Tilton Slave, Zircotech Headers and Injector cleaning
Discussion
Just made a start on a few jobs I need to get done before an upcoming Easter Road Trip with my dad..
The exact rout isn't planned just yet, the general route is:
-o- London, Calais, Oudenaarde for the Tour of Flanders
-o- Oudenaarde to Damgan for a few days
-o- Damgan, St. Malo, Southampton, London.
However, I need to get the following "niggles" seen to first:
-o- Tilton Slave
-o- Zircotech Headers
-o- Injector cleaning
Since the RP Slave failed, I had to manoeuvre the car into place on dollies..
I stripped the panels and airboxes off yesterday to gain access the the headers and will remove the gearbox today.
Happy New Year to all!
Aide
The exact rout isn't planned just yet, the general route is:
-o- London, Calais, Oudenaarde for the Tour of Flanders
-o- Oudenaarde to Damgan for a few days
-o- Damgan, St. Malo, Southampton, London.
However, I need to get the following "niggles" seen to first:
-o- Tilton Slave
-o- Zircotech Headers
-o- Injector cleaning
Since the RP Slave failed, I had to manoeuvre the car into place on dollies..
I stripped the panels and airboxes off yesterday to gain access the the headers and will remove the gearbox today.
Happy New Year to all!
Aide
Can someone let me know:
-o- if I need to remove the water rail to get the headers off?
-o- and when putting the headers back on, how do I torque the lower rear bolts?
I have crows feet sockets but can't fathom how to go about tightening the header bolts correctly once I get to reassembling everything!
-o- if I need to remove the water rail to get the headers off?
-o- and when putting the headers back on, how do I torque the lower rear bolts?
I have crows feet sockets but can't fathom how to go about tightening the header bolts correctly once I get to reassembling everything!
Cheers Ian, Cheers Dan, any insight is appreciated.
Nils, I think the quote I got from Zircotech is in my work email, will let you know on Monday.
I'll probably get the water rails and decats done as well.
Might get the rocker heads done too, but am a little reluctant to take them off tbh..
Nils, I think the quote I got from Zircotech is in my work email, will let you know on Monday.
I'll probably get the water rails and decats done as well.
Might get the rocker heads done too, but am a little reluctant to take them off tbh..
Thanks Dan,
Will dump the coolant, strip off the water rail and see if I can get the manifolds off with the gearbox in situ.
It'll be easier to get the modded bellhousing back on without the headers in the way, so the headers need to come off first..
Should have it all stripped down today... (If I stop arseing around with a camera!)
Aide
Will dump the coolant, strip off the water rail and see if I can get the manifolds off with the gearbox in situ.
It'll be easier to get the modded bellhousing back on without the headers in the way, so the headers need to come off first..
Should have it all stripped down today... (If I stop arseing around with a camera!)
Aide
Gray_101 said:
I spent most of last night looking at Cerbwill s post and recreated the job in my head as I've not got a Cerb in bits to look at at the moment, and it looks a good solution to the slave cylinder problems
But how does the Tilton mounting coller secure to the input bearing case on the gear box ? ... I would have thought a better solution would be to mount the tilton in the bell housing and not on the front of the gear box
I believe this collar and slave are designed for the T5.But how does the Tilton mounting coller secure to the input bearing case on the gear box ? ... I would have thought a better solution would be to mount the tilton in the bell housing and not on the front of the gear box
Edited by Gray_101 on Saturday 2nd January 10:35
The slave is secured to the spigot housing on the gearbox.
Will mentioned that he had to tap a hole for the retaining bolt.
This 3min YouTube video from Tilton is pretty good.
harry henderson said:
For a minute there I thought my car was in your garage.
That's beautiful, Ocean Haze? Pretty Rare!If you contact the ex TVR guy Nemasis on here he can tell you all about your car, he has all the records of every Cerbera that left the factory. Although he hasn't posted in a good while.
Spiders make an unbelievable difference to the car.
GT6k said:
Here are my notes from doing my manifolds
Removing the exhaust manifolds
1) Remove rear chassis plate and disconnect the manifold to cat joints
2) Remove engine undertray
3) Drain coolant
4) Remove air boxes, throttle cable mounting, passenger side bonnet catch, header tank and header tank bracket.
5) Disconnect lambdas, noting which cable goes to which side.
6) Passenger side manifold – remove battery (having first opened doors and boot lid)
7) Remove bolt securing passenger side engine mount to chassis then tilt engine towards drivers side. The manifold can then be extracted upwards through the engine compartment.
8) Refit battery if you don’t want to leave the car powered down, my alarm objects to prolonged disconnection.
Additional items necessary for drivers side and some of these make the passenger side easier
9) Drain oil and remove filter (as this provides clearance later)
10)Remove clutch master cylinder cover (as above)
11)Remove coolant rails, securing water temp line out of the way to avoid damage
12)Jack engine and then remove passenger side engine mounting and plate
13)Remove bolt securing drivers side engine mounting to chassis. Slide engine to passenger side. Note that lifting the engine on this side will cause the engine mounting plate to bear on the steering column. Lift, slide and rotate engine as needed to allow manifold to be extracted upwards through engine compartment.
Jhonno - I take my hat off to you, I found it only just possible even with the water rails removed. I have come to the opinion that a lot of jobs are probably designed to be done engine out. If it weren't for the additional hassle of the air con refilling I think it would be the easier option.
Thanks for that Ian, it's greatly appreciated.Removing the exhaust manifolds
1) Remove rear chassis plate and disconnect the manifold to cat joints
2) Remove engine undertray
3) Drain coolant
4) Remove air boxes, throttle cable mounting, passenger side bonnet catch, header tank and header tank bracket.
5) Disconnect lambdas, noting which cable goes to which side.
6) Passenger side manifold – remove battery (having first opened doors and boot lid)
7) Remove bolt securing passenger side engine mount to chassis then tilt engine towards drivers side. The manifold can then be extracted upwards through the engine compartment.
8) Refit battery if you don’t want to leave the car powered down, my alarm objects to prolonged disconnection.
Additional items necessary for drivers side and some of these make the passenger side easier
9) Drain oil and remove filter (as this provides clearance later)
10)Remove clutch master cylinder cover (as above)
11)Remove coolant rails, securing water temp line out of the way to avoid damage
12)Jack engine and then remove passenger side engine mounting and plate
13)Remove bolt securing drivers side engine mounting to chassis. Slide engine to passenger side. Note that lifting the engine on this side will cause the engine mounting plate to bear on the steering column. Lift, slide and rotate engine as needed to allow manifold to be extracted upwards through engine compartment.
Jhonno - I take my hat off to you, I found it only just possible even with the water rails removed. I have come to the opinion that a lot of jobs are probably designed to be done engine out. If it weren't for the additional hassle of the air con refilling I think it would be the easier option.
In the end I just drained the coolant, took the water rails off, unbolted the headers, took off the gearbox and starter, then jacked the engine up a bit and the headers came out from the bottom past the bellhousing. However, I did spent a good while, after I'd got the headers dangling loose, cursing every nut and bolt on the car
harry henderson said:
Cheers for that. It's not perfect when you get close up so it's booked for for a shiny new coat of paint in March along with a freshly refurbed set of RL7s. I just wish I had the skills and know how that the rest of you guys have, I'm impressed with myself when I fit a couple of rear silencers never mind the stuff you lot seem to do, very impressed.
Have you decided on a colour?
Jhonno said:
I keep looking at my engine and how much I could do if I removed it..
It's a slippery slope Dan I want to fix a leak and completely clean the engine - will get the timing chain, cam covers, water rails and maybe throttle bodies powder coated. But am considering an engine refresh..
Just ordered an Engine Crane
I already have an Engine Stand
Will start to prep the engine for removal over the next few evenings...
(Jeez, I'd earmarked January do to the Probationary Training sessions at the NRA in Bisley!)
I already have an Engine Stand
Will start to prep the engine for removal over the next few evenings...
(Jeez, I'd earmarked January do to the Probationary Training sessions at the NRA in Bisley!)
I need to order a few straps to use wth the the engine crane.
Looking at stuff on MachinMart
Can someone let me know if I only need a couple of straps?
Many thanks
Aide
Looking at stuff on MachinMart
Can someone let me know if I only need a couple of straps?
Many thanks
Aide
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