How much do you need to spend on a chainsaw?
Discussion
I've had a Qualcast 16" 45cc chainsaw for about 18 months now which generally did a decent job given the amount of abuse it received (site clearance and cutting sleepers). However using it at the weekend it developed a fuel leak so I replaced it with a similar model, however that one proved to be garbage, the chain tensioning mechanism was made of plastic and failed several times in a few hours throwing the chain off.
Both have now gone back for a refund and I need to replace it with a Stihl or similar one that is actually reliable. It will be used for site clearance, cutting down trees up to about 18 inches in diameter, the kind of work that isn't cost effective to get a tree surgeon to do. It might go a year without being used but it's probably worth getting something decent. It needs to be light (I am not built like a lumberjack), it needs to be safe (as far as they can be) and it needs to be reliable.
I'd be interested in any recommendations or explanations as to what features come with the more expensive saws.
Both have now gone back for a refund and I need to replace it with a Stihl or similar one that is actually reliable. It will be used for site clearance, cutting down trees up to about 18 inches in diameter, the kind of work that isn't cost effective to get a tree surgeon to do. It might go a year without being used but it's probably worth getting something decent. It needs to be light (I am not built like a lumberjack), it needs to be safe (as far as they can be) and it needs to be reliable.
I'd be interested in any recommendations or explanations as to what features come with the more expensive saws.
sparkythecat said:
Looks quite similar to the Qualcast one but if you are using it all day long and paying others to help you it becomes a false economy if it isn't reliable. I think I need something slightly better.Something like this perhaps? I think a 16" bar is probably about right for the kind of things I am cutting.
https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/stihl-ms181-c-be-31...
https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/stihl-ms181-c-be-31...
The guys that I hire chippers and stump grinders from are recommending the Husqvarna 236 over the 135. It's slightly heavier but they say its performance is much the same as the 135, but a lot cheaper and to get anything significantly better is a lot more money. The 236 is only £140 at the moment.
guindilias said:
Normally called "Dawgs" in the US - and you just know you really want a Stihl 880 - with a 10" bar. 
I have one with a 36" bar, and it goes through anything at light speed!
Also, the best chain I have ever found, and use nothing else since, is Stihl RSC - a very aggressive chain, not anti kick-back or anything, needs a bit of power to pull it, but cuts super-fast and lasts a good while before it needs a touch of the file.
I want a saw (and chain) that is most likely to keep all my limbs intact at the end of the day!I have one with a 36" bar, and it goes through anything at light speed!
Also, the best chain I have ever found, and use nothing else since, is Stihl RSC - a very aggressive chain, not anti kick-back or anything, needs a bit of power to pull it, but cuts super-fast and lasts a good while before it needs a touch of the file.
Picked up the 263 on Friday and I've been having problems with it, it cuts out very frequently, I was using it yesterday and it would only manage 2 or 3 cuts before stalling all the time.
I can't figure out what I am doing wrong, new petrol, accurate 50:1 mix as specified and the chain isn't overly tight, but it's very frustrating.
I can't figure out what I am doing wrong, new petrol, accurate 50:1 mix as specified and the chain isn't overly tight, but it's very frustrating.
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