Setting up coilovers properly ?
Discussion
I've just been spending some time cleaning up my coilovers and making sure they are ok (bit ragged but will do for now).
I do have a friend who could possibly help but I don't wanna keep hassling them especially as this isn't a quick job.
I'm just wondering who in Surrey (ideally) I could go to, to have them set up correctly ?
I do have a friend who could possibly help but I don't wanna keep hassling them especially as this isn't a quick job.
I'm just wondering who in Surrey (ideally) I could go to, to have them set up correctly ?
Hi guys !
Cheers for the heads up on 'wheels in motion'.
I watched a few video's on youtube last night which have given me a better understanding of how to get it initially set up, and I'd need to get the alignment done again anyway.
I've got enough weights in the garage to simulate driver weight, so I'll give it a shot myself to start with, then either take it to my friend or someone like wheels in motion.
Cheers !
Cheers for the heads up on 'wheels in motion'.
I watched a few video's on youtube last night which have given me a better understanding of how to get it initially set up, and I'd need to get the alignment done again anyway.
I've got enough weights in the garage to simulate driver weight, so I'll give it a shot myself to start with, then either take it to my friend or someone like wheels in motion.
Cheers !
jon- said:
RobPhoboS said:
Just gave them a call to get a rough price (around £170ish), which includes the set up and alignment.
And a free adjustment once you've driven on the settings for a few weeks?I'm just pondering whether to fit them to the car today, or just keep the standard ones on for now and swap when I hit the track later on.
These are the coilovers I have:
http://www.buddyclubuk.com/damper-rsd.htm
And are the inverted kind, so the height adjustment is done from spinning the bottom sleeve.
I've decided to try them out again, and I'm going to start fitting them shortly.
First of all I'm going to align the height and the 'lower arm bar'? the same as the standard shocks, and will just test them out. As previously they were comically bouncy (turned out they were stupidly preloaded and the tyres were very very under-inflated), so I don't want that again !
Just out of curiosity, the rebound adjustment.
When I push the insert down, how quickly should it come back out ?
I only say this as I don't want to mess around with the rebound because I managed to break one of the knobs, which I'm hoping someone can weld back on. So I'm leaving them well alone!
http://www.buddyclubuk.com/damper-rsd.htm
And are the inverted kind, so the height adjustment is done from spinning the bottom sleeve.
I've decided to try them out again, and I'm going to start fitting them shortly.
First of all I'm going to align the height and the 'lower arm bar'? the same as the standard shocks, and will just test them out. As previously they were comically bouncy (turned out they were stupidly preloaded and the tyres were very very under-inflated), so I don't want that again !
Just out of curiosity, the rebound adjustment.
When I push the insert down, how quickly should it come back out ?
I only say this as I don't want to mess around with the rebound because I managed to break one of the knobs, which I'm hoping someone can weld back on. So I'm leaving them well alone!
I'm still not quite understanding the corner weight.(the car is a mk2 MR2 for reference)
What I was initially going to do was jack the car up, put it on axel stands, remove the standard suspension, align the coilovers to the same height ect, fix the coilovers back on via the top mounts, and lower the car by 35mm roughly (using a fixed point on the coilover to measure, count turns ect)
Then pop the wheels back on.
But I don't quite understand loading up the driver seat with weight, and how it will work with my inverted ones ?
What I was initially going to do was jack the car up, put it on axel stands, remove the standard suspension, align the coilovers to the same height ect, fix the coilovers back on via the top mounts, and lower the car by 35mm roughly (using a fixed point on the coilover to measure, count turns ect)
Then pop the wheels back on.
But I don't quite understand loading up the driver seat with weight, and how it will work with my inverted ones ?
Cheers Paul for the tips and info 
Unfortunately I had already started removing the standard ones before I saw this post, doh.
The height has nothing to do with the rebound or spring tension on my ones, its all separate. That's why I am a bit confused about corner weighting.
What I have done so far, is use a tape measure to make sure that the fronts are exactly the same (using a high point on the coilovers that isn't affected).
Edit:
Ah, now I think my brain is waking up a little bit.
Ok so at the moment I know that both are exactly the same height.
SO now, pop the weights into the drivers seat (which will compress the spring), take the measurement as you suggested (wheel arch/ground), then adjust the other side accordingly.
Got it.
I think.
Unfortunately I had already started removing the standard ones before I saw this post, doh.
Paul Drawmer said:
You will NOT be able to adjust the ride heights unless the car is back on the ground.
I can only adjust the height by removing the wheel, and taking the two large bolts which connect it to the back of the brake calliper assembly thingy (sorry don't know the exact name for that part), then I have to spin this piece up or down for height.The height has nothing to do with the rebound or spring tension on my ones, its all separate. That's why I am a bit confused about corner weighting.
What I have done so far, is use a tape measure to make sure that the fronts are exactly the same (using a high point on the coilovers that isn't affected).
Edit:
Ah, now I think my brain is waking up a little bit.
Ok so at the moment I know that both are exactly the same height.
SO now, pop the weights into the drivers seat (which will compress the spring), take the measurement as you suggested (wheel arch/ground), then adjust the other side accordingly.
Got it.
I think.
Edited by RobPhoboS on Sunday 18th January 18:07
elster said:
RobPhoboS said:
Hi guys !
Cheers for the heads up on 'wheels in motion'.
I watched a few video's on youtube last night which have given me a better understanding of how to get it initially set up, and I'd need to get the alignment done again anyway.
I've got enough weights in the garage to simulate driver weight, so I'll give it a shot myself to start with, then either take it to my friend or someone like wheels in motion.
Cheers !
I would definitely recommend Wheels In Motion. Also for what are you setting them up for?Cheers for the heads up on 'wheels in motion'.
I watched a few video's on youtube last night which have given me a better understanding of how to get it initially set up, and I'd need to get the alignment done again anyway.
I've got enough weights in the garage to simulate driver weight, so I'll give it a shot myself to start with, then either take it to my friend or someone like wheels in motion.
Cheers !
mat205125 said:
RobPhoboS said:
I'm still not quite understanding the corner weight.(the car is a mk2 MR2 for reference)
What I was initially going to do was jack the car up, put it on axel stands, remove the standard suspension, align the coilovers to the same height ect, fix the coilovers back on via the top mounts, and lower the car by 35mm roughly (using a fixed point on the coilover to measure, count turns ect)
Then pop the wheels back on.
But I don't quite understand loading up the driver seat with weight, and how it will work with my inverted ones ?
I always like to explain corner weighting with the analogy of a table with 4 legs where they are not all the same length. The longest legs are doing all of the supporting with the shorter legs wobbling and not taking as much load as the other two ... shortening the longest legs (wheels "weighing" the most on the corner scales) will pass load towards the shorter (lighter loaded wheels) legs.What I was initially going to do was jack the car up, put it on axel stands, remove the standard suspension, align the coilovers to the same height ect, fix the coilovers back on via the top mounts, and lower the car by 35mm roughly (using a fixed point on the coilover to measure, count turns ect)
Then pop the wheels back on.
But I don't quite understand loading up the driver seat with weight, and how it will work with my inverted ones ?
The idea is to balance your car so that L-R is equally balanced, and F-R is balance as the optimum that the layout will allow. Since all of us that are not named Flemke sit to the left or right of the centre line of the car, we want the car balanced as it will be used, i.e. with the sack of spuds in the drivers seat.
So it all stems from the first shock that I shorten to the height I want (with weights in the driver seat), and from there I adjust the rest of the others. I presume the rear's should be the same height from ground to wheel arch?
Just hoping I can adjust the damping as I THINK it's set to the softest setting, so that's going to cause a bit of bounce isn't it?
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Sorry for all of the questions but I'm certainly learning a lot ! (and hopefully saving a few £££ accept for the alignment).
Right well they are all on now, and tomorrow I'll start to adjust them properly.
Is it best to lower the front driver side as much as I require, then load the weights into the drivers seat, and work on the rear passenger side for height next ?
Main problem I have is that there isn't a flat surface here to do it.
Is it best to lower the front driver side as much as I require, then load the weights into the drivers seat, and work on the rear passenger side for height next ?
Main problem I have is that there isn't a flat surface here to do it.
mat205125 said:
RobPhoboS said:
RobPhoboS said:
Is it best to lower the front driver side as much as I require, then load the weights into the drivers seat, and work on the rear passenger side for height next ?
Can anyone confirm that ?The choice of whether to balance L/R by lowering the heavy corner, or raising the light corner, will depend on how you want/need to influence the F/R balance, and also your overall ride height .... Don't fall for the mistake that "in the weeds" handles best, especially on the road!
My one's have a separate adjustment bracket for height. And I'm not after the lowest lowest height, as obviously that can cause all kinds of problems.
The fronts are the same height as each other, and the rears are the same height as each other (at the moment).
The springs are 6k front, and 10k rear.
cocopop said:
A lot of this technical lingo is going way over my head, but I'd be interested to hear how you find Buddy Club's. I very nearly had a set on my car, but it's mainly road use, and I heard they were very firm.
Ended up with a set of Teins, which are ideal.
Oh, and another
for Wheels In Motion.
Yep, this are going to be pretty hard for the road, but it's not a daily car, so it doesn't bother me at all.Ended up with a set of Teins, which are ideal.
Oh, and another
for Wheels In Motion.I definitely cannot afford to go and see Wheels In Motion at the moment, which is annoying as that is the easy solution.
The alignment isn't a problem as I can slip a good friend some money so he can do it properly (he's working on an Enzo at the mo
).Hmm actually have a potential bigger problem that just setting it up. (Typical me)
A few weeks ago when I initially took them off, I bloody well managed to break one of the damper adjustment knobs.
I WAS actually trying to be careful with it, I thought it was locked with the allen key slot, so I gently undid it, and it came off.
Bugger.
I was hoping that I could perhaps use some liquid metal to just get it connected again but it doesn't seem to want to quite touch the other end of the shaft. Will get a photo to show exactly what's up.
So before I do anything else, I'd like to try and fix this bit before attempting anything else !
I may remove that particular shock and take it to a good garage near me, they said they may be able to help me out.
me = prat
A few weeks ago when I initially took them off, I bloody well managed to break one of the damper adjustment knobs.
I WAS actually trying to be careful with it, I thought it was locked with the allen key slot, so I gently undid it, and it came off.
Bugger.
I was hoping that I could perhaps use some liquid metal to just get it connected again but it doesn't seem to want to quite touch the other end of the shaft. Will get a photo to show exactly what's up.
So before I do anything else, I'd like to try and fix this bit before attempting anything else !
I may remove that particular shock and take it to a good garage near me, they said they may be able to help me out.
me = prat
I doubt anyone cares...BUT
I found this RX7 site, and has some basic info (like what we have on this thread) and a little more here and there.
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=600868
I found this RX7 site, and has some basic info (like what we have on this thread) and a little more here and there.
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=600868
Paul Drawmer said:
RobPhoboS said:
Main problem I have is that there isn't a flat surface here to do it.
I've just come back to this and read your post above.Give up now.
Take it to someone who can do it for you.
If you aren't on a level surface, you'll be chasing your tail for hours and hours, and it still won't be right.
I'm going to take the car up to my fathers place where there is some level ground, then after that I'll get it aligned just for now, as I can't afford W.i.M yet.
I have also contacted BC in the USA to see if they can refurbish the broken damper dial as well.
Well I went to Plans Motorsport today for a long old chat, and for their AMAZING suspension chap (Tom) to test the car out to see what needs doing.
Luckily nothing too major but main point is to send the units back to the USA or Japan for a small refurb to help prolong their life.
He said I'd done a fairly good job
Luckily nothing too major but main point is to send the units back to the USA or Japan for a small refurb to help prolong their life.
He said I'd done a fairly good job
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