2012 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 (L322)

2012 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 (L322)

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tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Monday 1st April
quotequote all
I'd been scanning for a few weeks my saved searches in the usual places plus BCA but most have tinted glass and I preferred not to have it. Eventually this popped up which was my ideal colour scheme - Galway green over sand, and it was only 20 minutes away. The downside is that it needs some bodywork but I am prepared to spend a bit so I've priced it in should it be a keeper. I will probably remove the side steps.

It came with lots of history from 2019 where it was run by a farm in Oxfordshire. It's definitely seen some work and it shows. It's had the oil cooler replaced plus some turbo O rings. A new/recon gearbox last year. There is no history before this and nothing online with LR but the service book is stamped. It's been serviced around every 10,000 miles and currently shows 155,000 miles.

After a road test I have discovered that there is no heat to the cabin and this could be a changeover valve problem. More digging to be done.

It has new 19" General Grabbers on the front and decent ones on the rear. The spare wheel is a different style from the other four. I have ordered oil and filter as it is due. It needs a really deep clean, though fortunately it does not smell of livestock. The rear shelf is missing and the bonnet badge is incomplete. It probably had some previous bodywork to the front bumper/front end. I will order 4 wheel nuts and bin the lockers.



Rear lamps have discoloured.











Front seat valance is broken/missing



The best part of the inside is the rear.



I found this flyer in the rear armrest




tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Tuesday 2nd April
quotequote all
As I have no desire to have swollen nuts, a new set will be here tomorrow. Also ordered is £25-worth of top quality Chinese changeover heater valve, which was detailed over on FFRR.

It looks fiddly but straightforward.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Saturday 6th April
quotequote all
Oh dear. An overheating warning but I caught it quickly. Fortunately the truck was only 15 minutes away so I'm back home waiting for it to cool. It does not crank though but it was OK when it loaded onto the truck.

The top hose was really hot. Hopefully it's something simple as a stuck thermostat.


tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Sunday 7th April
quotequote all
I disconnected the battery for an hour and it started. There was a low coolant warning so more investigation required. I topped up with the orange coolant, hopefully that is correct as Halfords website said so but its in-store book said blue.

There are no obvious leaks but it's gained the noise of a cricket.



tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Wednesday 10th April
quotequote all
After checking, it was but that was Dec 2020 and 47,000 miles ago. I'll be having a proper inspection over the weekend. The heater/crossover valve is here so hopefully that will restore the heater.

I also have pattern bonnet badges which I haven't checked if they match yet.


tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Saturday 13th April
quotequote all
A mixed bag today. The easiest job was replacing the locking wheel nuts and throwing them in the bin.

A bit of dysonering in the boot to remove more bits of field but I could not remove the spare wheel on my own. I want to check the suspension compressor filter as it does not lower.

The new badges are a good match colourwise but the template is not quite correct and I couldn't find my acetone to remove the old glue.



The crucial heater valve thing fought me as I expected but it ended up an RR win as I could not separate the body and I didn't have a deep 10mm socket to remove the bracket. I bought a new ratchet spanner to try tomorrow.


tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Monday 15th April
quotequote all
One thing this has revealed is that I need a trolley toolbox and a decent reorganisation.

I could not remove the hose clamps with my tools so proper hose clip pliers on order with hose clamps to block the coolant and all due this week. With no more hold-ups I should be able to replace this valve before The Scramble.

The bonnet badge is done but I am not happy with the first 'R' so I have ordered some adhesive badge tape.

With a Spanish road trip next week, I will probably SORN this for May.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Tuesday 16th April
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Yes, of course. I look forward to it.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Thursday 18th April
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My new hose clamp pliers arrived. The top two hoses were a doddle but I cannot release the lower hoses as the clamps are 90° turned away and thus there is no room. If the fuse box wasn't there it would be a lot simpler.

I am now searching for some angled pliers which may do the job and Youtube to see if I am missing a ruse. Very annoying.

Intake hoses: There is some misting present so some new hoses required later.




tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Friday 26th April
quotequote all
Some more slow progress and profanity but I have the most difficult hose on the valve.

If the weather isn't too bad tomorrow then I think an engine start is on the cards.

I decided to replace the header tank as I couldn't read the level.


tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Sunday 5th May
quotequote all
Finally I have it all connected and an engine start today. I ran it up for a bit and there are signs of warm air from the heater but I ran out of coolant so it´s now cooling down. It never reached above a quarter on the gauge so I doubt the thermostat has opened.

I will revisit tomorrow.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Thursday 9th May
quotequote all
I decided to replace the door handle cable as it was notchy and at the end of its travel. Apart from discovering plenty of dust, I've made a massive blunder.

The cable was fine before closing the door as I tested it, now it won't open from the outside. I forgot to attach the inner handle cable so can't open from inside. Am I fked?






tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Friday 10th May
quotequote all
I've watched a couple of YouTube videos that show cutting the door striker but using a knife on the other side as a test, I don't think this is practical unless the blade is very bendy.



Flex once the door is closed fully. I'm not fussed about the weatherseal rather rubbing against the door.



Otherwise I'll have to drill through the door card and await a breaker with the same trim.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,261 posts

146 months

Friday 10th May
quotequote all
Agreed, no major rush and it's SORNed anyway. More digging required and hopefully someone may have an idea here or on FFRR forum.

I can't see any other way though. I could remove the rear door for better access. This video makes it look easy but I suspect it was pre-cut.