2003 Toyota Celica T-Sport
Discussion
Hey guys,
First post here! Been reading everyone's cars for a long while and it's fantastic looking at peoples pride and joy. So I thought I'd share mine.
Bought it back in September 2013 with 110,000 on the clock. Immaculate condition throughout, and full Toyota premium service history.
Some photos from the advert.
Chain driven Yamaha built 1.8 litre 190bhp 2zz-ge engine with high cam profile switch at 6,200rpm (similar to VTEC), redlining at 8,250rpm. At this mileage they're barely run in.
First thing I did was a thorough clean, polish and wax.
Then over the months, I went about making changes to the car to improve it. I don't want to go away from the original look, so I went about modernising it.
MTEC discs
Refurbished alloy center caps
Apex 35mm springs
Induction kit (now has a black foam cone)
Hubcentric spacers. 17mm front, 22mm rear.
Strut brace (now refurbished black to suite engine bay plastics)
New radiator and slimline fans
Worked on the leather interior
Brass gear linkages
And a lot of other small modifications.
Here's some photos of it to date:
I've also bought the following, ready to fit:
Wilwood 4-pot Superlite BBK & HEL braided hoses
Poly front engine mount
And a front Whiteline adjustable ARB, which I haven't got a photograph of.
So this is what's been done:
Engine, Performance & Transmission
- Direnza Induction Kit
- RamAir Induction Cone
- High Power Slimline Radiator Fans
- Mobil 1 EPS 5w30 Synthetic Oil
- Redline MT-90 Gearbox Oil
- Brass Gear Linkages
Brakes, Tyres & Suspension
- 4x KYB Excel-G Shock Absorbers
- MTEC Drilled & Grooved Discs
- Front Upper Strut Brace
- Apex 35mm Suspension
- Falken ZEIX ZE914 Tyres
Interior & Trim
- Auris Gear Knob
- Grey Stitched Gear Gaiter
- Bluetooth & AUX Connectivity
Exterior & Engine Bay
- 5000k 55w HID Xenon Headlights
- 5000k SMD LED Sidelights
- 5000k SMD LED Number Plate Lights
- Cree Indicator Bulbs
- Cree Reverse Bulbs
- Aero Wipers
- TRD Aerial
- TRD Dust Caps
- OEM Mud Flaps
- Gloss Black Rocker Cover
- Lotus 2ZZ Spark Plug Cover
- Silicone Vacuum Pipes
Refurbished & Replaced
- T-Sport Center Caps - Replaced
- Battery - Replaced
- Floor Mats - Replaced
- Radiator - Replaced
- Radiator Hoses - Replaced
- Cabin Filter - Replaced
- Custom Number Plates - Replaced
- Wheel Arch Metals - Refurbished
- Lift OCV Filter - Refurbished
- Body ECU - Replaced
- Brake Calipers - Replaced
- Brake Master Cylinder - Replaced
- Vacuum Solenoid Valve - Replaced
- Front & Rear Droplinks - Replaced
- Front & Rear Exhaust Manifolds - Repaired
Apologies for the amount of photos! Look forward to hearing from you guys
First post here! Been reading everyone's cars for a long while and it's fantastic looking at peoples pride and joy. So I thought I'd share mine.
Bought it back in September 2013 with 110,000 on the clock. Immaculate condition throughout, and full Toyota premium service history.
Some photos from the advert.
Chain driven Yamaha built 1.8 litre 190bhp 2zz-ge engine with high cam profile switch at 6,200rpm (similar to VTEC), redlining at 8,250rpm. At this mileage they're barely run in.
First thing I did was a thorough clean, polish and wax.
Then over the months, I went about making changes to the car to improve it. I don't want to go away from the original look, so I went about modernising it.
MTEC discs
Refurbished alloy center caps
Apex 35mm springs
Induction kit (now has a black foam cone)
Hubcentric spacers. 17mm front, 22mm rear.
Strut brace (now refurbished black to suite engine bay plastics)
New radiator and slimline fans
Worked on the leather interior
Brass gear linkages
And a lot of other small modifications.
Here's some photos of it to date:
I've also bought the following, ready to fit:
Wilwood 4-pot Superlite BBK & HEL braided hoses
Poly front engine mount
And a front Whiteline adjustable ARB, which I haven't got a photograph of.
So this is what's been done:
Engine, Performance & Transmission
- Direnza Induction Kit
- RamAir Induction Cone
- High Power Slimline Radiator Fans
- Mobil 1 EPS 5w30 Synthetic Oil
- Redline MT-90 Gearbox Oil
- Brass Gear Linkages
Brakes, Tyres & Suspension
- 4x KYB Excel-G Shock Absorbers
- MTEC Drilled & Grooved Discs
- Front Upper Strut Brace
- Apex 35mm Suspension
- Falken ZEIX ZE914 Tyres
Interior & Trim
- Auris Gear Knob
- Grey Stitched Gear Gaiter
- Bluetooth & AUX Connectivity
Exterior & Engine Bay
- 5000k 55w HID Xenon Headlights
- 5000k SMD LED Sidelights
- 5000k SMD LED Number Plate Lights
- Cree Indicator Bulbs
- Cree Reverse Bulbs
- Aero Wipers
- TRD Aerial
- TRD Dust Caps
- OEM Mud Flaps
- Gloss Black Rocker Cover
- Lotus 2ZZ Spark Plug Cover
- Silicone Vacuum Pipes
Refurbished & Replaced
- T-Sport Center Caps - Replaced
- Battery - Replaced
- Floor Mats - Replaced
- Radiator - Replaced
- Radiator Hoses - Replaced
- Cabin Filter - Replaced
- Custom Number Plates - Replaced
- Wheel Arch Metals - Refurbished
- Lift OCV Filter - Refurbished
- Body ECU - Replaced
- Brake Calipers - Replaced
- Brake Master Cylinder - Replaced
- Vacuum Solenoid Valve - Replaced
- Front & Rear Droplinks - Replaced
- Front & Rear Exhaust Manifolds - Repaired
Apologies for the amount of photos! Look forward to hearing from you guys
Edited by geraintthomas on Monday 11th May 14:38
Edited by geraintthomas on Monday 11th May 15:11
Cheers Morry! I do love the power delivery of the 2zz. Agreed you have to keep the revs up to get the most out of it, but it's lively and as you said, lift is damn well exciting!
Unfortunately it's got an issue with its handling at the moment, an issue I've had for about 6 months. Very nervous in a straight line, twitchy, and tramlines terribly in ruts in the road. I've changed tyres, balanced wheels, changed all shocks, changed and checked wishbone bushes and wishbones, track rod ends, ball joints, the lot. The only thing I haven't had done is a full alignment (and yup, I'm an idiot for not getting this done first). The ride was fine for about a year after lowering it 35mm - this issue happened overnight. I'm hoping I've hit some sort of pothole, and knocked something further out of alignment, as the alignment wouldn't have been great after the ride drop anyway.
Unfortunately it's got an issue with its handling at the moment, an issue I've had for about 6 months. Very nervous in a straight line, twitchy, and tramlines terribly in ruts in the road. I've changed tyres, balanced wheels, changed all shocks, changed and checked wishbone bushes and wishbones, track rod ends, ball joints, the lot. The only thing I haven't had done is a full alignment (and yup, I'm an idiot for not getting this done first). The ride was fine for about a year after lowering it 35mm - this issue happened overnight. I'm hoping I've hit some sort of pothole, and knocked something further out of alignment, as the alignment wouldn't have been great after the ride drop anyway.
Awesome I completely agree! Easy to work on, looks great, cheap, fast, economical, etc. I bought this for £2,000 with full service history - absolute steal if you look hard enough.
Normal spacers are indeed dangerous and they put stress on the wheel bolts. Hubcentric spacers work by the wheel bolting to the spacer, then the spacer bolting to the hub. They also rest on the hub (hence the name), and that's what makes them safe.
Normal spacers are indeed dangerous and they put stress on the wheel bolts. Hubcentric spacers work by the wheel bolting to the spacer, then the spacer bolting to the hub. They also rest on the hub (hence the name), and that's what makes them safe.
Bradford on Avon to be exact bought it from a 52 year old gentleman who really looked after it.
I did try Millers Nano CFS 5w40 at one point but noticed that the engine was considerably 'tappier'. Thine is though as it's an eater oil it'll no doubt protect better, but I do find t quieter with the Mobil1 in there. Strange!
I did try Millers Nano CFS 5w40 at one point but noticed that the engine was considerably 'tappier'. Thine is though as it's an eater oil it'll no doubt protect better, but I do find t quieter with the Mobil1 in there. Strange!
They're fantastic cars for the money, but I wouldn't get fooled into one straight away. There's a few fundamental things that aren't great with the car from the factory that really let it down that its rivals never had (Type R, etc). I had these things in mind to fix when I bought it.
1. The brakes are terrible. Common fault - very spongy, and they're like that as standard.
2. Ride height is far too high, wheel arches are enormous even compared to a modern fiesta.
3. Wheels are too far sunken in
4. Doesn't sound 'special' when the revs are up.
5. Dashboard feels cheap
But for about £400 you can fix most of those with the following:
1. Braided hoses, new discs and EBC pads
2. Apex 35mm springs
3. Hubcentric spacers
4. Induction kit
5. Nothing you can do unfortunately.
That's the first things I did to mine when I bought the car, and it made the car the way it should have been. From the photos I've posted, you can't tell it's been lowered or spaced at all, because it sits just right. Compare it to a standard Celica and they look like moon buggies.
Here's the ride height on my Celica before I lowered and spaced it:
Notice how ridiculously high it is?
And here it is with the Apex springs:
That's my only bone to pick with them though. There's other things I'd like to have seen from the factory which, again, I've already added to the car. Aero wipers, Xenons (seeing as they have projector lenses), etc.
So if you do think of buying one, keep those things in mind and once done, you'll have a fantastic car
1. The brakes are terrible. Common fault - very spongy, and they're like that as standard.
2. Ride height is far too high, wheel arches are enormous even compared to a modern fiesta.
3. Wheels are too far sunken in
4. Doesn't sound 'special' when the revs are up.
5. Dashboard feels cheap
But for about £400 you can fix most of those with the following:
1. Braided hoses, new discs and EBC pads
2. Apex 35mm springs
3. Hubcentric spacers
4. Induction kit
5. Nothing you can do unfortunately.
That's the first things I did to mine when I bought the car, and it made the car the way it should have been. From the photos I've posted, you can't tell it's been lowered or spaced at all, because it sits just right. Compare it to a standard Celica and they look like moon buggies.
Here's the ride height on my Celica before I lowered and spaced it:
Notice how ridiculously high it is?
And here it is with the Apex springs:
That's my only bone to pick with them though. There's other things I'd like to have seen from the factory which, again, I've already added to the car. Aero wipers, Xenons (seeing as they have projector lenses), etc.
So if you do think of buying one, keep those things in mind and once done, you'll have a fantastic car
Edited by geraintthomas on Tuesday 12th May 10:51
Absolutely
Here's a little sound clip I filmed inside the car showing the cam lift engaging at 6,200rpm. Sounds great!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOA-fhCt5Cw
Notice my spark plug cover? Toyota never had one, but Lotus had the good intention of making one. Even though it's upside down due to the elise being mid-engined, I still think it looks good
Here's a little sound clip I filmed inside the car showing the cam lift engaging at 6,200rpm. Sounds great!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOA-fhCt5Cw
Notice my spark plug cover? Toyota never had one, but Lotus had the good intention of making one. Even though it's upside down due to the elise being mid-engined, I still think it looks good
Plenty of people have made track day cars out of Celica's! There's a few guys on Celica-club.co.uk who have done it with great success.
Andy - mine is now on 135,000 miles and runs, looks and feels like new. The engines are chain driven, which is a lovely bit of peace of mind. They're very reliable so I'd go for it, for as long as there's full service history!
Keep in mind that oil changes are every 7000 miles on these engines, and they're quite fragile when it comes to old/low oil. Make sure they've been looked after, and they'll easily go 200k onwards.
Andy - mine is now on 135,000 miles and runs, looks and feels like new. The engines are chain driven, which is a lovely bit of peace of mind. They're very reliable so I'd go for it, for as long as there's full service history!
Keep in mind that oil changes are every 7000 miles on these engines, and they're quite fragile when it comes to old/low oil. Make sure they've been looked after, and they'll easily go 200k onwards.
Thanks for the kind words
I can only do small things while I wait until this handling issue is fixed. So the next things I'm doing is replacing most of the visual nuts and bolts in the engine bay with brand new gloss black ones, replace the red positive battery cap, get a newer flat matt black battery tie bar, and start going over the wheel arches and underside with some hammerite.
I can only do small things while I wait until this handling issue is fixed. So the next things I'm doing is replacing most of the visual nuts and bolts in the engine bay with brand new gloss black ones, replace the red positive battery cap, get a newer flat matt black battery tie bar, and start going over the wheel arches and underside with some hammerite.
In all fairness, it does sound fantastic when the revs are up
Spacers didn't effect the handling negatively in any way. I can't really say if it was a positive as I couldn't feel much of a difference, nor have I had the chance to track it before and after. They're just there for cosmetics!
Spacers didn't effect the handling negatively in any way. I can't really say if it was a positive as I couldn't feel much of a difference, nor have I had the chance to track it before and after. They're just there for cosmetics!
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