Discussion
Got this today and quite excited to be a Libra owner again, even if there will be a bit of cash and pain before I get to drive it 
It's a factory built 07 Libra with a 1.6 VTEC Honda motor, the running gear needs attention, all 4 corners will be refurbed, new bearings joints bushes whatever it needs and everything blasted and powder coated including the engine cradle. Needs new shocks, going to fit a Passat rad, wheels want powder coating and by the time I've done any bits of repairs etc and seen to some star crazing it'll need spraying.
Also the motor has likely done big miles (62k on car and doner Unknown) so I'm planning on getting a 1.8 b18c bottom end, throw some new bearings and rings gaskets etc at it, use the 1.6 head which I've found out is the same casting as the type R head and some type R cams/springs, get the ecu chipped with the right map. Should be good for 190hp+ then. Probably get a new exhaust made too.
Thankfully, whilst this sounds quite extensive a lot of the work is just hard graft. Car is nice inside and is generally finished off quite well being a factory built.
It's a factory built 07 Libra with a 1.6 VTEC Honda motor, the running gear needs attention, all 4 corners will be refurbed, new bearings joints bushes whatever it needs and everything blasted and powder coated including the engine cradle. Needs new shocks, going to fit a Passat rad, wheels want powder coating and by the time I've done any bits of repairs etc and seen to some star crazing it'll need spraying.
Also the motor has likely done big miles (62k on car and doner Unknown) so I'm planning on getting a 1.8 b18c bottom end, throw some new bearings and rings gaskets etc at it, use the 1.6 head which I've found out is the same casting as the type R head and some type R cams/springs, get the ecu chipped with the right map. Should be good for 190hp+ then. Probably get a new exhaust made too.
Thankfully, whilst this sounds quite extensive a lot of the work is just hard graft. Car is nice inside and is generally finished off quite well being a factory built.
downsman said:
Nice car
Maybe you could post pictures of progress for us. I don't know much about Libres apart from liking the styling.
Will do Maybe you could post pictures of progress for us. I don't know much about Libres apart from liking the styling.
Have found an integra type R bottom end, and valves (type R ones are wasted), also have a full type R inlet mani/TB and cams on the way for my head.
Need to order all new gaskets, bearings, rings and a clutch and that should be everything needed on the engine side of things barring the ECU chipping
Cheers mate
Ordered a load of bits, bearings rings gaskets etc... Integra Type R cams came today, collecting a full short motor on Sunday. Got the wasted valves and dual valve springs too to go in the head so it's all bang on.
Went through the manual and ordered all the bolts required for refitting the wishbones and engine cradle to the tub.
One thing I've been pondering tonight - what is best for protecting the engine cradle and all wishbones/mounts etc...
I was going to powdercoat, but I don't believe it's the best option. It has no real chemical bond to the metal and if chipped will just expose the untreated metal underneath. There could also be some clearance issues when refitting bits.. I've heard some very good things about POR15 and epoxy mastic paint, anyone have experience of these? I like the fact I could do it myself too and have access to a shot blaster.
Ordered a load of bits, bearings rings gaskets etc... Integra Type R cams came today, collecting a full short motor on Sunday. Got the wasted valves and dual valve springs too to go in the head so it's all bang on.
Went through the manual and ordered all the bolts required for refitting the wishbones and engine cradle to the tub.
One thing I've been pondering tonight - what is best for protecting the engine cradle and all wishbones/mounts etc...
I was going to powdercoat, but I don't believe it's the best option. It has no real chemical bond to the metal and if chipped will just expose the untreated metal underneath. There could also be some clearance issues when refitting bits.. I've heard some very good things about POR15 and epoxy mastic paint, anyone have experience of these? I like the fact I could do it myself too and have access to a shot blaster.
330p4 said:
Nice project I have always liked these cars but when I tried one the ride quality was awfull and it made pushing hard on bumpy roads a no no is this normal or was this just poor set up I am used to stiffly sprung cars but this rather put me off
Ian
Depends who built it, they're all different. My old one was fairly compliant. Hopefully this one will be too, nor gone for a mega stiff setup.Ian
Paul Drawmer said:
330p4 said:
Nice project I have always liked these cars but when I tried one the ride quality was awfull and it made pushing hard on bumpy roads a no no is this normal or was this just poor set up I am used to stiffly sprung cars but this rather put me off
Ian
The rear end of the original (ie NOT the Zcars type) rear suspension was extremely sensitive to set up. There were quite a few cars that had basic flaws in the rear end geometry that had stiff a/r bars and stiff springs in attempts to fix it, when they should have spent more time getting the static toe and camber correct at the rear.Ian
It was always going to be a 'pointy' car with lots of front end grip. A well set up Libra was very similar to a Mk1 Elise in handling, but even though the ride was good, it wasn't as good as the Elise.
Your site helped me the other day, ordered all the bits to do the passat rad. It's a good 6 years since I did the last one so it's good to have that info on the net!
I agree with your comments regarding setup, this is getting the standard 250lb front and 300lb rear springs and protech shocks (spoke to gaz and was horrified by the price, especially considering they're steel and no where near as nice as the protechs.) It does have ARBs though unlike my last one so it'll be interesting to see how that affects it.
When it's all up and running I think I'll get it all laser aligned properly. I was half temped to try and add some bracing to the rear wishbone mounts too, but at the same time I'm doing this all with it in mind that I'm not trying to make the car something it's not. With all new bushes, bearings, suspension and properly set up I'm sure it will be more than good enough for the road. The Libra isn't a track car but it does make a fantastic fast road/touring car, and that's all I have planned for it.
NotNormal said:
Yazza54 said:
I've heard some very good things about POR15 and epoxy mastic paint, anyone have experience of these?
Used POR15 on all my projects including my current one which is the rebuild of my Dax Rush. I stripped the entire chassis back to bare metal and 2 coats of POR15 have been applied. Biggest advantage is it's very durable and if you use the topcoat version it remedies the potential UV issue some people mention.NotNormal said:
I use brushing and yes it is a bit more long winded but still gives a decent finish as when it dries it smooth's out.
Close up pic below for you
Couple of handy pointers:
- Don't put it on too thick as it will run when drying
- Although touch dry after 6-12 hours it takes a few days to fully harden
- No need to worry about applying in cold and moist condition, it actually sets harder in this environment
- Avoid skin contact and certainly don't let it set on your skin (it seriously does not come off
)
- If you want to re-use the pot, make sure the sealing rim of the pot/lid is completely paint free (or put lid on with cling film or similar barrier) otherwise next time you come to use it the lid is stuck solid as the paint has dried and joined them together.
- Personally I don't bother trying to clean the brushes afterwards, price vs hassle it's just easier to work on the basis of throwing the brush away after use.
- Buying wise, I always get great service from Frosts
Thanks for thatClose up pic below for you
Couple of handy pointers:
- Don't put it on too thick as it will run when drying
- Although touch dry after 6-12 hours it takes a few days to fully harden
- No need to worry about applying in cold and moist condition, it actually sets harder in this environment
- Avoid skin contact and certainly don't let it set on your skin (it seriously does not come off
)- If you want to re-use the pot, make sure the sealing rim of the pot/lid is completely paint free (or put lid on with cling film or similar barrier) otherwise next time you come to use it the lid is stuck solid as the paint has dried and joined them together.
- Personally I don't bother trying to clean the brushes afterwards, price vs hassle it's just easier to work on the basis of throwing the brush away after use.
- Buying wise, I always get great service from Frosts
Edited by NotNormal on Thursday 25th February 11:58
The finish doesn't look bad either, I think the primary goal is to protect everything over aesthetics. I'd be more bothered if it was 7 style or exocet but more bothered about stopping any rust. Such a shame it wasn't kept on top of throughout the years... or just done properly from the factory in the first place.
A full new set of rear wishbones came with the car and I'm going to blast them and re paint even though they look mint just because the factory paint finish was so poor.
Not much progress yet but my spare bedroom is full of bits now
I did collect a full B18C6 Short motor yesterday and stripped it down. Thankfully the bores and crank look very nice. It will be getting the bores honed/deglazed, new rings, ACL race bearings and ARP rod bolts. The B16A2 head with type R cams, dual springs and wasted valves, maybe a bit of a port clean up then back together with all new seals gaskets etc...
One thing I am wondering is if I should throw a lightweight flywheel on while I'm at it, but don't want to ruin the driveability..... and either fit an LSD or get a new LSD box.. but ££££
Also, it's known that these motors are best with a 2.5inch exhaust system, can get manifolds easy enough, am half tempted to fit a exige exhaust, as they are 2.5 inch and not daft money. But that would make it a centre exit rather than to the side. But it's good to be different..
I did collect a full B18C6 Short motor yesterday and stripped it down. Thankfully the bores and crank look very nice. It will be getting the bores honed/deglazed, new rings, ACL race bearings and ARP rod bolts. The B16A2 head with type R cams, dual springs and wasted valves, maybe a bit of a port clean up then back together with all new seals gaskets etc...
One thing I am wondering is if I should throw a lightweight flywheel on while I'm at it, but don't want to ruin the driveability..... and either fit an LSD or get a new LSD box.. but ££££
Also, it's known that these motors are best with a 2.5inch exhaust system, can get manifolds easy enough, am half tempted to fit a exige exhaust, as they are 2.5 inch and not daft money. But that would make it a centre exit rather than to the side. But it's good to be different..
Protech and Gaz still make them
The Protech ones have been revised to beef them up too, the rears they sell now are totally different to the ones on my old Libra. Haha as projects go this is definitely the easiest I've had. More graft than anything.
Good to hear about the POR15 as I've got some on it's way.
I know of another Libra going fairly cheap that needs some love. It's a 1.6 but he has a 1.8 VVC that can go with it, not a particularly difficult swap. I could pass on his details if interested.
The Protech ones have been revised to beef them up too, the rears they sell now are totally different to the ones on my old Libra. Haha as projects go this is definitely the easiest I've had. More graft than anything.
Good to hear about the POR15 as I've got some on it's way.
I know of another Libra going fairly cheap that needs some love. It's a 1.6 but he has a 1.8 VVC that can go with it, not a particularly difficult swap. I could pass on his details if interested.
Edited by Yazza54 on Wednesday 2nd March 15:21
Oh I've also sourced an LSD box with the desirable 4.7 final drive, has a bit of crunch in 3rd gear but apparently the bits from my good box are interchangeable so between them I should be able to build a good LSD box for little outlay. Also have a Fidanza Aluminium flywheel on the way.
..And I won this on ebay brand new removed from a exige in 2007 in favour of a sports exhaust... £36
if I can make it fit great, if not, doesn't really matter. Should be able to get it to work and it's 2.5 inch which is perfect for this motor.
..And I won this on ebay brand new removed from a exige in 2007 in favour of a sports exhaust... £36
if I can make it fit great, if not, doesn't really matter. Should be able to get it to work and it's 2.5 inch which is perfect for this motor. 
Edited by Yazza54 on Wednesday 2nd March 15:30
Edited by Yazza54 on Thursday 3rd March 09:19
Smokin Donut said:
Yazza54 said:
I know of another Libra going fairly cheap that needs some love. It's a 1.6 but he has a 1.8 VVC that can go with it, not a particularly difficult swap. I could pass on his details if interested.
Thanks for the kind offer, but I'm really fussyEdited by Yazza54 on Wednesday 2nd March 15:21
and am looking for something with a little more punch. Perhaps GT40 rep? At the rate I change my mind I'll probably never move on! But there is a nice Honda Elise on here that has caught my attention.........Sounds as though you will have a great car when done and it'll go like a Honda Elise for half the cash.
I could happily tour Europe in this but I wouldn't want to do it in that Elise. I think the later ones are supposed to be a bit better in terms of refinement though. Fitted Passat rad yesterday and sorted some wiring out. Should have pretty much all the bits I need now, protech shocks due in the week. Just met a lad off the EK9 forum to collect a S80 LSD Box, the desireable 4.7FD version too. Synchros have gone in 3rd, apparently the S4C bits are interchangeable and I've been told while I'm in there if I swap the 4th and 5th from the S4C into it too it'll make the ratios closer again. Might knock a little top speed off but it's supposed to be a very good mod and as I've got two gearboxes I can do it for nothing.
I mentioned I'd never actually been in a VTEC type R car of any variant so he took me up the dual carriageway in his DC2, was a lot faster than I expected and so impressive the way it revved. Got me a bit excited
I mentioned I'd never actually been in a VTEC type R car of any variant so he took me up the dual carriageway in his DC2, was a lot faster than I expected and so impressive the way it revved. Got me a bit excited
Edited by Yazza54 on Saturday 5th March 10:28
Had a productive day yesterday, mate came round to give me a hand and we managed to get the motor and engine cradle off the tub and were about half way through getting the wishbone mounts off. Slow progress on that front and not something I ever want to have to do again. Bought plenty of POR15 base coat and chassis black top coat, should do the job. I may waxoyl over the mounts too when fitted for belt and braces. Won't look pretty but that's not the point.. Can't believe how bad the rear wishbone mounts were, they literally fell apart when removing the lower wishbones.
Spent a few hours last night removing the front wishbone and shock mounts, a few more hours tonight and they should all be off ready for blasting and painting over the weekend. It's a head down by the pedals legs hanging out the door job, small holes in the monocoque for access, feel like I've done some rounds with Mike Tyson.
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