Bodywork Problems
Discussion
Apologies to those who get the Pre 1980 listing too, but the more advice the better!
We've spent the last year doing bodywork on the M, and we're so so close, but yet again we've come across little things that will spoil the overall effect unless we attempt to rectify them now.
This time we've got a 'common' fault, stress cracks just on the inside of the headlight mounting hole as it curves up to the main bonnet itself (difficult to describe, but i'm sure you know it yourselves), and we've now ground the cracks out to leave a 5-8mm gap, and filled in with plenty of solid P40, left to dry and skimmed over with P38, yet we've once again given it a coat of primer and found the crack back in exactly the same place.
Don't think the GRP itself is under any stress where it's sat (front on a workmate, back suspended from the ceiling) but in less that two days it's back and as obvious as ever right through the new P40.
Can anyone offer any guidance as to what we can do about this? This is the third time we've tried to sort it, and each time, we're thwarted at spraying time....
Any advice appreciated before I throw it somewhere in a fit of late night rage!
Finally, to those sprayers amongst you, has anyone experienced a bizzare phenomenon with a air spray gun, where the paint seems to irregularly pulsate out of the gun? Doesn't seem to matter what the pressure is, how big a fan i'm using, or how much paint is coming out, but it has the effect of an uneven painted surface, which we have to flat back unnecessarily before the top coat can go on. Ideas anyone?
Thanks,
Tony (& exasperated Chris) & '76 3000M
www.tvr-3000m.co.uk
We've spent the last year doing bodywork on the M, and we're so so close, but yet again we've come across little things that will spoil the overall effect unless we attempt to rectify them now.
This time we've got a 'common' fault, stress cracks just on the inside of the headlight mounting hole as it curves up to the main bonnet itself (difficult to describe, but i'm sure you know it yourselves), and we've now ground the cracks out to leave a 5-8mm gap, and filled in with plenty of solid P40, left to dry and skimmed over with P38, yet we've once again given it a coat of primer and found the crack back in exactly the same place.
Don't think the GRP itself is under any stress where it's sat (front on a workmate, back suspended from the ceiling) but in less that two days it's back and as obvious as ever right through the new P40.
Can anyone offer any guidance as to what we can do about this? This is the third time we've tried to sort it, and each time, we're thwarted at spraying time....
Any advice appreciated before I throw it somewhere in a fit of late night rage!
Finally, to those sprayers amongst you, has anyone experienced a bizzare phenomenon with a air spray gun, where the paint seems to irregularly pulsate out of the gun? Doesn't seem to matter what the pressure is, how big a fan i'm using, or how much paint is coming out, but it has the effect of an uneven painted surface, which we have to flat back unnecessarily before the top coat can go on. Ideas anyone?
Thanks,
Tony (& exasperated Chris) & '76 3000M
www.tvr-3000m.co.uk
Thanks folks, I had hoped that with the use of P40 instead of P38 things would be a lot stronger. The traditional filler is more for the top layer and reshaping more than strength, although I use it for pits in the surface too. With the P40 I use a mini-tool cutting disc and as well as the main area, cut into the surrounding areas in the hope that this will provide a good enough key to hold on to. It certainly seems strong enough when set....
I'll take a look at that book too - thanks for that.
Tony
I'll take a look at that book too - thanks for that.
Tony
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