Crossram build

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Here are some pictures of my build I made some flanges to keep the hot air out of the cabin for the cables

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Radiator going in

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I tossed out the Ultima bolts and got some ARP bolts drilled some holes for safety wires, I never hurts to be safe. In the past I have found that most bolts fall off of these types of cars due to the hard driving they go through, so many of the bolts will be safety wired. [ur|http://thumbsnap.com/oKyWuuUn[/url]

Edited by crossram on Thursday 26th December 06:06

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Steve_D said:

Whilst I can relate to the idea of making things as safe as possible I feel, in this case, you have perhaps gone the other way.
The Ultima supplied bolts would have been 8.8 grade and include Nyloc nuts which are more than adequate for the task. I have dismantled these joints on 20 year old TVR cars and in some cases have had to cut them off as they are so secure.
It appears, but I could be wrong, that there is no lock washer on your bolt. The lock wire will prevent the bolt from rotating but does not prevent the nut from doing so. It looks like the nut could undo by about 5 turns. The wire will stop the nut and bolt falling out but this is a clamp so the clamping force will be lost and the steering shaft could then spin in the joint with the resultant lose of steering.

If the lock wire had gone through a corner of the nut and a corner of the bolt head then all would be well.

Steve

ARP hardware is heat-treated 8740 chromoly They are nominally rated at 180,000 psi tensile strength and provide a substantial extra margin of safety over Grade 8 hardware.They also resist rust and are maintenance-free you can read more here http://arp-bolts.com/ The picture was only for reference, final installation will look a bit different.

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donkeasy said:

I looked at your photo's.
You have a really different approach to solutions, nice!
Let the pictures come so we can give usable comments.

1. Maybe next time put the kit on the outside?

Not sure what kit on outside means?

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When the Ultima is shipped to the USA it comes in a few big crates, real big crates! The packaging is excellent and I found the quality of the wood to be very high, so I slapped some paint on the pieces and reconfigured it into a shed to store my body molds.

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donkeasy said:

Yea the problem area was the round upright, no access on the outside, I don't think any of those seals will touch though.

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Mounting these radiator air shields do you mount them right over the top of the other rivets?

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Does anyone block this gap?

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Thanks I thought that tape was for the sides :-)

Edited by crossram on Friday 27th December 17:09

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Thanks!


So I took a paint stick cut it to length so it ended on the center of a rivet I wasn't going to use off the aluminum side plate

clamped it down and tapped it with a hammer leaving the dimples

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Then I punched out the holes, and gave them a bevel so they would lay back over the rivet head nice

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Placed the pattern back on the rivets to make sure it lined up, then used the hot glue gun and glued the wood to the aluminum.







Once the wood is glued I took the two glued parts to the bench and used the center punch to mark the holes




I was then able to punch and drill out the holes



everything lined up !

Edited by crossram on Friday 27th December 23:55

now it will lay flat .

Edited by crossram on Friday 27th December 23:57

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extended footwell drawing


Have you connected the throttle cable? I could use help with that , I am using a SBC,

also the placement of brake lines and elect cables near the extended footwell

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Radiator in thinking of building a air stop plate rather than using that foam, any suggestion on position in front of gap or behind?

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side view

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The gap

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How many of you drill these out per the diagram?

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Thats one vote no any others ? opinions?

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There is no rhyme or reason on their documentation

It would take a college intern one summer to clean up 90% of these issues.