Vixen S2 rear upright pivot pin

[bergxu]

Hey all,

Working on rebuilding the suspension on my Vixen and got the front done which was an absolute bear thanks to every bolt being seized in its respective bush sleeve but now that's sorted, time to move on to the rear and I need help in understanding the rear upright lower pivot pin. I presume it's a singular long affair which goes through the bottom of the upright and, once the tapered roll pins are knocked out (hopefully), I can tap the pivot pin out from rear to front as I see a thick spacer on the front side of it. Am I correct in my thinking? In the event the pin is seized solid in the upright, is a MAP gas torch too hot to use to help free it? And if so, what's the prescribed method of removal?

[bergxu]

Pic of thick spacer...

[bergxu]

Thanks for the replies gentlemen, I do understand now about the two tapered pins but I guess what I also need clarification on is in the second picture that I posted of the front edge of the pivot pin, there is that thick spacer which appears to be part of the pin itself or am I incorrect? That is the only reason why I asked about removal of the pivot pin itself is because I don't see how I am going to get to that outer wishbone bushing otherwise.

[bergxu]

If not necessary, I certainly don't want to remove the pivot pin from the upright. All I'm looking to do is to be able to slide the wishbone off so I can fit new bushings. If you say that spacer is in fact just a large corroded washer, wouldn't I be able to free it up with my torch so I can slide it off the pivot pin?

[bergxu]

Thanks for the breakdown photos, those helped. Yes, I intend to do the job correctly, however I need information, hence my original post. I was not aware that one could even obtain new pivot pins but by way of this thread, I see that they are in fact, able to be had. Mind you, I'm in the US so we don't exactly have a load of TVR parts specialists here save for essentially one guy.

I'll give Dominion a call and see if he can supply me new pins.

[bergxu]

Excellent information, thanks! Certainly not complicated to do by any stretch and admittedly, out of a bit of laziness I figured I'd pick the collective brains round here but I really appreciate the information. I've left the pivot pins to soak in penetrant so after a few days we shall see how much luck I have getting them out without having to resort to cutting anything else.

[bergxu]

One question about making the new pin from scratch; would rolled threads be preferable to cut threads since they are stronger?

[bergxu]

@Dollyman; thanks. Duly noted. Cut threads will do nicely then.

@V6Pushfit; that's what I was thinking as well however given the corrosion I see on mine, I may have to resort to drilling and cutting but I'm certainly going to try knocking it out once I loosen the pinch bolts up. I've left it to soak with the inside cavity of the upright doused with penetrating oil so we shall see. If no go, I'll follow the suggestions here of drilling it out and will make a new one from stock material.

Edited by bergxu on Sunday 5th February 13:37

[bergxu]

To add an update to the thread, I got the right rear upright out last night and am taking it to the machine shop to have them remove the pivot pin.

Need to replace the rear diff casing bushes. I presume just pull them out with a threaded rod, washers and sockets?