My DIY kayak electric motor bracket build
Discussion
Hi,
After using my kayak around the Cornish coast, it deemed a good idea to have some kind of additional propulsion to get across the Fal estuary and help fight the strong tides down there. So I decided to try and rig up an electric motor bracket.
So this is my first mock up. Apologies for the poor photos. It was dark and just had my phone on me at the time. We've basically made a 3mm thick stainless steel bracket which mounts using the original rod holder screw holes, negating the need to drill additional holes in the boat. I've so far just used a piece of old pallet wood and some super long stainless steel bolts I had lying around (I also ran out of washers!) for a mock up to check fitment, but all seems well so far! Just need to find some good hardwood, cut it down and away I go. I plan on finishing off the mock up tomorrow and taking it out for a quick run in Lymington river in the afternoon to see how it goes.
I may also end up having to make a counterbalance weight for the other side. I have some small lead weights for this purpose.
Some photos of the work so far...
After using my kayak around the Cornish coast, it deemed a good idea to have some kind of additional propulsion to get across the Fal estuary and help fight the strong tides down there. So I decided to try and rig up an electric motor bracket.
So this is my first mock up. Apologies for the poor photos. It was dark and just had my phone on me at the time. We've basically made a 3mm thick stainless steel bracket which mounts using the original rod holder screw holes, negating the need to drill additional holes in the boat. I've so far just used a piece of old pallet wood and some super long stainless steel bolts I had lying around (I also ran out of washers!) for a mock up to check fitment, but all seems well so far! Just need to find some good hardwood, cut it down and away I go. I plan on finishing off the mock up tomorrow and taking it out for a quick run in Lymington river in the afternoon to see how it goes.
I may also end up having to make a counterbalance weight for the other side. I have some small lead weights for this purpose.
Some photos of the work so far...
Next plan is to get a good battery and box and make a kill switch. Still not sure how to do this yet. I can get a Yamaha outboard kill switch through work (I'm a Yamaha outboard dealer), but it's only rated for very low currents with very thin wires. I will have to make some kind of relay system to switch the high current supply to the electric motor.
I am also looking at a sail kit. Something like this: http://www.pacificaction.com/ as this one utilises the existing fittings in the OCean Kayak fishing boats.
Well it all works ok. Only slight problem is that it does slightly get in the way when you're paddling so need to overcome this somehow.
It motors ok though, on slow setting it works great as an aid to paddling, on mid setting it's fine to push you through the water as primary propulsion. On the fastest setting it's a little too quick I think but it's still stable in the water. Just a few fine tweaks to do and it will be ready. I have some photos and videos to sort through which I'll post up later.
It motors ok though, on slow setting it works great as an aid to paddling, on mid setting it's fine to push you through the water as primary propulsion. On the fastest setting it's a little too quick I think but it's still stable in the water. Just a few fine tweaks to do and it will be ready. I have some photos and videos to sort through which I'll post up later.
Here's a vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpoFpvYlK8w
and another: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vO1CFZTbHg4
and another: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vO1CFZTbHg4
Some iPhone photos. Not the best quality as the sun was setting so light was limited!
32 lb thrust electric trolling motor, built by Minn Kota, branded Fladen Marine. I have the choice of another, a 40 lb thrust Minn Kota motor, but I think this might be overkill. I have seen a video on Youtube of someone with a 55 lb thrust motor and he pretty ugh has it on the plane. I'm conscious of weight, so may stick with the smaller (lighter motor)
I did the the battery box central and well secured with the shock cord straps, but I found it a little heavy to port, so I moved the battery to starboard to try and compensate the weight of the engine. Seems to have worked well and it now rests level. It's not particularly secure to one side though, so I may need to look into adding additional straps/shockcord. The other option is I did also leave 6" of wood overhanging the starboard side, which I could use to add some ballast weight. I do have some lead I could use for this.
Me!
32 lb thrust electric trolling motor, built by Minn Kota, branded Fladen Marine. I have the choice of another, a 40 lb thrust Minn Kota motor, but I think this might be overkill. I have seen a video on Youtube of someone with a 55 lb thrust motor and he pretty ugh has it on the plane. I'm conscious of weight, so may stick with the smaller (lighter motor)
I did the the battery box central and well secured with the shock cord straps, but I found it a little heavy to port, so I moved the battery to starboard to try and compensate the weight of the engine. Seems to have worked well and it now rests level. It's not particularly secure to one side though, so I may need to look into adding additional straps/shockcord. The other option is I did also leave 6" of wood overhanging the starboard side, which I could use to add some ballast weight. I do have some lead I could use for this.
Me!
Edited by danyeates on Sunday 2nd October 21:32
daveparry said:
Please explain WHY you just didn't drill a hole behind your sitting position and mount the motor centrally?
Or am I being thick!
Because I didn't want to drill a big hole in my £800 kayak! And it would sink! Or am I being thick!
It has holes right through for drainage, but if you just drill/cut a hole right through the hull, water would pour inside the hull. Ben Jk said:
This seems to defeat the object of having a kayak IMO?
Depends what you're using it for. I'm doing long distance paddling in tidal Coastal areas that have strong currents. It's there as a safety net/paddling aid than a primary method of propulsion. Also, I sold a RIB which would often burn £100 a day but I still wanted a cheap and easy way of getting onto the water. So I use my kayak not only for paddling, but also as a cheap and easy replacement to my boat. The trolling motor allows just that. I have the flexibilit of paddling or travelling under motor (both cost nothing!) but also have the benefit of being able to fight strong winds and tides when crossing the Solent or Fal esturary.
Edited by danyeates on Monday 3rd October 08:30
I have realised that I do need a rudder though. Steering is very difficult. I won't be using the motor much in close confines, but as the kayak is so long it is difficult to turn. I may buy the Ocean Kayak rudder kit which will allow me to lock the motor in the dead ahead position and turn with my feet.
Mmm, not sure of the diameter of the rod holder, fairly large though. Only problem is the tube inside the hole doesn't go down vertically. It's angled so the rod reaches out of the kayak at 45 degrees or so. This would make fitting an engine bracket tube difficult. I understand your idea and the principle, but it would be much easier if the hole ran down vertically into the kayak. I'm also worried that the rod holder might not be strong enough.
Initially I did start by looking at a bracket that mounted inside the rod holders. Using the similar idea of the piece of wood, but mounting it using tubes inside the rod holders. Then my friend (a sheet metal worker) suggested making the brackets.
Re. the motorcycle batteries. I haven't tried. I do have some motorcycle/jet ski batteries at work, but they come empty so need topping up and charging before use and I didn't have time to do that. I'd need to do some sums to see if they'd last long enough.
Initially I did start by looking at a bracket that mounted inside the rod holders. Using the similar idea of the piece of wood, but mounting it using tubes inside the rod holders. Then my friend (a sheet metal worker) suggested making the brackets.
Re. the motorcycle batteries. I haven't tried. I do have some motorcycle/jet ski batteries at work, but they come empty so need topping up and charging before use and I didn't have time to do that. I'd need to do some sums to see if they'd last long enough.
shouldbworking said:
Seems a bit of a weird thing to do in my eyes - much like electric bicycles, however surely youd be better of with having a set of rudder pedals to control direction of it and a fixed throttle control somewhere down at the side of the seat?
See my previous posts to both of those comments. Slightly more tricky to rig a remote throttle control, but something I may look into. danyeates said:
Ben Jk said:
This seems to defeat the object of having a kayak IMO?
Depends what you're using it for. I'm doing long distance paddling in tidal Coastal areas that have strong currents. It's there as a safety net/paddling aid than a primary method of propulsion. Also, I sold a RIB which would often burn £100 a day but I still wanted a cheap and easy way of getting onto the water. So I use my kayak not only for paddling, but also as a cheap and easy replacement to my boat. The trolling motor allows just that. I have the flexibilit of paddling or travelling under motor (both cost nothing!) but also have the benefit of being able to fight strong winds and tides when crossing the Solent or Fal esturary.
Edited by danyeates on Monday 3rd October 08:30
richardxjr said:
My 'ski battery is rated @ 19aH if that's any help. 2 would still be a lot lighter and easier to place than that massive one.
Solar charging panel?
Ok, I was using a 75AH battery as that's what I had to hand at work. Solar charging panel?This video I found explains runtime and amp hours in the description.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-_tLSp4CEk
"Demonstration of a kayak with a 30 lb thrust trolling motor. At full speed, the kayak can move at more than 4 miles per hour. With a 105 amp deep cycle battery the kayak can go at full speed for more than 3 hours. Excellent for fishing or just cruising a lake or ocean."
I probably don't need this sort of run time, so maybe jet ski batteries would be a better option.
richardxjr said:
That was my first thought, but I expect you lock it straight ahead and steer with the paddles! The now central prop would act like a skeg, no?
2 x ski batteries in your storage panel up front, and a solar cell on the lid
Yes, it would. I'd want to be in more control though. Especially where there's a lot of other boats around. I'd want the tiller to be within easy reach in case of emergency.2 x ski batteries in your storage panel up front, and a solar cell on the lid
Two batteries away in the locker would be ideal as it would free up the stern storage for my cool box. Only advantage with the big heavy 75AH battery is it counter balances the motor if it's fitted to one side.
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