Honda Prelude Type 'S' Supercharged K20
Discussion
Hello guys,
Never knew there was a 'Readers Cars' section so here is mine
This model was not long since featured in 'Shed of the Week' but mines a little bit special!
Here are some photo's for now & i'll update with some build photo's and info a bit later:
Car as it currently stands with the new front splitter:
Engine bay shot when I took it to a run what you brung drag racing event.
Here is a quick vid racing my mates Astra VXR with a remap and 3" exhaust:
http://youtu.be/FkQkgh314No
The engine is out again to fit a few things and sort out the wiring mess!
Never knew there was a 'Readers Cars' section so here is mine
This model was not long since featured in 'Shed of the Week' but mines a little bit special!
Here are some photo's for now & i'll update with some build photo's and info a bit later:
Car as it currently stands with the new front splitter:
Engine bay shot when I took it to a run what you brung drag racing event.
Here is a quick vid racing my mates Astra VXR with a remap and 3" exhaust:
http://youtu.be/FkQkgh314No
The engine is out again to fit a few things and sort out the wiring mess!
Edited by Mudgey on Thursday 9th January 17:02
So more info first followed by pictures.
The car is a 5th Gen Prelude Type S built in 1996. Here is a blatant rip from Wiki, it explains in brief about this special version of the Lude:
One version of the fifth generation Prelude, a high-performance model called the Type S, was only available in Japan. It was equipped with the 2.2 L H22A, featuring VTEC and producing 217 hp (162 kW; 220 PS) at 7,200 rpm and 163 lbf·ft (221 N·m) at 6,500 rpm. With a compression ratio of 11.0:1, 87.0 mm (3.4 in) bore x 90.7 mm (3.6 in) stroke and VTEC-valve timing, lift and duration were adjusted to 12.2 mm (0.5 in) intake and 11.2 mm (0.4 in) exhaust. Honda also overhauled the air box and replaced it with a more efficient design that is often referred to as Dynamic Chambering, along with a larger throttle body design bored to 62 mm (as opposed to the previous 60 mm). The exhaust system was also treated to a redesign, with the pipe cross sections becoming more cylindrical rather than oval. The three-way catalytic converter was also increased in size, as well as the exhaust piping from 2 to 2¼ in (51 to 57 mm) (tToV). In addition to a higher output engine both Type S and USDM Type SH featured an overhauled front suspension layout which offered a more effective camber curve. The fifth generation curb weight was 1,310 kg (2,880 lb), and ground clearance was 140 mm (5.5 in)[citation needed]. Unlike the SiR S-spec that had an LSD, the Type S acquired the Honda technology known as the Active Torque Transfer System (ATTS). The gearing on the Type S matches all other fifth-generation Preludes that had a manual transmission except for the five-speed 2.2 VTi VTEC and had a final drive ratio of 4.266:1. The Type S had an Active Control ABS system, different from the others which had the standard ABS systems. The interior featured newly developed Carbon and Excene upholstered seats which most people see it as leather and alcantara laced with red stitching. Manufacturer styling options included seat lettering. The exterior styling of fifth generation Preludes was standardized for most models. All had a sunroof except for the Type S model.
I have owned a number of different Honda's but have always had something for the prelude! I had the Type S for around a year before I decided I wanted something with more power but didn't like what else was available for around under 10k. I was looking at Evo 8's, Subraru's, E46 M3's and nothing really took my fancy. I then decided I will go down the route of more power but the more I looked into it the more I read about the H22 being a bit more difficult to tune than the B and D series motors, also the type S gearbox can give issues the more power you run through it. I decided an enghine transplant was in order and ended up buying a whole supercharged CTR to break.
The car is a 5th Gen Prelude Type S built in 1996. Here is a blatant rip from Wiki, it explains in brief about this special version of the Lude:
One version of the fifth generation Prelude, a high-performance model called the Type S, was only available in Japan. It was equipped with the 2.2 L H22A, featuring VTEC and producing 217 hp (162 kW; 220 PS) at 7,200 rpm and 163 lbf·ft (221 N·m) at 6,500 rpm. With a compression ratio of 11.0:1, 87.0 mm (3.4 in) bore x 90.7 mm (3.6 in) stroke and VTEC-valve timing, lift and duration were adjusted to 12.2 mm (0.5 in) intake and 11.2 mm (0.4 in) exhaust. Honda also overhauled the air box and replaced it with a more efficient design that is often referred to as Dynamic Chambering, along with a larger throttle body design bored to 62 mm (as opposed to the previous 60 mm). The exhaust system was also treated to a redesign, with the pipe cross sections becoming more cylindrical rather than oval. The three-way catalytic converter was also increased in size, as well as the exhaust piping from 2 to 2¼ in (51 to 57 mm) (tToV). In addition to a higher output engine both Type S and USDM Type SH featured an overhauled front suspension layout which offered a more effective camber curve. The fifth generation curb weight was 1,310 kg (2,880 lb), and ground clearance was 140 mm (5.5 in)[citation needed]. Unlike the SiR S-spec that had an LSD, the Type S acquired the Honda technology known as the Active Torque Transfer System (ATTS). The gearing on the Type S matches all other fifth-generation Preludes that had a manual transmission except for the five-speed 2.2 VTi VTEC and had a final drive ratio of 4.266:1. The Type S had an Active Control ABS system, different from the others which had the standard ABS systems. The interior featured newly developed Carbon and Excene upholstered seats which most people see it as leather and alcantara laced with red stitching. Manufacturer styling options included seat lettering. The exterior styling of fifth generation Preludes was standardized for most models. All had a sunroof except for the Type S model.
I have owned a number of different Honda's but have always had something for the prelude! I had the Type S for around a year before I decided I wanted something with more power but didn't like what else was available for around under 10k. I was looking at Evo 8's, Subraru's, E46 M3's and nothing really took my fancy. I then decided I will go down the route of more power but the more I looked into it the more I read about the H22 being a bit more difficult to tune than the B and D series motors, also the type S gearbox can give issues the more power you run through it. I decided an enghine transplant was in order and ended up buying a whole supercharged CTR to break.
When I first got the Civic Type R:
Ops!
Got the engine out, there is no going back now!
Finally got the shell stripped of everything worth selling and organised a scrappy to come collect only to find he turned up with a crane-less truck! Cr*p!!! 8 of us managed to mandhandle the shell onto the back of the truck, man was it heavy though!!
Started tidying up the motor:
Stuck the Type R wheels on the lude whilst I was stripping the CTR down, eventually it was time to start on the lude:
H22 Motor out. This motor was noticeably heavier than the K20, the engine is physically bigger and also the unit has the ATTS module which sits where the half shaft would otherwise be.
The new home of the K20, the bay is about twice the size of the Type R! Should be a doddle then..
First parts made!
Injector spacers fitted to a shiney new fuel rail
Lovely new K-Tuned gear cable bracket:
I seem to have jumped quite a bit here, the motor has its new rocker cover, my spark plug cover and its in for a test fit This image also shows how much space is available in front & behind the subframe, the Lude's engine bay is absolutely massive!!
Hmm, the engine needs to go as far back as possible but the gearbox cut out is now on the otherside of the subframe...
You can see in this image how close the gearbox is to the rear subframe:
First engine mount designed:
Also finished my bracket to hold my Brodit iPhone holder inplace of the original clock. Fits lovely with the data cable routed in behind the dashboard:
Ops!
Got the engine out, there is no going back now!
Finally got the shell stripped of everything worth selling and organised a scrappy to come collect only to find he turned up with a crane-less truck! Cr*p!!! 8 of us managed to mandhandle the shell onto the back of the truck, man was it heavy though!!
Started tidying up the motor:
Stuck the Type R wheels on the lude whilst I was stripping the CTR down, eventually it was time to start on the lude:
H22 Motor out. This motor was noticeably heavier than the K20, the engine is physically bigger and also the unit has the ATTS module which sits where the half shaft would otherwise be.
The new home of the K20, the bay is about twice the size of the Type R! Should be a doddle then..
First parts made!
Injector spacers fitted to a shiney new fuel rail
Lovely new K-Tuned gear cable bracket:
I seem to have jumped quite a bit here, the motor has its new rocker cover, my spark plug cover and its in for a test fit
This image also shows how much space is available in front & behind the subframe, the Lude's engine bay is absolutely massive!!
Hmm, the engine needs to go as far back as possible but the gearbox cut out is now on the otherside of the subframe...
You can see in this image how close the gearbox is to the rear subframe:
First engine mount designed:
Also finished my bracket to hold my Brodit iPhone holder inplace of the original clock. Fits lovely with the data cable routed in behind the dashboard:
Edited by Mudgey on Friday 10th January 16:32
The sump cannot sit any lower than the middle brace that connects the two front subframes, looking good so far though I know its going to be tight..
Test fitted newly made gaskets:
Checking clearances with supercharger installed:
First engine mount made:
More parts arriving:
6 Speed in a prelude?? Yes please!
Gearbox engine mount designed, made & fitted:
Custom throttle cable bracket, luckily the throttle cable fits the Tbody and is long enough!
The beautiful K-Swap header has arrived, oh yea! Shame its at the back of the engine and out of sight...
The bay is starting to fill up now:
Rear engine mount being fabricated:
Trial fitted, hmm that exhaust is tight!!
The HEL headquarters is local, went in and got a decent price on this custom clutch hose:
Originally going to use the standard battery and made a custom battery tray:
Test fitted newly made gaskets:
Checking clearances with supercharger installed:
First engine mount made:
More parts arriving:
6 Speed in a prelude?? Yes please!
Gearbox engine mount designed, made & fitted:
Custom throttle cable bracket, luckily the throttle cable fits the Tbody and is long enough!
The beautiful K-Swap header has arrived, oh yea! Shame its at the back of the engine and out of sight...
The bay is starting to fill up now:
Rear engine mount being fabricated:
Trial fitted, hmm that exhaust is tight!!
The HEL headquarters is local, went in and got a decent price on this custom clutch hose:
Originally going to use the standard battery and made a custom battery tray:
Edited by Mudgey on Friday 10th January 16:39
Edited by Mudgey on Friday 10th January 16:44
Another part has arrived! This is my double din fascia panel.
Here it is almost fully assembled. The silver button is temp until I find a black one! This button is to turn the supercharger on/off, when I ever get it wired in the button will keep the bypas valve permanently in vacuum enabling the supercharger to be fully bypassed at all throttle conditions. This should save some power driving at part throttle where the bypass will be open..
Aircon parts fully removed:
Supercharger fully buttoned up and modified auto tensioner fitted:
hmmm, i REALLY need a set of these wheels:
Here it is almost fully assembled. The silver button is temp until I find a black one! This button is to turn the supercharger on/off, when I ever get it wired in the button will keep the bypas valve permanently in vacuum enabling the supercharger to be fully bypassed at all throttle conditions. This should save some power driving at part throttle where the bypass will be open..
Aircon parts fully removed:
Supercharger fully buttoned up and modified auto tensioner fitted:
hmmm, i REALLY need a set of these wheels:
I hated the position of the old battery and didn't want to put it in the boot, hmmm, what to do? Lightweight racing battery of course!
Fuel regulator, feed and return plumbed in:
Rear chassis side of engine mount:
I am lucky enough that the original prelude gear shifters bolt straight up, BUT, as the cables originally went 90 degree's to the drivers side one is a good 6" longer than the other, unfortunately one wouldnt fit and so I had to make a little extension piece. Fortunately the k20 gearbox linkages require less movement to engage gear and so effectively it feels like a short shift kit has been fitted.
Battery cut off switch:
Custom battery tray:
Rear engine mount powdercoated and installed:
Battery cut off fitted:
Race battery fitted down behind the driverside fog light:
Fuel regulator, feed and return plumbed in:
Rear chassis side of engine mount:
I am lucky enough that the original prelude gear shifters bolt straight up, BUT, as the cables originally went 90 degree's to the drivers side one is a good 6" longer than the other, unfortunately one wouldnt fit and so I had to make a little extension piece. Fortunately the k20 gearbox linkages require less movement to engage gear and so effectively it feels like a short shift kit has been fitted.
Battery cut off switch:
Custom battery tray:
Rear engine mount powdercoated and installed:
Battery cut off fitted:
Race battery fitted down behind the driverside fog light:
I caved in in the end and got my Rota Grid Offroads +35's, there was only one set I could find ANYWHERE and had to import them in from the USA They do a set of +45's but they would stick out too far. First trial fit:
Replacing the fuel pump for a Walbro 044 I think..
Car sat in the corner of the garage looking mean:
I don't have any video of my first drives but it needed more work... Engine mounts were hard as hell, everything vibrated... A LOT.. Also over bumps the drivers side drive shaft was bottoming out in the CV joint... god damnit..
Engine mounts, take two..
Finally got the engine shifted across further, new mounts fitted to use an OEM rear rubber and installed a K24 half shaft which is slightly shorter. Then I was able to enjoy the car for a bit in the summer with mates:
Unfortunately at work some Nobbo reversed into the car and drove off
Luckily I caught it on CCTV and got a payout to fix the car.
The car is now off the road again to have some more parts fitted. Things I have planned or half way through:
1. MFactory Helical LSD.
2. New headgasket, currently emitting a bit of white smoke
3. Fit ARP head studs.
4. Modify water pump so I can use original driverside engine mount.
5. Tidy up wiring.
6. Install MR2 electric power steering pump.
7. Fit the next revision of the gearbox mount.
8. Tidy up vacuum & charge harness routing.
9. Install a Vacuum canister & a Mac solenoid to enable boost by gear.
Replacing the fuel pump for a Walbro 044 I think..
Car sat in the corner of the garage looking mean:
I don't have any video of my first drives but it needed more work... Engine mounts were hard as hell, everything vibrated... A LOT.. Also over bumps the drivers side drive shaft was bottoming out in the CV joint... god damnit..
Engine mounts, take two..
Finally got the engine shifted across further, new mounts fitted to use an OEM rear rubber and installed a K24 half shaft which is slightly shorter. Then I was able to enjoy the car for a bit in the summer with mates:
Unfortunately at work some Nobbo reversed into the car and drove off
Luckily I caught it on CCTV and got a payout to fix the car.
The car is now off the road again to have some more parts fitted. Things I have planned or half way through:
1. MFactory Helical LSD.
2. New headgasket, currently emitting a bit of white smoke
3. Fit ARP head studs.
4. Modify water pump so I can use original driverside engine mount.
5. Tidy up wiring.
6. Install MR2 electric power steering pump.
7. Fit the next revision of the gearbox mount.
8. Tidy up vacuum & charge harness routing.
9. Install a Vacuum canister & a Mac solenoid to enable boost by gear.
Edited by Mudgey on Friday 10th January 17:05
Edited by Mudgey on Friday 10th January 17:19
dragonheart said:
Are you anywhere in the Devon area? Im sure i saw this car recently. looks great by the way.
Yea I am, the cars been off the road since end of November so if you saw one after this time it wasn't mine!Most recent images of parts and work completed:
Head studs fitted:
New gearbox engine mount:
Top of new mount incorporating some adjustability:
MFactoty helical LSD, car will light up in 2nd gear dry and 3rd in the wet, this will hopefully get my quarter mile times down a little too
Water pump oil cooler line blocked and rerouted elsewhere:
New Cam chain cover engine mount and original OEM rubber mount, should be buttery smooth now!
MR2 Electric power steering pump:
Power steering bracket:
K-Pro V3 to be fitted instead of the K100, this will allow me to run boost by gear as 1st is useless..
Unfortunately my inlet manifold cracked, once the engine is back in I shall be designing a support so this doesnt happen again.
Newly made 3mm stainless spark plug cover with CS m6 bolts:
Thats where I am at for now!
Ooo, always fancied a white one!
So lets talk figures
Ok so a few things to know first, the engine was dynoed at 305bhp and bang on 200lb/ft of torque, the torque curve pretty much mirrors the N/A curve but plus 40%. This engine was dynoed with a full 3" exhaust that was stupidly loud and not my hot chocolate. I am running the car with a 2.5" header collector, a high flow CAT & the cars original 2.25" exhaust system, its beautifully quiet and does not impeed on the supercharger noise at all, however I reckon its down a few ponies at high rpm's..
305bhp but probably less now!
200lb/ft.
Kurb weight originally 1310-1330kg, now weighs 1250kg with a full tank of fuel etc. Plan is to get it below 1200kg.
244bhp/ton (the e92 M3 is 262)
Now uses a glorious 6 speed gbox that is almost on par with the S2000 - I think this swap is worth it just for the gearbox!!
205/45/16 tyres.
Honda Accord TSX 0.659 6th gear.
Gearbox info:
Assuming an 8500rpm shift point.
FD 4.764
1st 3.266 37.8mph
2nd 2.13 57.9mph
3rd 1.517 81.3mph
4th 1.147 107.5mph
5th 0.921 133.9mph
6th 0.659 187.1mph
With the smaller 16" wheels I am running the max speed per gear is lower than the CTR with 17's. The ratios feel quite close together but its great fun banging up through the gears!
By fitting the accord 6th gear my motorway rpm's have dropped from a calculated 3760rpm down to 3180rpm. The car still pulls well up over hills and with my Ultragauge I have seen motorway economy as high as 44mpg (60mph lol).
So lets talk figures
Ok so a few things to know first, the engine was dynoed at 305bhp and bang on 200lb/ft of torque, the torque curve pretty much mirrors the N/A curve but plus 40%. This engine was dynoed with a full 3" exhaust that was stupidly loud and not my hot chocolate. I am running the car with a 2.5" header collector, a high flow CAT & the cars original 2.25" exhaust system, its beautifully quiet and does not impeed on the supercharger noise at all, however I reckon its down a few ponies at high rpm's..
305bhp but probably less now!
200lb/ft.
Kurb weight originally 1310-1330kg, now weighs 1250kg with a full tank of fuel etc. Plan is to get it below 1200kg.
244bhp/ton (the e92 M3 is 262)
Now uses a glorious 6 speed gbox that is almost on par with the S2000 - I think this swap is worth it just for the gearbox!!
205/45/16 tyres.
Honda Accord TSX 0.659 6th gear.
Gearbox info:
Assuming an 8500rpm shift point.
FD 4.764
1st 3.266 37.8mph
2nd 2.13 57.9mph
3rd 1.517 81.3mph
4th 1.147 107.5mph
5th 0.921 133.9mph
6th 0.659 187.1mph
With the smaller 16" wheels I am running the max speed per gear is lower than the CTR with 17's. The ratios feel quite close together but its great fun banging up through the gears!
By fitting the accord 6th gear my motorway rpm's have dropped from a calculated 3760rpm down to 3180rpm. The car still pulls well up over hills and with my Ultragauge I have seen motorway economy as high as 44mpg (60mph lol).
Here is a shot of the ultra gauge:
This clever little device plugs into the OBDII port and allows me to view all sensors, read and clear fault codes and most importantly gives me all sorts of fuel economy figures. I know lots of people don't give a crap about fuel efficiency but I enjoy chasing these numbers as much as bhp! I fitted the lowest front splitter I can find not only cos it looks drokking cool but it should also give me some aero aids
Future plans for fuel economy:
Upper grill block.
Manual supercharger bypass for a few percent increase at motorway speeds - the bypass can close at partial vacuum.
Tidy up underside aero, things such as partial engine floor & splitter.
Install EGT sensor.
Install a water hydrolysss unit, lean out the mixture and advance the timing to experiment with fuel economy.
Switcheable warm air intake.
Future plans for bhp:
Custom inlet manifold with charge cooler.
Either M90 or M112 latest gen supercharger - Gotta love the instant power
Perhaps a dual 2" high flow but quiet exhaust.
This clever little device plugs into the OBDII port and allows me to view all sensors, read and clear fault codes and most importantly gives me all sorts of fuel economy figures. I know lots of people don't give a crap about fuel efficiency but I enjoy chasing these numbers as much as bhp! I fitted the lowest front splitter I can find not only cos it looks drokking cool but it should also give me some aero aids
Future plans for fuel economy:
Upper grill block.
Manual supercharger bypass for a few percent increase at motorway speeds - the bypass can close at partial vacuum.
Tidy up underside aero, things such as partial engine floor & splitter.
Install EGT sensor.
Install a water hydrolysss unit, lean out the mixture and advance the timing to experiment with fuel economy.
Switcheable warm air intake.
Future plans for bhp:
Custom inlet manifold with charge cooler.
Either M90 or M112 latest gen supercharger - Gotta love the instant power
Perhaps a dual 2" high flow but quiet exhaust.
Thanks for the comments! I really intend to enjoy it this summer, car shows, trip to Europe and just general fun 'cruising' around are definiately on the cards!
This summer was spent driving around working out any problems, luckily it never broke down but there is a list of things I am working through to get it driving 100% like an OEM installation. Vibrations & reliability are my main concerns and it needs to be smooth as silk hence the redesign of the engine mounts to incorporate all 4 original H22 prelude mounts. If I went down this route to begin with the conversion would have been a little cheaper! Purchasing a whole car to begin with was expensive up front but the benefits were not having to piece everything together, I could try out the engine first hand & be confident it all works, no extra expense in mapping and the best bit is that with most bits sold to this date the whole engine, box, supercharger, ECU, wiring, etc cost me just a shade under 2k. I think I still have about £500 worth of stuff left to sell but these are the bits that will take a while to shift on!
I forgot to mention 1/4" times. Ok so I have never ever done a run what you brung drag event and the first 3 runs out of 12 were dry, my 3rd run was the best and I managed the following:
13.9 1/4
2.45s 60ft
100mph trap speed.
My fastest trap speed was 101mph.
The car was spinning 1st and 2nd in the dry and this was without a LSD, hopefully with my helical LSD thats now installed and hopefully running boost by gear I should be able to get my 60ft times down a bit.
This summer was spent driving around working out any problems, luckily it never broke down but there is a list of things I am working through to get it driving 100% like an OEM installation. Vibrations & reliability are my main concerns and it needs to be smooth as silk hence the redesign of the engine mounts to incorporate all 4 original H22 prelude mounts. If I went down this route to begin with the conversion would have been a little cheaper! Purchasing a whole car to begin with was expensive up front but the benefits were not having to piece everything together, I could try out the engine first hand & be confident it all works, no extra expense in mapping and the best bit is that with most bits sold to this date the whole engine, box, supercharger, ECU, wiring, etc cost me just a shade under 2k. I think I still have about £500 worth of stuff left to sell but these are the bits that will take a while to shift on!
I forgot to mention 1/4" times. Ok so I have never ever done a run what you brung drag event and the first 3 runs out of 12 were dry, my 3rd run was the best and I managed the following:
13.9 1/4
2.45s 60ft
100mph trap speed.
My fastest trap speed was 101mph.
The car was spinning 1st and 2nd in the dry and this was without a LSD, hopefully with my helical LSD thats now installed and hopefully running boost by gear I should be able to get my 60ft times down a bit.
Daugaard said:
How much higher is the k20 in comparison to the h22?
Edit: The overall size of it.
The k20 engine is pretty much the same size, the rocker cover is narrower which gives the illusion its a smaller engine. It is certainly lighter, it doesnt have balance shafts for a start and as its a gen newer than the H22 & it uses less materials in its construction. I am sure I read somewhere the engine + gearbox was in the region of 20+kg lighter which is a good difference!Edit: The overall size of it.
Edited by Daugaard on Friday 31st January 09:20
My car has ended up 70kg lighter, measured using a weigh bridge. Its kurb weight was within 10kg of the published figures from Honda so I would say their scales were calibrated pretty good that week!
The only other weight saving I have done is a 10kg lighter battery and removed the A/C. The engine did have a the ATTS attached which must have weighed a good 20kg!
The engine is infact taller, the head is sat roughly at the same height but the sump now sits level with the sump guard, whereas the H22 sat a good inch higher. What also doesn't help is that the inlet manifold is very close to the underside of the bonnet. In the EP3 & CTR this isn't an issue due to the high bonnet line but mine is so low and it rakes down at the front which doesn't help! I have ended up having to cut a tiny bit of the underbonnet support structure away.
The gearbox is also as low as the sump therefore a dry sump won't actually gain me any height, tbh if I could lower the intake then i could raise the engine atleast half an inch!
It does seem unusual to drop in displacement! Here are the main reasons i chose to do the swap:
1. Weight loss.
2. The glorious 6 speed gearbox.
3. Much higher potential power on stock internals.
4. Better fuel economy - i figure in 15 years it would have paid for itself lol.
5. Just to do something different!
It does seem unusual to drop in displacement! Here are the main reasons i chose to do the swap:
1. Weight loss.
2. The glorious 6 speed gearbox.
3. Much higher potential power on stock internals.
4. Better fuel economy - i figure in 15 years it would have paid for itself lol.
5. Just to do something different!
Thanks for the positive remarks guys!!
We're going to be driving to the Nurburgring & possibly Prague towards the end of the year so we may be travelling through, we stayed at a hostel there during last years road trip and it was awesome, shame we didnt stay for long though!
Daugaard: I would deffo recommend installing a K20a2 CTR engine or the K20a DC5 engine if you can stretch to it, the latter has an extra 20bhp and an LSD, tbh the extra expense is worth it for the closer ratio's, 6 speed and the feeling of the box alone!
We're going to be driving to the Nurburgring & possibly Prague towards the end of the year so we may be travelling through, we stayed at a hostel there during last years road trip and it was awesome, shame we didnt stay for long though!
Daugaard: I would deffo recommend installing a K20a2 CTR engine or the K20a DC5 engine if you can stretch to it, the latter has an extra 20bhp and an LSD, tbh the extra expense is worth it for the closer ratio's, 6 speed and the feeling of the box alone!
I've not done much recently due to work & a holiday, but we managed to blast through some of it this week and got a few bits done:
1, Power steering high pressure and return lines fabricated, used one of the original Lude lines and the routing has been kept extremely neat and tidy.
2. Valve clearences done.
3. Engine/Box back together.
4. Supercharger Back on.
5. Engine back in car & started to fit new engine mounts and other bits back on.
There is one last engine to mount to make which is located at the very front of the engine. These 3D printers come in pretty handy, atm its printing out a template so I can check my hole positionings for the front mount.
Had to modify my PS bracket
My new daily until the prelude is functioning 100% & just incase anyone mentions it, I do have the original plate to go on but can't get the fixings until Monday.
The plan is to keep this one completely original and just tidy it up a bit, there are a few little things to touch up but despite doing 92k its in really good condition! Everything works faultlessly and it seems to have been maintained to a good standard.
1, Power steering high pressure and return lines fabricated, used one of the original Lude lines and the routing has been kept extremely neat and tidy.
2. Valve clearences done.
3. Engine/Box back together.
4. Supercharger Back on.
5. Engine back in car & started to fit new engine mounts and other bits back on.
There is one last engine to mount to make which is located at the very front of the engine. These 3D printers come in pretty handy, atm its printing out a template so I can check my hole positionings for the front mount.
Had to modify my PS bracket
My new daily until the prelude is functioning 100% & just incase anyone mentions it, I do have the original plate to go on but can't get the fixings until Monday.
The plan is to keep this one completely original and just tidy it up a bit, there are a few little things to touch up but despite doing 92k its in really good condition! Everything works faultlessly and it seems to have been maintained to a good standard.
So progress has been slow the past couple of months with work & tbh I did lose a bit of enthusiasm with the project, taking things apart just felt like I was heading backwards rather than achieving anything with it! Once it started going back together and I could see the light at the end of the tunnel I have become highly motivated again!
I am hoping that come Monday I can ring up and book it in for its MOT, hell yea! Still waiting on the front engine mount but that's nothing a large ratchet strap can't take care of... hehe
Ok, so to recap what I have been up to with round two of the modifications, here is a list:
1. Electric power steering pump install inc lines & wiring etc.
2. MFactory helical LSD installed.
3. New Head gasket.
4. Fitted ARP head studs.
5. Weld up cracked supercharger manifold.
6. New 6th gear synchro
7. Wire up primary lambda correctly as harness was wired for wideband..
8. New cam chain engine mount using OEM rubber.
9. New gbox engine mount to allow engine to shift over a further 10mm.
10. Disable ATTS cluster warning light.
11. Find out why ABS warning light is illuminated.
12. Design/make supercharger support to prevent cracked manifold.
13. New exhaust wrap.
14. Redo injector wiring.
Still a couple little things to do, but here are the photo's below, oh and for the first time ever I had to change a wheel at the side of the road
Luckily I could get the wheel nuts off
I am hoping that come Monday I can ring up and book it in for its MOT, hell yea! Still waiting on the front engine mount but that's nothing a large ratchet strap can't take care of... hehe
Ok, so to recap what I have been up to with round two of the modifications, here is a list:
1. Electric power steering pump install inc lines & wiring etc.
2. MFactory helical LSD installed.
3. New Head gasket.
4. Fitted ARP head studs.
5. Weld up cracked supercharger manifold.
6. New 6th gear synchro
7. Wire up primary lambda correctly as harness was wired for wideband..
8. New cam chain engine mount using OEM rubber.
9. New gbox engine mount to allow engine to shift over a further 10mm.
10. Disable ATTS cluster warning light.
11. Find out why ABS warning light is illuminated.
12. Design/make supercharger support to prevent cracked manifold.
13. New exhaust wrap.
14. Redo injector wiring.
Still a couple little things to do, but here are the photo's below, oh and for the first time ever I had to change a wheel at the side of the road
Luckily I could get the wheel nuts off 
Edited by Mudgey on Wednesday 19th March 13:00
So unfortunately there may be some more issues. I was tidying up the car, checking the oil levels etc and found there was some slight sludgy poo on the underside of the filler cap...
I have never experienced this problem before so any thoughts on this are appreciated:
I am 99% sure the headgasket is fine.
The water pump housing channels the water flow into the engine but also there is a crank ventilation passage to a breather, these are sealed off by a rubber o-ring. There is a possibility that the o-ring could not have sealed correctly when I fitted the pump housing back on.
My last thought is it could merely be condensation. When the engine wasn't being worked on it was covered over with clean rags but moisture could still circulate, it was reasonably cold the last couple of months. So now since the engine has been running could it be that the moisture inside the engine has evaporated and condensed on the rocker cover?
I drained the oil and could only see one tiny bit of sludge... Would it be safe to run the engine after cleaning the rocker cover, remove any sludgy bits I can see in the head & then flush the engine through with a few oil changes?
Pictures below:
And my last question is what colour do you think I should redo the rocker cover? Considering I have a black and silver theme I was thinking of getting it powdercoated textured matt black along with the spark plug cover, it should compliment the dip stock and oil filler cap nicely, what do you guys reckon?
I have never experienced this problem before so any thoughts on this are appreciated:
I am 99% sure the headgasket is fine.
The water pump housing channels the water flow into the engine but also there is a crank ventilation passage to a breather, these are sealed off by a rubber o-ring. There is a possibility that the o-ring could not have sealed correctly when I fitted the pump housing back on.
My last thought is it could merely be condensation. When the engine wasn't being worked on it was covered over with clean rags but moisture could still circulate, it was reasonably cold the last couple of months. So now since the engine has been running could it be that the moisture inside the engine has evaporated and condensed on the rocker cover?
I drained the oil and could only see one tiny bit of sludge... Would it be safe to run the engine after cleaning the rocker cover, remove any sludgy bits I can see in the head & then flush the engine through with a few oil changes?
Pictures below:
And my last question is what colour do you think I should redo the rocker cover? Considering I have a black and silver theme I was thinking of getting it powdercoated textured matt black along with the spark plug cover, it should compliment the dip stock and oil filler cap nicely, what do you guys reckon?
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