Time for a rebuild
Discussion
Well after bouncing off a barrier at 120mph! its going to take a little more than a T-cut to get her back on the road. so decided to go for full strip down and rebuild, although the chassis looks straight i will have it blasted and checked before powder coating. thought i'd post thread up on the progress as i go and might help others in the future also i'm probably going to need some help myself in the near future 
have removed interior which is pretty straight forward, bottom dash panel is a little tricky and my advice would be remove steering column first (getting steering wheel off boss is a real pig and requires some force or a decent puller if you have one). Next i removed the pedal box assembly which is quite straight forward, the brake/clutch line run into an ally block that goes through to the chassis, this is where i drained the fluid by undoing the pipes the other side although 1 did put up a fight so had to be cut (will be replacing with all new anyway). The boot was next, carpet is easily pulled away to expose tank and i disconnected the fuel line from the pump and drained the fuel from here using a hose clamp to control flow (typical tank was filled not long before mishap!), then i removed fuel filler and fuel return line. there are 2 straps that hold the tank in place with 2 nuts at top (10mm) and 2 underneath body (13mm) although the 2 later were removed with angle grinder, this will be my preferred weapon of choice as most nuts and bolts will be replaced with new and its quicker (not going to want to be putting old horrible looking rusty ones back on anyway). once the tank is out of way there are a couple of wires going through the body for fuel pump and speed sensor which need to be removed also what looks like a vacuum pipe that runs through to just behind the passenger door (think its a fuel return/vent pipe)
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have removed interior which is pretty straight forward, bottom dash panel is a little tricky and my advice would be remove steering column first (getting steering wheel off boss is a real pig and requires some force or a decent puller if you have one). Next i removed the pedal box assembly which is quite straight forward, the brake/clutch line run into an ally block that goes through to the chassis, this is where i drained the fluid by undoing the pipes the other side although 1 did put up a fight so had to be cut (will be replacing with all new anyway). The boot was next, carpet is easily pulled away to expose tank and i disconnected the fuel line from the pump and drained the fuel from here using a hose clamp to control flow (typical tank was filled not long before mishap!), then i removed fuel filler and fuel return line. there are 2 straps that hold the tank in place with 2 nuts at top (10mm) and 2 underneath body (13mm) although the 2 later were removed with angle grinder, this will be my preferred weapon of choice as most nuts and bolts will be replaced with new and its quicker (not going to want to be putting old horrible looking rusty ones back on anyway). once the tank is out of way there are a couple of wires going through the body for fuel pump and speed sensor which need to be removed also what looks like a vacuum pipe that runs through to just behind the passenger door (think its a fuel return/vent pipe)
[url]|http://thumbsnap.com/M3wgsYOI[/url][url]|http://thumbsnap.com/Gmvoqdw9[/url][url]|http://thumbsnap.com/sz3tY9uS[/url]nawarne said:
Small bore pipe running through to pass side B pillar is the pipe to the "roll-over valve".
This is zip tied to roll hoop upright behind pass door (remove trim panel behind door to expose). Just pull pipe off tank and leave.
Nick
cheers Nick, hopefully will never have to test it works! This is zip tied to roll hoop upright behind pass door (remove trim panel behind door to expose). Just pull pipe off tank and leave.
Nick
well things are starting to look UP! all chassis to body bolts removed (centre tunnel 2 are quite easy to find, just remove some of the insulation and you can see where they've been fibreglassed over), disconnect wiring loom from cabin into engine bay, remove main battery wires,unhook exhaust back box straps.
started to jack it up slowly at the back first, then each side on the front. once i'm happy everything is clear will call in some help to do final lift and place on to trolley.
started to jack it up slowly at the back first, then each side on the front. once i'm happy everything is clear will call in some help to do final lift and place on to trolley.
hmmmm not considered changing the engine but now you've got me thinking, i was planning on sending off the speed six to be checked over before refitting as seems silly not too. got to be more to it than just 3k for engine.....gearbox, electrics, prop etc. any one know a realistic figure and whats involved?
m4tti said:
Is it the jaguar super charged car...
now this is what i've been thinking, my previous rebuild was a 400se wedge and thought it would have been a great conversion.........it just so happens that my family run around is a 4.2 XJR (love it to bits, so smooth), its quite a small looking lump but don't think the missus would appreciate me ripping it out for project lolhas any one considered the merc lump? the 6.3 is still going to be an expensive option but an older s55 or E55 accident damaged could be a reasonable priced option.
only major problem i see is that they are both auto's
m4tti said:
The biggest challenge is getting some of the modern engines to run outside of their natural homes. You've basically got to go bespoke loom and standalone management.
That's the plus side with the LS in that there is plenty of support even from GM for different retro fit crate solutions.
The real home of the ls7... http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/u...
shame but i suppose i shouldn't have thought it was going to be just a matter of taking the whole engine and wiring out of the donor and slapping it in! still the speed six does sounds awesome when on cam so i'll probably go for the kiss option (keep it simple stupid). i think for the older cars like wedges, S2's or taimar where the original engine is not economically viable or never going to release the horse's then an engine swap might be the way to go. where as the more modern stuff was more than capable in the first place from the factory (Cerbera = 195mph, Tuscan = 185mph seems more than enough in the real world) That's the plus side with the LS in that there is plenty of support even from GM for different retro fit crate solutions.
The real home of the ls7... http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/u...
Edited by m4tti on Thursday 14th May 21:02
Well it has been a while (work, life, house move, etc) but I do have a nice new garage. Chassis has been shot blasted, checked for straightness and powder coated .......yep its blue and new front end grafted on.
[url]
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and new front end grafted on.[url]|https://thumbsnap.com/mt9rSvSu[/url][url]|https://thumbsnap.com/iY1Akkfw[/url][url]|https://thumbsnap.com/AGZkKJEX[/url][url]|https://thumbsnap.com/ePdXqmAZ[/url][url]Just looking for some advice on which suspension to choice, I'm doing full rebuild on a 2000 4.0 Tuscan, original spec bushes (not poly, as advised by most), have managed to get 10mm spacers under rack and now its time to order up some new shocks. I had a Chimaera on Nitrons once which did ride well but they are pricey compared to say Gaz but if I go Gaz, what is difference between them Gold or Mono?
I want a controlled car but road friendly not a track/race car
I want a controlled car but road friendly not a track/race car
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