Central Locking problem. Looking for DIY solution.

Central Locking problem. Looking for DIY solution.

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BadBanshee

Original Poster:

650 posts

138 months

Monday 14th January 2013
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Got a problem with my central locking: When I want to lock the car I have to lean over to the passenger door and press the lock before I get out, then press the lock on my remote.

When I press unlock on my remote, all the doors unlock. However, when I press lock on my remote, only the driver's door and boot lid lock but not the passenger door.

Obviously the central locking is working somewhat because the passenger door unlocks but it doesn't lock for some reason.

I'm wondering how I would go about diagnosing the problem? Is it likely to be something that needs replacing or just fixing into place again like a switch that has been turned off somewhere? Also where would I be looking to try and fix the problem? I was thinking of taking the door panels off on the passenger side to get to the lock mechanism.

Thanks in advance.

BadBanshee

Original Poster:

650 posts

138 months

Monday 14th January 2013
quotequote all
Codswallop said:
Have you tried the first rule of fixing anything?

Turn it off, and then on again. By which I mean, lock all the doors/ the car, and disconnect the battery. Leave for 10-15 minutes, and reconnect (make sure you have the radio code etc beforehand).

It fixed my central locking when it got out of sync on an old Ford at least :shrug:
I got the battery changed recently, not to fix this problem, but because it was flat anyway. Funnily enough, though, that fixed my fuel gauge.


BadBanshee

Original Poster:

650 posts

138 months

Monday 14th January 2013
quotequote all
miniman said:
I would guess at the solenoid, which is indeed inside the door and looks like this:



Tip: arm yourself with some replacement door card clips as I find it virtually impossible to remove them without breaking them. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOOR-CARD-PANEL-TRIM-CLI...
How would I know if the solenoid has stopped working?

BadBanshee

Original Poster:

650 posts

138 months

Monday 14th January 2013
quotequote all
Mr AJ said:
Probably not a solution in your case but my focus did a similiar thing when we was out shopping, Had to lock the passenger door manually or the entire central locking circuit would just lock then unlock itself straight away.

Was at the end of a particularly stressful day so i booted the door (It's already covered in dents anyway!) resulting in a barage of "What the fk did you do that for you fking idiot blah blah blah" from the Mrs - Which only worsened when i tried to lock on the fob again and it locked fine first time and has been good ever since!.

Have you tried taking the door cards off and having a poke around inside? Everytime my CL has failed its been something stupid like a control cable slipping off a solenoid*. Edit: Re-reading the post no you havent! So take the door panels off and have a look!

*Disclaimer: I am in no way mechanically minded and may be using the wrong words to describe this. I just tend to hit things and fiddle with them until it works or breaks beyond repair, As demonstrated above.
I thought that technique only worked on old TVs!

BadBanshee

Original Poster:

650 posts

138 months

Monday 14th January 2013
quotequote all
GreigM said:
the door would stop locking - common symptom of solenoid failure....
And even if the door DOES unlock with the remote, the solenoid could still be faulty?

BadBanshee

Original Poster:

650 posts

138 months

Tuesday 15th January 2013
quotequote all
Is it an easy job swapping over the solenoids? And what am I looking for if I do this?

Just seems odd that the central locking works perfectly in one sense (unlocking) but not in another. Obviously there's something different controlling the locking to the unlocking. And I'm guessing the solenoid is for both, so that should be fine.

BadBanshee

Original Poster:

650 posts

138 months

Tuesday 15th January 2013
quotequote all
Krikkit said:
Not necessarily - the action for opening the lock is a bit easier than closing it. As far as replacement goes, grab a Haynes manual, everything's covered in there. Not too bad a job, but it is a bit fiddly inside the door.
Haynes manual faultfinder tells me "latch locks but will not unlock or unlocks but will not lock" could be either faulty master switch, broken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers, faulty relay, or faulty control unit.

It then refers me to chapters in the book where I can find those things. But the information regarding them are for removal and refitting of said components. No information about actually diagnosing the components. I might have a poke (if I can find my screwdriver. I have precision screwdrivers, will that work?) but it'll probably just be like looking at a bowl of spaghetti to me. I'll take some pictures at least.

BadBanshee

Original Poster:

650 posts

138 months

Tuesday 15th January 2013
quotequote all
I'm hoping for the bit of tape solution so bad lol. My precision torx screwdriver unscrewed the door panel but the arm rest has bigger torx screws so I'm on the hunt to expand my toolkit.

doogz, me saying I want to be a mechanic falsely suggests I'm an amateur at the moment. But I'm still at that stage where I think cars are magic biggrin

BadBanshee

Original Poster:

650 posts

138 months

Tuesday 15th January 2013
quotequote all
Captain Muppet said:
Once you have the door card off look, at the bits inside the door when you press the central locking button to lock and then unlock the door. Maybe take the driver's door to bits too, to see how a working one works.

If a linkage is stuck, broken or wonky you should be able to see it trying to work and how to fix it.

If nothing happens at all try swapping the solenoid on the driver's side. If that works then it's the solenoid that's duff.

If nothing happens after this it's wiring, and that's all magic to me (so I'd get a multimeter out and try chasing the wiring until I find out it's the bit of wiring that goes through the door as this bit tends to wear out first, or a corroded connector somewhere).
Thanks I'll take that on board. What do I need to swap the solenoids if it comes to that? Is it a soldering job?

Appreciate everyone's advice btw, thanks all!