Repair or punt - what would you do?
Poll: Repair or punt - what would you do?
Total Members Polled: 76
Discussion
Looking for some perspective here.
In June, I bought a 2005 EP3 Civic Type R (AC model, if it makes a difference)
Car’s in Cosmic Grey, which seems to be the most desirable colour, is in tremendous overall condition, with a few interesting bits on it. Car is now on 97k, with very comprehensive service history.
I bought the car for 4350, which I think was a bit over the odds, but I was willing to pay the premium based on the condition, bits and history.
Ok, my conundrum is thus - since buying the car, it’s became obvious that the gearbox synchros need replaced, and since the gearbox would already be out, it would make sense to replace the clutch – bill will be c£780ish.
I’ve already spent £260 getting a couple of gaskets replaced and the geometry setup properly. My issue is that I don’t think the car is “worth” spending an extra 780 quid on. It’s only an EP3 after all.
So my options are to either sell it priced to take the above into account or get the synchros done and risk an even bigger hit at resale next year.
Currently, I’m leaning towards punting it now and cutting my losses. The car was only supposed to be an itch-scratch, and I really don’t see the value in getting it repaired. However, maybe I’m wrong in that, so hence the question
To be clear, it’s not a question of affordability, rather, it’s a question of value…
Any thoughts?
In June, I bought a 2005 EP3 Civic Type R (AC model, if it makes a difference)
Car’s in Cosmic Grey, which seems to be the most desirable colour, is in tremendous overall condition, with a few interesting bits on it. Car is now on 97k, with very comprehensive service history.
I bought the car for 4350, which I think was a bit over the odds, but I was willing to pay the premium based on the condition, bits and history.
Ok, my conundrum is thus - since buying the car, it’s became obvious that the gearbox synchros need replaced, and since the gearbox would already be out, it would make sense to replace the clutch – bill will be c£780ish.
I’ve already spent £260 getting a couple of gaskets replaced and the geometry setup properly. My issue is that I don’t think the car is “worth” spending an extra 780 quid on. It’s only an EP3 after all.
So my options are to either sell it priced to take the above into account or get the synchros done and risk an even bigger hit at resale next year.
Currently, I’m leaning towards punting it now and cutting my losses. The car was only supposed to be an itch-scratch, and I really don’t see the value in getting it repaired. However, maybe I’m wrong in that, so hence the question
To be clear, it’s not a question of affordability, rather, it’s a question of value…
Any thoughts?
bearman3784 said:
TheJimi said:
To be fair it's not "knackered" - the car is fully drivable, the issue only really becomes apparent when changing gears at high revs, ie top end of the rev range in VTEC. Otherwise, you'd never know.
Thanks for the feedback all, good to get some different perspectives.
That just sounds like the clutch needs replacingThanks for the feedback all, good to get some different perspectives.
Changing up at high revs, beyond vtec engagement (yo!) is a bit difficult and requires a slight pause and a positive movement to overcome the "notch".
While in-gear, in third gear in particular, it's a bit too easy to knock it out of gear. It doesn't jump out of gear itself, but there's little to no resistance.
All of which points towards gear selection & retention issues, ergo, worn synchros. It's on the original clutch, so yes, that probably isn't helping matters and changing the clutch alone would probably make quite a difference, but given the labour charges, simply changing the clutch alone is a bit of a gamble if, after it's put together again, it transpires that the gearbox does indeed need to be done.
The only thing that's confusing me a bit is that I'm getting conflicted advice as to whether or not I need the baulk rings as well as the synchros; one specialist is pretty adamant that baulk rings are needed, whereas the other specialist is says "95% of the time, the original baulk rings can be re-used and just the synchros are replaced"
Both specialists are extremely highly regarded in the community, so I suspect that it's just a difference in approach.
jhonn said:
Have you tried changing your transmission oil? not sure what your car takes but I do know if you use the wrong grade (e.g. GL5 instead of GL4) it can affect the white metal in the synchros.
I've had great results with Castrol Syntrax full synthetic - it completely cured the notchiness I had in a Jeep transmission.
It's pricy, but not as expensive as a gearbox rebuild.
Yep, gearbox oil was changed, in the hope that it would make a difference. It did, but not enough, unfortunately!I've had great results with Castrol Syntrax full synthetic - it completely cured the notchiness I had in a Jeep transmission.
It's pricy, but not as expensive as a gearbox rebuild.
Been chewing this over.
Just to update, I've decided to punt.
Here's why:
Purchase price: £4,350
Spend to date: £260
***************************
Potential repair bill: c£788
Potential overall spend: c£5,400
**************************
Of which, I'd be lucky to get c4k at resale next year, so repairing it doesn't make logical sense.
Ergo, I'm selling it now and taking the hit, rather than taking an even bigger hit later on.
Just to update, I've decided to punt.
Here's why:
Purchase price: £4,350
Spend to date: £260
***************************
Potential repair bill: c£788
Potential overall spend: c£5,400
**************************
Of which, I'd be lucky to get c4k at resale next year, so repairing it doesn't make logical sense.
Ergo, I'm selling it now and taking the hit, rather than taking an even bigger hit later on.
SuperHangOn said:
The vast majority of ten year old cars for sale will need some money spent. Selling is pointless and uneconomical because you will lose more on the sale than the repair. Plus the hassle finding a replacement and selling.
If I repair it, I'll have spent c£5.4k on a what is realistically a 4k car, that I bought two months ago. I'd be VERY lucky to get £4k back on it, if I kept it a year. Meaning, I'd be looking at a minimum of a 1,400 quid loss.
If I punt it now, for say, £3.6k, I'll restrict my losses to a £1k, which I can swallow.
battered said:
TheJimi said:
If I repair it, I'll have spent c£5.4k on a what is realistically a 4k car, that I bought two months ago.
I'd be VERY lucky to get £4k back on it, if I kept it a year. Meaning, I'd be looking at a minimum of a 1,400 quid loss.
If I punt it now, for say, £3.6k, I'll restrict my losses to a £1k, which I can swallow.
So losing £1k for 2 months' motoring is OK, but £1400 for a year isn't? How does that work?I'd be VERY lucky to get £4k back on it, if I kept it a year. Meaning, I'd be looking at a minimum of a 1,400 quid loss.
If I punt it now, for say, £3.6k, I'll restrict my losses to a £1k, which I can swallow.
I can't be talking total b
ks; 21% of you agree with me!SidewaysSi said:
Old cars cost money. Just pay and do it - don't sell it without telling a prospective buyer.
I am about to drop £5k into a £2k BMW but I keep my cars - don't see the point in chopping and changing too often.
I've already said numerous times on this thread that I wouldn't do that; not my style I am about to drop £5k into a £2k BMW but I keep my cars - don't see the point in chopping and changing too often.
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