going to go with Schrick cams & 4 branch.

I didn't realise just how tough it would be to find an e46 M3 (at lower end of price range) but there are very few coupe available and convertible just aren't my thing. I'll keep looking but don't want to end up with something needing cash thrown at it. I'd rather it went on the e30!

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Sunday 15th November 2015
quotequote all
stevesingo said:
4 branch?

The general consensus is that 4-1 exhaust manifolds which are available for the S14 are not suitable for engines making peak power below 8k rpm. Engines with Schrick 284/276 and even 292/284 tend to lose a lot of mid range torque when fitted with a 4-1 manifold.

That is not to say the stock manifold can't be bettered, I'm certain this is an untapped area for the S14. A 4-2-1 with correctly sized primary and secondary diameters and lengths would be something worth looking in to. I've yet to see such a manifold though.
I've just been reading up and come to same conclusion, so will leave alone for now. What would be the next step on from, or in addition to, the cams?

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Sunday 15th November 2015
quotequote all
Looks like I'll just be going with the cams then. laugh I think I'll be happy enough with a reliable 250'ish anyway. Plus it'll mean I can get some new seats.

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Monday 16th November 2015
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Do 292/284 require different pistons?

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Tuesday 24th November 2015
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Am definitely keeping the S14. smile

I'm having some fuelling issues though, so rather than start another thread, I figured I would ask you guys for some help.

Although my car appears to run fine, it is definitely running very rich and is considerably down on power. I've done the more obvious checks, like air filter and fuel pressure, but all seems well. That said, I believe the adjustable fuel pressure regulator isn't the best available. I'm just struggling to diagnose the reason behind the sudden rich running and power loss? I have ordered a new coolant temperature sensor but wondered if the air temp' sensor (in the air box snorkel) could be the culprit? If you disconnect the temp' sensor, when the engine is running, should it be obvious?

Thanks in advance.

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Tuesday 24th November 2015
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I'll try and find a printout and scan it later today but peak power was only 181.6 HP and was running a rich from around 5000 to 7000 with an AFR of around 10, rising to around 11 - 11.2 everywhere else. It was previously making 215 - 220 bhp.

Also, do you know how the Tech Edge LA1 AFR display are connected?

I'll take the FPR please. (Just fire across your details - thank you!) I didn't fit the adjustable one, it was on the car already.

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Wednesday 25th November 2015
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It's a Tech-Edge LA1 and it was working when I got my car but I had some old wiring removed, whilst the dash was out and being flocked, and it wasn't re connected. I'm struggling to find out if it has a control box or simply connects to a lambda?


e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Saturday 28th November 2015
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Well my s14 runs the usual carbon air box, Maxx Alpha N set up and although it appears to run OK and rev cleanly, it is just not making the power it did and is running far too rich. I have replaced the lambda, the coolant temp' sensor, barometric sensor & the air temp' sensor etc but on the dyno peak power was only 181.6 HP (flywheel) and it was running rich from around 5k revs to 7k revs, with an AFR of around 10, rising to 11 - 11.2 everywhere else. It had previously made 210 - 215HP. The chip and Alpha N map were both supplied by John on s14.power so am sure the problem lies elsewhere. I'm just struggling to find it.

A compression test showed 200 190 190 200 and the tappets were all at 1.4

Any suggestions guys?

After spending a few hours reading old threads, I am thinking there is most likely a fault in the sensor wiring?

If the engine is at idle and you unplug the air intake temp' sensor should it effect the running? There is a small change (hardly noticeable unless deliberately looking for it) but nothing more.

Are the connectors for the coolant temp' sensor likely to fail and give a false reading, that might cause over fuelling?

Would running a regular lambda, as opposed to the wide band version, cause any issues?