Aurelius's question No 1

Aurelius's question No 1

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aureliusTVR

Original Poster:

102 posts

93 months

Sunday 27th November 2016
quotequote all
Evening all
Finally, after a major sort out and a bit of DIY to provide overhead storage, my Taimar is now tucked up in the garage


Now onto business, as confessed in my "new Taimar" thread, I'm a novice to mechanics but want to attempt as much as possible and learn in doing so so apologies in advice for what some might consider "numpty" questions. First job on the list is wheel bearings as 2 are obviously shot. I want to remove the complete rear n/side hub assembly to swap for one of Mr Venn's reconditioned units. I've removed the brake drum/shoes, castellated nut and the 4 nuts on the flange at the diff side but everything is still rock solid. Are the now exposed bolts on the diff side flange threaded into the flange and if so how do I remove them given the lack of clearance between It and the inner axle flange. (I'm reading the part names from the original spares manual) but it's part 42-51 I'm referring to: A 3/4 spanner seems to fit but when I apply some muscle, it's starting to round the bolt. There's no clearance for a socket so any suggestions please?


aureliusTVR

Original Poster:

102 posts

93 months

Sunday 27th November 2016
quotequote all
I have seen these and the are lovely but the prices are plain silly. I'd consider them at max £500 a pair but not £800+
Plus I still need to get the originals off!
Am I to take it I just need to get the hammer out and start persuading now?

aureliusTVR

Original Poster:

102 posts

93 months

Sunday 27th November 2016
quotequote all
Also forgot to ask this... I still have the brake pipe connected to the cylinder. If the pipe was rubber , I would try and disconnect and pinch it shut but my pipes have been uprated to stainless so do I need to drain the complete system?

aureliusTVR

Original Poster:

102 posts

93 months

Monday 28th November 2016
quotequote all
Thanks Tom, for the advice, these tasks never run like the youtube vids (whereby everything comes apart first go) do they!
Even my existing ring spanner is too wide but I'll keep an eye out for a slimmer one or grind mine down a bit
I'm reluctant to use heat because
(a) I don't own a torch !!
(b) Everything is covered in what I assume is waxoyl, which I also assume is flammable?

I'll get the hammer out and let you know how it goes
Thanks also to GAjon for the pics which I look to have followed ....apart from the coming apart bit!

aureliusTVR

Original Poster:

102 posts

93 months

Wednesday 30th November 2016
quotequote all
Wise s tomtrout, wise words. May I add a few of my own.
Fellow PH 's , Opinion s will always differ but please remember point 1 of the revised forum rules
1: It should be the intention of all members to assist Aurelius in his quest to obtain a driveable, reliable TVR, by the provision of clear concise advice with top quality images wherever possible regardless of the time of day.

And secondly, as the season of good will draws nearer we should always spare a thought for those less fortunate. I myself
Do not have a triple garage with heating
Do not have a four post ramp
Do not have a snap on cabinet bursting with kit

But, dry your eyes friends and try to remember we all share one great overriding passion on this forum do we not?
That's right....to assist Aurelius in his quest to obtain a driveable, reliable TVR by the provision of clear concise advice with top quality images wherever possible regardless of the time of day.

Subliminal but sincere


Edited by aureliusTVR on Wednesday 30th November 14:09

aureliusTVR

Original Poster:

102 posts

93 months

Monday 12th December 2016
quotequote all
Wahaaaay
First chance to sneak into the garage since I started this post frown but managed to make a tiny bit of progress, I've now got the driveshaft off up to the spline


But I've still got to remove the other end from the diff side, I mentioned in a previous post that I may have to resort to grinding down a ring spanner as the clearance is minimal between the flange and the oil seal housing


Does anyone know if Adrian's replacement units are crack tested? I've read some concerns regarding tiny cracks that can form after bearings are 're homed in the mighty press

aureliusTVR

Original Poster:

102 posts

93 months

Tuesday 13th December 2016
quotequote all
GAjon
Thankyou, that's the bit of advice I've been after from the start
If that's the case, it's stuck solid. I've soaked it in WD 40 but there's not much of a face to strike with a hammer, I'll have another look tonight if I get the time.

aureliusTVR

Original Poster:

102 posts

93 months

Tuesday 13th December 2016
quotequote all
All good stuff, thanks all. I' ll let you know how I get on
Good fun this innit!

aureliusTVR

Original Poster:

102 posts

93 months

Tuesday 13th December 2016
quotequote all
Wahaaaay
One hub assembly and driveshaft removed


An old cheap chisel was the tool of choice to prise the flange apart


I'll have to replace this before starting on the opposite side because I've currently only got 2 axle stands.
Out of interest, the remaining diff flange has 3-4mm of play before the prop shaft starts to rotate, is this within tolerance? The diff itself sounds smooth enough.

aureliusTVR

Original Poster:

102 posts

93 months

Tuesday 13th December 2016
quotequote all
Well V6 , it depends on the feedback regarding the amount of play. Ideally I'm not planning to to do a full resto until I'm retired (8-10 yrs unless the lottery comes good) I only drove the car a handful of times since purchase in February, mainly because the rear bearing was totally shot. The diff didn't make any alarming noises so I'm hoping it will be ok for now.
I need to do a bit of research now as I think I could see a drain plug on the diff but not sure yet if there is a filler plug on top? I will at least give it an oil change.

aureliusTVR

Original Poster:

102 posts

93 months

Wednesday 14th December 2016
quotequote all
Thanks V6, glad to hear the amount of play seems acceptable. No fear of me opening a diff I'm afraid, I'm keen to have a go at most things but I'm aware of my limitations !
Do you know which type of diff was fitted to 78 models, or were both Triumph and Salisbury types used?
Also is SAE 80 as per the owners handbook still the recommended oil?