Help please!!

[Quantum Steve]

Hi guys, looking for some help from the collective genius on the forum here....
Noble been up on stands since Christmas, floors off, inner panels out, painted, chassis and suspension painted, new rubbers fitted, new hoses, Protechs (thanks Tux!), wheels refurbished, new tyres, new battery when the floor was out, all back together but won't start....

Ignition on, push button on alarm fob, relay clicks then clicks again about 3 seconds later, no fuel pump noise though, starter turns but as no fuel wont start.
Taking the cables off the fuel pump and powering from a battery the pump runs fine and the car will start and run.

The car has had the fuel pump mod, there is a direct 20A fused supply from the battery to a relay in the engine bay passenger side powering the fuel pump. I checked the in line fuse, the holder was brown but the fuse looked OK but as the cable was just hanging on to the holder by one or two wires I thought this was the problem, stripped out this part of the loom and made a new section with a new fuse holder. No difference.

I'm stuck. If I hear the relay click on and off I guess the ECU is telling the pump to prime and then cut off so probably not ECU? If the fob button makes the relay click and the car will start with the pump powered I guess not alarm related?

It's cold standing in the garage trying to think what this might be.... Any help much appreciated.

[Quantum Steve]

Hi Zoo, to be honest I'm not sure - ran out of energy and warmth, the new relay is 4 pin, it's receiving power direct from the battery not sure where the output signal goes to or how the signal from the original bulkhead relay is used, is this a common mod? I'm guessing it's for an uprated fuel pump. Does seem like power not getting to the pump just not sure where to start tracing....

[Quantum Steve]

Hi Matt, cheers, that's a perfect answer, I'll go see what voltage I have where.

[Quantum Steve]

Thanks Matt. I'm only guessing the original relay is still in circuit, I'm assuming what I have is the fuel pump mod, do you know how this normally wired in? I have three pairs bound together by the new relay, a pair direct from the battery (+ and -), a pair feeding the pump and a pair that disappear down past the pump and out behind the fuel tank somewhere. Does this sound normal?

[Quantum Steve]

Thanks, yes, checked those as well, all fine. I'm a bit clearer after a good sleep, I'll get a replacement relay today to rule that out and set to with a meter to see what power is getting to where. Frustrating though, got a day at Castle Combe on Sunday and had hoped to get it all together and over there to set up the new Protechs and give it a shake down. I didn't want to get all the front and rear floors back on until I had a chance to run it up and make sure there are no leaks or issues.

[Quantum Steve]

Cheers Tux, tried that early on, pump works fine and the car starts easily. It just doesn't get power.

[Quantum Steve]

Thanks, just checked, on offer at £9.99 - just ordered one click and collect....

[Quantum Steve]

Thanks Andy, I'm hoping it's as simple as a relay. Just so I am clear does the ECU send a signal to an original (bulkhead mounted?) relay which fires up the original (lightweight) pump power supply and it's that power supply that switches the fuel pump mod relay to provide the power to the upgraded pump? Or is the ECU sending it's signal direct to the fuel pump mod relay? It's weird, I did 5500 miles in it last year, caned round all sorts of airfields and circuits, the only time it's had a problem was when it was not used for a couple of weeks and both times it was the pump not priming, both those times the 20A in line fuel pump fuse was melted.

[Quantum Steve]

That really is helpful. The pump mod was on it when I bought it and you are right - the original wiring looks pants. I had been working on the supply wiring to the mod relay and from there to the pump, however the relay I can hear is possibly the original one and perhaps I should be looking at the wiring from the original relay to the mod relay if that triggers it, it's that wiring that looks tatty. A 25A fuse sounds sensible too, lets see if I can get it to run at all first.....

[Quantum Steve]

Guys, as always thanks for the help on here, much appreciated, it makes a difference to be able to go through a problem and get so much useful advice. Took all the rear turbo hoses out, got the meter on the wiring from the standard relay feeding the original pump, no voltage for the 3 seconds after the alarm is off, pulled all the old wiring out, it was in a pickle, ran in a new set of temporary wires to trigger the relay, pump buzzed and it started and ran beautifully. A proper ballache to get to, I guess having all the floor, side panels and engine covers off for the winter sort out made access easier. I think she was just sad not being used for a while. Thanks again.....

[Quantum Steve]

On a mission now to get the floor, engine panels, clams, wheels etc. back on to get it ready for Combe Sunday and I have tickets for Twickers on Saturday - a couple of late nights I think.....

[Quantum Steve]

Hi Martin, yes, bought some solid rubber in strip. So, it's been back to a chassis front and back, painted, inner wings and panels stripped, painted, new rubbers, floors off and on, diffuser stripped, repaired, and painted, new heats shields throughout, new suspension, new wiring for the fuel pump (cheers for the help on here guys!), all reassembled - no go for Combe today though, the wheels were off for refurbishment and new tyres, got them Thursday, all the wheels had patches of poor finish, they had to strip them and have another go. So, went to get the Daytona (Triumph, not Ferrari..) out, battery flat for the first time ever so had to take the 1.0 Ecoboost Fiesta. Still, Noble should all be back on the road this week. Can't wait to try the new Protechs!