Driving to Japan

[21st Century Man]

A few years ago I had a drive to Japan planned, this was just before Covid/Putin and was surprisingly straightforward, with many online blogs and YouTube videos by people who had done it.

Dover-Calais, through Western and Eastern Europe into Russia, onto Moscow, then the Trans Siberian highway (now a ribbon of tarmac) all the way to Vladivostok, then the car ferry to Donghae South Korea and then onto Sakaiminato Japan.

Covid came along, and Putin kicked off, with subsequent sanctions, making the Russian leg rather difficult.

Alternative routes are problematic. I could go from Turkey through Iran and the Stans and into China, then the ferry from Shanghai to Japan, but I'm not allowed to drive my own vehicle through China without a paid chaperone to ride along, so paying for that and their food and board is expensive and no flexibility in my itinerary. It also wasn't permissible for a Brit to drive through Iran to get to the Stans.

However, it is now possible to drive through Iran, and I can get from the Stans into Russia, bypassing Europe and then continuing on to Vladivostok. It's also now possible to access banking and currency in Russia, so the trip appears to be doable.

There is currently no road crossing through Europe via Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Norway or Finland. I can get into Belarus but there are no border checks into Russia so it could be an illegal entry and/or possibly a refused entry if declared.

My research shows that the following may be possible though.

Through Western and Eastern Europe
Turkey
Iran
Turkmenistan
Uzbekistan
Kazakhstan
Russia, Vladivostok
Ferry to Donghae
Ferry from Busan to Fukuoka

I'm going to do some more research and may have a crack at it next year. I'm also following a blog by a couple of British lads of Indian background from London, currently planning a similar route in a UK vehicle.

Any advice would be appreciated, as well as discussion of the morality of engagement with Russia in the current climate? If I can cross the border from Kazakhstan and obtain access to banking and a MIR card to pay for fuel, hotels, cash from ATM's etc.

Thank you for your interest.

Edited by 21st Century Man on Wednesday 10th April 22:35

[21st Century Man]

GT03ROB said:

Consider also Turkey -> Georgia -> Azerbaijan -> Ferry to Kazakhstan

Avoids Iran. Turkmenistan is not hospitable either.

Thanks for that, really helpful. I hadn't considered there was a ferry to do that across the Caspian.

[21st Century Man]

GT03ROB said:

I regularly go from the Atyrau on the Caspian to Aksai up near the Russian border. It’s around 600-700km.

I just looked at that route. Great to hear from someone with experience.

[21st Century Man]

Bill said:

https://www.koreakonsult.com/easternDreamCruise_en... This suggests the Japan leg of the ferry isn't running any more.

There are a number of routes, on and off. Currently the Sakaiminato is off.

Vladivostok - Donghae is running, then Busan to Fukuoka.

Edited by 21st Century Man on Wednesday 10th April 19:11

[21st Century Man]

GT03ROB said:

If he misses Iran & Turkmenistan, then heads into China/mongolia no problem

Yes. Many thanks for that.

[21st Century Man]

I'll probably take it easy with no fixed schedule. The vehicle is suitably rugged and reliable, easy to fix with a hammer, high ground clearance, leaf springs and beam axle, my LDV Convoy minibus campervan conversion. It can stay in Japan for a year on the carnet, so I'll probably tour around a bit then leave it at my boy's house and do the return leg the following year.

[21st Century Man]

RichFN2 said:

Not sure if you have seen the journey on YouTube, but someone called Spaghetti Road drove from Denmark to China and went through most of the countries you will need to consider as an option.

Thanks for that, will watch.

Just finished. It was pretty much as I expected, extreme hospitality in Iran, and a ready stash of petty cash in dollars to help and support the administrators and the Police in the Stans

Edited by 21st Century Man on Wednesday 10th April 21:47

[21st Century Man]

smithyithy said:

OP have you considered flying directly to Japan?

Yeah, I've done that a few times, but it's no fun!

I'm getting on a bit now and I want one last big adventure before I die.

[21st Century Man]

I have no concerns about Iran. Loving the irony that entry may exclude me from the land of the free, but I am going to have to look into that and give it consideration.

Russia is the biggy, morally and practically. I had zero concerns a few years ago, but there is a war on now. However International tourism by Westerners still seems to be going on, surprisingly.

[21st Century Man]

LRDefender said:

The border between Georgia & Russia is open, I was there (on the Georgian side) a couple of months ago and everything appeared quite normal. I use the Military Road from Tbilisi and stay well clear of South Ossetia & Abkhazia.

Only you can decide whether travelling across Russia is acceptable. Western travellers are entering Russia atm and those I’ve spoken to have experienced no problems with the locals. Russians have told me that infrastructure outside the main cities isn’t being repaired or maintained well. I believe foreigners can get the relevant entry permits/paperwork in Yerevan to enter Russia.

Noted, thanks.

If it's possible, doing the bulk of the trip on the trans Siberian highway is by far the easiest way, it certainly was until the war, an absolute doddle even, but war is a pretty significant change in circumstance.

[21st Century Man]

https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/englis...

[21st Century Man]

The reason for Japan as a destination is that my son lives there and I'm a bit of a Japanophile of late. Shipping to the USA, driving East to West, then shipping across the Pacific would be a great trip, but so expensive and not the trip I'm looking for, ditto Cape to Cape Norway to Africa or the Pan Americana Alaska to Argentina. The destination and adventure is Japan. Thanks for the other suggestions, but they're unconnected, way off piste

[21st Century Man]

ecsrobin said:

What’s the cost of a chaperone in the countries going east that require them?

Just China.

I haven't had a detailed quote. But it's going to be a guide, their hotels, meals and probably some other of their expenses along the way for maybe 3-5 weeks, vehicle has to be temporarily registered in China with Chinese plates and I'll need to get a Chinese drivers license as UK/International not valid, plus a detailed itinerary, day by day, stop by stop, with little to no room for deviation. That's got to add up? It's not entirely out of the question, and would be very interesting and might be great fun, with the right guide, although they'd probably be changed region by region.

I've found some costs, I doubt I'd have much change from £10k. Solo it's a no go.

Edited by 21st Century Man on Sunday 14th April 15:20

[21st Century Man]

21st Century Man said:

LRDefender said:

The border between Georgia & Russia is open, I was there (on the Georgian side) a couple of months ago and everything appeared quite normal. I use the Military Road from Tbilisi and stay well clear of South Ossetia & Abkhazia.

Only you can decide whether travelling across Russia is acceptable. Western travellers are entering Russia atm and those I’ve spoken to have experienced no problems with the locals. Russians have told me that infrastructure outside the main cities isn’t being repaired or maintained well. I believe foreigners can get the relevant entry permits/paperwork in Yerevan to enter Russia.

Noted, thanks.

If it's possible, doing the bulk of the trip on the trans Siberian highway is by far the easiest way, it certainly was until the war, an absolute doddle even, but war is a pretty significant change in circumstance.

Bumping this as I've been looking into this crossing (Kazbegi - Vladikavkaz) and I've disappeared down a rabbit hole of websites, resources and very recent blogs that couldn't be more different to the perception or the narrative. It seems the worst thing is hanging around for hours, the toilets, and having to unload ones vehicle onto the dirty dirt.

Thanks LRD, this may well be the route, following the Trans Siberian as per my original plan.

Edited by 21st Century Man on Sunday 14th April 11:19

[21st Century Man]

LRDefender said:

Feel free to ask any questions regarding this region you may have.

Thanks.

It seems that the practical challenges are achievable, it's the moral issue of whether to cross Russia or not that I'm going to have to grapple with.

[21st Century Man]

C-J said:

Ps. If the photo shows your reg, that might be a another challenge in some of the countries that you are visiting - flashbacks to Top Gear and Argentina!

Yes, I'd thought of that

I'll be putting that on retention and El Divvy will go back onto the original 03 plate.

[21st Century Man]

I seem to have disappeared down a rabbit hole and come out in a parallel universe when it comes to this overlanding thing. Just this afternoon I've been reading recent accounts of transits from Georgia into Russia, then onto usually Kazakhstan and mongolia or deeper into Russia. A French lady and her young daughter in a Bongo Freindee, an American family in a Unimog campervan, a Brit couple in a brand new Ineos Grenadier, dozens and dozens of bikers from all over Europe, solo or in groups, an American biker who got his visa last month in Delhi and has ridden from India. Hotel/Campsite recommendations for a first stop over in Russia, best place for a pizza. best SIM, best place to change Euros/Dollars. I've even read an account of where to find coconut bricks for composting toilets. If you're that ethical wtf are you doing in Russia?

I can't get my head around it.

[21st Century Man]

Pistonheads won't let me capitalise mongolia.

[21st Century Man]

I understood that border to have recently been closed? For renovations, or to keep potential conscripts in? I'll check.

I'm unsure about Russia anyway, as I've said, not practicalities, but moralities. Not that I make a difference.

[21st Century Man]

CharlesdeGaulle said:

LRDefender said:

Only you can decide whether travel in Russia is ethical or not.

I’m currently sat with 2 Tartar women discussing Russian politics and life there. Don’t underestimate how the average Russian views their mafia rulers.

Once you get away from the Moscow sphere life is very different for many/most people living in Russia. Most are very resentful of the way the gov sucks money away from the regions and into Moscow. Independence for the many Republics is a much discussed subject…. Travelling across the country will enable you to have a greater understanding of a very complex situation. I’m very anti Putin and wouldn’t travel there due to my social media presence, not because of my dislike of the people.

Just to add your bank cards won’t work there.

Good post, and nice to have a more local perspective.

Yes.

CharlesdeGaulle said:

21st Century Man said:

I'm unsure about Russia anyway, as I've said, not practicalities, but moralities. Not that I make a difference.

I think one person does make a difference. I said it earlier, but I couldn't ignore the situation with Russia and would have to boycott that route. Possibly meaningless to many, but that moral judgement is important to me.

It is to me too, so I value your input. I know what my heart says.