Discussion
Considering house move, it's a long time since I lived in a drafty old victorian house with solid walls. It has double glazing and a loft conversion (of sorts)
Am I likely to find it a bit of a mare to heat?
http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/prope...
Am I likely to find it a bit of a mare to heat?
http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/prope...
Ahhhh that would explain when I lived in a city centre victorian terrace, one particularly hot humid day a tide mark appeared on the inside 1m up from the floor.
Apparently many of the houses suffered similar that day, the explanation from a local builder was water trapped in the ground had nowhere to evaporate too.
No idea re the roof, trickle vents are in the window frames.
Apparently many of the houses suffered similar that day, the explanation from a local builder was water trapped in the ground had nowhere to evaporate too.
No idea re the roof, trickle vents are in the window frames.
Edited by PositronicRay on Sunday 19th February 07:47
Gtom said:
You have been give some duff advice there.
That house won't be a single skin, it will more than likely be a 9" solid wall.
What state are the rooms in? If they are due a bit of an upgrade you could do some internal insulating at that point, 40mm PIR board would make a world of difference. Couple that with a coating on the brickwork (secotherm or something like) and that place will be warm.
Looking at the reveals in the roof windows, there isn't a lot of insulation there either.
Not perfect but liveable (actually a bit less yellow than the photos) That house won't be a single skin, it will more than likely be a 9" solid wall.
What state are the rooms in? If they are due a bit of an upgrade you could do some internal insulating at that point, 40mm PIR board would make a world of difference. Couple that with a coating on the brickwork (secotherm or something like) and that place will be warm.
Looking at the reveals in the roof windows, there isn't a lot of insulation there either.
The plan would be to do nothing (famous last words) for the 1st year or so..........
nyt said:
I have the same house construction. I'm not sure that I'd have another.
Our hallway is the full height of the house and in cold weather you can feel cold air falling down it like a waterfall.
It's enlightening walking into the extension (built to modern specs) when the heating has been off. The main house is freezing but the extension is relatively comfortable.
It's not spectacularly expensive to heat but you have to make sure that there is good airflow everywhere. Leaving a chest of drawers too close to the wall will eventually cause mould. Bathrooms etc need decent extractors.
I'm going to upgrade with some: http://www.proctorgroup.com/products/spacetherm. It seems possible to get very decent u vales with relatively thin internal insulation.
Thanks useful info. This one is south facing on the long side, and a semi so maybe stay a little warmer, if we buy, wife has been instructed not to dry clothes in the spare bedroom.Our hallway is the full height of the house and in cold weather you can feel cold air falling down it like a waterfall.
It's enlightening walking into the extension (built to modern specs) when the heating has been off. The main house is freezing but the extension is relatively comfortable.
It's not spectacularly expensive to heat but you have to make sure that there is good airflow everywhere. Leaving a chest of drawers too close to the wall will eventually cause mould. Bathrooms etc need decent extractors.
I'm going to upgrade with some: http://www.proctorgroup.com/products/spacetherm. It seems possible to get very decent u vales with relatively thin internal insulation.
- Disclaimer - my house is detached and in permanent shadow. I think even occasional sunshine would help.
As an aside, what will the noise insulation likely to be from next door? Currently in a 60s semi which is okay but rather be in a detached house.
Equus said:
You're misunderstanding the concept of thermal mass.
It doesn't (in itself) affect the rate of heat loss.
It affects the rate of change of internal temperature in response to a change in energy input.
Think of it as the difference between speed and acceleration: a lightweight car will accelerate quicker for a given engine power, but its top speed and steady-state fuel consumption (which are governed by rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag, not weight for the car; governed by U-value, not themal mass, for a building) remain pretty much identical.
You can have a very low thermal mass building (timber frame or SIPs) which retains heat very well indeed. Too well, in some cases, in fact - they tend to suffer from excessive solar gain in summer.
So the upshot is in winter you leave the heating on, just don't let the house get cold. It doesn't (in itself) affect the rate of heat loss.
It affects the rate of change of internal temperature in response to a change in energy input.
Think of it as the difference between speed and acceleration: a lightweight car will accelerate quicker for a given engine power, but its top speed and steady-state fuel consumption (which are governed by rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag, not weight for the car; governed by U-value, not themal mass, for a building) remain pretty much identical.
You can have a very low thermal mass building (timber frame or SIPs) which retains heat very well indeed. Too well, in some cases, in fact - they tend to suffer from excessive solar gain in summer.
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