Discussion
A few for now-
Flat blade aero wipers
Small windscreen water jets
Spider spoke TVR stickers
Pipercross air filter
Anderson connection upgrade water seal
Ceramic pads
Decat pipes / remap chip
Sleeved / CCC cans
LED lighting
Clear indicators
Wheel refurb / colour change
Upgrade rear screen clips
Splitter / spoiler
Superlight flywheel
Front wheel spacers
Shiny nuts
Different grille
Tinted rear screen
Upgrade badges
Carbon pedal box
Carbon seat backs
Alloy fuel cap
Alloy wiper control knob
Silicone hoses
Alloy fluids caps
Carbon inlet system
Syvecs ECU management
Upgrade steering wheel
Carbon cam cover
Stereo / speaker upgrade
Gearknob heatsink
3:9:1 diff
Semi-slick tyres
7L supercharged V8
Flat blade aero wipers
Small windscreen water jets
Spider spoke TVR stickers
Pipercross air filter
Anderson connection upgrade water seal
Ceramic pads
Decat pipes / remap chip
Sleeved / CCC cans
LED lighting
Clear indicators
Wheel refurb / colour change
Upgrade rear screen clips
Splitter / spoiler
Superlight flywheel
Front wheel spacers
Shiny nuts
Different grille
Tinted rear screen
Upgrade badges
Carbon pedal box
Carbon seat backs
Alloy fuel cap
Alloy wiper control knob
Silicone hoses
Alloy fluids caps
Carbon inlet system
Syvecs ECU management
Upgrade steering wheel
Carbon cam cover
Stereo / speaker upgrade
Gearknob heatsink
3:9:1 diff
Semi-slick tyres
7L supercharged V8
Done a few.... but my favs,
7" clutch. I have a triple plate in one and a twin in the other. Makes the gear change so much quicker, the drag and inertia with the standard plates slow the gear change. Messy though as you need to mod the HRB/carrier or mill it straight off the bell housing and fit a new HRB.
Brake bias box, took some getting right but the feel is so much better with no servo, oh and needs a fair bit of fab if you keep the standard pedal box as it isn't strong enough.
In board handbrake, again shed load of work but I like my 4 pots on the rear without a second caliper spoiling the look.
All subjective.
J
7" clutch. I have a triple plate in one and a twin in the other. Makes the gear change so much quicker, the drag and inertia with the standard plates slow the gear change. Messy though as you need to mod the HRB/carrier or mill it straight off the bell housing and fit a new HRB.
Brake bias box, took some getting right but the feel is so much better with no servo, oh and needs a fair bit of fab if you keep the standard pedal box as it isn't strong enough.
In board handbrake, again shed load of work but I like my 4 pots on the rear without a second caliper spoiling the look.
All subjective.
J
Later Mk1's and Mk2's tend to be a bit better built and have less tendency to go bang in the engine department even if they've never had a rebuild. That said, 12 years on it's also critcal to see how they've been maintained. Even a later S6 can pose problems if its not been well treated. You will never know how previous owners drove it (warm up absolutely essential on any TVR but particularly the dry sumped ones) but a thick history file with no sign of skimping is a decent sign. Be more afraid of cars that appear to have been trouble-free than ones that the prior owners paid whatever it took to sort any given problem. The later Mk 1's had revised suspension arms which were designed to be fundamentally better, but again it comes down to how its actually set up, can be well worth a Geo if it feels overly twitchy. A badly set up late car will be much worse than a well fettled early one.
Edited by Speed 3 on Friday 17th April 09:33
Speed 3 said:
Later Mk1's and Mk2's tend to be a bit better built and have less tendency to go bang in the engine department even if they've never had a rebuild. That said, 12 years on it's also critical to see how they've been maintained. Even a later S6 can pose problems if its not been well treated. You will never know how previous owners drove it (warm up absolutely essential on any TVR but particularly the dry sumped ones) but a thick history file with no sign of skimping is a decent sign. Be more afraid of cars that appear to have been trouble-free than ones that the prior owners paid whatever it took to sort any given problem. The later Mk 1's had revised suspension arms which were designed to be fundamentally better, but again it comes down to how its actually set up, can be well worth a Geo if it feels overly twitchy. A badly set up late car will be much worse than a well fettled early one.
Does anyone have an opinion on front suspension geometry alignment. My car is a 2003 Mk1 and was the best driving of the cars I tried before I took the plunge but it has hyper turn in - I thought my previous Noble was fast to turn into a corner but the Tuscan is something else. The geometry has been set up with zero toe in by my local TVR specialist but I still wonder whether it would be better with 1mm total toe in. Anyone got experience of subtle changes like this?Edited by Speed 3 on Friday 17th April 09:33
Regarding mods - for me the flip bonnet was number one followed by an uprated starter motor.
Well had a short drive in one yesterday just to get a feel, very different driving position and the pedals took some getting used to as well.
Going back next weekend when another Tuscan in my possible price range is due in. My only concern is its on the original engine and done 14k miles. Is there any sounds or things I should check out while taking it for a test drive?
This car I looked at is a specialist TVR dealer and would have 12mths warranty. My only fear would be the engine going bang...
Comments and thoughts appreciated guys.
Going back next weekend when another Tuscan in my possible price range is due in. My only concern is its on the original engine and done 14k miles. Is there any sounds or things I should check out while taking it for a test drive?
This car I looked at is a specialist TVR dealer and would have 12mths warranty. My only fear would be the engine going bang...
Comments and thoughts appreciated guys.
Depends on the build year. If its an early car on that mileage you can almost guarantee a rebuild being required. I suspect a standard 12 month warranty possibly wouldn't cover that extent of cost - check the small print. Don't bust your budget on the base price if there's any significant risk of that needing to be done. Your buying options are buy already done, later car (somewhat higher risk, but plenty of Tam/T350/Sag have no problems so Tuscan from same build era have a bit of a misplaced rep) or cheap as chips and get the work done yourself. There can be quite a huge variation on asking price and it often doesn't seem to correlate with the money spent or going to need spending.
In terms of noises, hard one to call. An S6 SHOULD sound like a bag of spanners on start up from cold, quiet is a bad sign. Once warm it's the opposite. You can't really tell for sure without stripping it down. Even the usual indicators like oil pressure can be misleading and variable. It's also very close to failure before you see smoke. Tappet shim history may be a guide but its very rarely recorded in detail on the 12k service invoices. A good TVR technician can have a spidey sense of how it sounds and pulls but none will hang their hat on a solid opinion.
In terms of noises, hard one to call. An S6 SHOULD sound like a bag of spanners on start up from cold, quiet is a bad sign. Once warm it's the opposite. You can't really tell for sure without stripping it down. Even the usual indicators like oil pressure can be misleading and variable. It's also very close to failure before you see smoke. Tappet shim history may be a guide but its very rarely recorded in detail on the 12k service invoices. A good TVR technician can have a spidey sense of how it sounds and pulls but none will hang their hat on a solid opinion.
Speed 3 said:
Better, but still looks too busy with the water pipe and nozzles on display. I've done away with all that and fitted small concealed double jets directly into the scuttle panel. Very clean looks plus cheap and easy to do.Gassing Station | Tuscan | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff