Advice - brake line snapped

[petrolheed]

Changing the lines on the M3 and have had quite an issue with them. Basically I started to loosen the coupling (top side - 11mm) and it was turning the whole line rather than just the couple/ nut itself.

Result being - one snapped off entirely as it looked like it was rotating but was actually twisting right at nut and the other two I try have twisted the line 1/4 turn. I tried holding the hard line with vice grips but no luck.

I was using the right tools and technique Im sure as the first one I did worked fine.

What are my options?

[petrolheed]

It already has snapped on one, and twisted line on others.

[petrolheed]

I WD40'd the hell out of them first.

This is an e92 M3 2008 with 24k miles btw...

How much of a bd is it going to be replacing the lines - particularly the rear - is it full from front to rear?

[petrolheed]

Not sure that there will be any room in the arch to work with a tool like that.

Cant I just cut the pipe and replace the coupling / union as pictured on to the existing line?

[petrolheed]

As you can see this one broke right at the nut so just the length of the coupling here, the two rears that twisted are more like maybe 100mm max to get beyond twist.

[petrolheed]

Can any of you helpful lads advise me on where the first joints are on the e92, both front and rear.

Thanks for help so far btw. Noted on PlusGas - never heard of it before. Different league from WD40 then?

Edited by petrolheed on Sunday 12th April 16:50

[petrolheed]

This is what I have here right? and the idea would be to flare the end as pictured. Is that done by threading or by brute force? i.e.. am I to swing a hammer in there?




Most seem to be saying replace the lines. I'd rather not as it sounds a pita unless someone can tell / show other wise.

As this is to be a track toy (not race car) and road legal - do I have other options that OEM parts and fitting positions?

[petrolheed]

I am going to ask my dealer to price doing the job for me to weigh up my options. Don't think Im going to bother going the flaring route as it might not work right and I've still to replace lines.

Not sure where I've made out I dont/ didn't know what tools to use Chris?

[petrolheed]

Yeah I did there, brake pipe flaring is a new one to me. Don't think I'd be stuck replacing the lines though other than it be a fiddly bd and lack of a lift,

Could you give me an idea on labour time Chris? I get on well with my dealer and they look after my cars - local garages round here just don't work to my standards unfortunately.

[petrolheed]

Not sure what a garage would have done differently in this situation other than using a different rust remover.

Thanks for the input though Gary.

[petrolheed]

Yes, so it would have broken (most likely anyway) with them as well so Id still be in the same situation.

I'll get the car to the garage without any issues.

[petrolheed]

Thanks for the advice so far lads. Much obliged.

Spoke to my dealer - they also advise Kunifer so that's the route I'll go. They can bend and flange the pipe for me to fit and they are also going to price doing the lot for me.

The mess made on the nut was me in frustration try to separate the two ONCE it was removed from the car. I had to put it in the vice and use a punch and hammer. Well stuck for sure.

Can anyone comment on where the pipes join at rear? There's a flexi pipe there so I'm assuming it's the rear side of the tank and this I shouldn't need to worry about lowering it.