Wiring in an extra washer motor

Wiring in an extra washer motor

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eltax91

Original Poster:

9,890 posts

207 months

Tuesday 23rd August 2016
quotequote all
Hi guys

For various reasons which I don't need to go into detail on, I need to wire in an additional washer motor.l and have it activated from the cabin. All we be ripped out in a few weeks time and when the car dies/ is replaced.

I have some wire, a rocker switch, an in line fuse holder, a generic pump and some pipe work, along with a pop bottle to store the fluid in. Also got some crimps and appropriate crimping tool.

So, wiring wise, do I simply go:-

Battery +ve > fuse > rocker > pump and then simply wire the other spade on the pump straight to the nearest suitable earth?

The generic pump doesn't appear to have any obvious marking for the +ve and -ve spades, and easy way to figure out which is which??

eltax91

Original Poster:

9,890 posts

207 months

Tuesday 23rd August 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for the advice everyone. This isn't specifically for a washer bottle. The fuel pump is dying on my brothers shed. Money expected end of September for new shed.

The car is currently failing to start when left for more than 8 hours or so, but goes on easy start and runs forever no prob, starts fine warm too. Almost like there's air getting in the system. But everything has been tried to resolve and a pump is the now diagnosis.

So, this little Heath Robinson gig is to pump diesel into the intake for a blip when cranking to get fuel into the mix and get it going. hehe

eltax91

Original Poster:

9,890 posts

207 months

Tuesday 23rd August 2016
quotequote all
spookly said:
Also make sure it is the right kind of switch.

You probably want a momentary NO (Normally open). This would have only two connections on it, and only passes current with the switch depressed and springs back when released.

If you accidentally use/buy a NC (normally closed) switch it will run until you hit the switch biggrin
The rocker was rescued from an old tyre inflator, so is closed until thrown. Rather than it being a push to make/ break switch.

eltax91

Original Poster:

9,890 posts

207 months

Wednesday 24th August 2016
quotequote all
Ok chaps, not my suggestion, but one arrived at by the mechanic who diagnosed the faulty pump. I had sort of took it at face value.

Guess we had better get back to the drawing board.

For the sanctimonious among you, talking about cheap bodges, the fuel pump is a £300 plus Job at a garage, the car was purchased as a stop gap for around that sort of money anyway. It's going to be striped for bits in around 6 weeks, just needs to go until then.

If you read my previous threads you will found one asking about possible causes. All the cheap stuff has been tried, so a small wedge has been thrown at fixing it, which has not proven successful, so not at all as black and white as you are making out.

eltax91

Original Poster:

9,890 posts

207 months

Wednesday 24th August 2016
quotequote all
amstrange1 said:
Continue with using the easy start for 6 weeks?
This is an option. But 5am starts for the owner and dragging his Mrs up to turn while he sprays is getting tiresome. hehe

Air intake is front pax side so can't reach to do both.

As far as the garage goes, another opinion but sought. Car is a zafira DTi which is famous evidently for fuel pumps. As all the other common stuff has been done, several garages have suggested fuel pump

eltax91

Original Poster:

9,890 posts

207 months

Wednesday 24th August 2016
quotequote all
Toaster Pilot said:
What car is it and is it really that knackered that chucking in a used working fuel pump isn't worthwhile?
£200 for the pump and pay to fit it. Not a cheap gig given it needs to last 6 weeks

eltax91

Original Poster:

9,890 posts

207 months

Wednesday 24th August 2016
quotequote all
OldGermanHeaps said:
Non return valve spliced into the fuel supply line?
And yes, you need a better mechanic if he suggested that, thats tempting death material. Is his fix for perished flexis to paint them with tyre paint?
If its just draining back to the tank it is either aleak in the feed, return or bleed off pipework, or a seal or failing non return valve on the lift pump or filter head, an easy fix without replacing the pump, sealkits are available for mostly anything and diesel pumps on ebay start at £30
NRV is most definitely being fitted this weekend. Was going to be along with this bodge but looks like it will be the only thing we try. hehe

All the garages asked have, to a man, suggested a NRV won't work, it will be the pump (after telling them all the cheap stuff that has been done)

eltax91

Original Poster:

9,890 posts

207 months

Wednesday 24th August 2016
quotequote all
Toaster Pilot said:
eltax91 said:
£200 for the pump and pay to fit it. Not a cheap gig given it needs to last 6 weeks
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIESEL-PUMP-VECTRA-B-2-0-DTI-ASTRA-ZAFIRA-0470504011-/401129448529?hash=item5d652da451:g:SAQAAOSwQaJXTaTC

Not that hard to fit surely
From what I understand you have to take a whole load of stuff out of the zafira to get to it. My brother has found the pump and the number form it, I don't have it to hand, but matching the part number on ebay or with the breakers yields £200+ asking prices. If you don't match the code, there's a host of forum posters saying you need to code the cars ecu to the new pump.

Interestingly, i'm not myself 100% convinced it's the pump as it throws NO fault codes, and so many people have suggested when the pump goes it throws a code. The fact it runs fine for hours and then stops makes me wonder if it's air leaking in somehow.

the one thing we cant seem to figure out is what the ID of the fuel pipe is from tank to filter, so finding it hard to get the right NRV!!

eltax91

Original Poster:

9,890 posts

207 months

Wednesday 24th August 2016
quotequote all
Toaster Pilot said:
That's why that one comes with key and ECU I assume to avoid coding
scratchchin

Will send it to the little bro