BEC servicing - London/Surrey/Hampshire way.

[Moulder]

Hi

I have a Roadrunner Sprint which has a 1000cc R1 bike engine. It is time for a service and a few minor jobs, looking under the engine hatch, at the R1 manual, and back under the engine hatch makes me think that this is probably best left to someone else.

Does anyone have any recommendations for someone to do this? Looking on Google doesn't return any obvious candidates.

I am in Kingston upon Thames so ideally local(ish) to here but can appreciate I may need to travel further.

Thanks in advance.

[Moulder]

Thanks for the reply.

I am almost loathe to say what is wrong, but as it may get lost in "other news" today I shall, the engine stalls when hot which I believe is the idle speed ("choke" keeps it above stalling when cold). I need to adjust this and find the issue if it is not this, but a service wouldn't go a miss either and I am happy to let someone with a ramp do this.

Normally this wouldn't be an issue, I was happy to work on my previous TVR's and have 4 bikes on which I do routine servicing myself. The issue is when I look at the manual/internet and it says this is where xxxx is, that is usually where it is (with a few exceptions on the TVR, obviously). When mounted outside of it's natural environment with different peripherals the engine in the car doesn't really match much of the R1 workshop manual, which I have.

One thing I am trying to sort out is a build manual, which should be a great help in these situations...

[Moulder]

mikeveal said:

OK, that's a very easy one...
There are two adjusters. These are pics from a 2002/3 engine. You may need to remove your airfilter / box to gain access.

In this image of the throttle bodies, there is a black tube bottom right with a gold screw/thumbwheel. Use this to adjust idle when hot.


In this image locate the cylinder under the obvious spring. The nipple (tiny piston) on the left of the cylinder moves as the coolant heats up. This is the automatic choke. The screw on the throttle side of the nipple adjusts the amount of choke applied. Adjust when cold.


If this has suddenly started happening, the cylinder has probably seized. It is a common fault. You should be able to move that tiny piston by hand. If you can't try applying WD40. If that doesn't work, order a new cylinder.

Clamp the two coolant feeds to stop the coolant weeing out, unscrew the old one, swap the coolant tubes over and pop the new one in. Remove the clamps and adjust. The system will bleed itself.

From memory that cylinder can be replaced without removing the throttle bodies. If you need to remove the throttle bodies, don't bother with any hoses, look for four allen key clamp rings where the bodies attach to the head. Once loosened, you may need to use the force Luke to remove and refit. A smidge of washing up liquid on the seals will help you refit.

Any Yamaha dealer will be very conversant with this swap. If you know what you're doing it should take less than an hour.

Thanks for the detailed reply (and all the other replies), apologies for the delay in response but I thought it better to have a look and work through the above before replying...

This may be a case in point of what I was saying, or it may be that I am not looking in the right place, or it may be a later engine (car built in 2006), but below is a picture of the throttle bodies on the car which are different to the ones in your images. Having had a good look around on the internet at how to do this the location of the idle screw is not the same as when the engine is in the bike either.

The block is obviously the same but the peripherals, ECU, and throttle bodies are different so even the last resort of RTFM doesn't really help.

There is a local bike servicing place where they are more old school engineers/mechanics than technicians, the plan is to take it to them to have a look at.

Thanks again.