Clutch slave cylinder bleed

[President Merkin]

I'm having a tricky time getting this job right. MOT guy noted helpfully that my clutch slave cylinder was leaking. I've replaced it & bled it sufficiently to a working pedal. However, I have a very low biting point now, abiiut an inch off the floor & noticeably lower than previously. So I clearly still have air in the system & will have to go back to the job.

I'm using a pressure bleeder & the recommended technique on this car (R53 Mini Cooper S) is to compress the piston which I have done with a jig made up of a couple of long bolts & a bit of wood. It's a bit of a pain in that the only way to test is remove the jig & refit to the car, so if it's incomplete then you have to start from scratch. I will get there with it but after three bleeds & no observable bubbles, it's still not right so I'm asking for any tips & tricks from the old hands I may have missed or could try please.

Bled with the cyclinder angled up toward the bleed screw, tapped the cylinder with a spanner during bleeding etc. Have seen someone suggest wedging the clutch pedal fully depressed & leaving it overnight but not sure of the logic of that?

[President Merkin]

Working solo, so not in a position do do that & don't have the wherewithal to reverse bleed it, Looks like persevering until it's right is on the cards.

[President Merkin]

Hard to say really. The MC is behind the pedal & the SC bolted to the outside of the bell housing. My view is they're roughly the same level, so I've consequently discounted the idea of a gravity bleed. I think on balance it's a case of repeating the bleed until the pedal comes back to normal. Like you say just a bit of an awkward job full stop.