Critique my bathroom design

Author
Discussion

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Thursday 10th April 2014
quotequote all
I could do with an objective view of my design of our bathroom please.

We have 2 young kids and a teenager so the brief is as follows:
  • 2 kids under 5 so bath essential.
  • Wife, teenage daughter and I prefer showers.
  • 3 girls in the house so products, products and more products. Ergo, lots of partitionable storage including the ability to hide cleaning products and spare toilet rolls (anyone who has lived with girls and kids knows the number of toilet rolls consumed).
  • Very small room. No option to move walls due to layout.
  • We are 2 years through a 5 year live, do-up and sell plan with this house so it needs to satisfy a broad requirement of suiting a 3 bed house.
This is what I have come up with. Views please.





Detail
  • Everything sourced from bathstore, quality fits price point (I'll take views on this statement).
  • P-shaped bath to suit requirement of shower and bath.
  • Step along bath length to allow for storage of products as I know they will end up along the bathline otherwise.
  • Towel rad at end of bath for, well, bath towels.
  • Towel hoop to right of sink for, well, sink towels.
  • Loo roll bottom left of window.
  • Double sink to suit a busy household with one bathroom.
  • I plan to build the wall cabinets. 900mm tall so lots of storage and mirrored. Shaver socket(s) located within for toothbrush chargers.
  • Door is being moved to suit design so can be hung either way. I'll take a steer on that.

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Thursday 10th April 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Tonker and all. I'll try and respond to each.

Seems double sink is universally thought of as a poor idea.

Constraint with the room is that I am limited to how far I can move the door due to entrance to bedroom. Although at a push it could move to the (ETA) LEFT to suit a different position of the door but would lead to an awkward landing layout. Additionally, the stack pipe is currently located behind the boxing in the top left right corner.


(Ignore the window size)

ETA: I have a rough drawing of a standalone shower, let me post that.

Edited by Origin Unknown on Thursday 10th April 22:17

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Thursday 10th April 2014
quotequote all
The issue with a standalone shower is that I have no option for storage. There is no airing cupboard nor any other storage upstairs so storage in the bathroom itself is mandatory. Additionally, The room is cramped as it is and the shower takes over.


Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Thursday 10th April 2014
quotequote all
rfisher said:
Need to do this.

What cad programme is that?

I'd try to get a walk in shower along the sinks wall, bath where the bath is and toilet, sink, storage unit along the window wall.
Google Sketchup.

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Thursday 10th April 2014
quotequote all
Ok, some great ideas here. I'll try and throw some plans together to reflect the various ideas WRT positioning.

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Friday 24th October 2014
quotequote all
Finally have the budget now to progress this. Factored in guidance in this thread and ditched the duel sink in favour of a single.

The previous approach of moving the existing stack pipe outside is proving to be way too much work for little reward. So, new plan is as follows.

The stack pipe in the corner is cast so I intend to cut in the kitchen below the bathroom and make the everything upwards redundant, including what pokes out the roof. I'll have to do it in sections as I know it will weigh a fair amount.

I'll then marry it to 110mm plastic, T off towards the toilet and provide waste connections for the bath and sink into the T. The boxing is reflected as transparent but will not be. I'll run the soil pipe as high as I can and use an AAV to top it off.

Thoughts?

Excuse the crap drawing, I've changed the design some many times, I've given up making it pretty. Dimensions are correct though.


Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Friday 24th October 2014
quotequote all
The bath has to go that way round because the first floor of the house is pitched and tiled. Inside the room, it means that the walls are vertical for 1700mm off the floor and then come into the room at around 10-15 degrees. The shower screen is too high to fit.

I'll have to put a bump stop on the floor to catch the door when swung open.

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Friday 24th October 2014
quotequote all
Sounds familiar, every door reveal downstairs is cracked. 3 women in my house, wife, 13 y/o and a 6 y/o. And a 3 y/o boy.

The shower screen doesn't have a chance does it.

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Sunday 9th November 2014
quotequote all
Guys,

Any reason why I cannot use Kitchen carcasses in a bathroom? I want 900 tall units like I have in the kitchen so my plan is to:

  • Reduce the depth by cutting them down, possible create a rabbet to refit backpanels and use standard wall mounts
  • Use gloss white units and doors
  • Glue mirrors to the door
  • Add a third central kitchen unit hinge (I have already created a jig for the router to route these out from a previous project)
  • Possible route out a void in the door behind the mirror to house a heat pack
I'll use a 600, 300 & another 600 unit and use 300 doors to minimise intrusion into the room

I assume that as long as all cuts are properly sealed against moisture ingress then they should work well.

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Sunday 9th November 2014
quotequote all
Went with an L shaped bath rather than a P shared to match the squared angles of the opposing unit.


Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Sunday 9th November 2014
quotequote all
Mandalore said:
So where? Are the towel rails going to be?
Open to suggestions. Original plan was to install a towel rail where the glass shelves are at the end of the bath but being covered in towels and restricted space driving size will significantly reduce the output. Given the boxing for the stack pipe means the toilet is sufficiently far from the wall under the window, I thought I could put a radiator or towel rail there. There will be a towel ring to the right of the basin and a towel hook between the window and the glass shelving as depicted so you can grab the towel as you step from the bath/shower onto the floor.

Edited by Origin Unknown on Sunday 9th November 22:02

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Sunday 9th November 2014
quotequote all
igiveup said:
Get more worktop space by cutting down soil stack to just below worktop and fit a durgo valve to it.
The unit is a bathstore unit and the widest they do is a 1500 top with integrated sink (room is 1700 wide). As I understand it, the durgo/AAV needs to be above the topmost entry point of water into the system, so sink overflow, by X amount. X escapes me right now!

If it is negligent, then I could terminate the durgo/AAV just shy of worktop height to increase the space. By going with 900 tall units, I'm not looking for the work surface to actually be used but with a wife and 3 kids, I already know it will be a dumping ground smile

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Monday 10th November 2014
quotequote all
Origin Unknown said:
Guys,

Any reason why I cannot use Kitchen carcasses in a bathroom? I want 900 tall units like I have in the kitchen so my plan is to:

  • Reduce the depth by cutting them down, possible create a rabbet to refit backpanels and use standard wall mounts
  • Use gloss white units and doors
  • Glue mirrors to the door
  • Add a third central kitchen unit hinge (I have already created a jig for the router to route these out from a previous project)
  • Possible route out a void in the door behind the mirror to house a heat pack
I'll use a 600, 300 & another 600 unit and use 300 doors to minimise intrusion into the room

I assume that as long as all cuts are properly sealed against moisture ingress then they should work well.
Any thoughts on this question?

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Monday 10th November 2014
quotequote all
Good steer on both points, cheers!

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Monday 10th November 2014
quotequote all
Cheers paul. Just priced up 2 x 600 and a 300 @ 900 tall and including doors, it was coming out at ~£450.

Pretty sure I can build a unit and doors from 18mm ply and paint it. Mirrors will be fixed to the door faces anyway.

Current render.


Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Wednesday 19th November 2014
quotequote all
Tiles are now the sticking point. Seems grey tiles are in vogue at the moment but I need something that still looks the part in 3 - 4 years time. Entirely subjective but any thoughts? Had a look at what new builds are being supplied with and it seems glossy stone











Tesco value door handle already purchased wink

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Monday 27th April 2015
quotequote all
Thought I would come back and update the thread. Complete (bar painting the skirting) smile

Unit from Bathstore. Polymarble top is very nice, quality of unit underneath was ok. Grohe tap finishes it off nicely.



Mmmm heated bog roll smile



It's a very small room but a nice big window does make it feel bigger.



Really pleased with the floating glass shelves. I designed these to be only deep enough to take one bottle deep so it doesn't become a dumping ground. Total pig to tile around given I was using 600x300 tiles, sick to death of cuts! Grohe tap is a little disappointing in terms of flow rate. It's not a high pressure tap, but to fill a large bath takes a very long time.



Really pleased with the bathstore L shaped bath, nice wide shower area. Grohe value, head and bar.



Storage was pretty much at the top of the requirements list. So I built these cabinets to be 900 high, 1500 wide. Created a service gap behind to hide a cable for a double shaver socket in the middle cabinet for tooth brushes. After painting, I decided to get the doors made up and professionally painted in gloss white as I can't achieve anywhere near that finish about home. These are ~230 deep units, next time I will make them 1/2 the depth. However, we have more or less filled them!

Shame the ceiling runs out so much, but you don't really notice in reality.



Took me a lot longer to complete than anticipated. Not easy when it's the only bathroom in the house and we are a family of 5!

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Tuesday 28th April 2015
quotequote all
Thanks smile

Emeye said:
Good to see an update. Did you go for a standard door?
My wife was keen on keeping a full width door with the option of changing it for split door if it didn't work. As it turns out, it doesn't interfere with the room so she wants it left as is.

Origin Unknown

Original Poster:

2,297 posts

169 months

Tuesday 28th April 2015
quotequote all
No worries and good luck! As you can see from the timeline of this thread, I more or less spent 8 months planning this and trying to come up with the best use of such as small space. With some great help from people in this thread, this really is the best use of that space. The caveat being depending on where your window and stack pipe are located and whether you need to/can move the door.

If you want the SketchUp files for this design, PM me and I'll send them to you.