Volkswagen Corrado G60
Discussion
I've had both 16 valve versions, the VR6 but never the G60, but I'd always fancied one after finding the VR6 too nose heavy for my tastes.
I found myself in the fortunate position to be able to pick one up, viewing it as a relatively depreciation-proof high days and holidays car.
I wanted one as standard as possible, as. I'm really not going to be using it very much for daily transport (I cycle) or for long distance workhorse duties (motorbike). There's no point in trying to get a tweaked one as it wont ever be as fast as the bike...
So...here is what I came up with:
The supercharger has no rebuild history, so that's top of the list. It also needs a headlight wiring loom, some earthing issues sorting on the clocks, the drivers seat bolster, the sunroof (if I can really be bothered...) and a few trim bits (if I can find them!).
There's a mysterious kangerooing issue that might be the clutch, throttle cable or injectors....but for now I can drive round it.
Time to see if my old Corrado Forum login still works....
Cheers,
Tom
I found myself in the fortunate position to be able to pick one up, viewing it as a relatively depreciation-proof high days and holidays car.
I wanted one as standard as possible, as. I'm really not going to be using it very much for daily transport (I cycle) or for long distance workhorse duties (motorbike). There's no point in trying to get a tweaked one as it wont ever be as fast as the bike...
So...here is what I came up with:
The supercharger has no rebuild history, so that's top of the list. It also needs a headlight wiring loom, some earthing issues sorting on the clocks, the drivers seat bolster, the sunroof (if I can really be bothered...) and a few trim bits (if I can find them!).
There's a mysterious kangerooing issue that might be the clutch, throttle cable or injectors....but for now I can drive round it.
Time to see if my old Corrado Forum login still works....
Cheers,
Tom
Edited by darkyoung1000 on Friday 23 February 06:42
So...the list of niggles has started being written, and looked into. I always knew that she'd need some work despite being not a pure 'project' car.
Not that it's the most important but a set of Pioneer front speakers have been ordered to replace the blown ones.
There's a decent headlight loom upgrade on the way so I can actually enjoy driving at night too.
Having looked at the intermittent flickering needles (especially the rev counter) when warm, I investigated all of the earth points under the bonnet looking for an easy solution....but no improvement. Clocks out next then!
The strange kangerooing under partial throttle....not fixed but having taken the distributor cap off and found it far from perfect inside (the contacts were corroded) I have ordered a replacement after emery cloth and Wurth contact cleaner yielded no results. As Euro Car Parts had a sale on....I decided to go the whole hog and get a rotor arm, HT leads and plugs at the same time. £32 delivered....why not!
No time to fit them just yet, but here's crossing fingers. If not this, then it's back to the Bosch diagrams for their digifant system!
I'm going to need some new boost hoses too, the original rubber ones are showing signs of wear. Anyone any suggestions? Black please not blue and as OEM look as possible (although I like the idea of silicone)!
On the plus side...the handling is certainly sweeter than my old VR6, and she pulls well for an old girl, especially above 4k rpm....
Cheers,
Tom
Not that it's the most important but a set of Pioneer front speakers have been ordered to replace the blown ones.
There's a decent headlight loom upgrade on the way so I can actually enjoy driving at night too.
Having looked at the intermittent flickering needles (especially the rev counter) when warm, I investigated all of the earth points under the bonnet looking for an easy solution....but no improvement. Clocks out next then!
The strange kangerooing under partial throttle....not fixed but having taken the distributor cap off and found it far from perfect inside (the contacts were corroded) I have ordered a replacement after emery cloth and Wurth contact cleaner yielded no results. As Euro Car Parts had a sale on....I decided to go the whole hog and get a rotor arm, HT leads and plugs at the same time. £32 delivered....why not!
No time to fit them just yet, but here's crossing fingers. If not this, then it's back to the Bosch diagrams for their digifant system!
I'm going to need some new boost hoses too, the original rubber ones are showing signs of wear. Anyone any suggestions? Black please not blue and as OEM look as possible (although I like the idea of silicone)!
On the plus side...the handling is certainly sweeter than my old VR6, and she pulls well for an old girl, especially above 4k rpm....
Cheers,
Tom
The car is now in John and Troy's hands at JMR, with the supercharger nearly out for a spot of fettling.
They mentioned that it seemed pleasingly standard bar a couple of minor additions...and confirmed that Euro Car Parts had indeed sold me the wrong oil filter....to go with the wrong spark plugs.
These minor issues aside, I intend to come away with a fettled charger, and a new set of clocks, as it's likely that the Printed Circiuit Board at the back of the existing ones is the source of my trouble.
The fettling continues, although I'm happy with how it's performed so far...
Cheers,
Tom
They mentioned that it seemed pleasingly standard bar a couple of minor additions...and confirmed that Euro Car Parts had indeed sold me the wrong oil filter....to go with the wrong spark plugs.
These minor issues aside, I intend to come away with a fettled charger, and a new set of clocks, as it's likely that the Printed Circiuit Board at the back of the existing ones is the source of my trouble.
The fettling continues, although I'm happy with how it's performed so far...
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks Andy, much appreciated. Troy has a set which I'm probably going to pick up, but if he can't find them, I'll drop you a line....
The good news is that the engine and charger are in rude health. The same cannot be said for the clutch line, rake lines, front subframe and a number of other things!
You are quite correct, the car is in safe hands and John really knows his stuff.
Cheers,
Tom
The good news is that the engine and charger are in rude health. The same cannot be said for the clutch line, rake lines, front subframe and a number of other things!
You are quite correct, the car is in safe hands and John really knows his stuff.
Cheers,
Tom
Neil G60 said:
Good to see JMR are getting involved in salvaging another G60, Andy and I have known John for donkey's years. Guarantee you'll drive your car out there with a smile on your face (and a stage 4 port, external oil cooler, new rear beam bushes, replacement heater matrix, coilovers etc) 
Well you were right about the stage 4 port, and the external oil cooler and rear beam bushes are on the 'to do' list. However, these took second place behind what was found on the day:New injectors and wiring harness
New knock sensor
Various bits of tubing under the bonnet
New rear brake lines and connectors
New fuel filter and plugs
New front subframe and wishbones
Ouch.
The car still has some issues (sluge in the fuel tank means when it's low it stutters round corners - needs draining) and a possible temp sensor (the blue one) is required. Also I need to fit the replacement clocks, new ignition switch (just in case) and a few other things...
Still, here's some pictures
On the operating table
Awaiting parts
Newly powder coated subframe
Installation of the above.
Needs sorting by the summer or she's going to get really warm...
Cheers,
Tom
I think my last post mentioned sludge in the fuel tank making it stutter around corners, well, since getting back from JMR in January, I hadn't really driven it much, I was trying to get the fuel level as low as possibly, so I could drain the tank and remove the sludge, filter and then refill. This even resulted in getting almost stranded by parking on a slope, but anyway, I digress....
Nothing in life is ever simple.
The good news is that the bottom of the fuel tank was clean! No sludge, no sediment, in fact, nothing that could really be causing the stuttering under acceleration and cornering.
The bad news? Taking the fuel pump out to have a look at it revealed the following:
Hmmm...let's take a closer look....
Bugger. It appears that not only the top and bottom diaphragms holding the pump in the body have been degraded over time (possibly with the help of ethanol in the petrol), but that also the rubbers mounting the pump in the body were knackered. My suspicion is that this was allowing the pump to move around inside the body and causing fuel starvation. Time for a new pump....
Yes....nothing in life is ever simple.
The early G60s had a two pump external system....ok, well it's not one of those, so I just need a 4 bar pump and sender.
The 4 bar pump and sender system made by Pierburg isn't made any more, so I need to find a 4 bar VDO pump, similar to that used in the VR6. Similar but with one important difference, the VR6 pump was 3 bar. Blast.
Every part number that I crossed checked, VDO, Pierburg and Bosch yielded a 3 bar pump only. I even got a pump and sender unit from Pierburg as New Old Stock from Andrew Page whic turned out to be 3 bar and had to be returned. Long conversations with various motor factors drew blanks, and even VW couldnt source even a 3 bar pump. A second hand unit on eBay was £100 with no guarantee that it wouldn't be suffering from the same problem....
However, persistent eBay searching yielded results from Germany for a 3-4 bar (apparently they come as either, but this one is a 4 bar) VDO style aftermarket pump from the JP Group (part number 1115202700 replaces VW part 1H0919651Q listed in ETKA as 4 bar). Result! £40 from eBay.
A compatible sender from VW then....nope, they no longer stock them....anywhere in the UK. The kind chap at JCT600 printed me off the ETKA page, so I went back to eBay an found a compatible one in Italy for around £80.
Now to try and butcher the carcass of the old one to make a working pump. This requires small audio style connectors for the sender unit, and fuel hose clips of various sizes - 10-12mm for the tank bypass, 14mm for the external lines from the top of the pump unit, and 15-17mm for the internal connectors to the pump itself. The butchering is relatively simple, line off - line on (making sure inlet and outlet are correct), wiring for the pump is only 2 wires which are push fit spade connectors, and then the sender unit needs connecting up (polarity not important)
With the newly created Frankenstein's monster of a fuel pump (a VDO body with the head of a Pierburg), it's just a matter of refitting.... Having previously syphoned out as much of the remnants of the tank as I could and let the rest evaporate, installing was relatively simple. Manouver into the tank, feel for the ring into which it locates and turn clockwise to secure it. Then push the Pierburg outlet cover back into the fuel tank aperture (it really doesn't want to go), scew back in the castellated plastic ring, reattach the fuel lines and loom connection, pour in syphoned out fuel, turn the key multiple times to prime, cross fingers and.... Hurrah!
The Corrado lives again! A short test drive with some hard acceleration and cornering seems to suggest that my fuel pump woes are over for now. The to do list is still a long one, but at least it's running again! As I've been using a ZZR1100 for most of last week, It doesn't feel fast, but then that's hardly surprising
Cheers,
Tom
The
Nothing in life is ever simple.
The good news is that the bottom of the fuel tank was clean! No sludge, no sediment, in fact, nothing that could really be causing the stuttering under acceleration and cornering.
The bad news? Taking the fuel pump out to have a look at it revealed the following:
Hmmm...let's take a closer look....
Bugger. It appears that not only the top and bottom diaphragms holding the pump in the body have been degraded over time (possibly with the help of ethanol in the petrol), but that also the rubbers mounting the pump in the body were knackered. My suspicion is that this was allowing the pump to move around inside the body and causing fuel starvation. Time for a new pump....
Yes....nothing in life is ever simple.
The early G60s had a two pump external system....ok, well it's not one of those, so I just need a 4 bar pump and sender.
The 4 bar pump and sender system made by Pierburg isn't made any more, so I need to find a 4 bar VDO pump, similar to that used in the VR6. Similar but with one important difference, the VR6 pump was 3 bar. Blast.
Every part number that I crossed checked, VDO, Pierburg and Bosch yielded a 3 bar pump only. I even got a pump and sender unit from Pierburg as New Old Stock from Andrew Page whic turned out to be 3 bar and had to be returned. Long conversations with various motor factors drew blanks, and even VW couldnt source even a 3 bar pump. A second hand unit on eBay was £100 with no guarantee that it wouldn't be suffering from the same problem....
However, persistent eBay searching yielded results from Germany for a 3-4 bar (apparently they come as either, but this one is a 4 bar) VDO style aftermarket pump from the JP Group (part number 1115202700 replaces VW part 1H0919651Q listed in ETKA as 4 bar). Result! £40 from eBay.
A compatible sender from VW then....nope, they no longer stock them....anywhere in the UK. The kind chap at JCT600 printed me off the ETKA page, so I went back to eBay an found a compatible one in Italy for around £80.
Now to try and butcher the carcass of the old one to make a working pump. This requires small audio style connectors for the sender unit, and fuel hose clips of various sizes - 10-12mm for the tank bypass, 14mm for the external lines from the top of the pump unit, and 15-17mm for the internal connectors to the pump itself. The butchering is relatively simple, line off - line on (making sure inlet and outlet are correct), wiring for the pump is only 2 wires which are push fit spade connectors, and then the sender unit needs connecting up (polarity not important)
With the newly created Frankenstein's monster of a fuel pump (a VDO body with the head of a Pierburg), it's just a matter of refitting.... Having previously syphoned out as much of the remnants of the tank as I could and let the rest evaporate, installing was relatively simple. Manouver into the tank, feel for the ring into which it locates and turn clockwise to secure it. Then push the Pierburg outlet cover back into the fuel tank aperture (it really doesn't want to go), scew back in the castellated plastic ring, reattach the fuel lines and loom connection, pour in syphoned out fuel, turn the key multiple times to prime, cross fingers and.... Hurrah!
The Corrado lives again! A short test drive with some hard acceleration and cornering seems to suggest that my fuel pump woes are over for now. The to do list is still a long one, but at least it's running again! As I've been using a ZZR1100 for most of last week, It doesn't feel fast, but then that's hardly surprising
Cheers,
Tom
The
Edited by darkyoung1000 on Saturday 4th April 20:15
No boost gauge in the car unfortunately, so I used the MFA to give a reading - the output was healthy but as I had no rebuild history, I went for the safe option and got some minor porting work done at JMR at the same time.
An expensive trip, but one that probably saved me grief in the long run....
Looking forward to the Malton breakfast meet tomorrow, it's been a while since I've been there on 4 wheels!
Cheers,
Tom
An expensive trip, but one that probably saved me grief in the long run....
Looking forward to the Malton breakfast meet tomorrow, it's been a while since I've been there on 4 wheels!
Cheers,
Tom
A brief update, although there's not an enormous amount to report since April.
I've made a discovery about the tyres - while Toyo Proxes T1R were my favourite brand for Corrados, I can't say the same about the Toyo Proxes4 which are currently fitted. Their level of wet weather grip leads a lot to be desired....which is to say that applying power in the wet while cornering (even just off dead ahead) generates wheelspin. In third (although it's worse in second). I've rarely before felt the back end begin to break traction either, but these tyres are the gift that keep on giving!
Having established the grip limits though, I can now moderate my inputs accordingly until such time as I've replaced them.
I managed to pick up a full sized spare (another Sebring to match those on it) for the bargain price of £0.99 plus shipping. Another £25 on a part worn tyre later (Continental Contact Sport) and I'm happier to travel long distances. I don't like space savers.
I have another year's MOT. This needed a new rear caliper and handbrake cable, and there's also an advisory on one of the brake lines. Still, a friend of mine has a roll of cunifer and a bending and flaring kit, so that's a weekend to come.
Immediately after passing the MOT I was rewarded by the striker pins in the driver's door breaking. The parts have arrived today, and the failed plastic elements will be replaced by new ones shortly.
The best thing however, is that the Corrado is still an absolute laugh riot to drive. It is FAR better balanced on a winding B road than the VR6 ever was. I acknowledge that the fresh suspension will play a part, but nonetheless, I went to Helmsley from York last week in the rain. A lot of rain. All previous comments about tyres aside (you can't really push it on that road anyway, too many unsighted corners) she is a handling delight, beautiful steering balance, throttle response and agility.
I really must get that oil cooler sorted though, even in the cool and wet, while pressing on, I saw 118 degrees on the oil temperature which I' don't like much.
Cheers,
Tom
I've made a discovery about the tyres - while Toyo Proxes T1R were my favourite brand for Corrados, I can't say the same about the Toyo Proxes4 which are currently fitted. Their level of wet weather grip leads a lot to be desired....which is to say that applying power in the wet while cornering (even just off dead ahead) generates wheelspin. In third (although it's worse in second). I've rarely before felt the back end begin to break traction either, but these tyres are the gift that keep on giving!
Having established the grip limits though, I can now moderate my inputs accordingly until such time as I've replaced them.
I managed to pick up a full sized spare (another Sebring to match those on it) for the bargain price of £0.99 plus shipping. Another £25 on a part worn tyre later (Continental Contact Sport) and I'm happier to travel long distances. I don't like space savers.
I have another year's MOT. This needed a new rear caliper and handbrake cable, and there's also an advisory on one of the brake lines. Still, a friend of mine has a roll of cunifer and a bending and flaring kit, so that's a weekend to come.
Immediately after passing the MOT I was rewarded by the striker pins in the driver's door breaking. The parts have arrived today, and the failed plastic elements will be replaced by new ones shortly.
The best thing however, is that the Corrado is still an absolute laugh riot to drive. It is FAR better balanced on a winding B road than the VR6 ever was. I acknowledge that the fresh suspension will play a part, but nonetheless, I went to Helmsley from York last week in the rain. A lot of rain. All previous comments about tyres aside (you can't really push it on that road anyway, too many unsighted corners) she is a handling delight, beautiful steering balance, throttle response and agility.
I really must get that oil cooler sorted though, even in the cool and wet, while pressing on, I saw 118 degrees on the oil temperature which I' don't like much.
Cheers,
Tom
ALBA MELV said:
Always had a soft spot for these buy the dub scene tax puts me off.
Good news then, the Corrado, for whatever reason, seems to dodge the scene tax that afflicts Mk2 Golfs etc. if you shop around for parts, you can still get things very reasonably....for a 20+ year old car Cheers,
Tom
Having had the driver's door striker pin snap immediately after the MOT a couple of weeks ago, I wanted to get it sorted, and hence set today aside for it. I label it a partial success....
There's a good guide on the VW Vortex forum which I don't intend to replicate, but I've some observations....
Getting the door card off is a simple job...ish. 4 Phillips screws, 3 of which are different (of course)
Two further secure the handle (the cover of which needs a large flathead to prise off)' then there's the trim to remove - door pin, door pull surround and the electrics to unplug - windows, mirror and speakers.
This allows you access to the central locking electrics which need to be unplugged before you can remove the handle if you want everything to work at the end. You can then remove the one screw holding the handle on and remove it and find the culprit - obvious in this case.
The Vortex guide specifies. 3.8mm drill bit for drilling it out. Unsurprisingly they are correct, but not having one, I started with a 3mm bit. Then files, screwdrivers, torx bits, bad language, a 3.2mm drill bit I finally found, more bad language, and finally a 4mm bit. Sod it, what's 0.2mm....
Got it!
Installing the new one (from Germany, made from stainless and better designed) was, in theory relatively simple. It took about and hour, lots of oil, more bad language and various implements. The instructions were excellent, it was my lack of the perfect tool to align the new pin, washer and original hole perfectly to drop in the holding pin. Delicate stuff.
.
However, it was all done, installed and reassembled, door card back on and tested....oh balls. The window now doesn't go down all the way because I've put the central locking wiring underneath it. Take it all apart again, reroute the wiring and try again. Much better!
I also took the opportunity to put some front speakers in - absent since buying the car. The replacements I bought were advertised as for the Corrado. What they actually meant was - generic cut a hole in the parcel shelf or drill your door card - specific to the Corrado. However, as I've had them since last November, too late to send them back! Time to improvise....
Bending the clips and popping out the speaker mesh meant they do fit and should be nicely hidden behind the OE speaker grills. This will be better than just using the rear speakers I think, or it will be later this week when the rain stops and I can finish the job. Can't wait to get the garage built!
I've also noticed something rubbing, but until such time as I go an get it on level ground and test each wheel undividually, I can't confirm what. I suspect the offside front rear splash guard on the brakes, but I'll find out as soon as possible....
There's a good guide on the VW Vortex forum which I don't intend to replicate, but I've some observations....
Getting the door card off is a simple job...ish. 4 Phillips screws, 3 of which are different (of course)
Two further secure the handle (the cover of which needs a large flathead to prise off)' then there's the trim to remove - door pin, door pull surround and the electrics to unplug - windows, mirror and speakers.
This allows you access to the central locking electrics which need to be unplugged before you can remove the handle if you want everything to work at the end. You can then remove the one screw holding the handle on and remove it and find the culprit - obvious in this case.
The Vortex guide specifies. 3.8mm drill bit for drilling it out. Unsurprisingly they are correct, but not having one, I started with a 3mm bit. Then files, screwdrivers, torx bits, bad language, a 3.2mm drill bit I finally found, more bad language, and finally a 4mm bit. Sod it, what's 0.2mm....
Got it!
Installing the new one (from Germany, made from stainless and better designed) was, in theory relatively simple. It took about and hour, lots of oil, more bad language and various implements. The instructions were excellent, it was my lack of the perfect tool to align the new pin, washer and original hole perfectly to drop in the holding pin. Delicate stuff.
.
However, it was all done, installed and reassembled, door card back on and tested....oh balls. The window now doesn't go down all the way because I've put the central locking wiring underneath it. Take it all apart again, reroute the wiring and try again. Much better!
I also took the opportunity to put some front speakers in - absent since buying the car. The replacements I bought were advertised as for the Corrado. What they actually meant was - generic cut a hole in the parcel shelf or drill your door card - specific to the Corrado. However, as I've had them since last November, too late to send them back! Time to improvise....
Bending the clips and popping out the speaker mesh meant they do fit and should be nicely hidden behind the OE speaker grills. This will be better than just using the rear speakers I think, or it will be later this week when the rain stops and I can finish the job. Can't wait to get the garage built!
I've also noticed something rubbing, but until such time as I go an get it on level ground and test each wheel undividually, I can't confirm what. I suspect the offside front rear splash guard on the brakes, but I'll find out as soon as possible....
Unfortunately both door membranes are missing, as were both speakers and I suspect that the two may not be unrelated....
The funny thing is that the door lock and the ignition lock are already on different keys, so I suspect that these door cards have been off on a number of occasions to the extent where someone just said 'sod it, I'll leave the membranes off'
Replacing them will be added to the jobs list....
Cheers,
Tom
The funny thing is that the door lock and the ignition lock are already on different keys, so I suspect that these door cards have been off on a number of occasions to the extent where someone just said 'sod it, I'll leave the membranes off'
Replacing them will be added to the jobs list....
Cheers,
Tom
aka_kerrly said:
That's a Corrado thing, one of mine has 1 key that fits the driver's door handle and the other fits the ignition/passenger side/boot. My brother's has one key that does the ignition & both doors and another to do the boot.
I got really lucky recently and purchased an entire lock set including handles, boot lock & even the glove box lid/lock for £50! Just got to fit them all which is a rather dull job.
Nice work! Sounds like a baragin - dull or not, it would be nice just to have the one key.... I got really lucky recently and purchased an entire lock set including handles, boot lock & even the glove box lid/lock for £50! Just got to fit them all which is a rather dull job.
I replaced the unbroken striker pin on the passenger side last night along with fitting the second speaker and reinstating the door card. Removing the striker pin that /isn't/ broken is a lot more tricky than removing one that is. Some inventive prying is required using pick sets and wedges, It also transpires that the passenger handle internals are of a slightly different design than the drivers one, and that enthusiastic drilling isn't required as much (and will in fact mark the spring). It would have been a lot easier to drift out the pin rather than drill it.
I realised this as I finished drilling it out.
I also found that the bottom of the inside of the passenger door is holding moisture and that the upright strut holding the window in place has started to corrode at the bottom where the moisture has collected. A very quick and dirty holding repair in the form of smothering it in grease for now, but I sense a future date with some K-rust/Jenolite, an drill and wire brush attachment and a high zinc content paint....
However, the good news, I have faith in my door handles and I can listen to the stereo again!
Cheers,
Tom
A planned few days off with a friend of mine down to assist has resulted in a productive day....
The G60 runs quite hot and it's not unusual to see oil temperatures of 114 degrees or more, just when cruising gently down the dual carriageway in the summer. Hence a popular modification is to fit an oil cooler to keep the oil at a more acceptable temperature, and one which I had wanted to do since buying the car and finding out how hot it runs in the summer.
I bought the kit last year - a 13 row Mocal, but hadn't done anything with it...until today.
Getting access to mount it involved taking the front bumper off, which in itself is a job involving undoing the front crossmember bolts, supporting the member on a jack and then not breaking all of the rusty bits (there are many - the front panel and the splitter mount being two great examples that need replacing. Tricky....)
Once you have access, there's the small matter of working out where to put the damn thing. Different people have chosen different places - I think I'm going for a vertical mount right next to the radiator. Photos hopefully tomorrow when this has been finalised and mounted.
While access is easy, I also took the opportunity to do the front engine mount. The photo below is the old one pre removal- the best way to get access is remove the fan from the back of the radiator and apply leverage using a breaker bar and a lot of extensions! The rear ones to be done tomorrow in what seems like a sod of a job....
Cheers,
Tom
The G60 runs quite hot and it's not unusual to see oil temperatures of 114 degrees or more, just when cruising gently down the dual carriageway in the summer. Hence a popular modification is to fit an oil cooler to keep the oil at a more acceptable temperature, and one which I had wanted to do since buying the car and finding out how hot it runs in the summer.
I bought the kit last year - a 13 row Mocal, but hadn't done anything with it...until today.
Getting access to mount it involved taking the front bumper off, which in itself is a job involving undoing the front crossmember bolts, supporting the member on a jack and then not breaking all of the rusty bits (there are many - the front panel and the splitter mount being two great examples that need replacing. Tricky....)
Once you have access, there's the small matter of working out where to put the damn thing. Different people have chosen different places - I think I'm going for a vertical mount right next to the radiator. Photos hopefully tomorrow when this has been finalised and mounted.
While access is easy, I also took the opportunity to do the front engine mount. The photo below is the old one pre removal- the best way to get access is remove the fan from the back of the radiator and apply leverage using a breaker bar and a lot of extensions! The rear ones to be done tomorrow in what seems like a sod of a job....
Cheers,
Tom
Well, the rear engine mounts and oil cooler are now done after a long stint in the garage yesterday (the day before ended up putting guttering on the new garage so it doesn't flood....
Anyway, the rear engine and gearbox mount was....surprisingly easy. Good access from up top with only a couple of brake lines in the way and took only a short time.
The off-side engine mount was a little more tricky, and involved removing a wheel for better access (the job is possible with it on, but easier with it off.
However, there is now much less 'rock' in the engine when being revved while stationary, a test drive today will reveal whether it feels better behind the wheel.
Most importantly however, it will also reveal how effective the new oil cooler is. I've been looking forward to fitting this since getting the car, it should make motorway cruising and pressing on less stressful. Previously a watchful eye was always on the oil temperature as it crept up beyond 116 degrees and made me worried at how effective the oil was being.
We went for an OE mount as possible (I think) meaning that it should get excellent airflow while being invisible from outside the car. It's mounted vertically on the off-side of the radiator, and takes the place of a formed plastic panel that was previously directing air towards the radiator. This should mean that despite the horn being slightly in the flow of air, it should receive full flow through the grill....
While it's been run up to temperature and checked for leaks, it seems like it's time for that test drive....
Cheers,
Tom
Anyway, the rear engine and gearbox mount was....surprisingly easy. Good access from up top with only a couple of brake lines in the way and took only a short time.
The off-side engine mount was a little more tricky, and involved removing a wheel for better access (the job is possible with it on, but easier with it off.
However, there is now much less 'rock' in the engine when being revved while stationary, a test drive today will reveal whether it feels better behind the wheel.
Most importantly however, it will also reveal how effective the new oil cooler is. I've been looking forward to fitting this since getting the car, it should make motorway cruising and pressing on less stressful. Previously a watchful eye was always on the oil temperature as it crept up beyond 116 degrees and made me worried at how effective the oil was being.
We went for an OE mount as possible (I think) meaning that it should get excellent airflow while being invisible from outside the car. It's mounted vertically on the off-side of the radiator, and takes the place of a formed plastic panel that was previously directing air towards the radiator. This should mean that despite the horn being slightly in the flow of air, it should receive full flow through the grill....
While it's been run up to temperature and checked for leaks, it seems like it's time for that test drive....
Cheers,
Tom
Test drive completed!
Oil now stays below 100 degrees at all times, and seems to be around the 90-92 degrees when making good progress. The highest seen was 96 degrees when sat on the driveway with no airflow.
I did get a warning light from forgetting to top up the coolant that came out when removing the radiator top hose though!
Very happy with the last week's work though - power steering pipe modification to allow better fabrication of a replacement panel next!
Cheers,
Tom
Oil now stays below 100 degrees at all times, and seems to be around the 90-92 degrees when making good progress. The highest seen was 96 degrees when sat on the driveway with no airflow.
I did get a warning light from forgetting to top up the coolant that came out when removing the radiator top hose though!
Very happy with the last week's work though - power steering pipe modification to allow better fabrication of a replacement panel next!
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks very much, there's a little way to go yet, but I'm getting there!
In terms of 'nose heavy' feel, and I say feel as I haven't done any form of scientific testing to back this up, but..... The VR6 on track, and even fast road (lovely sweeping A166 for example) would want to carry its momentum on much more so than the G60 or the 1.8/2.016vs that I've had. There was much more of a sense of weight over he front axle from the V6 under the bonnet, which may largely be down to its additional mass being further forward in the car.
At Elvington, the VR would understeer through the faster corners, with cones suffering as a consequence! I'm yet to take the G60 there as I've been waiting for the oil cooler before any track shenanigans. On the road however, it's much quicker to go where you tell it without the nose feeling like its fighting the tyres - the boost does an excellent job of that instead
All cars have been on standard 15" wheels with Reasonable tyres, so consistent feel in that regard at least!
Cheers,
Tom
In terms of 'nose heavy' feel, and I say feel as I haven't done any form of scientific testing to back this up, but..... The VR6 on track, and even fast road (lovely sweeping A166 for example) would want to carry its momentum on much more so than the G60 or the 1.8/2.016vs that I've had. There was much more of a sense of weight over he front axle from the V6 under the bonnet, which may largely be down to its additional mass being further forward in the car.
At Elvington, the VR would understeer through the faster corners, with cones suffering as a consequence! I'm yet to take the G60 there as I've been waiting for the oil cooler before any track shenanigans. On the road however, it's much quicker to go where you tell it without the nose feeling like its fighting the tyres - the boost does an excellent job of that instead
All cars have been on standard 15" wheels with Reasonable tyres, so consistent feel in that regard at least!
Cheers,
Tom
Minor fettling only this weekend, I've been trying to put an MOT fail Renault back on the road instead - I'd prefer killing it with fire, but it's a mate's car....
Upon removing the splitter and bumper as part of the oil cooler installation, there's a corroded panel that I need to get to and also the splitter mounting strip was rusted to hell.
Found a supplier on eBay and rather then fit straight away, time to give it a protective coating (hopefully that should make it last longer than the original....
Also applied glass fibre resin to the back of the crack in the splitter - not pretty, but should stop it getting worse (and it will look worse if I tried to do the front as well then paint it).
Hopefully get to fit those in the next couple of weeks, but sorting out the garage comes first!
Cheers,
Tom
Upon removing the splitter and bumper as part of the oil cooler installation, there's a corroded panel that I need to get to and also the splitter mounting strip was rusted to hell.
Found a supplier on eBay and rather then fit straight away, time to give it a protective coating (hopefully that should make it last longer than the original....
Also applied glass fibre resin to the back of the crack in the splitter - not pretty, but should stop it getting worse (and it will look worse if I tried to do the front as well then paint it).
Hopefully get to fit those in the next couple of weeks, but sorting out the garage comes first!
Cheers,
Tom
A couple of minor jobs today - which should leave me in a slightly better condition for next Sunday's Breakfast Meet at Malton.
Refitted the front splitter with its new and painted metal holding strip - exciting times...ish.
Then a minor cosmetic touch, but as the stereo fitted when I bought the car is very capable, but very....modern, I wanted to take a step backwards. I'm not an 'everything must be period' type, but something that glows less offensively blue would be nice!
Out with the old:
In with the new cage:
Ready for this:
It fits, but I think I may have to investigate further as it's 'on' even when it's off. The display goes dark, but it still responds to some button presses - a flat battery waiting to happen... Might be something to do with VW not following the ISO standard on switched and permanent live apparently. Further investigation tomorrow I hope!
Cheers,
Tom
Refitted the front splitter with its new and painted metal holding strip - exciting times...ish.
Then a minor cosmetic touch, but as the stereo fitted when I bought the car is very capable, but very....modern, I wanted to take a step backwards. I'm not an 'everything must be period' type, but something that glows less offensively blue would be nice!
Out with the old:
In with the new cage:
Ready for this:
It fits, but I think I may have to investigate further as it's 'on' even when it's off. The display goes dark, but it still responds to some button presses - a flat battery waiting to happen... Might be something to do with VW not following the ISO standard on switched and permanent live apparently. Further investigation tomorrow I hope!
Cheers,
Tom
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