1985 Citroen BX 19GT overhaul
Discussion
Well ok, I don't currently own the car. I did, back in 2006 when I paid the princely sum of £132 for it. It came with 10 months tax, which at the time was worth more than the car! It was one of those late-night drunk eBay bidding jobbies. Happily, it's still in the family after I gave it to my Dad in return for "all that money you owe me from your childhood."
The car:
|http://thumbsnap.com/CcgkjmAd[/url]
It's a 1985 Citroen BX 19GT. The GT was produced for about 18 months before being replaced with the 19TRS model when the BX was facelifted.
It has a 1.9 8v XU engine which is essentially a 205 GTi engine, only being fed via carb. Rated at 105bhp back in the day, but that was 190k miles and 27 years ago! It's a genuine GT car - swift and comfortable from A - B, but not a racer in any sense. In terms of ride quality, I've driven nothing better.
PRN, or (Pluie = Rain, Route = Road, Nuit = Night) was a feature used on Citroens during their much more interesting wacky innovation years. By mounting on the major switches on "satellites" positioned closely to the steering wheel, the driver could command important features such as indicators or wipers by fingertip without removing their hands from the steering wheel at all. The large single-spoke steering wheel is also typical Citroen, providing a mostly unobscured view of the dials. Dials, which in any other BX of this age would have been the rotating drum, or coke-can type with a digital rev counter. Sadly the GT was deemed "too sporty" for these and given CX GTi dials instead! This interior design lasted for the first three years of production, after which followed a much more conservative dash full of Peugeot switches.
I work at a sports/classic car specialist and the conversation with Dad a few months ago led to us devising a plan to overhaul the car. I've started a blog on FB: http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/480996_334441186638878_533513399_n.jpg
It's not that it hasn't been looked after over the years, it's more that it's been looked after in the wrong way!
How many left you say? Well, according to www.howmanyleft.co.uk the grand total taxed on the road stands at........three. Yup! Three. SORN make up another eleven, though the chances of them all still being in one piece is probably quite low.
I'll keep updating the thread as I crack on with the work. It's due to go into the bodyshop within the next couple of weeks, and then the mechanical bits start:
Hmmm......something's not right!
The car:
|http://thumbsnap.com/CcgkjmAd[/url]It's a 1985 Citroen BX 19GT. The GT was produced for about 18 months before being replaced with the 19TRS model when the BX was facelifted.
It has a 1.9 8v XU engine which is essentially a 205 GTi engine, only being fed via carb. Rated at 105bhp back in the day, but that was 190k miles and 27 years ago! It's a genuine GT car - swift and comfortable from A - B, but not a racer in any sense. In terms of ride quality, I've driven nothing better.
PRN, or (Pluie = Rain, Route = Road, Nuit = Night) was a feature used on Citroens during their much more interesting wacky innovation years. By mounting on the major switches on "satellites" positioned closely to the steering wheel, the driver could command important features such as indicators or wipers by fingertip without removing their hands from the steering wheel at all. The large single-spoke steering wheel is also typical Citroen, providing a mostly unobscured view of the dials. Dials, which in any other BX of this age would have been the rotating drum, or coke-can type with a digital rev counter. Sadly the GT was deemed "too sporty" for these and given CX GTi dials instead! This interior design lasted for the first three years of production, after which followed a much more conservative dash full of Peugeot switches.
I work at a sports/classic car specialist and the conversation with Dad a few months ago led to us devising a plan to overhaul the car. I've started a blog on FB: http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/480996_334441186638878_533513399_n.jpg
It's not that it hasn't been looked after over the years, it's more that it's been looked after in the wrong way!
How many left you say? Well, according to www.howmanyleft.co.uk the grand total taxed on the road stands at........three. Yup! Three. SORN make up another eleven, though the chances of them all still being in one piece is probably quite low.
I'll keep updating the thread as I crack on with the work. It's due to go into the bodyshop within the next couple of weeks, and then the mechanical bits start:
Hmmm......something's not right!
Edited by Kitchski on Monday 12th October 13:21
The whole car can be raised and lowered about a foot, not just the back end. The back end tends to sink to its lowest position once you park it up and switch the engine off, as gravity forces fluid in the cylinders back to the tank.
The system automatically adjusts vehicle height, regardless of load, as well as brake pressure depending on load. It has anti-dive on the front, which means when you stand on the brake pedal, the nose refuses to dip yet the suspension is still as compliant as always.
The hydraulics also power the brakes and steering.
The system automatically adjusts vehicle height, regardless of load, as well as brake pressure depending on load. It has anti-dive on the front, which means when you stand on the brake pedal, the nose refuses to dip yet the suspension is still as compliant as always.
The hydraulics also power the brakes and steering.
bob1179 said:
A mate of mine had one of these back in 1997. It was a little ratty even then! Great car though, I look forward to seeing how the overhaul goes. How easy is it to get hold of parts (especially any fiddly trim bits)?
Most parts are pretty easy Bob. The engine is largely the same as a 205 GTi and the BX had quite a long lifespan and isn't particularly desirable today, so there are lots of parts for peanuts around. The only tricky ones tend to be the mk1 specific stuff, like dashboard and exterior trim.But yeah, it is a bit rattly!
zedx19 said:
Kitchski said:
The whole car can be raised and lowered about a foot, not just the back end. The back end tends to sink to its lowest position once you park it up and switch the engine off, as gravity forces fluid in the cylinders back to the tank.
The system automatically adjusts vehicle height, regardless of load, as well as brake pressure depending on load. It has anti-dive on the front, which means when you stand on the brake pedal, the nose refuses to dip yet the suspension is still as compliant as always.
The hydraulics also power the brakes and steering.
And all these hydraulics still work? Back when I was 17, my mates parents had a Xantia that you could raise and lower, was extremely comfy but also unreliable lol went through more clutch cables then owt!The system automatically adjusts vehicle height, regardless of load, as well as brake pressure depending on load. It has anti-dive on the front, which means when you stand on the brake pedal, the nose refuses to dip yet the suspension is still as compliant as always.
The hydraulics also power the brakes and steering.
Some Xantias were very similar to the BX hydraulics-wise. Most are pretty reliable - I've had a crap one too though! And it's not the cable they eat, it's usually the plastic retaining clip on the cable at the pedal end, but lots of undesirable garages used to change the clip and then charge for a new new change.
liner33 said:
Dont think the radio cassette is original , Kays catalogue used to sell those in the early 90's i bought one for something i had
Not a fan of French stuff but interesting project nice to see them still going brings back some memories of mates who had them
No I always thought it looked a bit more modern than the car!Not a fan of French stuff but interesting project nice to see them still going brings back some memories of mates who had them
driverrob said:
I bought a 1986 BX GT Digit in 1989. Wonderful car to drive, attention-grabbing LCD display, wonderful load carrier.
By 1992 all the doors had rusted really badly near the bottoms and the high pressure fluid pipes had corroded so much they had started to leak.
I was extremely lucky to get a decent trade-in on a newer GTi, which lasted 12 more faultless, rust-free years.
You'd kick yourself now - mint ones are worth a fortune! The Digit was basically a GT, which some extra bits. I did drive one a few years back and videoed the dash on my then bang-up-to-date-but-now-sBy 1992 all the doors had rusted really badly near the bottoms and the high pressure fluid pipes had corroded so much they had started to leak.
I was extremely lucky to get a decent trade-in on a newer GTi, which lasted 12 more faultless, rust-free years.
t phone. Lamborghini must have had a go in one before they did the Reventon I reckon!S10GTA said:
MJK 24 said:
Will be watching with interest! Great cars and nice to see one undergoing a full restoration inspite of their low (but climbing!) values!
Agreed, but sometimes its more about sentiment rather than value.Jobbo said:
S3_Graham said:
olly22n said:
S10GTA said:
driverrob said:
True.
How many cars of that era had an LCD display plus an on-board computer for fuel consumption, average speed etc?
Renault 25...Vauxhall Senator.... I'm stuck nowHow many cars of that era had an LCD display plus an on-board computer for fuel consumption, average speed etc?
ETA: ooh, the Maestro did have digital instruments: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5zs6TU32pY
Further edit to add a link to a very comprehensive photo gallery of digital dashboards: http://www.doubleyoudigital.nl/~cars_digital%20das...
Edited by Jobbo on Thursday 2nd August 21:39
Later cars ditched the trip computer, swapped tweed for CX GTi velour, got rid of some of the stickers and added side repeaters. Then the BX range was facelifted in 1986 and the GT became the TRS. They launched the 19GTi instead and then another year later the 16v arrived.
But......I have two trip computers, so we're looking into fitting one as part of the resto.
That's a GSA dash, although the speedo is the roller can type identical to those fitted in a BX.
This is a Digit dash:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2k4ajC4uPM
And this is the standard mk1 dash:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01h5zVW6Uoc
The GT one is pretty boring in comparision
But it was given standard analogue dials as it was the 'sporty' model!
This is a Digit dash:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2k4ajC4uPM
And this is the standard mk1 dash:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01h5zVW6Uoc
The GT one is pretty boring in comparision
But it was given standard analogue dials as it was the 'sporty' model!Jobbo said:
Kitchski said:
Although it was only produced for 18months or so, there are actually two versions of the BX GT. Early cars had the trip computer featured on the Digit, tweed seats, more decals and no side repeaters.
Later cars ditched the trip computer, swapped tweed for CX GTi velour, got rid of some of the stickers and added side repeaters. Then the BX range was facelifted in 1986 and the GT became the TRS. They launched the 19GTi instead and then another year later the 16v arrived.
But......I have two trip computers, so we're looking into fitting one as part of the resto.
I hadn't appreciated that; think I've lost all my catalogues from the time my stepfather was test-driving a 16RS.Later cars ditched the trip computer, swapped tweed for CX GTi velour, got rid of some of the stickers and added side repeaters. Then the BX range was facelifted in 1986 and the GT became the TRS. They launched the 19GTi instead and then another year later the 16v arrived.
But......I have two trip computers, so we're looking into fitting one as part of the resto.
What condition are your third side windows in? They are plastic, IIRC, and often looked pretty crazed even in the 90s when I spotted a BX with them.
Some progress on the GT recently, windscreen out to attack the rot:
It actually looks worse than it is - there's still some metal left around the edges! Plan is to remove the front wings and doors, and fabricate some new panels to replace the filler I'll likely be cutting out of it next week. We've got 4 good doors to replace the shoddy ones currently fitted, so they can be refitted too.
Time is now even tighter however, because I'm an idiot who keeps buying BXs:
A 1990 ph2 1.9 16v, pretty much the same as my red one. This one is very tidy up top, but an MOT failure underneath. Rare model with factory fitted air-con, but it needs some work. And then when I've fixed it, what do I do? Sell it? Sell mine? Sell them all?? Keep them all??? Build a death star? I'll be fked if I know what to do!
It actually looks worse than it is - there's still some metal left around the edges! Plan is to remove the front wings and doors, and fabricate some new panels to replace the filler I'll likely be cutting out of it next week. We've got 4 good doors to replace the shoddy ones currently fitted, so they can be refitted too.
Time is now even tighter however, because I'm an idiot who keeps buying BXs:
A 1990 ph2 1.9 16v, pretty much the same as my red one. This one is very tidy up top, but an MOT failure underneath. Rare model with factory fitted air-con, but it needs some work. And then when I've fixed it, what do I do? Sell it? Sell mine? Sell them all?? Keep them all??? Build a death star? I'll be f
ked if I know what to do!Hyde said:
S10GTA said:
You both seem to have an addiction to the quirky french stuff 
I can see the appeal, back in the early 90s I loved my ZX Volcane, my Brother's BX took a serious amount of abuse and my father in-laws BX nearly got to stay on my driveway.
The garage I bought my ZX from lent me a BX 16v (4x4? did they make a 4x4 one?) for a day.
It was a superb thing, I was so tempted to try & buy it but had only bought the ZX so
Peugeot coupled the 16v lump to a 4x4 system, but strangely enough although the 405 and the BX are very similar under the skin, the 4x4 systems were different. The one in the BX couldn't take the power of the 16v. In fairness, it struggled with the 8v too!
Work's been progressing quite nicely on the BX. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking:
2 minutes later:
Nothing horrific in terms of rot found under front wings which was a relief:
Dash out:
That'll need sorting:
BX insisting on continuing to self-level!
Headlining out:
On to the windscreen A-pillars - the most likely source of headaches!
Apply Kurust and ps off for a bit:
Start attacking the rot:
The BX looks like a square car. The guy who fabricated these repair panels said there wasn't a straight line on it! What a bd it was to get the bend right in this! Filler is the finishing touch yes, but you want to use as little as possible!
More repair sections:
Primed for now. Filler will be next stage on this bit, but there are the other bits to do yet! And the engine's got to come out.
2 minutes later:
Nothing horrific in terms of rot found under front wings which was a relief:
Dash out:
That'll need sorting:
BX insisting on continuing to self-level!
Headlining out:
On to the windscreen A-pillars - the most likely source of headaches!
Apply Kurust and p
s off for a bit:Start attacking the rot:
The BX looks like a square car. The guy who fabricated these repair panels said there wasn't a straight line on it! What a b
d it was to get the bend right in this! Filler is the finishing touch yes, but you want to use as little as possible!More repair sections:
Primed for now. Filler will be next stage on this bit, but there are the other bits to do yet! And the engine's got to come out.
Wow! Forgot I made this thread, and stumbled across it while searching for something on Google images (something like "I know that car! Hang on.....")
Well, car's still not finished. Moral of the story? Don't assume all is what it seems! Because I've got so many other things on at work, I just happened to wander a cursory glance over the GT when I was assessing what needed tackling, and that's proven to be a mistake. I'll get to that later!
So, in 2012 I reported I'd got the A-pillars around the windscreen all ok again, but there was more corrosion down on the lower sections, around the door hinges. It's a common rot spot on a BX with a sunroof, as the drainage tubes pass through here, and the whole box section tends to become a moisture trap if the drainage port blocks up. Which it does. Frequently:
It's a very common rot point for BXs!
The internal surfaces of the pillar section were covered in rust, but luckily nothing else structural. I kept applying rust treatment through the limited access I had while I was putting strength back in the outer skin. Sometimes you've got to draw the line somewhere:
Actually cut this bit open to gain more access to the crud inside!
Then had to check the alignment right for the check strap bracket:
Then it was ready for paint!:
Replacement doors (Ivory, originally) were sorted first, along with the original wings, which happily were in good condition:
[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kitch/media/BX%20GT/DSCF5554_zpsfgcgetwn.jpg.html
[/url]
All done:
Then the car came back :
Naturally the first thing I did was fit the replacement boot spoiler:
Those spoilers are rare as hen's teeth! They're old skool foamy rubber types. The original had gone all rough and crazed, and this replacement was way better.
Continued the build-up:
And then that's when I started realising that in my haste to get the car painted (I got a good price because I took it to the guy while he was having a quiet period, so I rushed it to paint basically) that I'd missed a rusty section in the boot. Sorting rust after paint is never good, but no big deal:
It had actually spread to the underside of the rear panel too. Arse:
No bother, repairs were done:
I cracked on getting the car back together. Nothing could stop me now:
Unless I missed a little bit more rust.......?
Well, car's still not finished. Moral of the story? Don't assume all is what it seems! Because I've got so many other things on at work, I just happened to wander a cursory glance over the GT when I was assessing what needed tackling, and that's proven to be a mistake. I'll get to that later!
So, in 2012 I reported I'd got the A-pillars around the windscreen all ok again, but there was more corrosion down on the lower sections, around the door hinges. It's a common rot spot on a BX with a sunroof, as the drainage tubes pass through here, and the whole box section tends to become a moisture trap if the drainage port blocks up. Which it does. Frequently:
It's a very common rot point for BXs!
The internal surfaces of the pillar section were covered in rust, but luckily nothing else structural. I kept applying rust treatment through the limited access I had while I was putting strength back in the outer skin. Sometimes you've got to draw the line somewhere:
Actually cut this bit open to gain more access to the crud inside!
Then had to check the alignment right for the check strap bracket:
Then it was ready for paint!:
Replacement doors (Ivory, originally) were sorted first, along with the original wings, which happily were in good condition:
[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kitch/media/BX%20GT/DSCF5554_zpsfgcgetwn.jpg.html
[/url]
All done:
Then the car came back
:
Naturally the first thing I did was fit the replacement boot spoiler:
Those spoilers are rare as hen's teeth! They're old skool foamy rubber types. The original had gone all rough and crazed, and this replacement was way better.
Continued the build-up:
And then that's when I started realising that in my haste to get the car painted (I got a good price because I took it to the guy while he was having a quiet period, so I rushed it to paint basically) that I'd missed a rusty section in the boot. Sorting rust after paint is never good, but no big deal:
It had actually spread to the underside of the rear panel too. Arse:
No bother, repairs were done:
I cracked on getting the car back together. Nothing could stop me now:
Unless I missed a little bit more rust.......?
Lowtimer said:
I love what you're doing here, and adore the car. One of my favourites back when you could get a new one.
As you obviously understand these beasts can I ask what I am sure is a really spectacularly dumb, stupid and idiotic Citroen question? This is inspired by your pic some time ago of it with the front wheels up the ramp and the back standing on tippy-toes to level the car.
How does a Cit know when to level itself with the horizon i.e. perpendicular to gravity, and when not to? I mean, there it is on the ramp levelling like crazy, but they don't do that when you're driving up a hill, they stay parallel to the road. As they should. So how does it decide when to level itself with reference to a sloping road, and when to level itself in relation to gravity?
It's not a dumb question at all! You're right, it would be difficult for a car to differentiate between a hill and something like you see in the picture. Simple answer? I don't actually know why it did that! I guess I was probably clambering all over the front of it removing bits and bobs, and the front sank quicker because of that. If it had been on flat ground, chances are it would have sank evenly, but it's possible the fact the front was up on ramps was placing more compression on the front end while I was climbing in and out. If you park one up after a drive, it'll sink of its own accord (usually rear first within 1-2hrs, followed by front after 10-24hrs, but they're at an age now where almost anything goes!) But if you clamber in and out, it speeds up the sinking process, as the sinking is effectively caused by the mass of the car pressing down on all the suspension cylinders, and all the hydraulic fluid being forced back to the tank via the network of pipes and valves etc. While the engine's off, you can remove some of the rubber pipes that go back to the LHM tank, and they'll actually be 'bleeding' fluid until the point the car has fully sunk. Next time you see a BX or similar parked up, suspension still raised, you can rest assured things are moving around even though the owner's in the shops! As you obviously understand these beasts can I ask what I am sure is a really spectacularly dumb, stupid and idiotic Citroen question? This is inspired by your pic some time ago of it with the front wheels up the ramp and the back standing on tippy-toes to level the car.
How does a Cit know when to level itself with the horizon i.e. perpendicular to gravity, and when not to? I mean, there it is on the ramp levelling like crazy, but they don't do that when you're driving up a hill, they stay parallel to the road. As they should. So how does it decide when to level itself with reference to a sloping road, and when to level itself in relation to gravity?
So in short, there's no way the system can level out gyro-style, but it does constantly keep the car at the right ride height, regardless of load. That means on many models, you can run near zero toe and castor settings (in fact the CX runs zero everything; castor, camber and toe as the contact patch of the tyre is always perfect because the suspension compensates for everything). The way the BX does it is fiendishly simple, but I won't bore everyone with that! Nor will I bore everyone with the brake load compensation system, or the anti-dive system, where you can lean on the brakes and the front doesn't dive at all.....yet the suspension remains fully compliant. Reason I won't bore anyone on that one is because I don't know how it works!
So, it seems I might have missed some more rust:
That's the offside inner rear wing. They like to rot here on BXs, as underneath there is a clip retaining a breather tube from the fuel filler neck. The clip posts onto a threaded stud, kind of like a self-tapping screw thread. And, being that cars tend to be undersealed using a rubberised spray-on adhesive, it only needs one fitting of the retaining clip to threaded stud to remove all traces of underseal from said thread, et voila! Bare metal, ripe for rusting! The rust begins, spreads underneath the underseal and works its way both through the metal, and up to the bonded seam the rear quarter panel attaches to. What this means is that when it lets go, it REALLY lets go:
That's without poking, that's as it was found. Anybody knows if you find a hole 30mm across, the metal you'll need to cut out will be 60mm across. Great!
So then I thought, "Maybe I should poke around a little bit more." And so I did, and rapidly wished I didn't:
Those are the rear chassis rails near the subframe mounts. To this day, I cannot believe I managed to miss all that! The only excuse I can come up with is that I inspected the car on a 4-poster, with all the wheels still attached. With the wheels on, it's much harder to see those areas, though not impossible. I'm normally so anal about that kind of thing, and I also tend to be the type who welds in new sections just because the old ones look bad, rather than have actually rotten through. Completely and utterly pissed off at this point, and finding this rot completely turned the tables on timescales, hence why it's still going today!
So, thanks to the new chassis rail issues, the rear axle and fuel tank had to be dropped:
At least with all that out of the way, I've got access to really get in there and protect everything properly for years to come!
So then the fabrication started:
Old metal cut away, new sections going in:
And then it was down on a dolly to free the ramp up for paying jobs! Back axle on the floor, loads of metal cutting still to do, LOADS of rusted areas to weld up, and I haven't even started the engine bay yet!
That's the offside inner rear wing. They like to rot here on BXs, as underneath there is a clip retaining a breather tube from the fuel filler neck. The clip posts onto a threaded stud, kind of like a self-tapping screw thread. And, being that cars tend to be undersealed using a rubberised spray-on adhesive, it only needs one fitting of the retaining clip to threaded stud to remove all traces of underseal from said thread, et voila! Bare metal, ripe for rusting! The rust begins, spreads underneath the underseal and works its way both through the metal, and up to the bonded seam the rear quarter panel attaches to. What this means is that when it lets go, it REALLY lets go:
That's without poking, that's as it was found. Anybody knows if you find a hole 30mm across, the metal you'll need to cut out will be 60mm across. Great!
So then I thought, "Maybe I should poke around a little bit more." And so I did, and rapidly wished I didn't:
Those are the rear chassis rails near the subframe mounts. To this day, I cannot believe I managed to miss all that! The only excuse I can come up with is that I inspected the car on a 4-poster, with all the wheels still attached. With the wheels on, it's much harder to see those areas, though not impossible. I'm normally so anal about that kind of thing, and I also tend to be the type who welds in new sections just because the old ones look bad, rather than have actually rotten through. Completely and utterly pissed off at this point, and finding this rot completely turned the tables on timescales, hence why it's still going today!
So, thanks to the new chassis rail issues, the rear axle and fuel tank had to be dropped:
At least with all that out of the way, I've got access to really get in there and protect everything properly for years to come!
So then the fabrication started:
Old metal cut away, new sections going in:
And then it was down on a dolly to free the ramp up for paying jobs! Back axle on the floor, loads of metal cutting still to do, LOADS of rusted areas to weld up, and I haven't even started the engine bay yet!
TooMany2cvs said:
Keep going, mate. Plenty of pics of all the nastiness... I've been thinking of late that I need something a bit larger and more sensible than the 205, and running out of reasons for it not to be a BX - but this is exactly what I need. You're doing a great job in putting me RIGHT off...
I could completely ruin that by pointing out most BXs aren't this bad, and the model as a whole is one of the better rust-proofed cars of the 80's. Certainly better protected and engineered than a 205 anyway 
Just don't get a white 16v or a Hurricane. No idea why, but both of them rust worse! Non-sunroof models survive rust the best. Low miles means solid underneath, but more frilly on the bodywork, and higher milers are the opposite way around.
Let me know when the lure of decent handling, peppy performance, low running costs, high comfort, good visibility, reliable mechanicals and the best ride south of an S-class wins you over
TooMany2cvs said:
As soon as I get round to finding a decent one, cheap.
I'll keep an ear out, though 'cheap' and 'decent' are getting harder and harder to find now, as with many older cars.TooMany2cvs said:
As for the "best ride" - well, I _have_ owned four CXs and a G, so I can't see anything with MacStrerson Phuts taking that mantle easily...
Sorry, I worded that badly. I was still using the 80's as a benchmark (from the rust comment at the top). CX & GS/GSA, yes I agree are smoother, but they're 70's. The BX would also outcorner them, of that I am sure. Slight trade-off for a slight loss of ride quality, but the mk1 BX is still utterly brilliant at dealing with crap roads. Mk2 feels more fidgety, but a lot less tinny too.TooMany2cvs said:
Ta. Structurally and mechanically solid - but cosmetics are not the most important thing, although probably not too visually offensive. Mild leaning towards estate. Agnostic on petrol or diesel, but probably not 17D.
There are actually quite a few on here:http://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=20
There's a post by a member called Pilau, and he's selling a diesel and an 8v GTi. I've seen the GTi in the flesh, it's pretty good.
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