Expensive vs cheap oil
Discussion
I dont understand, why do people fork out extra for Castrol, Shell, Comma etc.
Wilko's own brand or Asda's own brand will be just as good, minus a few cleaning agents the competition might give.
It all must come from the same refinery, unless ASDA has its very own oil refinery for its oil. The expensive brands just add things to it, but your basic bog standard 10w40 will be exactly the same raw oil as any other brand.
Why pay more?
Wilko's own brand or Asda's own brand will be just as good, minus a few cleaning agents the competition might give.
It all must come from the same refinery, unless ASDA has its very own oil refinery for its oil. The expensive brands just add things to it, but your basic bog standard 10w40 will be exactly the same raw oil as any other brand.
Why pay more?
PhillipM said:
Because, a) This bit is wrong, a large part of the oil is the base stock quality and selection, and b) those extra's you refer to are called add-packs, and whilst they may only make up a few percent of the oil's makeup, they're very important in terms of performance.
What performance? All oil needs to do is lubricate and prevent overheating. Has a car ever failed on a life long diet of Asda own brand oil? I'd love to see evidence of this. Not a troll thread at all, funny that the only idiots claiming troll are the ones with zero argument on the subjectPhillipM said:
What performance? Oh only all the anti foaming, visosity modifying, EP, anti-wear, oxidation/acid formation prevention and friction reducing additives....
But still, if there's no difference, you won't mind running your car on Asda's finest frying oil to prove your point will you?
ALL oil sold has to meet quality regulations in the UK. But still, if there's no difference, you won't mind running your car on Asda's finest frying oil to prove your point will you?
Calling it frying oil is just ridiculous with no scientific proof that its any worse than any other brand.
PhillipM said:
If you check the bottle, you'll find that a lot of those specifications that the cheap oils 'have to meet' actually is worded more like:
'Performance level of an API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B3/B4, VW 502.00, 505.00, MB 229.3'
etc, etc.
It won't say it's actually certified to VW502.00 or Mercs regs, etc, because chances are it isn't. Buy a decent oil and it will say it's certified by Merc or VW, and it'll be on the manufacturers list for the certificate for it too.
5w-40 tells you very little, the grades are so wide one manufacturers 10w30 is the same as someone elses 5w-40, and it tells you nothing about how stable it is, or how it's going shear down or age in use.
Interesting thanks, didn't know that.'Performance level of an API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B3/B4, VW 502.00, 505.00, MB 229.3'
etc, etc.
It won't say it's actually certified to VW502.00 or Mercs regs, etc, because chances are it isn't. Buy a decent oil and it will say it's certified by Merc or VW, and it'll be on the manufacturers list for the certificate for it too.
5w-40 tells you very little, the grades are so wide one manufacturers 10w30 is the same as someone elses 5w-40, and it tells you nothing about how stable it is, or how it's going shear down or age in use.
Though anything certified by Mercedes is probably a bad thing
J4CKO said:
I suspect the Wilkos stuff, in a basic petrol engine will be fine, change it once a year or every 10,000 and the engine will last as long as the car.
The main things are warming an engine up, a degree of mechanical sympathy and clean oil on a fairly regular basis, whether its Mobil One or Discount shop own brand isnt really going to make that much difference on say 1 1.6 Focus, on an M5 it may make a difference but it probably wont be what finishes the car off, usually rust, accident, random unrelated failure like a cam belt or just being knackered.
Engines generally dont fail based on grade/quality of oil changed to schedule.
I say that with a few caveats, turbos usually need some kind of synthetic and spending more isnt going to do any harm but spending less might do, it might be the difference between an engine doing 250k and 300k, i.e. largely academic for most cars.
That was what i thought, thanks for an educated response instead of calling troll for a reasonable question.The main things are warming an engine up, a degree of mechanical sympathy and clean oil on a fairly regular basis, whether its Mobil One or Discount shop own brand isnt really going to make that much difference on say 1 1.6 Focus, on an M5 it may make a difference but it probably wont be what finishes the car off, usually rust, accident, random unrelated failure like a cam belt or just being knackered.
Engines generally dont fail based on grade/quality of oil changed to schedule.
I say that with a few caveats, turbos usually need some kind of synthetic and spending more isnt going to do any harm but spending less might do, it might be the difference between an engine doing 250k and 300k, i.e. largely academic for most cars.
I expect some more expensive oils may claim to last longer before breaking down into piss thin water, but if you change oil every 6k or so i cant see how it would be a problem
funkyrobot said:
Indeed. You had better step away from that mirror.
Anyway, your mum needs her computer now for that webcam stuff she does, and it's school in the morning. Off you toddle.
An adult male with a bad back dishing out mum insults. I sincerely hope you don't represent a typical PH member. Thanks for the chuckle though palAnyway, your mum needs her computer now for that webcam stuff she does, and it's school in the morning. Off you toddle.
Heaveho said:
Oil of Ulay's what you need, I mean, if it's called oil, it must be ok? Or does it work out as too expensive? Plus, they probably only do it in one viscosity. Hmmm. Er, fish oil, that's cheap. Or why not just use engine oil that's been drained out of someone else's car? Probably get that for nowt? No point in spending anything if you don't need to, right? It's not like an engine is difficult or expensive to fix if it goes bang, so why worry? Plus, once you've put oil in it once, why would you consider the need to replace it? It's just more oil......might as well leave the original in.
Anyway, I've decided you're probably right.
Excellent post on the differences between supermarket 10w40 Vs named brands, you must work at Halfords to know so much.Anyway, I've decided you're probably right.
Edited by Heaveho on Wednesday 10th February 23:16
Are you also going to tell me you gained 10mpg using Shell petrol instead of Tesco?
Spanglepants said:
Can you say why? I'm just curious as I had a car that went through 3 turbos in 5 years. Up until i replaced the final turbo it had been run on Mobil 1. Not saying there a connection as i have no proof or idea but switched to Shell Helix after that with no problems.
How often did you change the oil? Did you read on forums after the first turbo went if its a common issue with that car?heebeegeetee said:
I tell customers to buy a brand ([b]I don't advise buying Mobil 1 though;[b/] ) I tell customers to avoid supermarket oils. Until I see evidence that I'm wrong that's what I'll continue to do.
DonkeyApple said:
I think this thread could be genuinely beneficial if there were any actual facts out there to support claims that cheap oils will not allow the engine to last the useable lifetime of the vehicle.
Has a car ever failed due to a poor quality oil? I've never heard of it. Has a car failed due to lack of servicing? Sure. Skimp on oil change intervals and pay the price.
The arguement that garages need to protect themselves so they only provide good quality oil. Well ASDA, Halfords etc have to maintain a reputation too. Dont think Halfords would take kindly to a Watchdog episode of customers complaining that their own brand oil seized their engine.
Has yet to happen though
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