Adaptives thread... again
Discussion
Hi everyone, I recieved my refurb Intakes from TVR power and I'm now trying to set the engine.
I have an airflowmeter, my car is modded with the short induction from Joolz and with the chip.
First I removed the throttle linkage bar and I set the T.Pots at 15.2 each, then I put back the throttle linkage and played with it (for about 10min) to have same t.pots reading and no play.
I set the idle screw in order to have 19% reading in both banks.
Then I started the engine and let it warm. When the engine reach à good 60degres I checked the adaptives and find that they are at the Rich limit (25/28) both bank equal.
I checked with the afm and both banks at about 7 ( except one cylinder, the one with the mastervac hose, at 5 don't know why). What should I do to have them at zero ?
I tried puting the T.pots at 18, and same thing happened, I tried reseting the adaptives maps and that make no difference.
I'm lost, any help would be welcome.
Idle is at about 1000-1100 which is high from my opinion.
Update: I tried with the old unmodded chip on the ECU, the car was totally different, shaking like an old chevy...
Will try tomorrow with another ECU that I have in spare.
I have an airflowmeter, my car is modded with the short induction from Joolz and with the chip.
First I removed the throttle linkage bar and I set the T.Pots at 15.2 each, then I put back the throttle linkage and played with it (for about 10min) to have same t.pots reading and no play.
I set the idle screw in order to have 19% reading in both banks.
Then I started the engine and let it warm. When the engine reach à good 60degres I checked the adaptives and find that they are at the Rich limit (25/28) both bank equal.
I checked with the afm and both banks at about 7 ( except one cylinder, the one with the mastervac hose, at 5 don't know why). What should I do to have them at zero ?
I tried puting the T.pots at 18, and same thing happened, I tried reseting the adaptives maps and that make no difference.
I'm lost, any help would be welcome.
Idle is at about 1000-1100 which is high from my opinion.
Update: I tried with the old unmodded chip on the ECU, the car was totally different, shaking like an old chevy...
Will try tomorrow with another ECU that I have in spare.
Edited by Snake278 on Tuesday 15th April 20:25
That is the problem I think, no matter what I try the rpm fix itself at 1100, even 1300 with the unmodded ecu chip (I only suceed to acheive a 900rpm once and the car stall about 5sec later)
I don't see another way too lower tickrate other than lowering the T.Pots value, which don't change my adaptatives value.
I will see tomorrow, I really hope my other ECU will fix it but I don't know the risk of running the car with the original chip and short induction.
What exactly do the cooling mod chip ?
I don't see another way too lower tickrate other than lowering the T.Pots value, which don't change my adaptatives value.
I will see tomorrow, I really hope my other ECU will fix it but I don't know the risk of running the car with the original chip and short induction.
What exactly do the cooling mod chip ?
Great!
thanks for all these answers, I will try that tomorrow (in a place without neighbours this time)!
After a few hours of try today I'm at the exact same point that yesterday.
I suceed in getting a very good 900rpm and 0/5% adaptives for a few minutes and AFM showing 5~6 on every cylinders, then the engine goes to 1100 and stayed there with adaptives at 20/20 and AFM at 7~7.5.
I strongly suspect my manifolds to be cracked (at least one of them), I guess this can alter my adaptives, but can it mess things with throttle ?
I already tried to start the engine with both butterflies fully closed and link rod off but the engine stall after 5sec.
thanks for all these answers, I will try that tomorrow (in a place without neighbours this time)!After a few hours of try today I'm at the exact same point that yesterday.
I suceed in getting a very good 900rpm and 0/5% adaptives for a few minutes and AFM showing 5~6 on every cylinders, then the engine goes to 1100 and stayed there with adaptives at 20/20 and AFM at 7~7.5.
I strongly suspect my manifolds to be cracked (at least one of them), I guess this can alter my adaptives, but can it mess things with throttle ?
I already tried to start the engine with both butterflies fully closed and link rod off but the engine stall after 5sec.
Well after three days of setting, I give up, I found a setting that is good for driving and stayed that way even with at hot engine, 1100rpm and adaptives totally wrong at idle.
Today I discovered that a silent Cerbera exhaust can still give you a headach if you listen to it more than 2 hours! But more importantly I found that setting up an AJP Engine is clearly much more complicated than what I expected, every millimeter in the link rod can make the car going from 1100rpm to stall, every % of difference in the T.pots make a missfire.
Maybe with a really healthy engine its easy, but on one with 80K miles it start to be complicated.
A shame I have to cross a sea to find an AJP specialist.
Thank you all for your help.
Today I discovered that a silent Cerbera exhaust can still give you a headach if you listen to it more than 2 hours! But more importantly I found that setting up an AJP Engine is clearly much more complicated than what I expected, every millimeter in the link rod can make the car going from 1100rpm to stall, every % of difference in the T.pots make a missfire.
Maybe with a really healthy engine its easy, but on one with 80K miles it start to be complicated.
A shame I have to cross a sea to find an AJP specialist.
Thank you all for your help.
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