Discussion
The starter motor has been making strange noise's over the past 2 weeks,on Sunday it almost left us stranded
at a pub car park.
Luckily for me a really nice chap who used to own a TVR got his mate's out & they bumped started us, the extended TVR band of brother's past & present is alive & kicking, thank god!
It is just making a "whirring" noise now no attempt at starting ,so I whipped it out & the small green/blue wire that goes to the solenoid is hanging on by 4 threads, could this possibly be the cause ?
I ask because I just phoned up a few local auto electrical places & the sucking of teeth when TVR was mentioned put me off.
Interestingly I looked through the service records & realised the bugger feeds on them, it had a new one in 2002, 2007 & Oct 2010! My old diesel is on the original after 137,000+ miles?
Its only done 1300 miles since it was fitted !
at a pub car park.
Luckily for me a really nice chap who used to own a TVR got his mate's out & they bumped started us, the extended TVR band of brother's past & present is alive & kicking, thank god!
It is just making a "whirring" noise now no attempt at starting ,so I whipped it out & the small green/blue wire that goes to the solenoid is hanging on by 4 threads, could this possibly be the cause ?
I ask because I just phoned up a few local auto electrical places & the sucking of teeth when TVR was mentioned put me off.
Interestingly I looked through the service records & realised the bugger feeds on them, it had a new one in 2002, 2007 & Oct 2010! My old diesel is on the original after 137,000+ miles?
Its only done 1300 miles since it was fitted !
Well Mart you got a good deal there! Where was that for future ref?
I have managed to strip the small lead & resolder it,I put a good pair of jump leads on it & have bench tested it & all is working really well?
Very fast motor speed & the solenoid makes the cog engage with a snap! So I guess I should have tested the bloody earth points first!! Well at least I found that one end of the airbox trumpets were cracked so I will rebond that
Hey thanks for the helpful posts chaps!!;)
I have managed to strip the small lead & resolder it,I put a good pair of jump leads on it & have bench tested it & all is working really well?
Very fast motor speed & the solenoid makes the cog engage with a snap! So I guess I should have tested the bloody earth points first!! Well at least I found that one end of the airbox trumpets were cracked so I will rebond that
Hey thanks for the helpful posts chaps!!;)
Make sure you bench test it first & check the small lead to the solenoid, then the earths!
£100 does sound cheap, I shopped around & one place quoted £176 the other £106 ? I think you have to make sure if its the maxima one that it has the correct amount of teeth & the cover is flat & not domed as it will not be any use.
£100 does sound cheap, I shopped around & one place quoted £176 the other £106 ? I think you have to make sure if its the maxima one that it has the correct amount of teeth & the cover is flat & not domed as it will not be any use.
The starter has power going to it as it whirrs, the problem seems to be the solenoid is not getting the power.
I have checked the Solenoid relay & it is clicking when the black button is pressed to start,I swapped the relay onto another circuit & the same whirring from the other relay so its getting power there. I cannot seem to get any power from the fuse slot, with the fuse out or with it part way in & the tester probe on the fuse terminal leg...nothing at all? I would have thought the power would go through the fuse then to the relay , does anyone know the layout?
As the relay is clicking & the starter motor is whirring I suppose the black starter switch is functioning OK?
There is a black ignition box on the rear shelf of the tank the top two left & right terminals have power?
What a puzzle?
This problem did not just happen overnight ,I noticed odd noise's from the starter over a wee+ period.
Even though the battery performed well I am going to hook up another battery via some jump leads just to check again as I am running out of idea's.
I have checked the Solenoid relay & it is clicking when the black button is pressed to start,I swapped the relay onto another circuit & the same whirring from the other relay so its getting power there. I cannot seem to get any power from the fuse slot, with the fuse out or with it part way in & the tester probe on the fuse terminal leg...nothing at all? I would have thought the power would go through the fuse then to the relay , does anyone know the layout?
As the relay is clicking & the starter motor is whirring I suppose the black starter switch is functioning OK?
There is a black ignition box on the rear shelf of the tank the top two left & right terminals have power?
What a puzzle?
This problem did not just happen overnight ,I noticed odd noise's from the starter over a wee+ period.
Even though the battery performed well I am going to hook up another battery via some jump leads just to check again as I am running out of idea's.
tangero thanks for your help, I wrote on the 6th June that I had taken the starter off & bench tested the motor & all worked very well, the solenoid threw the gearing forward with a firm snap.
It appears not to be a solenoid problem but that here is no 12v supply reaching the solenoid, so it cannot function.
As the relay in the boot for the solenoid is clicking & buzziing when the starter button is pressed then the immobilser is not at fault plus I have now bypassed it for this test.
When I found it had a 25amp fuse that had blown I thought great, but now I will have to find out "Why" its blown
Thats why its so puzzling to me, also the "Seach"being down atm is not helping. as I said tangero I do appreciate your & evryone's input as it does make me think in the right way;)
Just realised what a silly thing I wrote earlier regarding the Fuse to relay issue, all I have to do is take the fuse out ,if the relay does not work then the power is getting to the fuse first ...Doh ,I'd better have a strong coffee to think again.
It appears not to be a solenoid problem but that here is no 12v supply reaching the solenoid, so it cannot function.
As the relay in the boot for the solenoid is clicking & buzziing when the starter button is pressed then the immobilser is not at fault plus I have now bypassed it for this test.
When I found it had a 25amp fuse that had blown I thought great, but now I will have to find out "Why" its blown
Thats why its so puzzling to me, also the "Seach"being down atm is not helping. as I said tangero I do appreciate your & evryone's input as it does make me think in the right way;)
Just realised what a silly thing I wrote earlier regarding the Fuse to relay issue, all I have to do is take the fuse out ,if the relay does not work then the power is getting to the fuse first ...Doh ,I'd better have a strong coffee to think again.
Right today I have put a direct live feed to the solenoid switch & a direct earth from battery neg terminal to the starter motor body, I have also tried tapping it with a extension bar & all i get is
Well as TVRgit rightly pointed it my descriptive powers are not great so here is a video clip of whats happening!
Well as TVRgit rightly pointed it my descriptive powers are not great so here is a video clip of whats happening!
Thanks yet again Tvrgit , think you are bang on the money as I found this thread from Ridds
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
& sounds the same as you have pointed out.
I shall whip the bugger out & take it to a local starter/alternator workshop.
I used a jump lead to the starter boby ,then a jump lead to the chassis earth point by the N/side passenger suspension chassis, you can see the red lead over the battery going to the starter in the pic.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
& sounds the same as you have pointed out.
I shall whip the bugger out & take it to a local starter/alternator workshop.
I used a jump lead to the starter boby ,then a jump lead to the chassis earth point by the N/side passenger suspension chassis, you can see the red lead over the battery going to the starter in the pic.
mart 63 said:
Its a proper one,the tvr garage couldnt believe how cheap it was.It fitted spot on and the same as the one that came off.If you think its too cheap i could get one and sell it to you for £200 if it would make you feel better.
Clwyd Auto Electrical 01978 762093 part number S114-461 ask for Andy
mart just phoned Andy & he can get the one you said @£130 del which is fine but its a 1.4kw,its quite a lot less than the original spec,its great price but I'm wondering how long would that last ? Clwyd Auto Electrical 01978 762093 part number S114-461 ask for Andy
Well we have lift off!!
I did another bench test & that made me even more confused as yet again all worked fine, I put it into another engine bay by just resting onto the other car's engine block was good enough to make the earth contact, flicked the live lead aginst the terminals & evrything worked
I thought sod this for a game & went to a good electrical workshop.
He did some tests & the motor & solenoid were spot on, the shaft that
the clutch holds was fine & it only turned one way as its meant to , it spiralled up the shaft as its supposed to...BUT it was NOT extending out far enough so no contact with the flywheel!!
Just a normal bench test shows all is fine.
So I have bought a recon starter & still have my old one, I will get that refurbed at a later date.Thanks for all the help here!
Krustious I found it quite straight forward, ist thing disconnect the battery + lead & place a thick towel or sack over the battery.
Tuck the + battery lead away.
Take off the front panel just under the windscreen 2 allen bolts & slide back from the screen & up out of the way.
Take off the long rubber hose's & air filter housing
Take off the air box nearest the battery, remove the small rubber hose at the back.
Take off the silicone pipe nearest the screen completely off so you can see the throttle pot, plug all the silicone pipes with clean rags & especially the exposed throttle body, in case you drop anything !!
Try & push all the pipes/cables up to the screen & make a gap between the screen base & the rocker cover end, as this is where you have wriggle the starter through.
You should now see the starter, mine had two 10mm allen bolts holding it, I used 2 3/4" drive ext bars 10" & a 8" with a 10mm allen key head socket.
When these are finger tight reach down & take them out making sure to collect the washer's.
It will fall of & slide away, before anything else stuff a old tea towel into the gap where the flywheel is now showing ,if you drop anything in there you had it!
Now manoeuvre the motor so the rear is facing you, lodge a piece of wood against it to stop it rolling about & you will see the 2 large red wire's fixed by a 12mm nut,take this off & tuck the red leads away,then on the solenoid there is a small black lead attached by a spade clip take this off.
Now the fun, pull the motor up to the gap & move the wood block underneath it & wedge it there so it props the motor,or you can get an old wire coat hanger & push it through the bolt holes so you can pull it through the gap, it will come out but make sure you do not drop it.
When you have fixed or renewed it its the reverse.
Hope I have not missed anything?
Save your self some time & take it to a proper electrical workshop that has the proper machines to test it properly, I wish I had.
HTH
I did another bench test & that made me even more confused as yet again all worked fine, I put it into another engine bay by just resting onto the other car's engine block was good enough to make the earth contact, flicked the live lead aginst the terminals & evrything worked
I thought sod this for a game & went to a good electrical workshop.
He did some tests & the motor & solenoid were spot on, the shaft that
the clutch holds was fine & it only turned one way as its meant to , it spiralled up the shaft as its supposed to...BUT it was NOT extending out far enough so no contact with the flywheel!!
Just a normal bench test shows all is fine.
So I have bought a recon starter & still have my old one, I will get that refurbed at a later date.Thanks for all the help here!
Krustious I found it quite straight forward, ist thing disconnect the battery + lead & place a thick towel or sack over the battery.
Tuck the + battery lead away.
Take off the front panel just under the windscreen 2 allen bolts & slide back from the screen & up out of the way.
Take off the long rubber hose's & air filter housing
Take off the air box nearest the battery, remove the small rubber hose at the back.
Take off the silicone pipe nearest the screen completely off so you can see the throttle pot, plug all the silicone pipes with clean rags & especially the exposed throttle body, in case you drop anything !!
Try & push all the pipes/cables up to the screen & make a gap between the screen base & the rocker cover end, as this is where you have wriggle the starter through.
You should now see the starter, mine had two 10mm allen bolts holding it, I used 2 3/4" drive ext bars 10" & a 8" with a 10mm allen key head socket.
When these are finger tight reach down & take them out making sure to collect the washer's.
It will fall of & slide away, before anything else stuff a old tea towel into the gap where the flywheel is now showing ,if you drop anything in there you had it!
Now manoeuvre the motor so the rear is facing you, lodge a piece of wood against it to stop it rolling about & you will see the 2 large red wire's fixed by a 12mm nut,take this off & tuck the red leads away,then on the solenoid there is a small black lead attached by a spade clip take this off.
Now the fun, pull the motor up to the gap & move the wood block underneath it & wedge it there so it props the motor,or you can get an old wire coat hanger & push it through the bolt holes so you can pull it through the gap, it will come out but make sure you do not drop it.
When you have fixed or renewed it its the reverse.
Hope I have not missed anything?
Save your self some time & take it to a proper electrical workshop that has the proper machines to test it properly, I wish I had.
HTH
I have since covered mine in this http://www.agriemach.com/c74/aluminised-heat-barri...
I also replaced the earth leads with 35mm welding cable.
I also replaced the earth leads with 35mm welding cable.
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